Hi all,

just following on from the other n249 thread i was posting in, i felt bad hijacking it.

I'm now looking to bypass my n249 to try and correct some of my running issues.

However i have a few simple questions,

I wish to leave the unit in place and just bypass it so i don't get any error codes.

From looking at the engine i can see the 2 metal pipes dissappearing down but cannot see much more than that,

my first question is can this be done without removing any pieces from the car? (on top of the engine if you know what i mean.)

Are there any simple step by step photo guides on how its done? I've read the topic in the technical section but that covers more than i want to do so i'm struggling to follow it. I'm not very mechanically minded so the simpler the better.

So far my parts that i belive i need are;

4mm vacuum hose,

4mm t piece,

and some clamps (not sure how many)

What other parts will i need?

Thanks for the help,

Shaun.

After a little more reading i have found this

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/213950/1381524.aspx#1381524

Is this going to be the easiest way to do this?

rob does some good write ups http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/ but if you use the search there are more available

I'm also looking to get this done but want to leave everything in place incase I am unlucky and suffer from over boosting. I'm waiting for unit18 to give me a price along with some other work.

I've done this mod a month or two ago, yes it works. I can post the photos or the whole link from the russian site where I found all the instructions. You'll need 2 extra pieces of a reinforced/braided hose 6 mm internal diameter and about 30 cm in length each, some clamps, a pair of extra hands would be VERY useful 'cause even if it's not that hard it's still quite tricky, a plenty of time and of course BEER )))

I'm gonig to follow the UK-MKIVS.NET guide this weekend when I get a new T piece as I have fitted a boost gauge now after my remap so will need two T's on the FPR. My mate done this mod on his Ibiza Cupra R and swears by it, said it made his throttle response somewhat improved and no accidentally dumping air mid boost.

I did it on another members car the other week and we just cut off a lot of the existing hoses, trimmed some of them and re-used them. We left the N249 attached to the plate it sits on and fitted a resistor in the multiplug. It all works fine although we did cable tie the pipes on to the t-pieces etc so may have to revisit it and replace the cable ties with small hose clips.

If I can remember exactly what we did I'll try and post a short guide up later.

I did it on another members car the other week and we just cut off a lot of the existing hoses, trimmed some of them and re-used them. We left the N249 attached to the plate it sits on and fitted a resistor in the multiplug. It all works fine although we did cable tie the pipes on to the t-pieces etc so may have to revisit it and replace the cable ties with small hose clips.

If I can remember exactly what we did I'll try and post a short guide up later.

why fit a resistor when you left the n249 valve in place ???? just leave it plugged in :p

I'm gonig to follow the UK-MKIVS.NET guide this weekend when I get a new T piece as I have fitted a boost gauge now after my remap so will need two T's on the FPR. My mate done this mod on his Ibiza Cupra R and swears by it, said it made his throttle response somewhat improved and no accidentally dumping air mid boost.

why 2 T's in the fpr? my dump valve runs straight off the inlet manifold and the boost gauge can be T'd into the fpr. if i was keeping it i would run the brake servo from one outlet near the dipstick and my boost gauge off the other as there's 2 there and just block the end outlet on the inlet manifold as that would no longer be needed

why fit a resistor when you left the n249 valve in place ???? just leave it plugged in :p

Coz the N249 was broken thats why we did the bypass. It was throwing a fault code and a CEL light.

Now it thinks there's a working N249 connected

Edited 13 July, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

The linky to the post where all the photos are attached.

Final result of the mod.

"Broken" you mean literally? Mechanical malfunction? Even if the valve is broken, it still shows 300 Ohm to the ECU, so there's no need to apply that extra resistor to the harness. Mine was broken too, left it in the place, under the plate, didn't disconnect the harness - no CEL, no codes, faster response. I'm satisfied.

Edited 13 July, 201015 yr by DriVE654

Ok if I remember correctly this is what we did, it took a couple of hours and some cut hands mainly because it was a pig to get the single use clips off the existing hoses.

Referring to Robs diagram on www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk

http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/V2Images/ModsEngine/N249Removal.htm

1. Unbolt the plastic secondary air hose from the plate in front of the dipstick and disconnect it from the airbox so you can move it out the way while you are working

2. Unbolt the plate from the inlet manifold and slide it off of the dipstick (take care not to snap the dipstick)

3. You can then remove the hoses etc from the underside of the plate where the N249 (number 16 in the diag) and N112 (number 17) valves are located. As I said above the clips on the hoses are an arse to undo so you'll need some thin nosed pliers and a small flat-bladed screwdriver

These are the steps we took re. the hoses

4. Locate the small vac hose from the bottom right hand side of the inlet manifold to the N249 system. It goes into a t-piece. Disconnect the other hoses from either side of this t-piece.

5. Locate the long hose from the vacuum connector on top of the divertor valve. This goes down the side of the engine where it joins to a metal pipe then becomes a rubber hose again and joins the N249 system just next to the N249 valve. disconnect it at the N249 valve end. If you're not sure you've got the right hose then disconnect the DV end and blow into it and feel if air is coming out the other end.

6. Connect the hose you disconnected in step 5 to the right hand side of the t-piece in step 4. You now have a vacuum connection straight from the inlet mani to the DV but you need to do something with the other part of the t-piece...

7. Locate the one-way valve (number 7 in Robs diagram) and remove it

8. There is a t-piece in the N249 system between the N249 (16) and the N112 (17). Remove the hose from this t-piece that goes to the N112 valve and fit the one-way valve from step 7 onto the hose so that air can go through to the N112 but not back the other way (blow into the valve ports to see which way it lets air through).

9. There is a long plastic hose under the plate with two shorter rubber hoses at either end. Disconnect this and then re-connect it between the one-way valve and the other connection on the t-piece from the inlet manifold in step 6.

10. Secure all hoses with small hoseclips, throw away any un-used bits of hose and old clips, cable tie any hanging hoses to the bottom of the plate.

11. Remove the multiplug from the N249 valve and fit a resistor to it (330ohm 10w).

12. Now start the car and take it for a short drive. Fault code scan it, and if you get a fault code related to the N249 system you may have fitted the one-way valve the wrong way round so sort that out and try it again, it should now be fine.

Forgot to add we removed the vacuum reservoir as well, once you've done step 8 onwards the vac reservoir is redundant.

Edited 13 July, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

thank you for all of the replys, some interesting reading.

Do i need to do anything to the actual n249 or can i simply unplug the pipe from the top of the dv and seal with bolt or simular (leaving it in place), remove the pipe from the box on top of coil pack 4 and seal with a bolt or simular (again leaving it in place). Then bring a t piece off the fpr to the top of the dv or am i missing something important?

I'd rather not touch anything i really don't have to in fear or breaking something or making it worse, also this way if i need to i can just reconnect everything.

Sorry if i'm being dumb but there are so many guides out there and some of them are quite complex.

and finally what size pipe will i need? so far i've seen 3mm, 4mm and 6mm? which will be best?

Many thanks,

Shaun.

If you're planning to leave the N249 as it is then you'll probably need 6mm (or even 7mm but without the clamp 7mm won't be secured) because it's VERY tight fit (I even used wet soap) else you may use everything that fits the intake mani connector.

The idea is quite simple especially looking at the photos of the process - take off two hoses, loop back the N249 with one hose and connect the orphaned pipes (plastic and metal ones) with the other hose, get rid of all old one-time clamps and secure all newly made connections with the new clamps. That's all, but all the crap around as the lack of expirience and correct tools makes it one really hard task.

Edited 13 July, 201015 yr by DriVE654

"Broken" you mean literally? Mechanical malfunction?

Yep, mechanical malfunction. It wasn't assisting the DV to release the boost so the DV was opening purely by the boost pressure in the pipework. We could hear the boost trying to go back through the turbo every time the throttle was closed. It had the error code 17608. We cleared the code after we did the bypass but it came back so fitted the resistor and now it works fine with no code, there is no judder whatsoever each time the DV releases.

Edited 13 July, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

why 2 T's in the fpr? my dump valve runs straight off the inlet manifold and the boost gauge can be T'd into the fpr. if i was keeping it i would run the brake servo from one outlet near the dipstick and my boost gauge off the other as there's 2 there and just block the end outlet on the inlet manifold as that would no longer be needed

You got photos of where you mean abit confuzzled mate

picture quality is a bit naff but you'll get the idea.

fpr and dv run from inlet

if i were keeping mine this end outlet would be blocked off

i would the run the brake servo from the left outlet and the boost gauge from the other outlet on the manifold behind the dipstick

i also cut bk the pipe from the turbo and blocked it so it was out of the way

i have another inlet manifold which i was gonna get the end outlet alloy welded up then smoothed and chromed to tidy the bay even further

HTH

Edited 16 July, 201015 yr by sivrs

Thanks for the pictures but still wouldn't do it this way LOL I'd feck summit up heehee, If i lived closer I would have popped round haha

I've done this mod & also got rid of the secondary air system as i don't run a cat, apart from mot time. When the car is cold the car trys to over boost even on slight to no throttle. I get fault codes for n249 & secondary air system (apr stage 2 fault code clearer sorts it). The car in general runs better apart from when cold. Resistors are are fitted to all connecters that have been unplugged. Any ideas anyone

I take it you've got a remap as you mentioned having an APR stage 2 fault scanner?

It could be the map is causing the car to overboost, normally the car can use the N249 as a means to control this by opening the DV as boost is building up to vent some of it but as you've removed the N249 it's not able to do that.

Even though you've removed the secondary air system you should still let the car warm up for 90 seconds before driving away as there is another part to the cold start process that is still working, the variable valve timing which keeps the exhaust valves open for slightly longer than normal until the cold start process is finished.

I shall give that a go, cheers. Just a bit difficult not to annoy the neighbours at 4.30 in morning when going to work. Usually just coast of the estate on tick over.