This is a discussion on Oil Pressure Sensor Locations within the Maintenance & Performance forums, part of the General Motoring Discussions category; Probably one for Big K, but here goes anyway.... I have fitted an oil pressure gauge to my car. I ...
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| Dinosaur Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: North of the Watford Gap
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| Probably one for Big K, but here goes anyway.... I have fitted an oil pressure gauge to my car. I have fitted it in place of the usual sensor (above the oil filter). However, the standard unit is a single wire so I can't complete the circuit and my oil pressure warning light now comes on at anything above idle speed. Just driven 35 miles with it flashing at me and luckily no CEL. Is there an alternate place I could take my pressure feed off of ie a blanking nut in a suitable location? I know on Subarus there is a spare sensor location, with a blanking bolt, on the back of the block. Anything similar on the Skoda engine or is there a way of completing the circuit on the standard pressure sensor? Could I disable the standard sensor with a 1552 or VAG-COM? Thank you!
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| | #2 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: u.k
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| is the gauge sensor an inline one ie. remove oil pressure switch bolt on adapter with two ends (and a pipe for gauge) and screw oil pressure into adapter?
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| | #3 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: u.k
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| btw afaik the wire that goes to the oil pressure sensor is on a earth feed so you could probably just earth that wire out and soley rely on the gauge. but don't hold me to that one.
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| | #4 |
| Dinosaur Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: North of the Watford Gap
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| OK, I'll give it a go, although when I treid earthing it to the block the faultstill came up. Maybe I didn't earth it properly. Now found a co in the states who make a T piece so I can run both, or a 3 way so that I can do temp as well. Now trying to find a UK co that will do the same. Jon
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| | #5 |
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| Jon, since when has your car been LHD? ![]()
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| | #6 |
| Dinosaur Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: North of the Watford Gap
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| ![]() OK, all now sorted. Found that I can buy an adaptor for the princely sum of £2, so I bought several. All installed and working nicely, even got the standard sensor in place and hooked up. I thought our engines would run more oil pressure. Should be 3-4 bar at 2000 rpm, seems low to me but if that is what the book says....
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In addition does anyone know where I can get a 'cheap' DIN panel suitable for mounting 3 x gauges? Or do Skoda/VAG do a blank DIN panel and I'll get the old Dremel out and cut the holes myself. | |
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| Still a **** Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Chatham, Kent
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| | #10 |
| Dinosaur Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: North of the Watford Gap
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| M10 x 1 is the thread size. Buy a T piece adaptor from a local dealer (VDO if poss). Will cost about £3 ![]() If this works, these are my guages: ![]()
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| They look ![]() Just waiting for Mr Disco to extract digit and I'll fit mine too!
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| | #12 |
| Dinosaur Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: North of the Watford Gap
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| | #14 |
| Dinosaur Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: North of the Watford Gap
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| Under the bonnet stuf is a bit of a pain, will be easier in a couple of weeks ![]() Turbo guage is really easy. Cut into the vaccum pipe near the FPR, insert the plastic T piece that comes with the guage. Plug in the new vaccum pipe run to the under bonnet control module. Run the lead from the under bonnet control module back through into the cabin and plug in to the control module. Run a lead up to the first gauge from the controller. Wire up the controller (4 connections). Job done. At the same time we fitted the wiring for the oil pressure guage. Remove the OE sensor. Screw in the adaptor and attach both the OE sensor and the Defi one. This is a complete b***ard! Again, run the wiring back into the cabin and plug into the controller. Attach the daisychain wire from the boost gauge to the oil pressure gauge. Job done. I'll be getting some modified adaptors from the States at the end of next week. Unfortunately they cost about £20-£25 each but will make the task a whole lot easier as they are a remote T piece which are mounted about 12" away from the original, making it a lot easier to plug in the sensors. ![]() Whole job will take about 3 hours to wire in both. Jon
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| | #15 |
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| Jon, What sort of cost are you looking at for the boost gauge, mounting panel and wiring bits from John? Chris |
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