Hi!

The car (Fabia 1.4 16V 75bhp) has been resting in garage for 6 months, it hasn't been started once during this period as I read somewhere it's better to leave it during the storage. Now I'd like to bring it back from storage in a professional way.

I already changed the battery (it was 6 years old anyway, and became dead). I will also change the sparkplugs (I think they are still the originals), and change the oil. But before this, I would like to start the engine and drive the car just a little (at least the oil needs to be warm to be changed).

Should I take the extra steps to lubricate the cylinders with some lubricant through spark plug holes (and probably change spark plugs at the same time)? And then turn over the engine over a few times without starting it (with coils removed maybe) thus build up oil pressure. I've read this is the decent procedure to avoid potential damage to piston ring and cylinder walls. Or should I just simply start the engine straight away?

What stuff would you recommend to spray the cylinders through spark plug holes? And what ways are there to turn the engine over without actually starting it? (I'm quite a beginner in servicing the car myself, but would like to catch up.)

Thanks!

I'd consider a tiny bit of oil down the plug holes when you change them, but not much, and cranking the engine for a few turns with no ignition (maybe by connecting a wire directly to the starter solenoid?) to pump some oil around.

Once you have it started, have a gentle drive straight away. Test the brakes!

Thx for answering.

You mean that a straight wire from the battery to the electric starter? I think there are more simple ways to do that. Isn't there a fuse that can disable the ignition or the injectors, maybe? That would be the easiest way to turn the engine over without starting it if someone could reflect on this.

A third way could be removing the coils from the spark plugs. Which is the best method of the above?

unplug the crank sensor and hall effect switch and turn it over on the starter... it wont fire... dont bother lubricating the cylinders, it will do more harm than good

On my previous car I would remove the coil lead and earth it, then spin the engine to make sure you get oil pressure, if mechanical diesel remove stop solenoid wire and do the same thing. So on your car I would do what Tom suggests, I don't know whether this would cause a fault code to be stored and management lights to stay on. Possibly put a start/charger on the battery to help it, although yours is a new one so it shouldn't need it.

unplug the crank sensor and hall effect switch and turn it over on the starter... it wont fire... dont bother lubricating the cylinders, it will do more harm than good

Ok, so lubricating cylinders is no good. Why is that anyway? I thought the cylinder walls are bone dry after 6 months. Maybe they're already bone dry after 1 month?

I'll take a look under the engine cover today to locate the crank sensor and the hall sensor. Do they actually measure the position (crack sensor) and rpm (hall sensor) of the crankshaft, and located somewhere on engine block?

on the 16v unit, the plug for the crank sensor is underneath the thermostat housing( on side of cylinder head , gearbox end), the hall sender is on top of the cam cover...

ref lubing cylinders: what so you think will happen to the oil/lube?? i reckons it will just get burnt or foul up the spark plugs

on the 16v unit, the plug for the crank sensor is underneath the thermostat housing( on side of cylinder head , gearbox end), the hall sender is on top of the cam cover...

ref lubing cylinders: what so you think will happen to the oil/lube?? i reckons it will just get burnt or foul up the spark plugs

Definitely if you overdo it. I reckon a small amount might be beneficial during the cranking without fuel/ignition.

As to the wire to the solenoid, it was a suggestion if the starter is accessible and you don't know where the sensors are to disable fuel and/or ignition. It's impractical on some cars, easy on others.

To be honest I'd only change the oil and plugs if they needed doing i.e. if it were due a service. Otherwise I'd just clean the plugs and then fire her up - don't worry about specifically changing the oil just cause it's been standing 6 months.

Just leave her idle for 5 - 10 mins to let the oil circulate around the engine before taking her for a spin. The camshaft might sound a bit noisy at first but it will be fine after a few mins.

I'd also recommend a general check around the car including, tires, coolant & oil levels, lights and switches. And as has already been mentioned, test the brakes a few times down the road in order to get rid of any rust or carp.

Just crank it up...

Just crank it up...

i must say basil, that this is probably what i'd do too, i wouldnt bother going to all the balls ache of bringing up the oil pressure etc

i agree. its a modern car and 6 months dry stored is fine and should be no issue. id just check the levils are correct and let it idle for 5 or 10 mins after starting then go for a gentle drive. job done.

on the 16v unit, the plug for the crank sensor is underneath the thermostat housing( on side of cylinder head , gearbox end), the hall sender is on top of the cam cover...

ref lubing cylinders: what so you think will happen to the oil/lube?? i reckons it will just get burnt or foul up the spark plugs

Thanks for the answers for all of you!

I removed engine cover and made some pics, enumerated the plugs (sensors) I could find. Could you just point out which number belongs to the crank sensor and hall sensor? (And maybe what are the other ones?)

So I probably won't do the lubrication through plug holes, as I'm quite uncertain about the technique of how to evenly spread oil on the cylinder wall without overfilling (spraying oil?).

To crank without starting: if it's easy to carry out (unplug 2 sensors) and won't do any harm, I will probably try it. BTW, through VAGCOM or by removing some fuses isn't it possible to achieve the same?

Concerning other maintenance tasks: After car starts OK, later I'll change spark plugs and oil, I'll clean throttle body (I remember idling was not perfectly even), and I also had experienced the momentary engine cut out on highway problem discussed in other threads that was traced down to be the coolant temp sensor or EGR pipe clogging. That also needs sorting out.

Anyone would think your attempting to start the starship enterprise.

Loads of "new" cars spend anyting upto 18 months in fields and in compounds. I dont think they strip them down before starting.

Just stick the key in the ignition and turn.

Let it idle for a minute before moving off.

The only one there I can help with is '3'; which is your EGR valve.

I agree with the "just start it and let it idle for a few minutes" school.

When you do drive it watch out for the brakes - most likely problem will be the disc brakes sticking on after they've been used a few times, but after 6 months I wouldn't think you will have too many problems.

The only one there I can help with is '3'; which is your EGR valve.

Yes, number 3 must be EGR valve, because it has an outgoing metal pipe which (I think) goes under the throttle body.

I guess number 2 is the coolant temp sensor and it is attached to the thermostat. Is that true?

What is number 1 and 6 ? Can anyone tell?

Thx

I add two more pictures to complete all the sensors I could find.

I guess numero 7 is the O2 sensor (lambda sensor), it's on the exhaust pipe.

What is on the other pic (number 8)?

Thx

Yes number 7 is Lambda probe "bank 1 S1" in VAG COM speak!.

Just charge the bettery and crank away, most new cars are sat in the airfields for months, maybe upto 2 years and just started when needed.

Our old 1960 mini was sat in a garage for 15 years......fuel in, battery charged, cranked away and it fired up no problems...