Electrical fault?

JCT · 17-05-2006, 08:38

Hi

Has anybody else had a similiar problem to this:-

I have a 1999 Octavia, 1.8T 20V. Recently when driving the speedo, rev counter, petrol gauge and temp gauge die and come back to life. This happens for seconds. However today it seems to have got worse and stayed dead for longer. I have lifted the bonnet 'wiggled' varies wires around, but have yet to find the one or ones that may be loose or broken.

My thinking is that it may be something to do with the electrical connections to the throtle body. Until I had the car serviced recently I didn't have this problem. For what ever reason the garage played around with the throtle body, is it possible that there is an electrical connention at this point that would effect all four dials on the dash?

Thank you in advance for any advice given.

Regards

JCT

***DGW*** · 17-05-2006, 12:15

Other members' experiences with similar problems would point towards a replacement instrument cluster being needed. Not cheap, unfortunately.

JCT · 17-05-2006, 12:40

Hi DWG

Thanks for the info, is this a common problem with Skoda/VW/Seat?

JCT

Goochie · 17-05-2006, 13:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCT

Hi DWG

Thanks for the info, is this a common problem with Skoda/VW/Seat?

JCT

Not really a common problem on the Octavia but the Audi TT (also based on a Golf) has huge problems with the "dash pod"

***DGW*** · 18-05-2006, 16:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCT

Thanks for the info, is this a common problem with Skoda/VW/Seat?

It is not a common fault on this forum - just a known one.

ppan · 10-10-2006, 20:12

Hi, I have the same problem !! I thing that the reason is some "cold soldering '' on the print circuit board.

cheezemonkhai · 11-10-2006, 01:22

cracked joints or dry joints prehaps.

You will get a poor contact if the pins and board are not up to temp when you apply the solder to the board.

Guess if you are willing you could take the thing out inspect the circuits and reflow the solder joints that look a bit off. I'd guess the power circuits would be the first place to look.

Turbo_Boss · 11-10-2006, 04:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheezemonkhai

cracked joints or dry joints prehaps.
You will get a poor contact if the pins and board are not up to temp when you apply the solder to the board.
Guess if you are willing you could take the thing out inspect the circuits and reflow the solder joints that look a bit off. I'd guess the power circuits would be the first place to look.

If I was you, I remove the instrument cluster and disasemble it. There are 2 big conectors on the back of the instrument cluster. Maybe there is a pin on the female conectors on the instrument PC Board that have a cold/craked solder joint and is making a intermitent conection and thats why your instrument sometimes work..............Maybe is a faulty ground.

If you have installed a car radio, amplifier, or a car alarm before, this should be a easy job for you. If you are not comfortable working with it, I recommend you find a qualified individual to help you with this.

Good luck

Isaac

cheezemonkhai · 11-10-2006, 12:33

Would be really good to find out why they are failing and if it is a dry or cracked joint where are taking it out and soldering it it a few pence job and a new pod is in the hundreds.

billyblueskoda · 17-10-2006, 19:51

Have similar problem but now all gauges NEVER work. Have had it into Skoda garage and paid them £60 plus VAT for diagnostics that couldn't identify problem. Quoted £600 for complete new dash.
Could anyone who has managed to solve this problem please post their solution.

Thanks

akron · 17-10-2006, 21:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by billyblueskoda

Have similar problem but now all gauges NEVER work. Have had it into Skoda garage and paid them £60 plus VAT for diagnostics that couldn't identify problem. Quoted £600 for complete new dash.
Could anyone who has managed to solve this problem please post their solution.

Thanks

So that's their diagnosis then? New dash instrument pod for £600 even though the diagnostic equipment showed nothing?
Sounds like they are guessing to me. Possibly the most obvious cure yes, but what happens if it's still duff after spending all that hard earned?

cheezemonkhai · 17-10-2006, 22:07

Has anybody got an old failed dash pod that they no longer use.

I'd be really keen to disassemble one of these and find out what part or parts have failed. I'm sure whatever it is will be a lot cheaper than £600 to fix.

Turbo_Boss · 18-10-2006, 04:25

I am pretty sure it has to be a loose conector or a cold/craked solder joint inside the instrument cluster.

What about getting a new one from a junk yard or just remove it and check it out.

Check the two conectors on the back of the instrument cluster. I think one is blue and the other is green. Here is a pic of the back.

To remove the instrument cluster is very easy. Here are some pics in order that you check it out. Eaven that they show the steering wheel removed, YOU DONT NEED TO REMOVE IT. Follow pic S70-0161 and S70-0162

If for any reason, you need to remove the cover PIC S70-0164. There is a screw that is hidden under the head light swith........So make sure to take out the Head light swith first in order that you can remove that screw so you can take out the cover

Good luck, and make sure to take pictures for us

Isaac

billyblueskoda · 18-10-2006, 16:40

Thanks very much - that's a lot of efforrt you've put into helping us, it's much appreciated.
I'm not much of a mechanic but I might give it a go.
I'm also trying to push out a bump on the back door but am finding it almost impossible to remove the door trim. I've taken out all the screws, removed the window winder and the single screw in behind the speaker at the lock but I don't know why it won't now come off. It seems to be that the door handle splits in 2 but if I try to prise it open with any more force it feels like something will snap - any ideas?

cheezemonkhai · 18-10-2006, 17:30

If somebody can get a non working pod to me that they don't mind loosing I'll have a good going over it. If i find anything i'll fix it up and give it back to you, hopefully working, and post the results up here.

billyblueskoda · 19-10-2006, 19:53

Removed the instrument panel last night and disconnetcted the wiring, shook it about a bit then re-connected but no joy. Looks like I'll need to go to the scrappy and buy a second-hand instrument panel and hope that that's the problem.
There is another thread along the same lines as this one.
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octav...strument+panel

Turbo_Boss · 20-10-2006, 01:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by billyblueskoda

Removed the instrument panel last night and disconnetcted the wiring, shook it about a bit then re-connected but no joy. Looks like I'll need to go to the scrappy and buy a second-hand instrument panel and hope that that's the problem.
There is another thread along the same lines as this one.
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octav...strument+panel

So if you keep the 2 wirings connectors NOT connected to the instrument cluster, Do the engine start???

Also, do you have a friend that also have a Octavia? Maybe you can remove his cluster and try it on yours to see if it work or try yours on the other Octavia to see to see if work.

Also, the best thing you can do is to take your cluster to a electronic guy so he can open it and check the PC Board for a loose a cut trace, bad solder or cold sorder.

So do my instrucction pics help you to remove the cluster?

Isaac

cheezemonkhai · 20-10-2006, 01:38

Isn't the imobiliser linked to the cluster.

If you just get one from a scrapper you are stuck. Also the thing will always show the scrapped cars mileage.

If you do get a second hand one and depending where you are, would you mind dropping the broken one in my direction so i could try and find out where this fault is. Obviously if i fixed it i would return it to you for the postage cost.

Turbo_Boss · 20-10-2006, 02:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheezemonkhai

Isn't the imobiliser linked to the cluster.
If you just get one from a scrapper you are stuck.

Thats why I ask if he keep the 2 wirings connectors NOT connected to the instrument cluster, Do the engine start???

Isaac

billyblueskoda · 22-10-2006, 13:00

Went to local scrap merchant on Saturday morning and removed instrument panel from Octavia (£30). Have fitted it and petrol gauge and rev counter now work ok but the immobiliser now doesn't allow the car to start. I think I need to take it into Skoda dealer for them to re-programme the keys - unless anyone knows better!
By the way, I wouldn't mind posting my old instrument panel out to you but I'll keep a hold of it until I get the problem resolved as it looks like I'll need to put it back in to get the car to start.
I'm going out to car just now to see if car will start without instrumenty panel attached.
Car doesn't start with instrument panel disconnected. Spoke on phone to 2 auto electricians who say I need to take into Skoda dealer for them to re-programme. Have had to put old panel back in to get car to start and I'll take into Skoda on Monday. Will keep you posted regarding the outcome.

17-05-2006, 08:38	#1
JCT Briskodian Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Electrical fault? Hi Has anybody else had a similiar problem to this:- I have a 1999 Octavia, 1.8T 20V. Recently when driving the speedo, rev counter, petrol gauge and temp gauge die and come back to life. This happens for seconds. However today it seems to have got worse and stayed dead for longer. I have lifted the bonnet 'wiggled' varies wires around, but have yet to find the one or ones that may be loose or broken. My thinking is that it may be something to do with the electrical connections to the throtle body. Until I had the car serviced recently I didn't have this problem. For what ever reason the garage played around with the throtle body, is it possible that there is an electrical connention at this point that would effect all four dials on the dash? Thank you in advance for any advice given. Regards JCT

17-05-2006, 12:15	#2
*DGW* BRISKODA Staff Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 17,119 Thanks: 48 Thanked 166 Times in 123 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? Other members' experiences with similar problems would point towards a replacement instrument cluster being needed. Not cheap, unfortunately. __________________ Denis 2002 Octavia 1.8T 4X4 turbo Estate - rebreathed on by Jabba ... 31.93mpg 2007 Fabia vRS - CC, ESP and full leather trim by Seat Surgeons ...48.09 mpg...

17-05-2006, 12:40	#3
JCT Briskodian Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? Hi DWG Thanks for the info, is this a common problem with Skoda/VW/Seat? JCT

10-10-2006, 20:12	#6
ppan Briskodian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: GREECE Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? Hi, I have the same problem !! I thing that the reason is some "cold soldering '' on the print circuit board.

11-10-2006, 01:22	#7
cheezemonkhai Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 14,631 Thanks: 87 Thanked 398 Times in 369 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? cracked joints or dry joints prehaps. You will get a poor contact if the pins and board are not up to temp when you apply the solder to the board. Guess if you are willing you could take the thing out inspect the circuits and reflow the solder joints that look a bit off. I'd guess the power circuits would be the first place to look. __________________ Cars make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By driving your car you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

11-10-2006, 12:33	#9
cheezemonkhai Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 14,631 Thanks: 87 Thanked 398 Times in 369 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? Would be really good to find out why they are failing and if it is a dry or cracked joint where are taking it out and soldering it it a few pence job and a new pod is in the hundreds. __________________ Cars make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By driving your car you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

17-10-2006, 19:51	#10
billyblueskoda Briskodian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Dundee Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? Have similar problem but now all gauges NEVER work. Have had it into Skoda garage and paid them £60 plus VAT for diagnostics that couldn't identify problem. Quoted £600 for complete new dash. Could anyone who has managed to solve this problem please post their solution. Thanks

17-10-2006, 22:07	#12
cheezemonkhai Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 14,631 Thanks: 87 Thanked 398 Times in 369 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? Has anybody got an old failed dash pod that they no longer use. I'd be really keen to disassemble one of these and find out what part or parts have failed. I'm sure whatever it is will be a lot cheaper than £600 to fix. __________________ Cars make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By driving your car you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

18-10-2006, 04:25	#13
Turbo_Boss Briskodian Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Panama Republic of Panama Posts: 307 Thanks: 1 Thanked 9 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? I am pretty sure it has to be a loose conector or a cold/craked solder joint inside the instrument cluster. What about getting a new one from a junk yard or just remove it and check it out. Check the two conectors on the back of the instrument cluster. I think one is blue and the other is green. Here is a pic of the back. To remove the instrument cluster is very easy. Here are some pics in order that you check it out. Eaven that they show the steering wheel removed, YOU DONT NEED TO REMOVE IT. Follow pic S70-0161 and S70-0162 If for any reason, you need to remove the cover PIC S70-0164. There is a screw that is hidden under the head light swith........So make sure to take out the Head light swith first in order that you can remove that screw so you can take out the cover Good luck, and make sure to take pictures for us Isaac __________________ A little help goes a long way with some people, as it does here at Briskoda.

18-10-2006, 16:40	#14
billyblueskoda Briskodian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Dundee Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? Thanks very much - that's a lot of efforrt you've put into helping us, it's much appreciated. I'm not much of a mechanic but I might give it a go. I'm also trying to push out a bump on the back door but am finding it almost impossible to remove the door trim. I've taken out all the screws, removed the window winder and the single screw in behind the speaker at the lock but I don't know why it won't now come off. It seems to be that the door handle splits in 2 but if I try to prise it open with any more force it feels like something will snap - any ideas?

18-10-2006, 17:30	#15
cheezemonkhai Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 14,631 Thanks: 87 Thanked 398 Times in 369 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? If somebody can get a non working pod to me that they don't mind loosing I'll have a good going over it. If i find anything i'll fix it up and give it back to you, hopefully working, and post the results up here. __________________ Cars make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By driving your car you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

19-10-2006, 19:53	#16
billyblueskoda Briskodian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Dundee Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? Removed the instrument panel last night and disconnetcted the wiring, shook it about a bit then re-connected but no joy. Looks like I'll need to go to the scrappy and buy a second-hand instrument panel and hope that that's the problem. There is another thread along the same lines as this one. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octav...strument+panel

20-10-2006, 01:38	#18
cheezemonkhai Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 14,631 Thanks: 87 Thanked 398 Times in 369 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? Isn't the imobiliser linked to the cluster. If you just get one from a scrapper you are stuck. Also the thing will always show the scrapped cars mileage. If you do get a second hand one and depending where you are, would you mind dropping the broken one in my direction so i could try and find out where this fault is. Obviously if i fixed it i would return it to you for the postage cost. __________________ Cars make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By driving your car you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

22-10-2006, 13:00	#20
billyblueskoda Briskodian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Dundee Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Electrical fault? Went to local scrap merchant on Saturday morning and removed instrument panel from Octavia (£30). Have fitted it and petrol gauge and rev counter now work ok but the immobiliser now doesn't allow the car to start. I think I need to take it into Skoda dealer for them to re-programme the keys - unless anyone knows better! By the way, I wouldn't mind posting my old instrument panel out to you but I'll keep a hold of it until I get the problem resolved as it looks like I'll need to put it back in to get the car to start. I'm going out to car just now to see if car will start without instrumenty panel attached. Car doesn't start with instrument panel disconnected. Spoke on phone to 2 auto electricians who say I need to take into Skoda dealer for them to re-programme. Have had to put old panel back in to get car to start and I'll take into Skoda on Monday. Will keep you posted regarding the outcome. Last edited by billyblueskoda; 22-10-2006 at 14:18.

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