Oct II - Whiteline WALK install guide

[Hauptmann]

The Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit ('WALK') for the Octavia II consists of a pair of modified rear bushes/bush holder for the front suspension track arm ("lower wishbone") which replace the originals. Its an easy DIY install if you have a decent jack and some basic tools.

The kit comes with an instruction sheet (see here for a copy: http://www.globalperformanceparts.com/store/downloadfile/id/433/ ) - but its quite basic and my notes may help. Fitting took me about 1/2 hour each side (although I do have a well-equipped workshop).

You will require:

1/2" drive sockets - 16mm and 18mm

Breaker bar

Torque wrench

A press is not required.

Ideally you should replace all the fasteners removed during the job - the complete set will cost about £12 from the dealer.

1. Slacken road wheel bolts.

2. Raise car, remove wheel, and make safe with axle stand under the sill.

3. Remove the engine undertray (four Torx screws on each side, and three at the back edge).

4. Undo the three nuts holding the strut bottom balljoint to the track arm (16mm).

5. Undo the horizontal bolt which locates the track arm front bush in the subframe (18mm).

6. Undo the three bolts holding the rear bush carrier to the subframe/body (18mm bolt at the outside edge and 2x 16mm bolts on the inner side).

7. The track arm should now drop free. There is no need to support the strut.

8. Remove OE rear bush from track arm - to do this:

(i) Spray a little thin oil (penetrating oil or silicone spray) around the hex pin where it goes into the rubber bush.

(ii)Stand the track arm upright with the bush carrier on the floor, put your feet each side of the carrier to keep it still and wriggle and pull up on the arm. Mine pulled free after about 30 seconds - they are not a very tight fit.

9. Now prepare the Whiteline bush. The bush comes as two components (this may not be obvious) premounted in the alloy bush holder. Push out the inner part of the bush (the part with the hex centre) and liberally lubricate its outer surface with the supplied grease, leaving plenty in the slots. Reassemble the bush.

10. Push the complete bush assembly onto the hex pin.

11. Offer up the track arm to the subframe, inserting the (horizontal) front bush bolt and loosely do it up.

12. Now install the three bolts which secure the rear bush carrier to the subframe/chassis. You will have to push forward very firmly on the carrier to get the bolt holes to line up - so be sure that the car is firmly supported. Gently nip up the bolts - *** take great care not to cross-thread - they should start by hand ***.

13. Now install the strut back into the track arm. You will have to push forward and pull slightly outwards on the strut before the bottom joint's studs drop through the holes in the track arm. Install three new nuts and torque to 60Nm (16mm socket).

14. Install the road wheels and torque wheel bolts to 120Nm.

15. Lower the car to the ground and bounce the front of the car to settle the suspension. Torque up the track arm fasteners - first the front bush bolt (18mm) 70Nm+90 deg. Rear bush outer bolt (18mm) 70Nm+90 deg. Rear bush inner bolts (16mm) 50Nm+90deg.

Finally you can road test the car and after driving a few miles (to allow everything to settle) re-check your work and have a wheel alignment done.

Edited 13 September, 2009 by Hauptmann

[hcm2009]

Thanks for the post

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[safetyman]

Hello from Australia,

Just fitted this kit.

Absolutely amazing! This has transformed the car. Can't believe it didn't come like this from the factory.

As for the fitting, I have a suggestion which I came across when replacing lower control arm bushes on my 9N3 Polo.

Instead of removing the entire control arm, requiring the replacement of a multitude of stretch bolts, I:

Removal

Removed the 3 bolts holding the original control arm mount

Applied some degreaser to the spigot

Attached a ratchet tie down strap connected to the exhaust brace (?) under the centre of the car.

Ratcheted the strap tight a couple of turns the constant pressure popped it off.

Used a lever to tilt the contro arm down enough to remove the original bracket

Fitting

The reverse of the above but this time using the front of the control arm as the point to hook the ratchet tie downs to pull the new bush onto the spigot.

Took it for a wheel alignment but not required as none of the original alignment bolts had been touched.

Hope this helps!

[VRS_Dan]

Is this information still current as the new instructions do not say to remove the wheels etc?

 

Where would you put an axle stand to do this?

[VRS_Dan]

Anyone????

[fuey]

Anyone got the link???