This is a discussion on Guide: DIY Fabia vRS Short Shifter Mod within the Technical Guides forums, part of the Skoda Model Discussion Area category; I’ve always wanted a shorter shifter throw on my vRS. The OEM shifter is too vague and takes time to ...
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| Hardcore Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bahrain
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| I’ve always wanted a shorter shifter throw on my vRS. The OEM shifter is too vague and takes time to select the right gear. Doesn’t match the vRS at all I feel. The Fabia has its own unique setup at the Tranny end, and after a very bad experience with the Dieselgeek shifter, and hearing that the B&M fit is very complex (not DIY at all!), expensive and may not work with the Fabia, I followed a guide found on vwvortex. The Fabia differs from the other VAG vehicle used in the guide mentioned above, so I thought I would put together my own for fellow Briskodians to use, should they decide to go this way. The idea of the short shifter is pretty simple – the shorter the gearknob, the less travel to fall into any one gear, albeit theoretically with more effort. So here we go: First of all place fingers on the gaiter edge, and lift up – there are two clips fore and aft that release easily. Now you can do the “Marilyn Monroe over the air vent” manoeuvre and lift the leather gaiter over the gearknob, revealing a small crimped ring on the shaft. Save yourself a lot of bother and cut the blessed thing and pull the gearknob straight off! DSC00217.JPG Now most DIY SS write-ups speak of shortening the shaft anywhere from ¾ to 1 ½ inches, with 1 inch being the average. I measured the amount of shaft that can be shortened and it measured exactly 1 inch: The amount I cut off was actually 2-3mm more, because I used a pipe-cutter and it requires a round shaft to rotate. A cut at exactly1 inch still left a bit of the channel remaining and this would not allow the pipe-cutter to rotate. The nice thing is that you can place your pipe-cutter just below where the vertical keyway/channel ends and you have it just right! Pipe-cutter at work (I suggest that you get a heavy-duty one, or have a couple of mates take turns, or maybe wear gloves. Otherwise you will get blisters!) Keep going (seems like forever!), rotate a couple of turns, tighten until there’s a sudden snap and the top of the shaft pops off cleanly! DSC00220.JPG Now you need to find a drill that is the same diameter as the shaft (12mm diameter). This is a bit bigger than most DIY drill chucks can handle, unless you find a "reduced shank" drill bit. I used a smaller drill and pressed sideways gently. Drill the gearknob from the opening below to remove the little plastic protrusion that is deep inside the handle. If you don’t the gearknob will remain at its’ original height! Be careful!! - you don't want to drill the opening any deeper at all, only remove the little plastic side protrusion. Take a look inside you'll see it clearly towards the left side of the gearknob. I didn’t want to glue the gearknob on and make it impossible to remove in the future so I drilled a 2-3mm hole as per the picture. This served as a guide to drill into the shaft and put in a small self-tapping metal screw to prevent the gearknob from rotating. You’ll notice in the pic that I shortened the plastic end by sanding it down to make sure that it all fits fine (since I went a few mm over the comfy 1 inch in shortening the shaft…) DSC00223.JPG After aligning the gearknob, and giving it a few whacks with the hand to seat it fully, a small hose clip (Jubilee clip) is used to firmly tighten the base. DSC00224.JPG Replace the leather gaiter and you’re done!! You can also use a hacksaw to cut the shaft if you want, just remember to place a clean towel so that no nasty stuff drops into the mechanism! It helps to temporarily place the hose clip you will be using on the shaft to guide your hacksaw cut. This makes sure that the end is flat and neat. The shaft is made of some bronze alloy and is a bit tough to get through.... How does it feel? Simply amazing – smooth, quick and no notchiness. The Fabia vRS should have come this way from the factory IMHO. As far as increased effort to shift - not noticeable as far as I can tell. Just solid. DSC00232.JPG The finished result! Definitely a good mod! Cheers All Bas
__________________ Fab vRS - Black Magic - PD160 intake - Forge FMIC - colour coded front grille -SLC Splitter - K&N Airfilter -SEAT Strutbrace - Jabba ARB - IC Waterspray (need to wire it in!) - 312mm TT brakes - Eibach Springs - Skoda Reversing sensors - Devonutopia Tuning (tm) Custom Exhaust (2 1/4" straight pipe) - Short shifter mod- 5 brake light mod - Helix Steel SMF + Organic Clutch + pressure plate - Peloquin LSD - TD stage 2 Hybrid - Washbrook remapped ECU - Uprated injectors - Cupra bushes -Poly-filled dogbone - Allard racepipe - Pirelli Dragons - Forge Rear Strutbrace - DIY SS upper boostpipe delete -Koni FSD's - elephant pipe CCV mod Last edited by Basil; 22-01-2007 at 15:12. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Basil For This Useful Post: | WW_VRS (24-06-2007)
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| | #2 |
| Dervlova Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Cloud cuckoo land
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| Very nice!! |
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| | #3 |
| Mongreller Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Ooo-ar, Oi be from Devonshire
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| Interesting way of doing it.
__________________ Jason - Mongrel owner! WOOOOF! Grrrrr Custom Fabia Bonnet Lifter Kits - £45! Click Me. See the mongrel's 260bhp Dyno Video! |
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| | #4 |
| Briskodaholic Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Fenland, Cambridgeshire
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| Yep, the classic way of making a short shift. Nice little write up too! |
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| | #5 |
| Escorted Estate Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Oxfordshire/Berkshire
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| Nice one I'm still pushing for getting mine fitted at the moment as I've paid for it, but you never know ![]()
__________________ WW --->> Project Journal (pic links in first post there)Lummox'/Ross thread on Unit18 Automotive progress on my car: here |
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| | #6 |
| Hardcore Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bahrain
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| Update post-mod: SWMBO was asking why I had a huge grin the whole time while driving taking the family out shopping yesterday. She had to tell me to shut up after I explained why and kept on going All shifts especially 4-5th change are rapid and smooth - no delay "rowing" the shift lever over. No notchyness at all. Changes feel far more solid. The tactile sensation is a HUGE change for the better BMW F1 driver bro-in-law says it shifts "just like a BMW" (is that a compliment???? )Having driven it now for a whole day - can't believe I did this for no more than some hard work, and the cost of a small hose clip!!! Cheers Bas
__________________ Fab vRS - Black Magic - PD160 intake - Forge FMIC - colour coded front grille -SLC Splitter - K&N Airfilter -SEAT Strutbrace - Jabba ARB - IC Waterspray (need to wire it in!) - 312mm TT brakes - Eibach Springs - Skoda Reversing sensors - Devonutopia Tuning (tm) Custom Exhaust (2 1/4" straight pipe) - Short shifter mod- 5 brake light mod - Helix Steel SMF + Organic Clutch + pressure plate - Peloquin LSD - TD stage 2 Hybrid - Washbrook remapped ECU - Uprated injectors - Cupra bushes -Poly-filled dogbone - Allard racepipe - Pirelli Dragons - Forge Rear Strutbrace - DIY SS upper boostpipe delete -Koni FSD's - elephant pipe CCV mod |
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| | #7 |
| Mongreller Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Ooo-ar, Oi be from Devonshire
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| Only thing I can see as a slight negative is the gaiter looks a little crumpled now, but then it's not exactly a thing of beauty at the normal height. This is something I shall consider pikeying next time my motor is being fettled with, ![]()
__________________ Jason - Mongrel owner! WOOOOF! Grrrrr Custom Fabia Bonnet Lifter Kits - £45! Click Me. See the mongrel's 260bhp Dyno Video! |
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| | #8 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Manchester
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| Did this last night and erm my head was not screwed on so straight. First I snapped the pipe cutter, then drilled though the top of my gear stick think I can just buy a new top bit.I am using two jubilee clips one and it does not rotate, so no drilling or sticking it on for life |
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| | #9 |
| Hardcore Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bahrain
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| Good point Jase about the crumpled looking gaiter- I arranged it a bit better after I took the pic, but it's there. I can either live with it or tighten the gaitor - it's attached by regular staples inside the base. Can't be bothered, might mess it up.... Shaun IIRC you can get the gearkn0b top decal as a separate item from Skoda, seen it listed on ETOS.... (don't have the number at the moment....) That should be enough for repairs.....
__________________ Fab vRS - Black Magic - PD160 intake - Forge FMIC - colour coded front grille -SLC Splitter - K&N Airfilter -SEAT Strutbrace - Jabba ARB - IC Waterspray (need to wire it in!) - 312mm TT brakes - Eibach Springs - Skoda Reversing sensors - Devonutopia Tuning (tm) Custom Exhaust (2 1/4" straight pipe) - Short shifter mod- 5 brake light mod - Helix Steel SMF + Organic Clutch + pressure plate - Peloquin LSD - TD stage 2 Hybrid - Washbrook remapped ECU - Uprated injectors - Cupra bushes -Poly-filled dogbone - Allard racepipe - Pirelli Dragons - Forge Rear Strutbrace - DIY SS upper boostpipe delete -Koni FSD's - elephant pipe CCV mod |
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| | #10 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Manchester
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| Ok cheers Bas Does make a differance and it feels more comfortable |
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| | #11 | |
| Briskodian Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: South East England
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| Quote:
__________________ Phil Thomas Then: Red Fabia vRS: Not quite standard .Now: White Octavia vRS: Eibachs/FSDs - Milotec B pillars - Neuspeed shifter (thanx Stu!). | |
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| | #12 |
| Hardcore Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bahrain
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| Oops, just checked the details on ETOS - Phil's right.... Sorry for my mistake mate Guide edited to prevent this happening to anyone else..... Cheers Bas
__________________ Fab vRS - Black Magic - PD160 intake - Forge FMIC - colour coded front grille -SLC Splitter - K&N Airfilter -SEAT Strutbrace - Jabba ARB - IC Waterspray (need to wire it in!) - 312mm TT brakes - Eibach Springs - Skoda Reversing sensors - Devonutopia Tuning (tm) Custom Exhaust (2 1/4" straight pipe) - Short shifter mod- 5 brake light mod - Helix Steel SMF + Organic Clutch + pressure plate - Peloquin LSD - TD stage 2 Hybrid - Washbrook remapped ECU - Uprated injectors - Cupra bushes -Poly-filled dogbone - Allard racepipe - Pirelli Dragons - Forge Rear Strutbrace - DIY SS upper boostpipe delete -Koni FSD's - elephant pipe CCV mod Last edited by Basil; 22-01-2007 at 15:13. |
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| | #13 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Manchester
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| | #14 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Newcastle
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| | #15 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Wirral
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| I did this mod the other day too, mine's just a pd100 but what a difference The only thing I did differently was instesad of drilling out the gear **** I carried the groove on in the gear stick with a grinder .The grinder was the perfect width for the job. Only thing is, do you risk setting your car on fire to save some effort in drilling the gear **** ![]() |
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| | #16 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Notts
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| Just done this mod on my vrs. It works spot on. The shift is obviously shorter, but the real difference is now how positive the shift feels. The look is much improved aswell. I was able to re-use the metal crimp ring that holds the kn0b on by opening it up with a screwdriver and then recrimping with nail pincers on re-assembly. I did need to use a small self tapper to stop the gear kn0b rotating. All in all a great mod that hasn't cost a penny, cheers Bas
__________________ Rich - Black Magic Fabia vRS |
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| | #17 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: United Arab Emirates
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| Just came across this....that's a cool mod! But you know, a couple of months ago with my car I also felt that the shift throw was too long, so I've started shifting the gear stick from the middle and below instead of holding on the actual gear ****....makes a difference too! ![]()
__________________ Milton Kyvernitis Private Government |
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| | #18 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Liverpool
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| what a good tutorial looks amazing aswell going to try it when i purchase my new VRS nex week
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| | #19 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Liverpool
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| have u got any pictures of the inside of the gear **** so i can see the little plastic bit i need to drill before doing it Thanks
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| | #20 |
| Hardcore Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bahrain
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| Too difficult to photograph - just poke a finger down the kn0b itself where the shaft goes in and you'll feel a plastic intrusion ridge 2mm high about 4-5mm long near the far end - this is the thing that has to be removed. Until you do, the kn0b will not sseat properly.... Good luck!
__________________ Fab vRS - Black Magic - PD160 intake - Forge FMIC - colour coded front grille -SLC Splitter - K&N Airfilter -SEAT Strutbrace - Jabba ARB - IC Waterspray (need to wire it in!) - 312mm TT brakes - Eibach Springs - Skoda Reversing sensors - Devonutopia Tuning (tm) Custom Exhaust (2 1/4" straight pipe) - Short shifter mod- 5 brake light mod - Helix Steel SMF + Organic Clutch + pressure plate - Peloquin LSD - TD stage 2 Hybrid - Washbrook remapped ECU - Uprated injectors - Cupra bushes -Poly-filled dogbone - Allard racepipe - Pirelli Dragons - Forge Rear Strutbrace - DIY SS upper boostpipe delete -Koni FSD's - elephant pipe CCV mod |
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