Skoda Felicia damper failure

[swedishskoda]

Originally Posted by Mr Butter

HI -

Got myself a spair of complete suspension units from the scrappy (Spanish so NO RUST!) for 35 euros. I took a chance as they are from a petrol model - they appear identical - can I just fit them as is to my diesel? Is that a big NO NO of will I have to change the springs to cope with the extra weight of the engine??

I looked around and found a set of monroe reflex struts but they were 140 euros, (which quoted the same part number for all models) - I dont have a spring compressor tool to do the swap, and I am forwarned by the problems others have had.....

Checked the web catalogue of the dealer where I get my spare parts and the part numbers given are identical for the 1.6 petrol and 1.9 diesel.

[Mr Butter]

OK - done the swap - installed the (1.3!) petrol complete suspension units on my diesel..... Have taken it for a spin round the block, a tad more body roll perhaps, but much smoother over the traffic humps... I think they will be OK - please feel free to say otherwise if you know better as I will keep the old diesel springs just in case!!

As predicted the bottom strut clamp bolts were a BAST*RD (well one in particular). I only had WD40 on hand for the first bolt, which took 2 hours to wiggle and drift out. The second bolt I used a different spray lubricant and came out much easier in about 10 minutes (but was less corroded).

The technique I found worked was from this thread... using a single hexagon 16mm socket (that grips the flats of the nut) ,

1. Apply penetrating fluid and leave overnight

2. Use a breaker bar on the nut to crack the rust , wiggle to loosen, and remove the nut with ratchet. I had to be careful to keep the socket straight (as the nuts are apparently easily rounded off ) so used an extension to balance with one hand and 'wrench' with the other.

3. Apply more lubricant* and use breaker bar to crack the rust on the bolt. 'wiggle' the bolt to loosen then use ratchet to rotate the bolt until it moves freely.

4. Apply some more lubricant, and try to tap the bolt through with a large hammer and a drift /punch. If you are luck, out she pops, if not get it through as far as you can and go back to step 3...

This seemed to grind the corrosion keeping bolt jammed into a nice lubricated paste - loose enough to drift the bolt out mm by mm until it is free enough to be drifted through.

* I sprayed lube onto the strut retaining tab to get it onto the rusted middle section. I found when I changed from WD40 to a thicker spray lubricant (some Spanish brand "3CV") the second bolt came out much much easier.

Thanks for all the posts, couldnt have done it without them!

[Mr Butter]

Update.... went for the Spanish MOT today, passed with just an advisory to get a panoramic rear view mirror... BUT the type approval sticker has come off the towbar, so they wont give me the certificate until I remove it.... mmmmm never easy is it!

Ii'll have to cut the bolts as they are so rusty (worse than the suspension clamp bolts!!)

Anyway - the point is the Spanish MOT uses a 'wobble' and vertical movement machine to test the suspension and the shocks were fine. ....

[anewman]

I have come across some shocks quite cheap on ebay. AFAIK Favorit shocks should fit a Felicia without any issues, and may be cheaper, or sell for less if on Ebay as Favorit rather than Felicia.

Managed to pick up a pair of Boge fronts recently for £23.70 delivered, and a pair of Delphi rears for £28.99 delivered which I thought were good prices. They may have been laying about in a warehouse or something for a while though - and not sure how age in storage would affect shock absorbers.

One source for comparing parts numbers of shock absorbers and models of cars they're suitable for is the sachs boge website catalogue.

[yorkshirecoble]

after reading all this stuff about seized nuts and bolts i thought i'd pass on a little tip that i use, it works a treat although not neccessarily with instant results; use industrial cutting fluid such as ambersil. It cuts through the corrosion and prevents friction heat from causing the parts to shear. But be cautious with threaded parts, as this may cause the threads to be loose, and 'light metal' areas in particular. Best to use until movement is possible, then wash off thoroughly with something like WD40, then commence with penetration oil or whatever.

[MickA]

Well after reading this thread I had a go at replacing my front shocks.
Problem for me too is removing the bottom pinch bolt. Had quite a few swings with a lump hammer and tried to turn it with a 16mm hexegon socket as mentioned but just can't shift it. It's also had loads of plus-gas applied and left overnight.
Will give it another go tomorow before deciding whether to take to a garage for them to do.
Any other suggestions welcome.........

Mick

[anewman]

Originally Posted by MickA

Any other suggestions welcome.........

Mick

Have you tried a blow torch on full on the nut for a few minutes? you need the apex of the flame directly on the nut and try avoid heating the shock absorber and other components as much as possible. May be helpful to wear a pair of welders gauntlets and use a heatproof mat to deflect heat from everywhere but the nut.

Hopefully this approach won't damage anything else and the nut will crack off easily while hot.

You have my sympathies as seized nuts etc have to be the most irritating thing for a DIYer. Even worse is when studs and bolts snap

[MickA]

Originally Posted by anewman

Have you tried a blow torch on full on the nut for a few minutes? you need the apex of the flame directly on the nut and try avoid heating the shock absorber and other components as much as possible. May be helpful to wear a pair of welders gauntlets and use a heatproof mat to deflect heat from everywhere but the nut.

Hopefully this approach won't damage anything else and the nut will crack off easily while hot.

You have my sympathies as seized nuts etc have to be the most irritating thing for a DIYer. Even worse is when studs and bolts snap

Afraid I've only got a blow lamp, you know the type for soldering plumbing joints etc.....don't think that will generate enough heat.

Mick

[TeflonTom]

if you are going to use heat to remove the bottom clamp bolt, be very carefull and have a fire extinguisher to hand, if you accidently melt the brake hose it could flare up, also take care not to melt the cv boot

[MickA]

Originally Posted by TeflonTom

if you are going to use heat to remove the bottom clamp bolt, be very carefull and have a fire extinguisher to hand, if you accidently melt the brake hose it could flare up, also take care not to melt the cv boot

Yes duly noted, and my main concern about using any heat.

Mick

[anewman]

I've managed to set brake fluid on fire. Luckily not on anything on the car. It sort of starts to boil, expands quickly then sets on fire very easily. Burns a bit like brandy on a Christmas pudding. Oops. Not a pyromaniac, honest, lol.

Not sure if something like this would help or not... nut splitter - Google Product Search

[MickA]

It's not the nut on the bolt I want to remove, it's the bolt itself. Got the nut off no problems, it's driving that bolt out through the clamp that's causing problems. Tried turning it, definite no, tried belting it out with a lump hammer, no. It's stuck good and proper.
Will give it another session of hammering the hell out of it tomorrow and see if the plus-gas has worked better, weather permitting.

Mick

[TeflonTom]

try gettting a long lever such as a crowbar or a jack handle and levering down on the ball joint/track control arm, it might free it up

[MickA]

Well after 3 days hammering and cursing and soaking in plus-gas it's finally gave way to me. Of coarse not spent the whole 3 days at it just a few minutes each day but applying plus gas over that time. It's worked being patient, now another 3 days...hope not doing the other side.

Mick