This is a discussion on How to tell what tdi engine within the Octavia I forums, part of the Skoda Model Discussion Area category; Hi all In the next few weeks I am looking at getting an Octavia tdi. What I am wanting to ...
| |||||||
Pronounced "bris-skoda", a brisk skoda. | Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
| | #1 |
| Briskodian Join Date: May 2007 Location: Harrogate
Posts: 123
Thanks: 2
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
| Hi all In the next few weeks I am looking at getting an Octavia tdi. What I am wanting to know is how do I tell what version of the engine the car has 90, 110, 130, as there are a few on ebay but the listings are not saying. Were the engines different for different years. I really want a 130 one. How are the different powers achieved??? Many thanks Simon
__________________ Don't take life too seriously...none of us get out alive anyway Under steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you |
| | |
| | #2 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: kent
Posts: 397
Thanks: 16
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
| Octy 130 is the best for performance , i have one , you will know a 130 as it is the only one with a 6 speed gear box , engine code is ASZ , think they were from year 2003 to 2004 only , not many about . Normally in the elegance spec . |
| | |
| | #3 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 208
Thanks: 1
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
| look at the tdi badges, they are as follows: 90BHP= all silver TDI 110BHP= Silver TD and red I 130BHP= Silver T and red DI Hope this helps.
__________________ Octavia 1.9TDi, exeons, painted brake calipers, 18" VW anniversary wheels, rear spoliler, front and rear aero wipers, Ram-Air induction kit, 2x JBL 1200w subs, JL audio door speakers, 3000w Amp, sony GT710 CD player, Tuning box unit. Longlife Full stainless exhaust system, Decat pipe. |
| | |
| | #4 | |
| Marmite Burner Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Upper Ramsbottom
Posts: 5,310
Thanks: 48
Thanked 175 Times in 144 Posts
| Quote:
Best bet is to check the chassis number against VRStu's list in http://www.briskoda.net/forums/refer...verview/78873/ Parkers gives a summary of the models / specs available - Facts & Figures - Parker's
__________________ The future's bright The future's mellow | |
| | |
| The Following User Says Thank You to andy2407 For This Useful Post: | mantamad (03-02-2008)
|
| | #5 |
| Briskodian Join Date: May 2007 Location: Harrogate
Posts: 123
Thanks: 2
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
| Thanks for the help. What things do I need to be looking out for when buying a Octavia Mk1? (my dad says its not a Mk1 as he had one new in the 60's )We are looking at spending around the £6k mark. Thanks again for your help. Simon
__________________ Don't take life too seriously...none of us get out alive anyway Under steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you |
| | |
| | #6 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Durkar
Posts: 1,568
Thanks: 67
Thanked 53 Times in 43 Posts
| There will be the odd PD130 out there for around 6k, I bought mine @3year old with 86,000 miles, FSH, Ex Fleet car so it's body work is not the best for 7k but if you are after a performance diesel theres no better place to start if you want the Octavia. I've attached my latest vag-com runs to show you what sort of power can be achieved through a remap and filter. Things to check for, Service book, if high milage make sure the timing belt has been replaced on schedule, mine was done at 80,000k Uneaven tyre wear (espesially if high milage) My rear tyres were worn very unevenly Check all electric things work (windows/Sun Roof if it has one/Lights/central locking/radio/cd/wipers/air con/climate control etc etc) If looking at the estate check for sign of the paint bubbling around the boot handle, this seems to be quite common Look down the panels, check for unusually big or small panel gaps or panels that look like they may have been resprayed Check the engine bay, is it clean or dirty? if it's clean ask why it's clean (they could be trying to hide something). Look under the car, is there sign's of oil/water leakages, there may be water from the air/con climate control which is nothing to worry about) Take it for a test drive, if its the pd130 and it's high milage put it into 3rd/4th and put your foot to the floor from a slow speed, do the revs build much quicker than the acceleration (clutch could be on it's way out, you will also smell metalic burning) this could be expensive but if your after more power could be a good bargaining tool to get some money off togo towards a performance clutch. If it is the pd130 and has a sun roof and has an annoying squeek when accelerating from low revs press the plastic cover in front of the sunroof, the noise should now go away. I'm sure I've missed loads of things but these are the checks I did when buying mine. Last edited by matt@theforce; 04-02-2008 at 09:05. |
| | |
| | #7 |
| Marmite Burner Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Upper Ramsbottom
Posts: 5,310
Thanks: 48
Thanked 175 Times in 144 Posts
| Just for your dad...... http://www.briskoda.net/forums/other...ctavias/86380/ Dads are always right by the way
__________________ The future's bright The future's mellow |
| | |
| | #8 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 522
Thanks: 0
Thanked 17 Times in 14 Posts
| The realistic trade value of your car is now about £3k - on a good day, anyone that can't find a PD130 for under £4k (now - not when you bought it) isn't trying. |
| | |
| | #9 | |
| Briskodian Join Date: May 2007 Location: Harrogate
Posts: 123
Thanks: 2
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
| Quote:
Simon
__________________ Don't take life too seriously...none of us get out alive anyway Under steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you Last edited by mantamad; 04-02-2008 at 20:40. | |
| | |
| | #10 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Durkar
Posts: 1,568
Thanks: 67
Thanked 53 Times in 43 Posts
| I too think I would struggle to find a pd130 for under 4k. I know you did say trade though. Like I say, mine was high milage and covered in stone chips, slipping clutch & duff rear shocks and was over 3k less than what I could find on a dealers forecourt. |
| | |
| | #11 |
| Why me ? Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2,558
Thanks: 143
Thanked 88 Times in 76 Posts
| Does my head in when people pop up and say something like this ...... when there just ISN'T that kind of car available. Love to see you prove this Kandy with sourcing one for the guy. |
| | |
| | #12 |
| Decapodian Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: On the back of an AA truck with a failed turbo
Posts: 10,383
Thanks: 20
Thanked 175 Times in 130 Posts
| You won't get a decent PD130 for under 4 grand unless it's been round the planet 10 times. The PD130 engine was available in the Elegance and L&K from 53 plate onwards , and also in some Ambiente SE which were (I think) 05 plates. The easiest way to know for sure is the gearbox - only the PD130 has a 6 speed. The non-PD TDI 110 is also worth a look (Again in Elegance and L&K) as it's more economical and not much slower. I'd avoid the 90bhp version
__________________ Alex "I laugh in the face of danger, then I hide until it goes away" www.drzoidberg.co.uk |
| | |
BRISKODA.net is operated by Summit 360 Ltd