Ignition Timing & Points Gap

[Phaeton]

Not been lucky enough to get a HBOL yet so could do with a little information please. Actually got to drive today & I know I wasn't expecting lightening performace from the 136 engine but it was rather more sedate than I had presumed. I think it's running rich as the exhaust is quite sooty, but I wanted to start by checking the timing. Can somebody provide me with points gap, static timing, strobe timing, dwell angle & what the marks on the casing represent please.

Cheers

Alan...

[daverapid]

Set the points gap to 0.4mm and the ignition timing to between 3 and 7 degrees before TDC at idle with the vacuum advance pipe disconnected. The 0 on the timing case represents TDC and each mark on the scale is 5 degreees. Best way to set the timing to give optimum performance is to set it at 7 degrees, road test it and if it pinks back it off a little at a time until it doesn't pink. The spark plugs should have a gap of 0.60mm. Shell Optimax, BP Ultimate or equivalent is best, it costs a little more but you get it back in economy and performance. It's very important to set the valve clearances too, if they go tight you'll get sluggish performance, poor starting and ultimately burnt valves.

Is a standard Jikov carb fitted?

No standard rear engined Skoda is fast, but the 136 if set up right is fairly nippy.

[Phaeton]

Originally Posted by daverapid

It's very important to set the valve clearances too, if they go tight you'll get sluggish performance, poor starting and ultimately burnt valves.

Do you have the settings, if the weather isn't shine/rain/sleet/shine/sleet/rain/shine tomorrow I might have a go.

Originally Posted by daverapid

Is a standard Jikov carb fitted?

It is at the moment, I would like a Webber, but found nowhere to buy a manifold as yet, also seen posts for an 'Ashley' (is that right) exhaust which looks like a 4 branch which I'd like as well.

Originally Posted by daverapid

No standard rear engined Skoda is fast, but the 136 if set up right is fairly nippy.

Wasn't expecting fast, but I certainly didn't feel nippy, as I said it was more like sedate. However I think I broke a handbrake cable, which means that maybe the rear brakes are binding & it could be the mixture is up the spout.

Alan...

[Richard Black]

Valve clearance 0.2 to 0.25mm.

You broke a handbrake cable? It's a pretty tough cable - it was probably on the verge anyway. More likely that the cable itself was binding than the brakes, though. Give them a quick check (at the very least you'll want to check the condition of the liningon the shoes), it's all easy enough to do.

The 0 degrees timing mark on the case is made explicit - you can see it if you use a torch, clean some muck off, and squint a bit!

[Phaeton]

I'm saying it's a broken cable, the lever comes all the way up to the stop & the car still rolls. We don't think it did before but we only got it Friday so not sure.

Alan...

[Phaeton]

Well 1st dry day or at least a couple of hours as it's raining again now, looks like my 'sedate' problem is the carb is only opening one of the chokes, the other appears to be stuck closed. So it looks like ti needs to come off for a good clean.

Alan...