Wrap the piston in an an old rag and clamp it in a vice, then wrap another rag around the end fixing and use some mole grips on it - they then come off a treat!.

Wrap the piston in an an old rag and clamp it in a vice, then wrap another rag around the end fixing and use some mole grips on it - they then come off a treat!.

Thanks for the advice, but I haven't got any mole grips or a vice!!

Thanks for the advice, but I haven't got any mole grips or a vice!!

Got visions of ya using your teeth and growling at it

Got visions of ya using your teeth and growling at it

That could happen.......

Any chance of a 'how to' guide when you've sussed it? I'm keen on doing this too but I'll need an idiots guide!!! Ta

Any chance of a 'how to' guide when you've sussed it? I'm keen on doing this too but I'll need an idiots guide!!! Ta

The OP has added a guide - see post # 14 - but I can put something on as and when I get the right tools from work, hopefully today. tbh apart from the problem with seperating the rod for the top clip it should be very staright forward. :S

I hope this can help you a bit.

It comes off quite easy with the correct tools....

p.s do as Gizmo says: Wrap the piston in an an old rag and clamp it in a vice, then wrap another rag around the end fixing and use some mole grips on it - they then come off a treat!.

I hope this can help you a bit.

It comes off quite easy with the correct tools....

p.s do as Gizmo says: Wrap the piston in an an old rag and clamp it in a vice, then wrap another rag around the end fixing and use some mole grips on it - they then come off a treat!.

Thats a pipe wrench not moleys!!!!!!!!!!

He he, i'm from denmark, so I dont know the english tool terms

But I used 2 pipe wrenches (the picture is borrowed from a friend

Your English is a lot better than my Danish..........

I have just raided the tool locker at work, so I will give it another go tomorrow morning, fingers crossed!

Your English is a lot better than my Danish..........

I have just raided the tool locker at work, so I will give it another go tomorrow morning, fingers crossed!

It helps if you get a friend to hold one of the wrenches so you can turn counter.

It doesnt sit that thight.

Remember to tighten the pieces togheter after you have apllied the spring

My big concern is, that I have the only Octavia on the planet where Skoda decided, lets glue this one in place.

Edited 8 July, 201015 yr by Pagey1255

All done this morning, applied a bit of WD40, then held the rod near the end clip with a set of mini moleys, small adjustable spanner to undo the clip, then on with the spring, then back on the car, no more than 5 minutes to do both.

I haven't secured the springs yet as I have ordered a medium duty set to try out, then which ever one I decide on I will spray them black to match the car and secure............so if anyone is interested in doing this very effective and cheap mod check out My link for springs, or PM me as I will have a spare set going cheap!

video

Edited 9 July, 201015 yr by Pagey1255

Has anyone attempted this on the hatch yet? I do like the look of this (and yes, I am aware I'm an idle sod )

All done this morning, applied a bit of WD40, then held the rod near the end clip with a set of mini moleys, small adjustable spanner to undo the clip, then on with the spring, then back on the car, no more than 5 minutes to do both.

Super Job Pagey, finally got them off :p

It´s SO nice when it is finally done, and I really think it is a super good, and super cheap mod for the Octy!

Att.: Raglits

It has been done on a Hatch in Denmark, with the same springs (nearly) but I am not sure if the springs actually fit the hatch?

Has anyone attempted this on the hatch yet? I do like the look of this (and yes, I am aware I'm an idle sod )

I'm sure the rod diameter will be the same between hatch and estate, with the boot shut look in the gap between tailgate and the rear qtr, at the damper and get an approximate measurement of the exposed rod! Let me know this size and I will be able to tell you which springs you need.

I will spray them black

Just make sure you use elastic paint

I'm sure the rod diameter will be the same between hatch and estate, with the boot shut look in the gap between tailgate and the rear qtr, at the damper and get an approximate measurement of the exposed rod!

Exposed male part of the rod is 20mm long, and there's 10mm clearance either side to the bodywork (left-right)

Edit: I've a feeling I've measured the wrong thing..? :S Yeah, need to check between tailgate itself and male part of the rod in a 'vertical' plane too?

Edited 9 July, 201015 yr by AdamR

Just ordered some blue mediums for my estate too

Many thanks for this thread guys! :yes:

Exposed male part of the rod is 20mm long, and there's 10mm clearance either side to the bodywork (left-right)

Edit: I've a feeling I've measured the wrong thing..? :S Yeah, need to check between tailgate itself and male part of the rod in a 'vertical' plane too?

That sounds about the same as mine! As long as the outside spring diameter is less than the diameter of the damper you should have no clearance issues.

And please give an update (maybe video) of how the boot opens with medium springs.

I think that the red heavy duty ones are a little too fast.

And please give an update (maybe video) of how the boot opens with medium springs.

I think that the red heavy duty ones are a little too fast.

The springs don't have any baring on the opening speed, all they do is push the tailgate open enough to get the dampers working, that's what lifts the boot up, so realistically the only way to slow it down would be to install weaker dampers, not a course of action I would recommend!

Having said that, I will do a couple of tests between the different springs just for confirmation.

How are you guys fixing the spring to the strut??

How are you guys fixing the spring to the strut??

I will be experimenting during the next few days, black electrical tape would be an obvious choice, but I may try a large diameter heat shrink around the spring and on to the damper, that way the spring will be entirely concealed but will will still work as the heat shrink should flex when the spring is compressed.

but I may try a large diameter heat shrink around the spring and on to the damper

You're as sharp as a tack what a cracking idea