Fabia: How to fit a Jabba 23mm Anti Roll Bar

[Glider]

@WW, My ARB don't knock either, even when bouncing over kerbs, maybe want to jack it up and check bolts. Can you defo see where it's rubbng.

[Mort]

Decided to put mine on today, as long as it gets a little warmer. Two questions though:

I don't have any lock nuts for the clips. Is it worth buying a couple before I put it on? and where do I put the lube that came with the bushes? just inside between bush and bar? or should it go between the bush and the metal 'V' as well?

Also, can this be done on portable ramps rather than jacking it up?

Cheers,

[WW_VRS]

Will check with Stu when next down on Tuesday, hopefully we can work out how to silence the blasted thing

[Glider]

Mort you don't need locknuts as they are a cam type nut that are supplied with the kit and it cant slip,
The lub is for the bush ( rubber bit) but worthwhile putting some on the lower suspension bolts when you have them out, and the threads on the clamps to stop every thing rusting.

[VRStu]

Following on from Tom's lead I had mine Shot Blasted, Zinc Primed and Powder Coated in Matt Black to match the beam.

Fitted it this morning (before the rain) and made a few observations.

I think it is critical to ensure that the car is on level ground and that the rear beam is supported in it's normal road going position. So this means that if you don't have access to a 2/4 post lift or pit and you will be jacking the car up you will need to support it on the rear beam using axle stands. This should not be in the middle of the beam but on the outer edges, I used an area near the spring cup. The car should be fully lowered onto the stands.

When done in this way the bar does in fact sit clear of the lower spring cup when fitted. I experimented by slightly jacking the front whilst the rear was supported as described above and found it does make a huge difference.

Tom - I would suggest that you loosen your lower shock absorber mounts and allow the bar to settle before re-tightening. Yours does look 'lop-sided' in the pictures.

As mine was secondhand I didn't have the supplied lubricant so I used a small amount of copper grease on the inside and some silicone spray on the outside.

I also had a slight problem with the silcone mounts opening up as the cut to allow fitting was in the flat part the fits to the beam. Every time I tried to tighten the strap it pushed them open. This was easily cured by putting a couple of cable ties on the outer edges of the silcone mounts to hold them together.

Unfortunately no pictures this time people but I have a sneaking suspicion that someone will want the other one that's in my garage refitted to his car shortly.

For those that don't yet have any I would highly recommend you get yourself down to Halfrauds and take advantage of the 3 for 2 offer on lubricant sprays thay have. The silicone is ideal for rubber stuff and the copper grease is ideal for all sorts of jobs including a light coating on those troublesome hub/wheel interfaces.

[WW_VRS]

@Stu - yep that would be correct, the car just feels wrong without it

Did you find yours knocked at all, as I'm getting concerned mine isn't quite right -

will bring the camera along when we do mine, it's likely to be a little while due to a very busy looking schedule at work next week

Let's hope we can find that annoying noise at the front of the car as well though, as it's driving me nutz

[devonutopia]

Mine's been getting some abuse.

Following my crash I've been a little cautious with my cornering but have recently found more confidence in throwing it around bends. Found a roundabout near me can now be taken at 30mph in 3rd, rather than 20mph in 2nd, and I turn in too much it actually digs in and steers in too. awesome!

[VRStu]

Just returned from a little drive out this eening to 'test' the new setup and I am very pleased. The car just seems flat and 'planted' into and of corners.

No obvious knocking although my car has always had a knocking from underneath which I can only assume is the exhaust. I think it may all be down to the fitting and ensuring it is done with the car on the right level.

[dino21]

Originally Posted by Tom_vRS

I bought the bar second hand and it looked a little tatty, so I had a scour on www.yell.com for local powder coaters. I got the bar shot blasted and recoated in "semi-gloss black" for the princely sum of £25.


10) Go for a drive. I guarantee the first bend taken at "spirited" pace will leave you with a smile on your face!

I am a bit of a numpty, but feel fairly competant doing such simple tasks - give it a go, but don't stretch yourself beyond your abilities.

do you feel any difference?what does it help with and what did you personaly felt what it helped to you.
thanks
ivan

[SkodiRS]

Originally Posted by homeruk187

I'm an office bod so unless it has a mouse i'm pretty much fooooked. How much woudl it cost for the bar and rough price for a mechanic to fit. I know its a difficult one but there are plenty of local garages in merseyside amd I know the ones taht dont rip you off.

My VRS is 7 days old and I know we have got good times ahead

Jabba ARB group buy now on.....check out the Promotions section.

£190 inc VAT + P&P...fitting is approx £30 IIRC.

Only 3 more people required for this to get going....once we have 10 these are then allocated as they are manufactured in batches of 10...so get your name down to avoid disappointment.

[Mort]

If you don't have one, buy one.

They are that good. No word of a lie.

And well easy to fit too! Even I did it!

[andy ellis]

On my PD100 I decided to have a little experiment last night. Perfectly round roundabout about 20m in diameter. Had it to myself so decide to try out a speed test (CG Lock fitted to drivers seat belt)

- 30mph no probs, very stable no under or oversteer even if lifting off.
- 40mph degree of body roll but still very stable
- 45mph understeering commencing (front tyres (Toyo T1-R) figthing for grip and wear on outside edge of nearside noted) but easily controllable, back off very predicatable and gentle oversteer.

Personally there was more there to be had, but
a) I was begining to feel sick!
b) 45mph is mental enough!

Not noticed any knocking even under extreme loading (phyiscal and speed bumps), so I wonder if its positioning of the bushes? Also of interest is that it seems to ride speed bumps better, smoother as if it spreading the load(?) true for both types (sausage and ravolli).

Andy

[UWO]

Where have all the pictures gone?

[corradoboy]

I bought the bar second hand and it looked a little tatty, so I had a scour on Yell.com the UK's local search engine - search for UK businesses for local powder coaters. I got the bar shot blasted and recoated in "semi-gloss black" for the princely sum of £25.



Firstly - sorry all the photos were taken after fitting.

I booked the morning off to get Jabba to fit the ARB and 312mm brakes, but unfortunately they had a mechanic off sick, so instead of wasting the morning I had a go at fitting it myself. You'll need to lay on the floor, and I found the hardboard spare wheel cover great for laying on... Admire the "action" shots... and yes I am single





HOW TO FIT IT IN 10 STEPS...

1) Jack the car up, preferrably with a trolly or bottle jack. I only had access to the Skoda jack, so after 5mins of dismantling the boot I jacked up the car at the proper point (indicated on the sill with an indentation, ensuring the jack sat over the lip as it should.



2) Support the car on an axle stand. Note, this should NOT be put on the rear beam or it will cause damage to the beam and the car will not be as stable as it should be. Also be careful not to squash brake lines etc.



I only felt it necessary to jack the one side up as it gave enough clearance to get under the car.

3) Its clear where the ARB goes, simply unbolt the lower damper mount with a 16mm socket and 16mm spanner, offer up the ARB (orientated the right way around ), and put the bolt back in and tighten finger tight.



4) Do the same on the other side...



5) Now you need to shape the clips to the rear beam. I was luck in that they had already been fitted to a vRS before... However, it just needs a bit of patience, and you are aiming for a kind of diamond shape. I wanted the nut to be easily accessible behind the beam. Get the shape as good as you can without swearing.

6) Slide the bush onto the bar, and offer up the "V" shaped metal bit that protects the bush. Put the clip over the beam to support the ARB, and fiddle about with the nuts and bolts, taking care to ensure the bolt sits in the groove in the clip, and the washer is on the right way around. Position the clip quite close to the bend in the bar. Tighten up the clip with the one nut (13mm). You will notice the clip shaping itself quite tight against the beam. When happy, put on the securing nut. Use 2 13mm spanners to tighten the nuts against each other.





7) Do the same with the second clip at the other end of the bar...

8) Tighten up the lower damper securing nuts.

9) Jack the car up, remove the axle stand, remove the jack, pack it away etc, admiring your handy work.






10) Go for a drive. I guarantee the first bend taken at "spirited" pace will leave you with a smile on your face!

I am a bit of a numpty, but feel fairly competant doing such simple tasks - give it a go, but don't stretch yourself beyond your abilities.

NB - you may find the bar quite heavy, and may benefit from an extra pair of hands to support the bar.

[jmd]

Regarding the last couple of pictures there, when I put mine on, when taking the jacks and axle stands out, the car didn't tilt to the side like that.

It was perfectly level with the car only jacked up on one side.

[VRStu]

You shouldn't fit the bar with the car lifted on one side as it introduces an 'un-natural' twist in the ARB.

The ARB should be fitted with the weight of the car on the suspension.

Fabia-vrs.com - Jabbasport Rear Anti Roll Bar

[Sonic1980]

Originally Posted by VRStu

You shouldn't fit the bar with the car lifted on one side as it introduces an 'un-natural' twist in the ARB.

The ARB should be fitted with the weight of the car on the suspension.

Fabia-vrs.com - Jabbasport Rear Anti Roll Bar

Stu's link is way better (sorry...!)

Plus - dont use the scissor jacks - they are very prone to warping etc... not good...

[Tom_vRS]

Originally Posted by Sonic1980

Stu's link is way better (sorry...!)

Plus - dont use the scissor jacks - they are very prone to warping etc... not good...

Oh, thanks!!!

I do however agree . My guide was more to show just how simple it is to fit, rather than being a professional cover-all-angles kind of guide.

However, as the 2 bushes are lubricated, the bar is free to move and settle how it wants, so I see no reason in this instance why the car needs to be level.

[Sonic1980]

Originally Posted by Tom_vRS

Oh, thanks!!!

I do however agree . My guide was more to show just how simple it is to fit, rather than being a professional cover-all-angles kind of guide.

However, as the 2 bushes are lubricated, the bar is free to move and settle how it wants, so I see no reason in this instance why the car needs to be level.

No offense intended buddy...

[Lummox]

Originally Posted by Tom_vRS

Oh, thanks!!!

I do however agree . My guide was more to show just how simple it is to fit, rather than being a professional cover-all-angles kind of guide.

However, as the 2 bushes are lubricated, the bar is free to move and settle how it wants, so I see no reason in this instance why the car needs to be level.

Its not really to do with the bushes more doing the bolts up at either end. If the beam and therefore the bar is tightened up when the beam is twisting (which is will be when its jacked up on one side) when you let it down it will twist the anti roll bar.