Basil

I wonder if anyone could please give me the part numbers for the larger washer bottle (5.5l ?- std. with Xenons) and the headlight washer pump for the Fabia vRS '05?

I have a cunning plan.

To beat the heat, but I need to be able to give the local dealer the part no.s to be able to order them easily.

Awaiting a package from Oz, in the meantime....

Thanks for any help,

Cheers
Bas

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Fab vRS - Black Magic - PD160 intake - Forge FMIC - colour coded front grille -SLC Splitter - K&N Airfilter -SEAT Strutbrace - Jabba ARB - IC Waterspray (need to wire it in!) - 312mm TT brakes - Eibach Springs - Skoda Reversing sensors - Devonutopia Tuning (tm) Custom Exhaust (2 1/4" straight pipe) - Short shifter mod- 5 brake light mod - Helix Steel SMF + Organic Clutch + pressure plate - Peloquin LSD - TD stage 2 Hybrid - Washbrook remapped ECU - Uprated injectors - Cupra bushes -Poly-filled dogbone - Allard racepipe - Pirelli Dragons - Forge Rear Strutbrace - DIY SS upper boostpipe delete -Koni FSD's - elephant pipe CCV mod

ScoobyChris

Believe there is a comprehensive how-to somewhere on Brisky for intercooler water sprays!

Chris

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TaviaRS

BAsil, sorry for not answering your questions by PM.

Yes is the answer and very nicely too

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Basil

Thanks M8!

I asked TaviaRS if the aussie intelligent spray controller he has works on the Fabia vRS - so the answer is yes, great.

The thing is that I have an easy free supply of 99% medical alcohol. The cooling properties of a 50:50 water mix are amazing.
I'd bet that a proper intelligent system IC spray on the standard SMIC (with pikey mods 1, 2) would beat the pants off a FMIC (dons asbestos suit and drops to the floor).
Latent Heat of Evaporation is a pretty large factor - better than just increased IC volume/surface area in a hot climate. I wonder if any physicists out there would know how to compare matters mathematically?

If you place a great big FMIC in front of a radiator in 45 deg heat (out here in Bahrain) you would seriously drop the radiator efficiency. I'm pleased that the Furby has not once crept over the mid-way engine temp mark even in city traffic at 47 degrees C indicated.

With just the pikey mods, I notice that engine is coping, but with an evaporative mist cooling system, I'd bet it would benefit significantly. Much cheaper option over a FMIC as well.
We'll see. Going with Nitrous or CO2 cooling would be expensive and over the top, and the sudden severe drops in temp with the spray would eventually crack the aluminium IC most likely.

This is getting interesting.....

Oh, anyone have the two part numbers, perchance?

Cheers,
Bas

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Fab vRS - Black Magic - PD160 intake - Forge FMIC - colour coded front grille -SLC Splitter - K&N Airfilter -SEAT Strutbrace - Jabba ARB - IC Waterspray (need to wire it in!) - 312mm TT brakes - Eibach Springs - Skoda Reversing sensors - Devonutopia Tuning (tm) Custom Exhaust (2 1/4" straight pipe) - Short shifter mod- 5 brake light mod - Helix Steel SMF + Organic Clutch + pressure plate - Peloquin LSD - TD stage 2 Hybrid - Washbrook remapped ECU - Uprated injectors - Cupra bushes -Poly-filled dogbone - Allard racepipe - Pirelli Dragons - Forge Rear Strutbrace - DIY SS upper boostpipe delete -Koni FSD's - elephant pipe CCV mod

bryand

OK so the liquid will get shaken up, but won't the alcohol float on top of the water most of the time?


I hope you got the brass nozzle that goes with the Autospeed kit: it gives a much finer spray pattern than the plastic irrigation nozzles I started off with, though I had to remove the non-return valve to get it to flow fast enough using a windscreen washer pump.

In UK summer temperatures I demonstrated that the Autospeed spray will drop the intake air temperature, but not by enough to be worth the hassle (from 90°C to 72°C - still too hot). In Bahraini conditions, I would be interested in any measurememts you make of you intake air temps with and without the spray.

Bigw2069

No need to re-invent the wheel

http://www.nemesisperformance.net/

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Lummox

CO2 Cryo kits are even easy to get filled etc.

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Basil

But think of what must happen to Aluminium with repeated temperature drops to
-78 degrees C!
Plus it's for daily street use....

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Fab vRS - Black Magic - PD160 intake - Forge FMIC - colour coded front grille -SLC Splitter - K&N Airfilter -SEAT Strutbrace - Jabba ARB - IC Waterspray (need to wire it in!) - 312mm TT brakes - Eibach Springs - Skoda Reversing sensors - Devonutopia Tuning (tm) Custom Exhaust (2 1/4" straight pipe) - Short shifter mod- 5 brake light mod - Helix Steel SMF + Organic Clutch + pressure plate - Peloquin LSD - TD stage 2 Hybrid - Washbrook remapped ECU - Uprated injectors - Cupra bushes -Poly-filled dogbone - Allard racepipe - Pirelli Dragons - Forge Rear Strutbrace - DIY SS upper boostpipe delete -Koni FSD's - elephant pipe CCV mod

cheezemonkhai

How about this and it may seem silly but hey. .

You have air con on the car, so you have a cold side of the compressor. Why not have a pro run an extra pipe from the cold side of the aircon and have some sort arrangement to cool the air going into the SMIC or even to actually cool the SMIC after the car has done it's cabin cooling duties.


Failing that just hand a bucked of dry ice under the SMIC and it should keep the thing cool for a while

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