(Previous post below to give context to earlier replies)

Hello again.

Had a brief go at installing this over the weekend, without success, most likely because I didn't actually connect the earth wire coming from the Connects2 box, which I'll get on to now...

The (very ropey) installation guide here that it comes with seems to suggest pushing the earth wire into the back of the headunit, but there's nowhere obvious to do that on the Stream. Does the metal case of the back of the HU class as an earth point, as there are a couple of small screws I could partly undo and attach the earth wire to, or is this a very bad idea? If so, are there any obvious points around the centre console? I had a look around, but it all seems to be moulded plastic, I couldn't see any bare metal/chassis anywhere.

Regarding removing the glove box... I had a look around but it was starting to get a bit dark by then. Is it simply a case of unscrewing all the screws around the edge of the box and it'll pop out?

I also **** a brick when I put everything back together, switched the ignition on and found the power-steering, ESP and tyre pressure monitor warning lights all staying lit! (After a brief panic, I read the manual and discovered taking the car for a short drive would reset those! Sheesh!) Not used to working on a car with such modern electronics!

Thanks for any help offered.

Chris.

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Hi all,

I've been reading some conflicting info on whether or not I'll need my radio code if I disconnect the battery.

I want to remove the standard Stream HU so I can fit a Connects2 Aux-in adapter in place of the CD changer.

As I'll be putting the same HU back into the car will the ECU recognise it and remember the code, or will I still need to enter it when I reconnect everything?

Ta in advance.

Chris.

Edited 3 July, 201015 yr by BigC

Some HU allow a setting so that the code is automatically stored and entered when reconnected, I dont know what the criteria is for setting it one way or the other, not sure if the Stream supports this. Best to err on the side of caution and be prepared first.

Speak to your local dealer, IF you need a code and dont have it, they should be able to give it to you.

Thanks Rhoobarb. Any idea if they'd be able to give me the code over the phone or would I have to go there in person?

Cheers.

You wont need the code if the radio is going back into the same car. The car will 'recognise' the radio and not ask for a code.

Thanks Rhoobarb. Any idea if they'd be able to give me the code over the phone or would I have to go there in person?

Cheers.

Im not sure, not having had to do it. Best bet is give them a ring, see what they need. Keep in mind if they can do it some dealers charge for it, some dont. I dont think it costs that much from those that do.

If you got the car from them, you could do the 'reading the manual when noticed it said to enter code, you didnt give me one'.

You wont need the code if the radio is going back into the same car. The car will 'recognise' the radio and not ask for a code.

Im sure thats not 100%, if you search there are threads where codes have had to be entered possibly due to something going wrong.

quote from the stream manual

The code is stored in the instrument cluster. Through this it is automatically

decoded (convenience coding). A manual entry of the code is normally not

necessary.

But it doesnt say what condition would cause it to need to be entered. So you should be safe

http://ws.skoda-auto.com/download/4all/Documentation/en/Olders/Octavia/radio/A5_Octavia_Stream_CarRadio.pdf

if needed

Edited 9 June, 201016 yr by Rhoobarb

You wont need the code if the radio is going back into the same car. The car will 'recognise' the radio and not ask for a code.

Thanks Keith, that's good to know.

Im not sure, not having had to do it. Best bet is give them a ring, see what they need. Keep in mind if they can do it some dealers charge for it, some dont. I dont think it costs that much from those that do.

If you got the car from them, you could do the 'reading the manual when noticed it said to enter code, you didnt give me one'.

Yeah, that sounds like a good angle, thanks. Need to call them about some other stuff anyway, will be good to have the code even if I don't need it now.

Im sure thats not 100%, if you search there are threads where codes have had to be entered possibly due to something going wrong.

quote from the stream manual

But it doesnt say what condition would cause it to need to be entered. So you should be safe

Yes, you might have issues if your changing the instrument cluster or doing other involved repairs to the electrical system, or having the battery disconnected for weeks/months at a time but for a simple remove and refit of the radio in an 06 car there will be no problems. Mine has never asked for a code once in the 10+ times it has been removed (thats in a 2006 and in my 2010 model Octy's)

Just to confirm, I had the battery disconnected and stereo out over the weekend, then back in and everything was fine, no code req'd.

Have updated first post and thread title to ask slightly different question now, any help appreciated.

Cheers.

Thanks for that edited-in pdf manual Rhoobarb, only just noticed!

screws at the top inside the glove box. underneath as well, then another when you take the side panel off.

Then disconnect the light, and then disconnect the air con pipe into the side.

The fiddly bit is the passenger airbag connector which is okay to undo but a bitch to get back in - I unscrewed the box/cover of it, connected it and then screwed it back in.

screws at the top inside the glove box. underneath as well, then another when you take the side panel off.

Then disconnect the light, and then disconnect the air con pipe into the side.

The fiddly bit is the passenger airbag connector which is okay to undo but a bitch to get back in - I unscrewed the box/cover of it, connected it and then screwed it back in.

Thanks prolfe, will see if I can check out where the airbag connector is tonight, see how fiddly it is. Thanks for the tip.

How'd you get on?

How'd you get on?

Not had a chance to give it a proper look yet. :(

Perils of having a young child!

Also still unsure about the earth point/metal back of the stereo issue.

Not had a chance to give it a proper look yet. :(

Perils of having a young child!

Also still unsure about the earth point/metal back of the stereo issue.

Is there no screws at all on the (bare) metal casing parts of the stereo?

Edited 30 June, 201015 yr by Rhoobarb

Is there no screws at all on the (bare) metal casing parts of the stereo?

Yeah, there are a couple of v.small torx screws that would be fine, I'm just not sure if it's a good idea to use the metal casing as an earth point, that's what I need clarification on.

Can't see why it wouldn't be, as it must be earthed itself, just want to double-check.

Only had the car a few weeks and don't want to knacker any of the electrics just yet!

Right, finally managed to get it sorted today.

For the earth point, I found another torx screw with a washer, attaching the plastic surround to some unpainted framework. Trapping the earth wire between the screw and washer worked perfectly.

You can see it right in the middle here:

I decided not to remove the glovebox in the end, and aimed to feed the cable up through the storage box at the top above the vents instead. Getting that unit out was fun! There's only three clips holding it in, but you have to apply a lot of force to get them out.

Once the vent unit was removed, there's LOADS of space around either side of the stereo area, very handy for storing the Connects2 box and extra cabling.

Couldn't work out how to remove the wiring from the hazard light switch to remove the unit fro mthe car and don't have a cordless drill so couldn't get a hole sorted to get the cable through, so had to pack the cabling in the dash and refit the vent unit for now, but will get that sorted soon.

Also, while I was there, I found this... thing coming off the same wiring as the hazard switch. Anyone got any idea what it's for?

You can run the cable into the top cubbie box through the door hinge bit, theres plenty of room, no drilling required. I ran my gateway ipod cable there, can do pics if need be

As for that connection, not sure :wonder:

Was it just loose? Was there any identification numbers on it?

Hi,

That connection belongs in the air ducting right behind the head unit. There are two, each sat in their own bit of the duct right by each other. Easy enough to fit (or re-fit in your case) just a straight push fit and turn ninety degrees.

You can run the cable into the top cubbie box through the door hinge bit, theres plenty of room, no drilling required. I ran my gateway ipod cable there, can do pics if need be

Awesome, that's handy. Does it not snag at all?

Hi,

That connection belongs in the air ducting right behind the head unit. There are two, each sat in their own bit of the duct right by each other. Easy enough to fit (or re-fit in your case) just a straight push fit and turn ninety degrees.

Brill, ta.

Is it a temp sensor for the A/C or something?

---

Ironically, I've just discovered that the CD player in the HU doesn't actually work, after attempting for the first time to stick a disc in yesterday! Disc goes halfway in and won't go any further, then displays an error message. Feels like there is already a disc in but hitting eject just brings up "No CD". Jeez.

Will probably have to remove the Connects2 unit before I take it in to get looked at, as they'll probably somehow try to blame it on that.

Am becoming very adept at removing/re-fitting stereo,surround and vents now!

Edited 5 July, 201015 yr by BigC

Awesome, that's handy. Does it not snag at all?

No, all it needs is a bit of a harder push to open and close, not much, just a bit of extra pressure.

Ill get pics now

Edited 5 July, 201015 yr by Rhoobarb

No, all it needs is a bit of a harder push to open and close, not much, just a bit of extra pressure.

Ill get pics now

Look forward to seeing them... <bated breath>

Look forward to seeing them... <bated breath>

I did it because I wasnt brave enough to start drilling holes in the car :yes:

A usb plug pushes easily in the gap, some fatter connector may take a bit of working through, the slot can flex a little. The cable ends up at the side of the HU.

Hope this helps

EDIT: Keep in mind it gets VERY hot in that cubby if direct sunlight is on it...

Edited 5 July, 201015 yr by Rhoobarb

Very nice, ta.

Will see how it goes, might still be a bit neater to take a drill to it, so it comes out of the back of the storage area, but that's a nice simple solution.

Cheers.