[Bowders1]

Hi folks here is a DIY thread on replacing Rear axle bushes.

It is not hugely technical job but you need patience and plan for not having car done in a day. I think I could probably do the Job in 4 hours now providing no unplanned issues arise. And with this pics and instructions you should do it quicker than I did on my first attempt which was approx 7 hours. Although this did include taking pics and fussing around with other area's to sort whilst car up in the air.

Main Tools needed.

Sockets and spanners:
14mm (Whiteline RARB bolts/nuts if one is fitted)
16mm (rear shock lower bolts/nuts need replacing)
18mm (axle bush bolts/nuts),
19mm (home made bush installation tool)
Drill and Drill bits
Grease
WD40
Hacksaw
Home made Bush installation tool.

Trust me you need it or get the laser or Sealey item for VW.

Like this one :
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...atchlink:top:en

I could not justify the cost for one time use so made one up out of a long bolt couple of nuts from B&Q and some thick metal brackets from Wickes all costing approx £8

Parts Used

Rear Axle Bushes 6Q0 501 541E Skoda Fabia VRS Bush
Euro Car parts p/n 610780015 £24.86


Bolts and nuts Bush Bolt – N10409903 (x2)
Bush nut – N10106402 (x2)
Lower shock Bolt – N90517304 (x2)
Lower shock nut – N10286110 £11.70

I went with the Fabia VRS bush, as believe it or not is stronger than the Octy VRS one and more solid design

Here is a pic of the 2 side by side. Fabia then Octy

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/SNC00282Large.jpg

Here is a link to the VW site for more info and some alternative bushes to consider like the Leon Cupra R one although is very similar to the Fabia VRS one.

http://uk-mkivs.net/...spx?PageIndex=2

So here Goes.

The route I took was to jack car up and support both sides on axle stands (my axle stands have groove's in for the sills so could support on the still no worries)

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010089.jpg

I think I followed the manual to a certain extent but I did one side at a time, so I did not completely remove beam,

Thought I would show just how low the front end is with the back end jacked up. (Like a hover)

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010094.jpg

Here is the Axle bush and bolt shown that will be removed

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010096.jpg

Support the beam on the side you are working on with a trolley jack

Remove the lower shock bolt/nut (these will be replaced with p/n listed above) note I have a Whiteline RARB so that box bracket needs to be removed also.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010095.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010099.jpg

Now I unclipped rear handbrake cable from it’s position on the beam.
I then unclipped the metal brake line that is fitted into plastic clips along the rear beam to brake caliper, and then I prized off the brake line seating clip on the bracket that sits on the front of the beam, and used a hacksaw to carefully cut a slit through the bracket and bent it outwards slightly to allow the metal brake pipe to be moved out of the bracket so not to be strained when beam is lowered. This method stops the need to re bleed system.
Pic shown of bracket.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010103.jpg

With the lower shock bolts removed then undid the Axle bush bolt/nut and removed them

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010102.jpg

I lowered one side of beam on trolley jack which gives enough room to get to the bush. (checking any restrictions like brake lines were not being strained)

Pic shows the metal brake line out of it’s clips and the axle bush exposed

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010105.jpg

Drill out the rubber section in the old bush. I found gradually drilling these out and then whacking out the centre piece the best way after trying other options.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010135.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010107.jpg

Most of the VRS bushes are plastic sleeved so once the centre bit is out you can wedge a flat screwdriver between the sleeve and axle lip and tap it through this will collapse the sleeve and make it easier to knock out

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010137.jpg

Old section of bush and sleeve removed

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010110.jpg

Bush housing aperture cleaned up and greased ready for new bush.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010139.jpg

DIY install tool that is now needed

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010118.jpg

The new bush ( I used a Fabia VRS one which is the same style as the LCR and ICR) they are different part number and prices. As the golf forums are all using the fabia VRS ones I went with this. The standard Octy VRS bush is the same as the Golf ones that I checked out and there is a obvious difference between them and the Fabia ,LCR and ICR Bush. You can follow the link post above to see the options and description on the available bushes.

Also in page 4 of that link below it is CRUCIAL that you fit the bushes in the correct way. From inside of the beam outwards and the correct orientation of the bush inside the beam aperture.

see here:

http://uk-mkivs.net/...spx?PageIndex=4

The bushes were not going to go in without that DIY tool not in a million years. It is crucial to get the bush in centrally which took me a few goes of tightening it , undoing it and tapping it central and then once central the bush started to wind in. Used lots of grease to line the axle bush aperture and then lots of WD40 on the bush going in. Then when i reached the end on the DIY tool ( approx 30mm ) hammered home the rest of the bush to close the gap

Pic show the bush and install tool set and ready to tighten up to wind bush into slot

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010140.jpg

bush slowly going in

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010142.jpg

Fully home

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010143.jpg

Note the correct orientation of the bush(key slots) in the axle

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010122.jpg

Beam repositioned and new Bolt/nut fitted. (torque 33lbs, then turned further90’)

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/WaterFestivalStautonParkJuly2010125.jpg

Refit Lower shock with new bolt/nut( torque 44lbs although I ended up a little less as thought bolt would snap, checked and correct to manual, but seems too high to me?)

Refit the brake lines to there position and hand brake cables and job done.

Whilst car was in the air, the rear springs, RARB and shock's got a good clean and the Rear beam a scrape and waxoyl.

Well was the hard work worth it

I should say, as the car feels more planted and having had a few brisk runs no more banging and loose feel.

Hope this helps folks :thumbup:

This post has been edited by Bowders1: 31 July 2010 - 23:53

[RobClubley]

That's excellent, thanks for posting. After seeing the pics it's something I think I would try myself :)

[faboka vrs]

Another really useful diy bush guide.

[andy68]

Good write uphttp://ww1.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon-0148-yes.gif Going to have to do mine soon so this should help, bush wise may go with Superpro.

[Bowders1]

andy68, on 01 August 2010 - 07:30, said:

Good write uphttp://ww1.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon-0148-yes.gif Going to have to do mine soon so this should help, bush wise may go with Superpro.

cheers :thumbup:

Super pro will make the install a lot easier as they don't need pressing in and special tools. They come in 2 sections so you just knock in from both sides :thumbup:

[lumac999]

Hi Bowders

What prompted you to change these? I ask because I may have a similar problem. Car feels like it's fully loaded, or has flat tyres (even when it isn't) and handling is poor especially on corners. Is this a symptom of worn axle bushes? Thought it may be the shockers but they seem ok.

Thanks

[Bowders1]

lumac999, on 01 August 2010 - 09:30, said:

Hi Bowders

What prompted you to change these? I ask because I may have a similar problem. Car feels like it's fully loaded, or has flat tyres (even when it isn't) and handling is poor especially on corners. Is this a symptom of worn axle bushes? Thought it may be the shockers but they seem ok.

Thanks

Hi Buddy, Your symptons may not be axle bushes and just the average handling in the Octy chassis. I not sure how long you had your car and if you have had symptoms getting worse or your car has always been like that?

You could also have tired rear springs which would make car feel saggy and as it will be sitting slightly lower because of the sagging it will make the car rear end feel heavier. How many miles has the car done as shocks and springs can get tired after 60,000 mls.

I have had my motor 3.5 years and the know most of the cars trates now. I have uprated all the suspension / bushes / ARB's etc and the rear bushes was the only thing left to do. I guess stiffening the whole chassis has probably caused more stress on the rear bushes also.

The symptons i had to make me change them were:

1. Only thing left to change on the chassis
2. Noticable vagueness of handling at rear of car. It lost the positiveness it once had
3. A banging of the rear end over bumps. Instead of riding over them it felt like a thumping feeling
4. I can't stop messing with the car. :rofl:

For you i would consider changing Springs and possibly shocks

hope this helps

[lumac999]

Bowders1, on 01 August 2010 - 09:46, said:

Hi Buddy, Your symptons may not be axle bushes and just the average handling in the Octy chassis. I not sure how long you had your car and if you have had symptoms getting worse or your car has always been like that?

You could also have tired rear springs which would make car feel saggy and as it will be sitting slightly lower because of the sagging it will make the car rear end feel heavier. How many miles has the car done as shocks and springs can get tired after 60,000 mls.

I have had my motor 3.5 years and the know most of the cars trates now. I have uprated all the suspension / bushes / ARB's etc and the rear bushes was the only thing left to do. I guess stiffening the whole chassis has probably caused more stress on the rear bushes also.

The symptons i had to make me change them were:

1. Only thing left to change on the chassis
2. Noticable vagueness of handling at rear of car. It lost the positiveness it once had
3. A banging of the rear end over bumps. Instead of riding over them it felt like a thumping feeling
4. I can't stop messing with the car. :rofl:

For you i would consider changing Springs and possibly shocks

hope this helps

Thanks for the reply.

Had the car since March. Was handling good until a couple of weeks ago. Don't know if the springs or shocks have ever been done and car is now on 90,000 miles (I suspect it's been clocked although engine has no apparent issues and doesn't use oil so I'm not bothered really)

Will probably look at changing shocks anyway and while they are off the springs too. Will post again when I've done it.

[Oet]

nice job matey!!

[TeflonTom]

that's a really good guide you've written up there. well done!

[billy2981]

Once again Mark,

Well done thats ace, I now have the confidence to do mine.

cheers mate

[Bowders1]

billy2981, on 01 August 2010 - 14:11, said:

Once again Mark,

Well done thats ace, I now have the confidence to do mine.

cheers mate

Cheers buddy, If i have encouraged others to have a go then that is a bonus.

The Job is staight forward really, just need patience... :thumbup:

[billy2981]

Mark,
whats it like now? are they a great improvement over the std ones?

Also why do they need putting in a certain way?

billy

[Silver Bullet]

Brilliant "how to guide", the pictures are so very useful http://ww1.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon-0148-yes.gif

Peter

NB: "Note the correct orientation of the bush(key slots) in the axle" could you explain the reason please,

does something locate in the slots??. Thanks

This post has been edited by Silver Bullet: 01 August 2010 - 17:14

[chicken_eyebrow]

I reckon I could attempt this myself now - thanks for the guide, really well written mate :thumbup:

[countryboyhaha]

Sticky

[Bowders1]

billy2981, on 01 August 2010 - 17:03, said:

Mark,
whats it like now? are they a great improvement over the std ones?

Also why do they need putting in a certain way?

Billy

Hi Billy, the ride is much better now, more positive and i can feel the RARB doing what it is suposed to do.

Silver Bullet, on 01 August 2010 - 17:12, said:

Brilliant "how to guide", the pictures are so very useful http://ww1.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon-0148-yes.gif

Peter

NB: "Note the correct orientation of the bush(key slots) in the axle" could you explain the reason please,

does something locate in the slots??. Thanks

Cheers Peter , Billy

The bush needs to be installed in the correct way as it has voids(gaps) either side internally in the bush. The bush needs to be installed so that those voids are correct position in the rear beam. This has something to with the rebound transmitted through the bush. If there were no voids then the bush would be too solid and the rebound would cause very harsh ride. These voids take up the rebound.

Pic 1 shows where the voids are in the bush

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/Bushvoids.jpg

Pic 2 shows the standard VRS bush and the voids positioned to the axle(but same thing)

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Rear%20Axle%20Bush%20Replacement/Bushinstallguide.jpg

[RobClubley]

Bowders1, on 01 August 2010 - 09:46, said:

....
4. I can't stop messing with the car. :rofl:

...

I also have that problem :)

[Silver Bullet]

Thanks Mark,

your explanation much appreciatedhttp://ww1.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon-0148-yes.gif .

Peter

[Silver Bullet]

Sorry damn AOL

This post has been edited by Silver Bullet: 01 August 2010 - 20:56