OCTAVIA: Fitting an alarm with existing remote central locking guide

[GamezBond]

Here is what I did. Please follow these instructions for OCTAVIA as I am not sure if Fabia etc follow the same colours and pin numbers etc. Mine is a 2.0 petrol Model engine code AQY. year 2000 (X-reg).

you will have to take off the driver side foot well bottom fascias/cover. Be careful not to damage anything.
Also separate the fuse box from this fascia by undoing the two screws that hold the fuse box to the fascia. Then unplug all connectors including the light switch, light adjustment switch, and the OBD diagnostics connector at the bottom. For this please follow the excellent instructions written and attached by JonBoy ( Many thanks mate).
You can then undo the two screws holding the Central Convenience Module (CCM) which is located just under the speedo. It is a black colour box with two set of connectors in my case and you will find it if you look upwards from the drivers footwell.

Alarm Central Unit position: positioned behind the central console, towards the driver side. I found a nice little gap there, perfect for the alarm centre module.
Power Supply to the alarm (+ve input): If you take off the plastic covers in the drivers footwell, you will see a set of relays there. One of them says +30 and has a nice nut and bolt there, I connected the alarm power supply +ve wire here.
Ground supply to the alarm (input): I connected the ground supply to one of the two screws that hold the Central Convenience Module (CCM). The CCM is also referred to as ZV or ZM module in some of the references I saw. Alternative is to connect to the BROWN wire at the pin 23 of the CCM module.
Ignition Wire (input): I personally connected to the first relay starting from the left. I think its marked 70 or 73 or 74 ( Please let me know if any one needs me to check this if you dont find it). When checking with a multimeter, this will show +12V when ignition is turned ON. An alternative is to connect to the BLACK/WHITE wire at pin 5 or YELLOW/RED wire at position 3 of the CCM module.
Direction Indicators(Output):Connect to the BLACK/WHITE and BLACK/GREEN wires in the 2nd connector on the CCM module. An alternative is to connect to the same colour wires directly at the back of the Hazard Light switch. This switch can be prised out by using a thin flat blade screw driver carefully so not to mark the plastics around it. The Skoda badge around the hazard light switch has to come out first, and has four clips that can easily be prised off. They are locxated on the left and right side of the Octavia badge (2 each side). Then the switch itself can also be prised off using the same method.
Doors Open Switch (input):Connected to BLUE/BROWN wire at pin 13 of the CCM main connector. An alternative is to connect to the BROWN/BLUE wire (I am a little unsure of the colours on this one so please check with a multimter) going to the interior light. This wire can be found in the driver side pillar A. Becareful when taking the plastic cover off the pillar. Start pulling the cover from the top and pull in parallel direction to the wind screen. when you reach the bottom, dont pull, it just lifts off.
Boot Open Switch (input): Connect to the BROWN/BLACK wire at pin 15 of the CCM module. Alternative is to check and connect at the boot light.

Now comes the part I spent most time on (3 evenings):
Central Door Locking Connections (output): The Octavia has a Negative Signal Controlled Locking type 2 (Thanks JonBoy).
For this one I had to take the door trim/cover (not the waterproof membrane) off completely. Before you take the door trim off prise off the tweeter cover. It comes off easily when carefully using a flat head screw driver. Take care not to break any of the two plastic legs/pins. (let me know if you need more info about how to take the door trim off)
Once the door cover is off, look for a bunch of wires going to the actual door lock motor. The motor is located towards the external door open handle. These wires travel from the front end of the door to the door lock motor. Follow this bunch of wires and open the waterproof membrane carefully from the top, almost in the middle of the door, near where the internal door open handle goes normally. If you can get hold of double sided tape, then you can use that when you need to close the membrane at the end of this procedure. Once you have access to this bunch of wires coming directly from the door lock motor, undo a little bit of the cloth tape around the wires. Now look for WHITE/YELLOW (for locking) and BLACK/YELLOW (for unlocking). Now I routed two wires starting from inside the vehicle in the drivers footwell. I took off the bottom plastic cover around the Bonet Open Handle. This comes off by first taking off a small rectangular cover using a flat head small screw driver at the bottom of this cover. You will see two screws behind this small cover. Undo them both. Then undo the top two screws near the Bonet open handle and the cover will come off. Then route two wires from this end, through the rubber gaitor/cover and then into the door. I prefer to use a white and a black wire to remember in case I forget. You might have to take off one end of the rubber gaitor to feed the wires into the door. Fitting the rubber cover can be a bit fiddly, but I got it done after fiddling for about 5 minutes. Make sure that it is seated properly to make a good seal and that the creases on this rubber cover don’t look squashed etc and look like they used to look before removing J
Then connect these two wires to the wires you found in the door. Seal all the joints etc. Seal the membrane with double sided tape, or soft insulation tape. I took this opportunity to repair all previously made holes/rips too with a clear plastic tape.
I tested the connecteions by first checking with a multimeter, and then connecting them one by one to the earth. Each one should lock/unlock when an earth is applied.
Then put the door trim back on, remember to attach these connectors back again if you haven’t done that already:
· Bottom door light connector.
· Side mirrors adjuster connector.
· Window/locking switches connector.
· Door open handle pull wire which hooks on to the door handle.
· Insert the LED into the top of the door. And then finally insert the door lock **** (which moves up and down) in the hole.

After the door trim is fitted, connect these two wires to the appropriate wires on your alarm. You may need to check in your alarm manual on how to connect a Negative trigger type central locking with separate lock and unlock (negative triggered) signal.

Electric Windows (output): Octavia has comfort windows. Which means it is capable of shutting down all windows when locking the car. Jacko this bit may help for you. The best thing about this feature is that you don’t need to do much, because you have already done it in case you haven’t realsed this already J.
The wire for locking the door locks (WHITE/YELLOW that you connected earlier inside the door, is the same wire used for closing all windows. You may need to adjust the “Power Windows” timer/settings in your alarm. For this please refer to your alarm user guide. Basically you will need a negative output triggered for a length of time enough to close all windows.

That’s all. I have done it myself last night, so I can safely say it works. My instructions may not be very comprehensive so please give me a shout if more information is needed.

Many thanks to all who provided help for me to start and carry on

[VRSPhil]

I thought the convenience module ran at 5 or 5.5 volts rather than 12? So surely you can't take power from it?

[GamezBond]

Originally Posted by VRSPhil

I thought the convenience module ran at 5 or 5.5 volts rather than 12? So surely you can't take power from it?

Hmm, the 12v was definitely present at the CCM. even the two indicator wires have 12 volts on them when they are flashing.
I will try and take pics of my CCM as it may be different from the later models, as mine is a Year 2000. Mine has two separate connectors. one of which has the connections for windows etc, and the other connector has the flashers.
Is the CCM on VRs same? (I assume you have a VRS from your nick )

[VRSPhil]

Originally Posted by GamezBond

Hmm, the 12v was definitely present at the CCM. even the two indicator wires have 12 volts on them when they are flashing.
I will try and take pics of my CCM as it may be different from the later models, as mine is a Year 2000. Mine has two separate connectors. one of which has the connections for windows etc, and the other connector has the flashers.
Is the CCM on VRs same? (I assume you have a VRS from your nick )

Hmm, I'm not sure to be honest. I have just been informed by my dealer that the CCM on my car has been fried by somebody using it as a power source for something at some stage during the car's life. Whoever made the connection had crimped a wire onto one of the CCM wires and left bare metal The bare wire touched the metal bracket on which the CCM is mounted and shorted . We don't know what the wire was connected to (whatever it was is now gone) but whilst we were on the subject, I was told that the CCM runs at 5 or 5.5v (I forget which) and that it was pointless connecting to it anyway. I don't have any other knowledge than that so it could be that the dealer has suspected that it was me who had made the connection and was trying to put me off doing it again, despite me telling them that I have never been near the CCM .

Here is a pic of my unit, it sounds similar to yours...

[GamezBond]

Sorry to hear about your CCM mate. In the light of your information, i suggest not to use the CCM as a power supply and use the first option that I am using. I will try and edit the guide just to be on the safe side. Thanks for the tip.

Just out of interest, did you have to pay for a new CCM, and if yes then how much did it set you back?