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Broken dials

This is a discussion on Broken dials within the Octavia I forums, part of the Skoda Model Discussion Area category; Don't know what brought this about but I have had this problem with my dials for a few months. Basically ...


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Old 09-05-2006, 16:16   #1
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Default Broken dials

Don't know what brought this about but I have had this problem with my dials for a few months.

Basically they don't work, most of the time. (W reg Octavia).

The fuel guage, speedo, rev counter and temp guage - none of them work, they all sit at zero. Although sometimes they spring to life and work for a few miles, then go back off. Other times they work fine when I start the car but can go off a few seconds later, or a few hours later.

Turning corners, going over bumps, braking/accelerating - none of it seems to have any major impact, it just seems totally random. The odometer still counts the mile though

I guessed it would be a loose connection or wires earthing each other out. Doesn't appear to be a fuse. I took it into the Skoda dealer and they said it could cost me anywhere from£50-£300 (robbing *******s).

So if anyone else has had this problem I'd appreciate it if they could help me out and let me know what turned out to be the problem, and how much $$$ it ended up costing them.

TIA

Alec
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Old 09-05-2006, 19:32   #2
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Default Re: Broken dials

I would think it possible that you will need a new combi-instrument - ie instrument panel - which costs anywhere between £378 and £509 depending on the spec of your car.
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Old 09-05-2006, 19:49   #3
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Default Re: Broken dials

I'd agree Denis.
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Old 09-05-2006, 19:56   #4
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Default Re: Broken dials

Well at that price it can stay broken. I was hoping it'd just be a loose connection somewhere behind the dash/dials.

Do you think I could take it to Skoda and have them plug it into the computer to tell me? Or would it not give a definite answer.

(Actually I have another question too - my "SERVICE OIL" warning is still on where the mile counter thing is, it has been serviced but not by Skoda and the message is still there - how do I turn it off? I've tried holding the button down while turning the key etc but it doesn't work).
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Old 09-05-2006, 19:58   #5
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Default Re: Broken dials

If you were feeling adventurous you could perhaps try an electronics expert and see if there is a dry joint or something. Ultimately you'll have to be prepared to get another one though.
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Old 09-05-2006, 19:59   #6
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Default Re: Broken dials

It needs diagnostic equipment to clear it.
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Old 10-05-2006, 19:38   #7
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Default Re: Broken dials

This is bad news. Only got my 6 yo Octy 1.6GLX on Saturday (with a very limited engine & gearbox warranty). Filled the tank straight away and the gauge stayed on empty for a while, then sprung into life. Despite working during test drive, temp gauge stayed in place during initial stages of drive home, then sprung into life. Still fluctuates a bit, could stay stuck on cold for 10 mins driving, then edge its way to normal - could drop down a bit while driving and then go back to normal. I wonder could it be a power supply to the instrument binnacle? Hard to see two instruments side by side failing together otherwise...???
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Old 10-05-2006, 19:41   #8
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Default Re: Broken dials

More than likely the stabilizer in the dash pod if more than one gauge is playing up.
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Old 10-05-2006, 19:59   #9
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Default Re: Broken dials

How exactly would I get at that and what might be involved?
(No doubt the forthcoming Haynes manual will make that repair a piece of cake.... )
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Old 10-05-2006, 20:00   #10
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Default Re: Broken dials

How do you get at it? You cant, its part of the dash, hence requiring a new dash cluster.
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Old 10-05-2006, 20:04   #11
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Default Re: Broken dials

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dilbert
This is bad news. Only got my 6 yo Octy 1.6GLX on Saturday (with a very limited engine & gearbox warranty). Filled the tank straight away and the gauge stayed on empty for a while, then sprung into life. Despite working during test drive, temp gauge stayed in place during initial stages of drive home, then sprung into life. Still fluctuates a bit, could stay stuck on cold for 10 mins driving, then edge its way to normal - could drop down a bit while driving and then go back to normal. I wonder could it be a power supply to the instrument binnacle? Hard to see two instruments side by side failing together otherwise...???
Is the speedo OK?
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Old 10-05-2006, 20:09   #12
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Default Re: Broken dials

Perfect - odometer & trip computer too
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Old 10-05-2006, 20:19   #13
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Default Re: Broken dials

If you can get the thing out a good leccy will be able to take it apart, take out the circuit board and fix it. Just need a radio repair person or an leccy engineer etc who can use a scope, find the buggered part, source it and change it.

Probably £50-100 all in if you can find the right person and can actually get the parts.
As to wether this can be done depends on a lot of things and this is no guarantee.
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Old 11-05-2006, 13:17   #14
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Default Re: Broken dials

You know I'm beginning to wonder if I've got two seperate problems? First 18 miles of my commute is 100km/h - this morning it stayed on cold for that entire section. Once I hit a 60km/h area, with traffic in front of me, it warmed up almost instantly and stayed warm for the remaining couple of miles. Could the thermostat be sticking, open in this case? The fuel gauge could be an iffy sender unit... Or am I just fooling myself into believing that I won't have to crack open the dash?
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Old 11-05-2006, 13:48   #15
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Default Re: Broken dials

Well a thermostat and sender unit are very cheap compared to a dash, so I know what I'd be changing first if it was my money.
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Old 20-05-2006, 09:26   #16
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Default Re: Broken dials

You ought to get the EPC light checked out. Have you had a look to make sure your brake lights are working ok?

You may have a wiring issue on the temp sender.

There does seem to be a few issues with dash pods cropping up recently, I wouldn't be surprised if some were caused by dry soldered joints in the pod.

Getting the fault codes read will be a good start. Try looking in the thread called vag-com map for someone near you.
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Old 17-11-2006, 14:59   #17
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Default Re: Broken dials

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alec View Post
Don't know what brought this about but I have had this problem with my dials for a few months.

Basically they don't work, most of the time. (W reg Octavia).

The fuel guage, speedo, rev counter and temp guage - none of them work, they all sit at zero. Although sometimes they spring to life and work for a few miles, then go back off. Other times they work fine when I start the car but can go off a few seconds later, or a few hours later.

Turning corners, going over bumps, braking/accelerating - none of it seems to have any major impact, it just seems totally random. The odometer still counts the mile though

I guessed it would be a loose connection or wires earthing each other out. Doesn't appear to be a fuse. I took it into the Skoda dealer and they said it could cost me anywhere from£50-£300 (robbing *******s).

So if anyone else has had this problem I'd appreciate it if they could help me out and let me know what turned out to be the problem, and how much $$$ it ended up costing them.

TIA

Alec
Hello Alex,

I have got the same problem with the instruments as yourself, and exactly as you describe it. I also notice that the 'lights on' warning buzzer also does not function any longer. My Octavia is the same year and a 1.6 like yours. I have posted other threads on the site about the problem, that you may also like to look at. The fault that we have is a well known one, to our particular model.
I have noticed that if I remove fuse 7 from the fuse box, which is a 'brown 5amp' one, then the speedo, rev counter, temperature gauge, petrol gauge all work normally again, but when turning off the ignition, remain at the last recorded reading. When the ignition is turned on again the needles all reset them selves to zero, but then read again normally. But the 'time clock' resets to zero each time, which I have found is the only draw back. But wrist watches are cheap enough, or a stick on crystal display.
This is not a cure, but at least is a cheap option, which will also allow your car to pass the MOT test
I have spent ages with a Haynes manual, which has a poor wiring diagram, and actually says that fuse 7 is for the reversing lights, but take my word for it, that it is one of two for the instrument cluster.
I would suggest that you find fuse 7, and try removing it, and see how it alters your problem, as I can certainly live with mine, how it is now, instead of sheeling out a load of money etc.

Regards SOVIET
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Old 17-11-2006, 15:08   #18
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Default Re: Broken dials

Quote:
Originally Posted by VRStu View Post
You ought to get the EPC light checked out. Have you had a look to make sure your brake lights are working ok?

You may have a wiring issue on the temp sender.

There does seem to be a few issues with dash pods cropping up recently, I wouldn't be surprised if some were caused by dry soldered joints in the pod.

Getting the fault codes read will be a good start. Try looking in the thread called vag-com map for someone near you.
Hello Stu,

I have been reading your reply to Alex, about instrument failure, and I shelled out £60 to the dealer in Swindon, to have the VAGCOM done but the fult does not show up. This included a coolent temperature sensor which they thought mayt be causing the trouble, which I fitted myself but did not alter things.
I have found out the following, which I have sent to Alex, and am pasting to you:-
Hello Alex,

I have got the same problem with the instruments as yourself, and exactly as you describe it. I also notice that the 'lights on' warning buzzer also does not function any longer. My Octavia is the same year and a 1.6 like yours. I have posted other threads on the site about the problem, that you may also like to look at. The fault that we have is a well known one, to our particular model.
I have noticed that if I remove fuse 7 from the fuse box, which is a 'brown 5amp' one, then the speedo, rev counter, temperature gauge, petrol gauge all work normally again, but when turning off the ignition, remain at the last recorded reading. When the ignition is turned on again the needles all reset them selves to zero, but then read again normally. But the 'time clock' resets to zero each time, which I have found is the only draw back. But wrist watches are cheap enough, or a stick on crystal display.
This is not a cure, but at least is a cheap option, which will also allow your car to pass the MOT test
I have spent ages with a Haynes manual, which has a poor wiring diagram, and actually says that fuse 7 is for the reversing lights, but take my word for it, that it is one of two for the instrument cluster.
I would suggest that you find fuse 7, and try removing it, and see how it alters your problem, as I can certainly live with mine, how it is now, instead of sheeling out a load of money etc.

Regards SOVIET
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