Got the TT wishbones fitted on the car at the weekend along with the whiteline anti lift kit and superpro front bushes. Really transformed the car even with the rest of the suspension being standard. Wasnt the cheapest thing to do but worth it. Front camber is now -1.5 degs too!

To do this you need:

2006 > TT wishbones, ball joints and securing plates

Whiteline WALK kit - KCA316

Superpro bushes - SPF3346K

Pics:

Alex

Where did you get that done mate, looks like wheels in motion?

How much were the TT arms?

Im the mechanic for Backdraft Motorsport so I get to do this all myself

The arms retail at £105 + vat each.

Ahhhhh so you don't pay for fitting

Am I right that these are alloy and not cast iron like the OEM parts? Are they OEM TT arms or copies by someone else?

Reason I ask is I have the R32 brakes fitted and wanted to counter some of the unsprung weight

I already have the WALK what would be the cost for you guys to supply & fit the rest.

Ahhhhh so you don't pay for fitting

Am I right that these are alloy and not cast iron like the OEM parts? Are they OEM TT arms or copies by someone else?

Reason I ask is I have the R32 brakes fitted and wanted to counter some of the unsprung weight

I already have the WALK what would be the cost for you guys to supply & fit the rest.

they are alloy and weigh hardly anything as well. They are Oem as well. there are after control arms available from morego but they seriously look like someones just welded a plate on them to extend the arm.

these are the parts required, i bought these in germany, and then foolishly sold themto run an inferior kit, which i sold as well

1- Lower control arm:

Amount required=2 total, 1 per side

Part number=8J0 407 151 D (same part number for each side)

2- Bolt to attach lower arm (dont know exact name for it):

Amount required= 2 total, 1 per side

Part Number=N 101 410 03

3- Ball Joints:

Amount required= 2 total, 1 per side

Part number= 8J0 407 365 (LEFT SIDE), 8J0 407 366 (RIGHT SIDE)

4- Ball Joint bolts:

Amount required= 6 total, (3 per side)

Part Number= N103 320 02

5- Ball Joint Lock Plates:

Amount required= 2 total, 1 each side

Part number= 8J0 407 175 (176)

Edited 23 June, 201015 yr by vRSy

Cheers Sy

Sorry if its a bit obvious, but are the console bushes part of the replacement wishbone ?

Sorry if its a bit obvious, but are the console bushes part of the replacement wishbone ?

Yes they are. The wishbones come with solid rear bushes which are much better than the standard vRS bushes.

Added current prices for the parts and some part numbers are different to what I have:

1- Lower control arm: - £104.18 Each

Amount required=2 total, 1 per side

Part number=8J0 407 151 D (same part number for each side)

2- Hex Nut to attach ball joint to hub : - £1.91 Each

Amount required= 2 total, 1 per side

Part Number=WHT 000 785

3- Ball Joints: - £34.00 Each

Amount required= 2 total, 1 per side

Part number= 8J0 407 365 (LEFT SIDE), 8J0 407 366 (RIGHT SIDE)

4- Ball Joint Nuts: - £0.50p Each

Amount required= 6 total, (3 per side)

Part Number= N103 320 02

5- Ball Joint Lock Plates: - £4.57

Amount required= 2 total, 1 each side

Part number= 8J0 407 175 (176)

Total is £292.32 + vat or £343.48 inc Vat

We would charge around 1.5 hours to fit these. The driveshaft needs to be popped out slightly to fit the ball joints. You will need an alignment afterwards too.

Edited 23 June, 201015 yr by IbizaAlex

This is interesting stuff guys. I'm trying to get my head round the change - by changing the camber in at the top that will improve cornering grip and so you can turn harder and get on the power earlier.

Does this mean there's a slight trade off with straightline acceleration? To my thinking if the cambers significant enough then in a straight line neither drive wheel will be as well connected with the road?

Is this theory right?

In practice i'm guessing a person / driver wouldn't be a sensitive enough measuring device to notice a difference in acceleration grip, or can you tell?

Mmmm those wishbones are lovely. I have wishbone envy!

Added current prices for the parts and some part numbers are different to what I have:

1- Lower control arm: - £104.18 Each

Amount required=2 total, 1 per side

Part number=8J0 407 151 D (same part number for each side)

2- Hex Nut to attach ball joint to hub : - £1.91 Each

Amount required= 2 total, 1 per side

Part Number=WHT 000 785

3- Ball Joints: - £34.00 Each

Amount required= 2 total, 1 per side

Part number= 8J0 407 365 (LEFT SIDE), 8J0 407 366 (RIGHT SIDE)

4- Ball Joint Nuts: - £0.50p Each

Amount required= 6 total, (3 per side)

Part Number= N103 320 02

5- Ball Joint Lock Plates: - £4.57

Amount required= 2 total, 1 each side

Part number= 8J0 407 175 (176)

Total is £292.32 + vat or £343.48 inc Vat

We would charge around 1.5 hours to fit these. The driveshaft needs to be popped out slightly to fit the ball joints. You will need an alignment afterwards too.

Thats not bad at all considering the dealer quoted me ~£400 to replace the console bushes...... no mention of replacement wishbones either !

a few points for you guys

There are alot of plus points to these guys.

1-increased track width

2-An 0.5^o of extra adjustable negative camber(unlowered it is -1^o, more if lowered)

3-Much lighter than stock lower arms, and with them being unsprung weight there are even more advantages in the handling department with the weight loss

4-stiffer bushes= more feel

reference the camber, The camber comes in from the bottom and not the top, and its only a half degree extra, so the loss of straightline grip would be negligible in comparison to the additional cornering grip.

in comparison the moregopower grip arms give a fixed -1.75⁰, and top mounts allow you to adjust upto -3^o which is massively more than this setup. This is Oem kit, so highly unikely to be extreme with tyre wear etc

in comparison the moregopower grip arms give a fixed -1.75⁰, and top mounts allow you to adjust upto -3^o which is massively more than this setup. This is Oem kit, so highly unikely to be extreme with tyre wear etc

Cheers for that Sy, that all makes a lot of sense. I was completely overlooking the fact the TT comes like this from the factory. It makes sense this isn't going to be over the top given it's OEM on a different model!

So if you were to buy the wishbones, they come complete with all bushes etc, so you could just do a straight swap without going near the superpro or walk etc?

not sure about the Superpro bushes but you definately don't need the WALK. I would imagine the OEM item comes with OEM bushes but dont quote me on that. But you Defo don't need the WALK

not sure about the Superpro bushes but you definately don't need the WALK. I would imagine the OEM item comes with OEM bushes but dont quote me on that. But you Defo don't need the WALK

I kinda guessed I don't need the walk, but if the OEM wishbones come with the OEM solid rubber bushes and consoles, then it's a very interesting option come bush replacement time as it probably wouldn't cost much more than changing the existing ones.

I kinda guessed I don't need the walk, but if the OEM wishbones come with the OEM solid rubber bushes and consoles, then it's a very interesting option come bush replacement time as it probably wouldn't cost much more than changing the existing ones.

They do come with the solid bushes and consoles. I wanted a little extra caster and had the Walk kit all ready to be fitted before I decided to go for the TT bones. The quality of the superpro bushes is great and they come with a 3 year warrenty which always helps!

If i've picked it up right, the walk kit does something extra - it's main thing is to lower the mount point of the wishbone, and that causes the car to dive under braking and stops it lifting under acceleration. That means that the springs / dampers are brought into play (instead of using the bushes / wishbone stiffness) a lot more for cornering under load and should mean that you get better traction when cornering.

They designed in extra castor to counteract the fact that some castor is lost when the front dives. They designed in camber for... i think that's just better geometry for better grip during cornering?

I don't have this 100% nailed in my mind yet so if any of you guys can fix it, much appreciated

Top topic i'd love to shadow a race team and learn all this stuff properly. Wonder if there's any openings for F1 mechanics on s1jobs.com...

Edited 24 June, 201015 yr by Mute

It doesnt lower the point of the console, it moves it out slightly so this doesnt affect the braking dive. They are more anti lift due to the type of bush they use and actually more anti dive too. Caster tends to stay the same under braking, but changes more when cornering. I have run -3 degs camber on a road car before with no inside edge wear issues. As long as the toe is spot on then wear is minimal/

To be fair I'm not a fan of poly bushes due to the material differences between the poly and metal/rubber bushes.

The OEM TT solid bush however seems very interesting.

I don't suppose you know how long the book time for fitting these things, just so I can work out a cost.

Thanks

To be fair I'm not a fan of poly bushes due to the material differences between the poly and metal/rubber bushes.

The OEM TT solid bush however seems very interesting.

I don't suppose you know how long the book time for fitting these things, just so I can work out a cost.

Thanks

We would say 1.5 to 2 hours to fit these and we are £60+ vat ph. Alignment would be £85 + Vat. It takes 2 days from ordering to get the parts in

It doesnt lower the point of the console, it moves it out slightly so this doesnt affect the braking dive. They are more anti lift due to the type of bush they use and actually more anti dive too. Caster tends to stay the same under braking, but changes more when cornering. I have run -3 degs camber on a road car before with no inside edge wear issues. As long as the toe is spot on then wear is minimal/

With all due respect to the posters on here there is a lot of confusion about chassis geometry and chassis mods.

The 'anti-lift kit' actually promotes lift/dive and does not reduce it (as most people seem to think). I have worked on chassis mods for the best part of 30 years (professionally as well as privately) and the amount of mis-information on the Internet is unbelievable.

The idea of the WALK is to move the wishbone rear pivot point both downwards and outwards from the vehicle centre line. I won't go into the full physics of this, but the result is to increase caster by a small amount (c.0.5deg) and slightly increase dynamic camber. Suspension compliance is increased (i.e. the front is made a bit softer) which improves wheel tracking and so gives slightly better front-end grip in a corner and when accelerating on undulating roads. Secondary effects are improved high-speed stability and slightly stronger self-centering (heavier steering). Whiteline have actually published a technical paper with full explanation and measurements taken on road.

Increasing front end -ve camber can be a mixed blessing. As with everything, you can have too much. Excess -ve camber can result in overly-aggressive turn-in and make a car twitchy to drive and difficult to drive smoothly.

The tyres produce optimum grip when the wheel is perpendicular to the road. The idea of static camber setting (typically -1deg) is that when the suspension is operating dynamically (i.e. the vehicle is in motion and not sat on the aligner) the camber is actually close to zero. The change is due to compliance in the bushes and aerodynamic effects changing the stance of the car etc. All this is sorted out in the design phase.

The Audi TT probably needs more -ve camber because is has a much lower CoG than an Octavia and a different relationship between CoG and roll-centre.

No one should need -3 deg of camber.

Spent yesterday Reading the whiteline site, the whiteline guys seem to know their stuff (either that or they just talk a good game like me ).

So when they analysed the golf mk5 chassis, and they seem to have measured and tested it in just about every way possible, they're saying the priorities, in order are:

rear anti rollbar - set to low or medium, if you want to use medium / high you should uprate the front ARB too.

Bump steer kit - apparently they found the mk5 bump steers in a way not found on modern cars, they seem pretty annoyed by it!

Anti lift kit

then there's other bits and bobs they're laying out as less important, mostly firmer bushes and stuff.

So I guess it comes down to do I trust whiteline to have analysed it properly and come up with the right suggestions to improve it.

what would you say would be the best Mod to do first, uprate the ARB or do these wishbones.

both will be on the car eventually, something has to be done, because the std suspension on the vRS is pants and ive got a few track days planed next month