Fabia Central Locking Kit Retro-Fit Guide

DanGB · 10-06-2007, 10:23

Hi all,
I done this on my old fabia and several people have asked for instructions so I shall post it up here

Was one hell of a project, blood sweat and tears come to mind!
Would of took me about 4 whole days if i done it at once.
Theres not too much technical knowledge involved, but its more about knowing how to take things apart and how to get to certain areas ( ie; under the steering wheel - ccu/fuse box etc.

It doesnt matter what order you do it in, as the doors are seperate from the rest of the wiring loom.

I pull all the poppers off, were very tight, dont be afriad to break it, theres no other way if you do lol!

I couldnt actually get the rear door cards away from the door, they are still slotted in at the top, must be glued in or something. I just worked underneath them which was a bit annoying. front door cards came off without too much trouble.

The motors attached fine, which are you having probnlems with, front or back? ive got photos if nessecery. the top bolt on the rear door motor did seem short but in the end it was long enough, just need to fiddling to get it on, bot much room to screw it.

The trim is very tightly clipped on. they all use these metel poppers (different from the doors) which you just nee to pull really tight. Several clips broke when removing, but as long as most dont break your ok!
The B pillar is quite differcault as there are several bits of trim slotted together, like where the seat dissapears down the whole on the side. but you jusdt need to try and work out how it all fits together, just aload of pulling and tulling and swearing! ive cut my fingers and 10 times throughout the whole project lol, and there still saw, but then again im only young so still have soft hands!

Remember the ground wire that goes to the grounding bolt in the boot next to the fuel filler. Needed to fold the seats forward and remove some carpet and woodern bit along the side of the inside boot to get to it, quite a struggle. Well the whole install was quite a struggle! not for the faint hearted!

Decoding those instructions was a right job! especially when you know hardly anything about cars.

removing the part underneath the steering wheel was ok, few torx screws and the headlight switch plus to take off, then the whole under steering wheel uni just rests on the floor. t helped to positioned the steering heel at its highest position. I also removed the bit of plastic between the wheel and clear window where the dials are. Again, dont be afriad to tug and pull at parts, its designed to be strong!

You need to take the fuse box out (and back fuse box cover off) to put the two wires into it. its fits very snug into the places where it is. The instructions say put the new fuse position in position 49, but i couldnt get to it as all the other fuse wires are in the way, so i just places the new fuse position at the bottom where it was empty. To get the two red wires fully into the fuse box you need to pull out the purple tab (on the row where you are placing the fuse.) then push the purple tab back in to lock the wires you have just put in, if that makes sense.

It its easy to connect the main red power wire (thick wire with the looophole on the end) .you just take a bit of plastic to reveal about 5 major red power cables, then just attach the loophole to the wire which is shown in the diagram.

The last major bit is to attach the single thin (black/brown?) wire to the cars control unit. You need to remove the control unit (immeditaly underneath the thick red power wires) from its holster, until it hangs down. then locate the black six pin connector called XP1 (mine already had a single wire in pin noe of the XP1 connector). pull this plug out (took a bit of fiddling with fingers to get it out). Again like the fuse box you have to pull out a purple tab to get the wire in there then lock it then plug the XP1 plug back in the control unit.

Something I done wrong is those four 'two piece' connectors which attach to the motor wires. I put the two pieces of the connector togther to make up the connector then put the 4 or 2 wires in after, but you need to put the wires in the first connector bit then attach the second part the lock in the wires. If that doesnt make any sense, ignore that bit, I was being a bit stupid with it.

sorry about the bad grammer etc!
hope that helps.

FAQ

I'm stuck at removing the A pillar trim on the drivers side. I've got all the metal clip off but the bonnet release handle is stopping me removing it anymore. I can't work out how to remove the handle. Any ideas?

just pulled back the edge of the trim open by the door and stuffed the wire behind it. after half and hour and wrecked hands I was sucessful

I'm stuck again at the main red power cable. I can't find the 3 bolts with the cables attached (red power cable should attach to the one 2nd from left).
Where are these bolts?

These are located behind a small black plastic cover. this is immediatly above the ECU Unit, and next to where you put in the control locking control module.

One last hitch, how do you remove the purple tab in the XP1 unit? There is a large section but it doesn't seem to budge. I thought it would just pull out but it doesn't. It is just a case of forcing it? I don't want to break the thing now I've got this far!

I think it just pulls out, im not 100% on that but I cant think what it could do. it was a while ago now lol!

Pictures of fitted parts: Click for very large images:

jonboyuk · 10-06-2007, 14:14

Dan thanks SO much! Couple of q's, mine is actually just a remote locking kit (not the motors) so I guess that saves half of the job. Otherwise it's v.similar to yours. I need to connect the live and earth, 2 wires to the existing central locking and 2 to the indicators to show it's closed from outside.
1. Where did you earth yours?
2. I tried taking the underside of the steering wheel off last nite and I got all the torx screws out but it wouldn't quite come free and I was too nervous to pull it hard! Do I have to take any of the upper dash off to get the lower bit off i.e. the steering wheel etc?
3. Do you think I can connect to the indicators directly from the rear of the fuse box?

Thanks again Dan,
Jon

Lummox · 10-06-2007, 14:18

The indicators will need to be connected to the central electrics control unit.

jonboyuk · 10-06-2007, 23:20

Lummox, where will I find the central electrics control unit?? Under the dash?

AndyPandy · 20-07-2007, 10:24

DanGP,
there is a small self tapping screw ,under the tweeter (which clicks out) perhaps this was why you could not get the rear door card completely off. If you look at the articles on resealing the door cards , they may be pictures of where the screw is fitted. Also the card is quite a tight fit,you have to pull it upwards ,to remove it , (where the rubber sealing strip presses against the window glass.
You also need to detach the door handle operating mechanical cable .

10-06-2007, 10:23	#1
DanGB Briskodian Join Date: May 2005 Location: SE London Posts: 375	Fabia Central Locking Kit Retro-Fit Guide Hi all, I done this on my old fabia and several people have asked for instructions so I shall post it up here Was one hell of a project, blood sweat and tears come to mind! Would of took me about 4 whole days if i done it at once. Theres not too much technical knowledge involved, but its more about knowing how to take things apart and how to get to certain areas ( ie; under the steering wheel - ccu/fuse box etc. It doesnt matter what order you do it in, as the doors are seperate from the rest of the wiring loom. I pull all the poppers off, were very tight, dont be afriad to break it, theres no other way if you do lol! I couldnt actually get the rear door cards away from the door, they are still slotted in at the top, must be glued in or something. I just worked underneath them which was a bit annoying. front door cards came off without too much trouble. The motors attached fine, which are you having probnlems with, front or back? ive got photos if nessecery. the top bolt on the rear door motor did seem short but in the end it was long enough, just need to fiddling to get it on, bot much room to screw it. The trim is very tightly clipped on. they all use these metel poppers (different from the doors) which you just nee to pull really tight. Several clips broke when removing, but as long as most dont break your ok! The B pillar is quite differcault as there are several bits of trim slotted together, like where the seat dissapears down the whole on the side. but you jusdt need to try and work out how it all fits together, just aload of pulling and tulling and swearing! ive cut my fingers and 10 times throughout the whole project lol, and there still saw, but then again im only young so still have soft hands! Remember the ground wire that goes to the grounding bolt in the boot next to the fuel filler. Needed to fold the seats forward and remove some carpet and woodern bit along the side of the inside boot to get to it, quite a struggle. Well the whole install was quite a struggle! not for the faint hearted! Decoding those instructions was a right job! especially when you know hardly anything about cars. removing the part underneath the steering wheel was ok, few torx screws and the headlight switch plus to take off, then the whole under steering wheel uni just rests on the floor. t helped to positioned the steering heel at its highest position. I also removed the bit of plastic between the wheel and clear window where the dials are. Again, dont be afriad to tug and pull at parts, its designed to be strong! You need to take the fuse box out (and back fuse box cover off) to put the two wires into it. its fits very snug into the places where it is. The instructions say put the new fuse position in position 49, but i couldnt get to it as all the other fuse wires are in the way, so i just places the new fuse position at the bottom where it was empty. To get the two red wires fully into the fuse box you need to pull out the purple tab (on the row where you are placing the fuse.) then push the purple tab back in to lock the wires you have just put in, if that makes sense. It its easy to connect the main red power wire (thick wire with the looophole on the end) .you just take a bit of plastic to reveal about 5 major red power cables, then just attach the loophole to the wire which is shown in the diagram. The last major bit is to attach the single thin (black/brown?) wire to the cars control unit. You need to remove the control unit (immeditaly underneath the thick red power wires) from its holster, until it hangs down. then locate the black six pin connector called XP1 (mine already had a single wire in pin noe of the XP1 connector). pull this plug out (took a bit of fiddling with fingers to get it out). Again like the fuse box you have to pull out a purple tab to get the wire in there then lock it then plug the XP1 plug back in the control unit. Something I done wrong is those four 'two piece' connectors which attach to the motor wires. I put the two pieces of the connector togther to make up the connector then put the 4 or 2 wires in after, but you need to put the wires in the first connector bit then attach the second part the lock in the wires. If that doesnt make any sense, ignore that bit, I was being a bit stupid with it. sorry about the bad grammer etc! hope that helps. FAQ I'm stuck at removing the A pillar trim on the drivers side. I've got all the metal clip off but the bonnet release handle is stopping me removing it anymore. I can't work out how to remove the handle. Any ideas? just pulled back the edge of the trim open by the door and stuffed the wire behind it. after half and hour and wrecked hands I was sucessful I'm stuck again at the main red power cable. I can't find the 3 bolts with the cables attached (red power cable should attach to the one 2nd from left). Where are these bolts? These are located behind a small black plastic cover. this is immediatly above the ECU Unit, and next to where you put in the control locking control module. One last hitch, how do you remove the purple tab in the XP1 unit? There is a large section but it doesn't seem to budge. I thought it would just pull out but it doesn't. It is just a case of forcing it? I don't want to break the thing now I've got this far! I think it just pulls out, im not 100% on that but I cant think what it could do. it was a while ago now lol! Pictures of fitted parts: Click for very large images: __________________ Seat New Leon TFSI Sport. Tweaked OLD: Fabia 1.4 8v Last edited by DanGB; 10-06-2007 at 10:39.

10-06-2007, 14:14	#2
jonboyuk Briskodian Join Date: May 2007 Location: South West Posts: 138	Re: Fabia Central Locking Kit Retro-Fit Guide Dan thanks SO much! Couple of q's, mine is actually just a remote locking kit (not the motors) so I guess that saves half of the job. Otherwise it's v.similar to yours. I need to connect the live and earth, 2 wires to the existing central locking and 2 to the indicators to show it's closed from outside. 1. Where did you earth yours? 2. I tried taking the underside of the steering wheel off last nite and I got all the torx screws out but it wouldn't quite come free and I was too nervous to pull it hard! Do I have to take any of the upper dash off to get the lower bit off i.e. the steering wheel etc? 3. Do you think I can connect to the indicators directly from the rear of the fuse box? Thanks again Dan, Jon

10-06-2007, 14:18	#3
Lummox Hairy Yeti Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Newport Pagnell Posts: 20,195	Re: Fabia Central Locking Kit Retro-Fit Guide The indicators will need to be connected to the central electrics control unit. __________________ 1988 Golf GTi - Made up of MK2, MK3 and MK4 Golf and Corrado parts also bits of Audi TT and even Ibiza Cupra. Truly a VAG car indeed.

10-06-2007, 23:20	#4
jonboyuk Briskodian Join Date: May 2007 Location: South West Posts: 138	Re: Fabia Central Locking Kit Retro-Fit Guide Lummox, where will I find the central electrics control unit?? Under the dash?

20-07-2007, 10:24	#5
AndyPandy Briskodian Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: south east UK Posts: 114	Re: Fabia Central Locking Kit Retro-Fit Guide DanGP, there is a small self tapping screw ,under the tweeter (which clicks out) perhaps this was why you could not get the rear door card completely off. If you look at the articles on resealing the door cards , they may be pictures of where the screw is fitted. Also the card is quite a tight fit,you have to pull it upwards ,to remove it , (where the rubber sealing strip presses against the window glass. You also need to detach the door handle operating mechanical cable .

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