has any one had ant trouble fitting new cd player in felicia n reg took out the original cassette and radio colours what a joke fitted new working great then switch on lights cd turn off then found brown earth workrd great why is the yellow earth there as well bought this car last week great condition ladys for the last 6 years has done 35 thousand from new thx

sounds to me like you've wired it up wrong..

the wiring loom colours differ slightly to the standard iso specification, unfortunately there is no swiched ignition feed in the radio loom on a felicia or favorit, you need to connect the yellow +12v and the red +12v wire from your new radio to the red wire in the felicia loom

red = permanent live

brown = earth

black = aerial amplifier feed (not used on most aftermarket radio's)

yellow = interior lighting feed (goes live when you turn the sidelights on)

if in doubt get an auto electrician to wire it up for you

hi there,

sorry to dig up such an old post but i have a similar issue, i have just bought a 2000 felicia estate with the 1.6 AEE engine (i'm good with this engine having had one in a mk3 golf for years) which came with an aftermarket alpine cd/radio head unit.

the HU works ok but ideally i'd like it to power on/off with the key in the ignition - i assume this isnt possible without a switched 12v wire?

currently the harness which its hooked up to has the red (12v perm) jumped to the 12v switched connector so it effectively has 2x 12v perm inputs. on the plus side it works, on the down side it seems to draw power continually and today it had managed to drain the battery which wasnt good.

is there any way to change this? the HU is fine, but i'd like it so that it will power on when i put the key in the ignition and will switch off as soon as i withdraw the key. if this cant be done then how can i rewire it so it doesnt continually draw current and flatten my battery?

i have seen people saying you can run a line from the sidelight switch on the dashboard to the switched 12v which has the desired result - is this correct?

i had assumed that the red was 12v perm; yellow was 12v switched; brown was earth; and black was redundant - the way it was in my old golf; evidently not!

just to check though, if i wire the yellow wire (on car)to the 12v switched (on harness)would it work, provided i had the sidelights on? and if i did this would it get around the battery draining issue?

finally, did any felicia's come with a CD/radio as standard fitment? if so, how did these get around the battery draining issue without a switched 12v feed?

thanks guys

DKM

hi there just find a switched live like i did or put it on a switch

hi,

where did you take the switched live from on yours? what lines can I use? does it involve removal of the dash or is there a switched live easily accessible?

thanks

DKM

Yes there are numerous places you can take a switched live from, personally I would take it from the fusebox to do a proper job of it.

For mine I got another dashboard switch (heated window button) and put it at far end of the buttons away from the rest.

The perm live is always there and switched goes up to the switch and back to radio. Works like a charm and hasn't killed the battery since!

Thanks Lee and Tom,

re taking a line from the fusebox, how would I go about this? and what ampage fuse should i use? will 3A be ok? i know that even when its on the HU doesnt draw much current but not quite sure how much.

re fitting a new switch to the row in the top centre of the dash, i assume the blank buttons just pop off? if i did this i'd have a push button to get 12v yes? and i should wire it from the fusebox via the new switch then into a spade connector in the HU wiring harness?

thanks guys, i just want to be absolutely clear about the right way to do this before i start.

DKM

Thanks Lee and Tom,

re taking a line from the fusebox, how would I go about this? and what ampage fuse should i use? will 3A be ok? i know that even when its on the HU doesnt draw much current but not quite sure how much.

re fitting a new switch to the row in the top centre of the dash, i assume the blank buttons just pop off? if i did this i'd have a push button to get 12v yes? and i should wire it from the fusebox via the new switch then into a spade connector in the HU wiring harness?

thanks guys, i just want to be absolutely clear about the right way to do this before i start.

DKM

the blanks do just come out. You can wiggle the end ones off with your finger and then get your finger beside the bigger blank and it slides out with hardly much effort at all. They are only clipped in place. A push button does control your 12v live yes. Exactly like pressing one of the other buttons (but moved away so it doesn't look like the rest even though it has the heated window picture!)

Wiring it is purely up to you and what you think is best... Mine is the same wire that comes from the fusebox to power the radio before and has a switch in the middle and so far it has been reliable and allowed me a charged battery! (Unlike my last HU that killed my battery in a week with permalive and not ignition control)

---------- <-- before

---/SW/----- <- After

The felicia could benefit with an accessory position on the key!

Hi Lee,

ah cool yes i see what you mean, use the same circuit but just fit an in-line switch. sounds like its probably the easiest option!

just a thought, does it automatically kill the circuit when you turn the ignition off, or do you have to remember to switch it to the 'off' position when you turn the ignition off? for example the buzzer sounds if you leave the sidelights on and try and get out the car, but with this switch arrangement for the HU it obviously wouldnt light up the dash or make any noise to advise the circuit is still live if you forgot to turn it off would it? also i assume it doesnt 'remember' the radio settings if you do it this way?

sorry to keep asking questions!

DKM

Hi Lee,

ah cool yes i see what you mean, use the same circuit but just fit an in-line switch. sounds like its probably the easiest option!

just a thought, does it automatically kill the circuit when you turn the ignition off, or do you have to remember to switch it to the 'off' position when you turn the ignition off? for example the buzzer sounds if you leave the sidelights on and try and get out the car, but with this switch arrangement for the HU it obviously wouldnt light up the dash or make any noise to advise the circuit is still live if you forgot to turn it off would it? also i assume it doesnt 'remember' the radio settings if you do it this way?

sorry to keep asking questions!

DKM

The ignition doesn't affect the circuit at all and that is how it was always setup even with the stock HU in the car. Like leaving the lights on and turing them off after ignition... just have to remember to press the radio button but its hard to forget when the radio is playing when you leave the car! I rarely have the radio on stand-by. If I'm done listening and want silence I just hit the button.

It wouldn't make a noise.. you could do it if you want but it would take wiring from the ignition switch and the permlive and a relay etc etc and thats more effort than it's worth? You could always get a switch with a bulb, that isn't a stock switch and it lights up when turned on so you wouldn't forget?

My setup it does remember the memory settings as there is still a memory permlive... and the wire was cut to stop the jump cable that was originally there and this goes through the switch

Lee.

Hi Lee,

ok i understand now, so you have one line for the memory 12v perm live and a second switched circuit for what the HU expects to be 12v switched, right? so you are saying that you never use the power button on the HU, just the push-button on the dashboard right?

I have one wire which is 12v perm live which is jumped to the 12v switched on the ISO harness, do you suggest that i cut this jumped cable and wire the switch into it on the dashboard? that way when the switch is in the 'off' position the HU will only draw the tiny current to keep the memory settings, and when the switch is in the 'on' position the stereo will power up - correct?

yeah i dont fancy going mad and fitting a buzzer, it would probably send me over the edge with the lights AND stereo buzzers going off at the same time!

DKM

hi i got switched live from fuse box where my electric window wire goes but you could get it from back off barrol and it was the black wirer ones can just put a spade on there two 10amp fuse i used

Hi Lee,

ok i understand now, so you have one line for the memory 12v perm live and a second switched circuit for what the HU expects to be 12v switched, right? so you are saying that you never use the power button on the HU, just the push-button on the dashboard right?

I have one wire which is 12v perm live which is jumped to the 12v switched on the ISO harness, do you suggest that i cut this jumped cable and wire the switch into it on the dashboard? that way when the switch is in the 'off' position the HU will only draw the tiny current to keep the memory settings, and when the switch is in the 'on' position the stereo will power up - correct?

yeah i dont fancy going mad and fitting a buzzer, it would probably send me over the edge with the lights AND stereo buzzers going off at the same time!

DKM

I have the 1 permlive that was already attached going into the permlive for the memory and I have cut this to also add a switched live to the radios power socket (I believe the 2 holes are position 4 and 7, but don't quote me on that, use the haynes WD)

The HU draws what it needs for the memory so I can keep my presents and my current playing when I turn it off and when I turn it on it resumes from where it was like I just turned the ignition on.

Here is a pic of my setup (I thought it was a heater picture on the button but it is actually the sidelight button )

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14698947/Briskoda/photo.JPG

Edited 23 January, 201214 yr by Lee A

Hi Lee,

excellent pic, thanks for that! i think i'll go down this route for now as i dont really want to fiddle with the ignition wiring. worst case scenario is i break my cd player this way, i'd rather not risk immobilising the whole car!

one last question - what are the connectors in the back of the switches like? how do you attach the wire? is it a clip, soldered, terminal block or something else?

thanks again

DKM

Hi Lee,

excellent pic, thanks for that! i think i'll go down this route for now as i dont really want to fiddle with the ignition wiring. worst case scenario is i break my cd player this way, i'd rather not risk immobilising the whole car!

one last question - what are the connectors in the back of the switches like? how do you attach the wire? is it a clip, soldered, terminal block or something else?

thanks again

DKM

The connectors are just like that on the back of a relay. And mine are attached with the connectors that you would use on a relay that isn't in the fuse box and this also makes it removable. The switch I use has a blown bulb so it doesn't light up at all (not a problem for me) but if you have one with a working bulb it will be lit-up all the time! (atleast I think it will) There are 4 terminals on the back of the switch and I just connected 2 terminals (with a multimetre) and it turned it on and off but I do think it had a blown bulb.

Just probe the wires behind the switches or in the puse box with a multi meter and then you could use a skotchlock or other type of easy connector (I know they have their haters but for the small current they will be fine)

3 amp inline fuse with holder would be fine unless its some fancy tv screen or something.

nothing fancy, just a basic CD/Radio head unit. i was tempted to do that but read the horror stories about scotch-locks and was put off.

I have a spare 3a inline fuse i can fit so might see if i can find anything promising with the multi-meter...

DKM

If you can wait till next weekend dkm, I'll come round and help you seeing as you are only in Portsmouth. I'm sure it will take all of 10 minuites to sort it out

Hi Tom,

thanks for the offer but i'm afriad i'm away until tuesday, if I havent got it sorted by the following weekend i'd be grateful for the help! i'm more than happy to oblige with beer tokens

DKM

hi guys,

all sorted now, i found a switched 12v feed in the fusebox where a relay would go. i'm not sure what relay should be in there but it gives 0v at position 1, then 12v at position 2 which drops to 0.04v after about 3 seconds which is no use, but gives 12v when the engine is running which is fine for me.

basically the readio now switches on on off with the engine, and doesnt drain my battery any more. we fitted an in-line 5a fuse for safety and it seems fine now.

thanks all for your helpful pointers, my felly is looking good now - just the MOT to worry about now!

DKM