Skoda Felicia damper failure

[harryhill]

If i am correct from memory the bolt you are talking about is visible with the strut brace removed and the plastic cap. To be honest i would loosely reattach everything just so you can get the leverage needed on this bolt.

As you have this off the car at present i can imagine that it is difficult to get leverage. The only issue i can think is whether the strut will turn on leverage

[skoda_dragon]

even with the strut attached it will still turn as it is the piston that is turning. i have tried holding the piston with some adjustable pliers and a spanner but it is just rounding the corners off

[harryhill]

I take it the struts you have removed are knackered?

If this is the case then just order a new spacer from JHM Butts and destroy the strut to get the spring off with a suitable power tool like an angle grinder.

You can get all the bushes etc from Butts if needs be for pence.

[harryhill]

Oh i forgot to mention, you say that you are rounding the corners off. Try using a socket the exact shape of the nut as this will grip the middle instead of the edge.

Halfrauds do a full 1/2 inch impact metric set for 16 quid, or you can buy them individually from any good motor factor. Just replace with a new locking nut

[skoda_dragon]

thanks for the replies, i took them to a garage for them to get done as i was get really frustrated with them and didnt want to do too much damage as you have to use the spacers and nuts again on the new dampers. They made it look so easy to remove the nuts. A quick spin with the air ratchet sorted those bad boys out. I think I may invest in one next time I have a difficult job to do, they are amazing pieces of kit.

[pinkskud]

my impact driver is deffo my no1 tool

[anewman]

I wonder if these are any good for £20 if any left anywhere? Wolf Impact Wrench ½" - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

Average Air consumption 7cfm. Air pressure 90-100psi. Torque 230 ft/lbs. Speed 7000rpm. Requires 2hp/50Ltr Compressor.

Hmmm requires a compressor....

[skoda_dragon]

Originally Posted by anewman

I wonder if these are any good for £20 if any left anywhere? Wolf Impact Wrench ½" - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys


Hmmm requires a compressor....

That's a good price for an impact wrench, only downside is the compressors are £150 which I don't have at the minute otherwise it would be on order today

[harryhill]

glad you managed to get everything off ok.

[Psyzygy]

I had a front strut collapse on me less than a month after I bought my Felicia - and that was newly MOT'd! So they're not easy to pick up it would appear. Keep an eye on them.

[anewman]

Just wondering. First post says to replace the damper.

From what I can tell on the rears, the lower cup is available as a separate part, but on the front is an integral part of the damper.

[Psyzygy]

Yeah, the bottom cup on the front strut is integral with the damper - until it rusts through

[skoda_dragon]

Originally Posted by anewman

From what I can tell on the rears, the lower cup is available as a separate part, but on the front is an integral part of the damper.

When I bought by rear dampers the lower cup was welded the same as it is for the front shocks. As far as i'm aware it cannot be bought on its own. I did however have to buy a new upper cup as this was also very rusty. I have replaced both front and back now so I shouldn't have to worry about it for a while now.

When i got it MOT'ed they picked up on it both times. On one account they advised me on the fronts and then later that day they had failed, so its worth getting them changed as soon as you notice excess rust.

[Andrew J]

This happened to me yesterday. I've ordered new struts - £92 inc from Skoda but can't get the lower clamp nut off. I notice that this is a common prob but couldn't find the best diy solution. Can anyone help please? Does the bolt thread into the clamp itself as well as being held by the end nut? Many thanks, Andrew J

[harryhill]

Originally Posted by Andrew J

This happened to me yesterday. I've ordered new struts - £92 inc from Skoda but can't get the lower clamp nut off. I notice that this is a common prob but couldn't find the best diy solution. Can anyone help please? Does the bolt thread into the clamp itself as well as being held by the end nut? Many thanks, Andrew J

No the bolt clamps on the bolt only as far as i am aware but is likely to be a tight fit on it's own. To get the bolt off are you using a standard socket? By this i mean one that grips the edges of the nut. Ditch it and get a socket that is cut the same shape as the bolt you are try to take off as this will grip the middle of the nut and prevent rounding off. I have tried to find a socket on google images that shows the type i mean. Hang on..............here goes a bit battered but show the point


http://mikoma.com/alloy_artifacts/Ph...pped_inset.jpg


You will now be free to put as much effort into the wrench as possible. If you are still having problems try soaking in penetrating oil (WD40 or similar) overnight and if it still wont shift get some heat on it or if you have access to air impact wrench then use this.

As a last resort get the angle grinder out and cut it off and replace nut and bolt.

[Richard Black]

I have never failed to get a lower clamp bolt out in the end but it can put up a helluva fight. First thing you need is a 16mm SINGLE HEXAGON socket (it's not an imperial bolt, it's a regular M10 but with a reduced size head to clear the clamp) - an impact socket will do. Put a breaker bar on it, crack the rust seal and then slowly and painfully w*nk the bolt a little clockwise, antt-clock.... until it can be moved with a regular ratchet. Now you can turn it whole rotations until it's free enough to be gently tapped out with a big hammer.

You can usually loosen the top bolt with an offset ring spanner and whatever fits the top of the damper piston (8mm hex wrench or something, can't remember).

Good quality monotube gas dampers are WELL worth the expense, by the way. Anyone got a good source for Monroe Reflex?

[Andrew J]

Many thanks for your help chaps. Have managed to shift both lower clamp nuts - Loads of wd 40 left overnight and a good clout using a flat sided hex socket wrench shifted them.
Cheers Andrew J

[Richard Black]

Loads of wd 40 left overnight

Meant to mention in my earlier post in this thread: in my experience WD40 is not that great at freeing rusted fasteners but Plus Gas is the gnat's nuts. Quick squirt, wait a few minutes (I usually give a squirt before I even jack the car up, which gives enough time), and it always seems to work wonders.

[Captain Sisko]

I think mine are on the verge of "failing"
the lower part of the thing what's holding the spring seems to be corroding.

I'll have to get that done soon.

[Mr Butter]

HI -

Got myself a spair of complete suspension units from the scrappy (Spanish so NO RUST!) for 35 euros. I took a chance as they are from a petrol model - they appear identical - can I just fit them as is to my diesel? Is that a big NO NO of will I have to change the springs to cope with the extra weight of the engine??

I looked around and found a set of monroe reflex struts but they were 140 euros, (which quoted the same part number for all models) - I dont have a spring compressor tool to do the swap, and I am forwarned by the problems others have had.....