Problems with locks.... fuel and rear door

[asylum]

HI - I have just bought an octy tdi 1.9 90bhp,

But it has two 'interesting' faults:

1) the auto realase on the fuel cap does not work. I have removed the unit, tested both the supply voltage on the connector and the unit itself. When the button in the dash is pressed there is 11.65 volts deliverd to the connectors. When i supply the unit with 12 v from a spare car battery it works just fine, but when connected together (and the connections are clean and bright!) nothing happens! - i am baffled, what can the fault be? In the meantime i have to manually operate the lock from inside the boot.

2) the drivers side rear door is permanatly locked. It cannot be opend by the central locking, or by the interior door release. when the central locking is activated there is a dull clicking from inside the door, so i suspect a mechanical failure. BUt how do i get inside the door to attempt to fix the problem (or just open the door!) when it is shut. what (again) can the problem be??

Thanks for any help you can give,
Andy

[Wolfsbane2k]

Eek,

It's possible that you're rear door lock has had an electrical failure stopping the deadlocks from de-activating. Had it in my car for a while.

I'd avoid going down this route if you can, but if your stuck and handy with a multimeter/croc clips and have some 12v cable spare you can do this:
1) Sitting in the car, split the door handle, take out the two bolts and pull off the door interior-gently! if you pull in the appropriate places it will come away.
2) Take apart the other door - torqs screws all around the edge.
3) run power from other door's lock to broken lock
4) unlock all
5) check power runs on all cables to that lock
6) find broken link
7) replace!

Took me about 5 hours to do from scratch from start to full replacement when i got into it properly.
Required parts: New Door membrane

Honestly, I hope that's your last option!

W2k

[KenONeill]

Similar argument with (1) I think. The only way that the opener spring can be ok and the cap release work when powered directly but not from the dash is if there's a problem with the dash switch or the power cable to the flap.

[asylum]

hi - thanks wolfsbane, I have the lock out now - its mechanically had it inside, but had to do exactly as you said.

New (old) part on order from scrapyard so will let folks knwo if its fixed when its fitted.

As regards the fuel flap Ken, i have had the dash switch out, it has four wires going to it, the two heavy ones carry 12V and supply 12V when the switch is depressed (12V across the switch) The other two are thin and have continuety whether switch is active or not!

BUT the unit end of the loom has (when dash button is pressed) no voltage on at all when plugged in but 12 V when not plugged in! - therefore I suspect some sort of relay may be the problem, does anyone know where such a relay may be located??

Ta

Andy

[soviet]

Hi,

All relays, or the majority of them are located above the drivers footwell, under a black plastic cover that is being held in by two screws.
And are behind the diagnostic socket where vag-com is plugging in.
The Haynes manual is telling me that there are two wires one brown and the other blue/red but I am not sure if the switch contacts that I am seeing in the diagram are part of the operating switch or contacts on a relay.
The little box is on page 12.28 of the manual (Typical central locking schematic) and is labelled as 89 filler cap release switch, and so my thoughts here are that it is just a plain switch and not part of any relay.

The earth connection is coming to the switch on the brown wire which when operating it pushes the earth out on the blue/red wire to the filler cap release motor, which is having 12v on its other side via a red/yellow wire to fuse 38 in the box, which is the 10amp one here.

I hope that this is some help for your problem.

Soviet

[soviet]

Originally Posted by soviet

Hi,

All relays, or the majority of them are located above the drivers footwell, under a black plastic cover that is being held in by two screws.
And are behind the diagnostic socket where vag-com is plugging in.
The Haynes manual is telling me that there are two wires one brown and the other blue/red but I am not sure if the switch contacts that I am seeing in the diagram are part of the operating switch or contacts on a relay.
The little box is on page 12.28 of the manual (Typical central locking schematic) and is labeled as 89 filler cap release switch, and so my thoughts here are that it is just a plain switch and not part of any relay.

The earth connection is coming to the switch on the brown wire which when operating it pushes the earth out on the blue/red wire to the filler cap release motor, which is having 12v on its other side via a red/yellow wire to fuse 38 in the box, which is the 10amp one here.

I hope that this is some help for your problem.

Soviet

Hi, after now reading some of your earlier threads on the fuel flap problem I am puzzled as why you have 12volt on the switch, as the manual of Haynes is showing an earth supply to the filler cap release motor. And this would be an earth across the switch when activated.
It would not maybe the possibility that the motor is faulty, and putting 12volt across the switch here, but not enough current to blow the supply fuse? The motor is sticking in one place when power is applied, maybe?

The manual could be wrong possibly, as it is saying that it is only a typical guide situation that is being shown here?

If I get some time I will measure the voltage on the two thick wires on the operating switch of my car, as mine is the same model as the one you have.

Soviet(puzzled)

[drive]

as dull as this may seem but my fuel flap wouldnt open,also the central locking packed in but it was clicking but not locking or unlocking

DUH!!!!!!!! FUSE LOL

CERI

[asylum]

Hi,

thanks, but the fuses are all fine (central locking works too!)

The switch really does have four wires coming in and out of it, but only voltage on th ethick two, the thin two have no power on, but a full continuity ok whether contact is made or not.

do you know any more about where these wires lead or what they do - which relay??

the motor unit works fine when supplied 12 from a spare battery i have, as does not stick at all.


puzzled!

ta

[soviet]

Originally Posted by asylum

Hi,

thanks, but the fuses are all fine (central locking works too!)

The switch really does have four wires coming in and out of it, but only voltage on th ethick two, the thin two have no power on, but a full continuity ok whether contact is made or not.

do you know any more about where these wires lead or what they do - which relay??

the motor unit works fine when supplied 12 from a spare battery i have, as does not stick at all.


puzzled!

ta

Hi,

The Haynes manual is telling me that the two thick wires are brown conected to earth, which goes through the switch to a blue/red wire which is connecting to the earthy side of the motor. The positive side of the motor goes to fuse 38 which is showing a 10amp one.

The Haynes manual is calling box 89, filler cap release switch, (and no relay.) It also shows two other wires a Grey/blue and a brown which go to a signal type lamp. these are possibly the two thin wires that you are saying, but do not appear to have any affect with the filler cap release motor.

Do you have the Haynes manual? As it is being shown on the page 12.28.

Soviet