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My first scan and 4 DTC's...yay!


jonboyuk

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Drat! My steering assist has failed me of late and I was advised on here to get a scan at my stealership. Well I bought a cable off fleabay and using the shareware Vag-com 409.1.

Ran a full scan for the Fabia (my car that is, Y reg)...and FOUR problems came up!!! I was hoping someone might be able to enlighten me (I've checked them as best I can with Lummox's codes).

  • Engine - 16502 P0118 Engine Coolant Temp.Circ High Input - 35-10 Intermittent
    (I have noticed my temp gauge only seldom reaches the '12 o'clock' position, usually just below)
  • ABS Breaks - 01314 Engine Control Module - 79-10 Please check fault codes - Intermittent.
    (No idea what the heck that is)
  • Steering Assist - 01290 - Reference Voltage: Steering Assist - 28-00 Short to B+
  • Steering Assist - 00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250) - 30-00 Open or Short to B+

Things I have noticed recently (aside from the lack of PAS), the engine doesn't like to start easily. I changed the car battery only last year as well. I have to give it some throttle to make it start most of the time. If I don't, it just tries and sometimes recovers from a bad start or just doesn't get going properly. Is it all related?

Thanks guys,

Jon

***EDIT*** Apparently dodgy electrics, lack of PAS, dodgy start up and intermittent temperature gauge = water in the wiring loom (or so I've read). I do get a lot of water inside my car over the winter (can be seen on the windscreen). Does this ring true with anyone? I'm not sure I can afford £500 for a new loom + labour :(

Edited by jonboyuk
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The Ross-Tech Wiki will help you unravel the codes.

The first one is probably the engine coolant temperature sensor on its way out, which I did a guide for [link]. It can cause poor starting and a lumpy idle, as well as dodgy readings on the temperature gauge. You may also wish to replace the thermostat housing at the same time, although I couldn't find a better method than in Haynes! This isn't essential, but can be a bit of a timebomb, and is often suggested as you can get both the housing and the sensor as a pack from a dealer.

The second one could possibly be a fault code telling you that you have fault codes (so says the Wiki!)

The third and fourth are obviously to do with your power steering. The first port-of-call with this fault is the battery, as the PAS pump draws something like 60A, but if the battery's only a few months old (you say 'last year', which could mean anything from 2 to 14 months ago), it might be the sensor. There's a guide on another member's site for replacing the sensor [link], but be aware that there are TWO types of sensor, so you need to be sure that you're replacing the right one. The guide covers the more tricky (and failure-prone!) version, which has a long fly-lead. The other one has a connector at the sensor end, but is otherwise the same. I think this may be the water-ingress issue you're thinking of, by the way...

Hope you get your car fixed soon! :)

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Apogee that was a perfect response! I went for a 2 hour drive today and I did notice that my coolant gauge never reached 12 o'clock., only about 10.30. In fact when I turned off the hot air inside, it did rise a little.

Recently I have been having a weird rev/idling issue where it goes up and down up and down when I'm sat at traffic lights. Is that what you mean by 'lumpy idle'? I looked at your guide and it seems really easy to switch them, so I'm going to buy one from ebay now. Before I do though, can you have a peek at these for me? Which one is right? One is called a coolant temp sensor here but looks different to yourpics, while the other is an engine temp sensor Here and looks like that of your pics.

Couldn't see any mention of the housing as a kit though...

I bought the battery Feb last year as the last one was always flat. Forgive my ignorance, but would a dodgy start relate to spark plugs? I've only ever heard of them and never changed them (not sure what they do!)

Re: water ingress, I'm just worried that I replace these sensors but all the electrics otherwise are fubar'd....is that likely would you imagine?

Finally - do you happen to know if I can clear faults with the shareware version of VAGCOM, or do I need to buy the full version for this?

Thanks so much Apogee.

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Apogee that was a perfect response! I went for a 2 hour drive today and I did notice that my coolant gauge never reached 12 o'clock., only about 10.30. In fact when I turned off the hot air inside, it did rise a little.

Recently I have been having a weird rev/idling issue where it goes up and down up and down when I'm sat at traffic lights. Is that what you mean by 'lumpy idle'?

Yes.

I looked at your guide and it seems really easy to switch them, so I'm going to buy one from ebay now. Before I do though, can you have a peek at these for me? Which one is right? One is called a coolant temp sensor here but looks different to yourpics, while the other is an engine temp sensor Here and looks like that of your pics.

The second one definitely looks right, but the first one just uses a stock photo so I couldn't really say.

Couldn't see any mention of the housing as a kit though...

You'll have to get this from a dealer, I think, if you want to do the whole thing. Although if the sensor's less than a tenner, it's probably worth buying the sensor on its own and taking a punt on the thermostat housing. Doing it this way has another advantage that you can look through the hole when you take the old sensor out, and then if the thermostat itself has gone, you will be able to see the spring through the hole. Buying the housing separately from somewhere like Jorily means you can get an uprated part which is much more durable. But like I say, you don't have much to lose by replacing the sensor on its own first!

I bought the battery Feb last year as the last one was always flat. Forgive my ignorance, but would a dodgy start relate to spark plugs? I've only ever heard of them and never changed them (not sure what they do!)

Potentially... Replacing them is on the service schedule, although as I drive a diesel, I can't say how often they get done (diesels don't have any...)

Re: water ingress, I'm just worried that I replace these sensors but all the electrics otherwise are fubar'd....is that likely would you imagine?

Not based on the fault codes you listed, I shouldn't think...

Finally - do you happen to know if I can clear faults with the shareware version of VAGCOM, or do I need to buy the full version for this?

Just hit the 'Clear Codes - 05' button, as shown on the screendump on p. 12 of the manual! :thumbup:

Thanks so much Apogee.

Glad I could help...

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You beauty. I will try just replacing the sensor as it's only a tenner and see how that goes. As for the PAS, I may just get my local garage to do it for me. I'll keep you updated on my progress!! Thanks again Apogee.

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ahh you have the 16v one, thermostat is better on those so just get the temp sender swapped, spark plugs should be changed at 40K also should have a cambelt change every 60K, might be worth getting the throttle body cleaned out too as that can cause poor starting

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Phew - well that's a relief as I only bought the new sensor anyway! Where the hell do I find where to put it is the question!? Don't really want to pay a garage £40 to fit a £8.50 part!!

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Oh nuts. I had five minutes spare today and I thought I'd have a go. Hahaha, five minutes - talk about super optimistic. Why must my Fabia be the difficult one??

It's really hard to get the engine cover off because it seems to have pipes attached to it (see below)

1.jpg

I'm pretty sure this is where the sensor it, but it points down and it's in a really really awkward position. No doubt if I try to take this out, coolant will go everywhere!!!

Is this it?

2.jpg

3.jpg

Any ideas how I go about it? I want to avoid garage fees and learn about my car!!! :) Thanks :)

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Looks right to me - at least it's facing you, unlike on the diesel, where it's facing AWAY from you! :rofl:

You just need to be quick:

* Put some newspaper under the car to collect the spills;

* Disconnect the wiring - I found the Z-shaped Allen keys you get with IKEA flat-packs are good for this, but you might want to practice on a similar connector that's easier to get at;

* If you've chosen to fit a new O-ring, put this onto the new sensor;

* Next, pull out the clip, and keep the old sensor in place with your finger;

* Get the new sensor ready, and whip the old one and the old O-ring out as fast as you can before stuffing the new sensor in and holding it in place again;

* Replace the clip (with a new one if you've got one), reconnect the wiring, and top up the coolant. Go for a bit of a drive, and top up again if necessary once cold.

You should get away with only losing a few hundred ml tops doing it this way! :thumbup:

PS: Can I link to your picture in my technical guide?

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Thanks Apogee, of course you can use my photograph(s) in your guide :rofl:

Okay I can sense the dark is coming so I will have a bash at it tomorrow....

My only reservation is this.....will it actually gush like turning a tap on full (ie is there lots of pressure when it's stone cold)? I'm just worried about it covering the internals of my engine bay and it's contents!!

Thanks again B)

PS. Is it a problem getting coolant all over your hands? (Presuming I don't lick them afterwards?)

PPS. I saw your updated guide, you can link the image directly if it helps, instead of just linking to the post Apogee!

Edited by jonboyuk
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I also have "ABS Breaks - 01314 Engine Control Module - 79-10 Please check fault codes - Intermittent." not been able to figure out what it means. I guess if there was an ABS fault that needed my attention the warning light would come on.

Also I found I couldn't clear codes with the free shareware version.

Edited by anewman
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I also have "ABS Breaks - 01314 Engine Control Module - 79-10 Please check fault codes - Intermittent." not been able to figure out what it means. I guess if there was an ABS fault that needed my attention the warning light would come on.

Also I found I couldn't clear codes with the free shareware version.

It's too hard. I gave up. Garage will do it!

As for the code clearing...I found it worked when there was just one code per module, but any more than that and it won't...

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For future reference, re: ABS Brakes - 01314 Engine Control Module

I noticed I had 2 odd sized tyres. After having the correct size tyres fitted, I found this code disappeared, so I suggest if this code comes up it'w worth checking tyre sizes and pressures. Still no idea what it meant or how to read the codes it suggests to read though.

Also, I concur the codes seem to be clearable in the individual modules, but it complains about lack of professional interface or something if you try to clear the lot at once.

Edited by anewman
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[*] Steering Assist - 00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250) - 30-00 Open or Short to B+

Isn't this the power steering angle sensor, G250? Code suggests it is rather FUBARd. This is what will cause the PAS to be dead. Replacing it is a bit of a pain and needs to be done from underneath. Part is approx £60-£70 new. A wire goes from the base of the steering column/rack all the way across and to the power steering pump on the nearside edge of the car.

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  • 5 months later...

I just did this on my Fabia Comfort 2002 1.4 16v. Very awkward position to get to but I have got larger than average hands so that didn't help. Forgett putting your finger over to stop the coolant escaping because your finger just won't be big enough to block it. Anyway, only a little coolant escaped what was in the pipe leading to/from the sensor I believe. Thank goodness for that. It seems to be working now and the fault light (engine management light) has gone off on my dash. Fingers crossed and thanks all esp apogee. :thumbup:

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  • 4 years later...

Sorry to resurrect an old topic but its probably better than to clutter up with the same question restarted.

JonboyUK is there any way you can post your photos again please as they are not working and I would like to double check what the hell I am looking at before I have a go :)
Thanks

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