Have Mine Sorted For A Fraction Of The Cost

All I'l Say Is "Custom Code & Milltek Think They Have A Manopoly On The DPF Issue . . .. . Most Definetly Not !! "

By Selling The Replacement Pipe Along With A Remap, These Two Companies Think They Have It Sown Up...

Yesterday I Had My Car Remapped & Adjusted To Avoid Looking For DPF Backpressure.

The same indiviudal maps racing cars throughout ROI & UK and was refused by Milltek to be able to purchase a replacement pipe on it's own as they had signed an exclustivity deal with custom codes over the DPF issue.

So i said fair enough , i'll sort it myself and Milltek can stick their poxy pipe up their own pipe !!

To Modify OEM DPF

Tools :

Spanners: 13mm, 17mm, 22mm

Sockets: 13mm

Allen Keys: 5mm

Torx: T30, T25, T20

4" Thin Cut Disc

Mig Welder

Hammer

Chisel

Mask

Gloves

Method:

Engine Bay

1: Remove Heat Shield Material From Around The Sensor Control Unit

2: Loosen Sensor Control Unit Via 2 T25's , this will free up room for you to work

3: Remove Sensor 1 (i.e. nearest to Turbo) 17mm Spanner

4: Remove Sensor 2 22mm Spanner

5: Loosen Sensor 3 17mm Spanner (Cannot fully remove just yet as Sensor 4 has to loosened first)

Underneath Car

6:Lossen Sensor 4 17mm Spanner (Both Sensors 3&4 can be removed)

7: Undo and remove Undertray ( this frees up a lot of room)

8: Undo the two DPF mounting bolts (located near front right drive shaft) 13mm Socket

9: Loosen exhaust joint (about two thirds back the length of the car) 13mm Spanner

Engine Bay

10: Undo Joining Clip From Turbo 5mm Allen Key (also watch for the little gasket thats inside the flange of the turbo)

11: Relocate the previously removed sensors 1,2,3 so that they are clear from the DPF when it is being removed

Removing DPF Pipe

12: If car is over a pit then jack up the front drivers side to drop the drive shaft and create more room for extraction

13: If car is on Two post lift then continue regardless, the drives will have dropped as far as they can.

Underneath Car

14: Remove DPF section By letting removing it from its mounting bracket (8: mounting bolts removed) The Pipe will now drop down into the cavity

15: Remove Section

BenchWork

16: On The surface of the DPF that faces the engine block, mark out the area for cutting. I suggest keeping this as large as possible , so i marked it approx 20mm in from either end. This will make it easier to remove the Filtering Material

17: Cut section 4" Thin Cut Disc

18: Put on mask & gloves

19: The inside of the DPF is conctructed of a porous charcoal stone like composite material. Using the Hammer And Chisel Remove the Filter. It'l take a bit of elbow grease to initially break it up, but once it starts to break up, it's easy.

20: The Inside Of the DPF will be as clean as a whistle now. Using Wire wool , clean the soot from around the inlet and make sure all loose material is removed. (I used an air line)

21: Relocate & Tac section in place

22: Mig Weld

23: Reinstall as per instructions 14 - 1

24: THEN Bring to the software technician of your choice And ask then to kindly map out the sensors

Loads More Photos But Thet are too big to upload

Then gentleman i go to not only mapped out the sensors, but remapped it properly to 210 for me at no extra cost as it only took him an extra half an hour !! He also improved the torque band making the car pull more evenly throughout the revs. 6th gear is unbelievable !!

I Cannot Recommend This Man Enough, He Is Always Over And Back Between The UK & ROI

Chipped Ireland - Homepage

Edited 17 November, 200916 yr by tom1362

Yesterday I Had My Car Remapped & Adjusted To Avoid Looking For DPF Backpressure. The Guy That Did This Has Also Cracked The CR 170 And Is The First In Both ROI & UK To Do This

That's not true, we can do both the PD and CR DPF off code

we can do both the PD and CR DPF off code

Hi There,

Nice 1,

You Can Understand Our Frustration When Milltek Refused To Sell Us The Pipe !!

Edited The Thread

I can but it surprises me to be honest.. I don't know of any exclusive agreements but I could be wrong.

JBS / Custom Code claim they have an exclusivity agreement. Funny then how P-Torque Will and others seem to have no problem getting hold of Milltek pipes. I should have asked Will about that when I was on to him the other day but I forgot.

I've just called Milltek myself to settle this. They said that they have an exclusive agreement with JBS. They also falsely claimed that nobody else offers a suitable remap to go with the part.

They also falsely claimed that nobody else offers a suitable remap to go with the part.

Do you know who told you this? :confused:

Do you know who told you this? :confused:

Sorry, no, it was a girl on 01332 227 289. I can appreciate them having a partner company they recommend for the map, but they need telling to stop stating that nobody else can do it.

All sounds very interesting; but do you really have to take the DPF off to get at the innards? Can't you open a hole in the underside of it in situ and then remove the 'filter'?

One aspect of this though is that it appears to be a 'no return' mod i.e. you will need to buy a new DPF to revert to OE spec if you want to, whereas getting a milltek (or similar) downpipe will allow you to keep the DPF to be refitted.

Worth considering. With the milltek pipe you can always flog your dpf or return the car to standard before selling it and then you can sell the milltek pipe seperately.

All sounds very interesting; but do you really have to take the DPF off to get at the innards? Can't you open a hole in the underside of it in situ and then remove the 'filter'?

In a word .. No .

Looking up from underneath you'll see that in situ, there is little room either side of the DPF itself. Its very close to the block, manifold and two aircon pipe that run behind it. You will definetly have to make room by lowering the drive shaft.

There is no room to cut a hole with a grinder or hole saw. Its tight enough to remove all the sensors with a 17 & 22 spanner because of their length.

There is definetly no room to accuratly tac and Weld the hole closed. Never mind the molten sparks from a Mig that'll do in any rubber pipe it lands on. While welding on a car in situ is possible either by disconnecting the battery or turning it on to avoid circuitry or alternator problems, i generally only keep this practice for old tractors / cars that don't have a lot of circuitry. Avoid direct welding a Fendt !!!

The composite material is so hard that you couldn't possibly have room to swing a hammer to hit the chisel hard enough.

Using the hammer and chisel in situ will damage the clip that hold the pipe onto the turbo. :(

I considered cutting it in half after taking it out , but it would be a pain in the **** to allign the oval shape up for welding so that all mounts and connections reallign up correctly once refitted. :thumbdwn:

Just cut a hole in it using a thin cut disc so there is only a small gap to seal with weld. Tac it in 4 places each side. Run a light line. Grind it down to make sure there is a good seal and no holes , and i ran another line around for good measure .

ALSO : No lights will appear, or Limp mode problems occur, so long as you re-flash the ecu within a reasonable time. about 500miles or so.

HTH

Edited 17 November, 200916 yr by tom1362

I have my CR RS remapped with DPF in place and have 200bhp and 352lb/ft of torque. If I an going to get the DPF removed and the car remapped again to take advantage of it I want to be hitting 220bhp with similar torque!

damn. VW replaced my DPF, wish id ask them to give me the knackered one

If I an going to get the DPF removed and the car remapped again to take advantage of it I want to be hitting 220bhp with similar torque!

Was told yesterday by the lads who know that "On the CR you can get 215-220 hp safely with 80 lbft extra" torque .

Thanks for sharing.

Aside from mapping out the sensors, is the ECU still requesting "DPF regeneration"?

Is the mod detectable from smoke/noise/sound/whatever?

TIA,

Thanks for sharing.

Aside from mapping out the sensors, is the ECU still requesting "DPF regeneration"?

Is the mod detectable from smoke/noise/sound/whatever?

TIA,

ECU No longer requests any Regeneration, this is what dramatically improves MPG . Both Passive and Forced Regeneration increase fuel consumtion.

There is no Smoke whatsoever, no noise from engine.

Standing behind the exhaust, there is a slightly higher tone to the exhaust. This is very slight and not noticable and due to the removal of the dense filter composite material and the now hollowness of the cavity where the filter was.

Overall, i am very pleased with the performance. The MPG has shot up, the car is so responsive.

As i said previously It was remapped to over 200bhp , and the torque band was lowered and widened, so that the torque could be used better. It's a completely different car. The torque in 5th & 6th in imense.

Great news, again.

It seems time for me to look for a proper tuner around.

Great news, again.

It seems time for me to look for a proper tuner around.

A dpf delete disables all the error codes, puts all the soot load ,time and km range regeneration to a setpoint the vehicle will never reach , so it might think about doing a regeneration in about 2 million miles time !!! It will not regenerat, or passively try to regen.

Just Out Of Curiosity, I Was Wondering, Has Anybody Else Attempted This Mod, Or A Variation Of It?

If Anyone Has AnyThing To Add , Please Do

Regards

Tom

I'm looking at doing this mod as I have managed to find a couple of DPFs to have a go at - wish me luck!!

Has anyone heard any horror stories from any particular tuners - JBS seem to have one for each of them!!?? but they would say that

Also as mentioned above, both Milltek and JBS wrongfully give the impression that JBS are the only company who can successfully DE-DPF the 170 TDI

Hmmmm

Nobody seems offering this here... as usual ages behind...

I don't know if I am being dense, but does this mean you have to do something with the DPF if you want to remap a CR? I'm thinking of having it done but getting put off by things like stupid insurance quotes, threat of encryption on the ECU spannering things etc.

I did something similar on a 5 series diesel BMW, destroying the catalytic converter (seemed a good idea at the time!), on reflection I wish I had not destroyed the cat as I induced a fault. I only worked this out some years after selling the car, when I carried out a similar exercise on a Vauxhall, inducing the same symptoms the BMW had, fortunately with the Vauxhall I had purchased a de-cat pipe, so could easily swap it back over.

Personally I would not destroy the DPF, but purchase a substitute section of pipe and have the ECU tweaked as required. Keeping the DPF and still having the option of returning the car to standard at some point in the future if needed.

Edited 9 March, 201016 yr by antrich1968

Anyone know if there is there a mod to remove the DPF and re-program the 2.0l PD 140 in the Scout?