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How to change Fabia fan speed resistor


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  • 2 weeks later...

That seams to be a quite good guide. :thumbup: One for the heater flap motor would be useful as well.

Can this be moved into the Guides section as there seams to be far too many stickies in the Fabia I section?

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good guide, just changed the resistor on the wifes fabia VRs

only thing i found it was not possible to remove the wiring plug, but there is just enough room to get it out with the plug still attached,

once you have the resistor out detach the plug, then put the new resistor back in place and then re-attach the plug,

the VRs has a cooled glove box which means there is a cooling hose which gets in the way, tuck it up out the way as you work but don't forget the pull it back down before putting the glove box back

Edited by bluecar1
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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

our blower now only works when on full, settings 2 and 3 don't blow any air, but 4 comes out too fast.. any ideas?

I know this is an old post but thought I'd answer it anyway :-)

The resistor is gone. It will work on the highest setting as the fan motor then uses the full 12 volts that the vehicle electrical system sends to it (resistor is redundant on this setting). 3,2 and 1 positions will reduce the voltage via the resistor by 3 volts each step slower (3rd position = 9 volts, 2nd position 6 volts etc.).

Hope this helps for anyone with the same problem.

Edited by skoda norm
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  • 7 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

I thought I'd just post in here to keep it up to date.

I have just changed this part today on my partners VRS.

We have owned the car for 18 months now, and speed 1 has never worked during that time, but all others have. I always suspected the resistor but it has pretty much lived with speed 2 switched on for the entire time we have owned it (she "likes to have a flow of air at all times"...?!) and it never failed - Having read a few similar stories on here it seemed the general consensus was they either all fail within a short time, leaving just speed 4, or it's not the resistor.

Since the better half is away for a few days and has left me with the car, I pulled the glove box out and removed the resistor. It had clearly failed (scorched looking, with visible broken windings, and no continuity on the pins for speed 1). I then tested the supply and definitely still had the 12V supply when speed 1 was activated.

Just popped out to TPS to collect some rear caliper springs (as per the 'sticking rear caliper' thread), and while I was there I picked up a replacement resistor. I had the old one as a pattern to make sure it was correct.

The part number (as read off the box in front of me now) is:

6Q0 959 263 A

The price was £37.17 including the VAT.

I have found them on eBay for around £10 to £20, but wanted to buy genuine, and wanted it there and then so I could plug it in before I even left the car park and make sure it worked. Which it did.

She should be happy now as she has been bugging me about it since I bought her the car!

Oh and I also changed the pollen filter while I was there as the old one was filthy and there was a handful of leaves wedged in behind it. (£13.86, also genuine from TPS).

Just for the record, I found it much easier to leave the wiring plugged in to remove it, but when fitting the new one I left it unplugged until last. Still a very fiddly job however.

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Hmm I've not had a working fan position one for about 18 months not and changed the resistor pack and the entire AC dash unit but it made no difference.

That said I did fit a second hand resistor pack albeit it was working correctly in the breaking car.

Many be I'll get a brand new one and see what happens.

Maybe I'll test it by stealing the one out of Mrs Pasty's car :D

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  • 1 year later...

Info at the locked topic http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/70883-heater-blower-resistor/ too.

 

Mine went in October.

 

I took the risk of buying a cheap one on eBay - cost £7.56 delivered.

 

Installed using the guide.

 

It's been fine - I didn't post immediately in case it failed but nearly three months later it's still performing so I hope it's OK.

 

Saved a lot of money compared to what others are paying. The part looked very similar to the original.

Edited by DRJ
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Was gonna comment one this, changed mine yesterday with the part off Amazon.

If you buy this very carefully compare the new and old part. They are slightly different in the fitting tabs, which I didn't realise for about an hour of trying to seat right.

Had to file down one tab and open up the other as the hole wasn't there. Will get pics if I remember.

Other than that, my advise would be remove the wiring after you've got it out of position and before you try and get it back in.

Part works fine though at the end of it I kinda wished I had got an original due to the pain in my hands!

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Anyone got the part number for the resistor? And some idea of price?

Later post did quote part no and price. BUT- has anyone got any any values of said resistor- value in OHMS, WATTAGE ,etc. Highest wattage resistor that likes of Maplin do is 7w @ approx £.8 .Big difference fron £30 , and to make a resistor of 14w, simply use two of twice the value and you've got a 14 W one. Cost = approx £1.60

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  • 1 year later...
Thisday   (Posted 18 January 2015 - 11:11)

If you buy this very carefully compare the new and old part. They are slightly different in the fitting tabs, which I didn't realise for about an hour of trying to seat right.

Had to file down one tab and open up the other as the hole wasn't there. Will get pics if I remember.

 

Thanks for that post Thisday.

 

Wish I had found it before I wasted hours and much blood yesterday trying to fasten the new part in - bought on eBay but it doesn't fit (for the reasons you describe).

 

TIP: Make sure you have got the new part in before you connect up the plug. I connected the plug first and can't get it off to file down the tabs as described above! (More blood expected!).

 

All in all, what a b****y stupid place to put something which is likely to need replacing!

 

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I forgot to say...

 

Useful instructions and photos at:http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/243587-heater-blower-resistor-change-help/

 

 

Andymod - Posted 11 July 2012 - 20:00
Hi mate, open the top glove box and remove the 2 torx screws. A pull outwards and the glovebox will come out of the dash. If you then look into the hole you will see 3 torx 30 screws. These hold the airbag frame in the dash. Remove the screws carefully (dont drop them behind the dash!). The cover will then come up out of the top of the dash but it will be quite tough to remove. Probably a good idea to disconnect the battery and then disconnect the airbag, make sure you dont have a static build up in your body, touch the door striker to make sure. Once the airbag is out of the way you can find the resistor down in the hole on top of the airbox. Its a bayonet fitting so twist it and it should come out, its a bit fiddly. Disconnect wiring fit new resistor and rebuild in reverse order. Reconnect battery and test.

 

Hearny - Posted 26 January 2014 - 09:07

I changed my resisitor yesterday. I have added these photos, after following the intructions in this thread.

Thanks for the help

Attached Files

 

 

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All in all, what a b****y stupid place to put something which is likely to need replacing!

 

The thing is that the resistor has to be inside the heater casing as the blower acts to cool it. A lot of resistor failures are caused by people letting the cabin filter become too dirty.

Edited by TMB
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TMB - thanks for reading my post

 

The thing is that the resistor has to be inside the heater casing as the blower acts to cool it. A lot of resistor failures are caused by people letting the cabin filter become too dirty.

But there must be other places which wouldn't give me cuts, scars and back ache!

The only sensible way to swap mine over would be to remove the windscreen, as unlike earlier photos my 2008 car has no slack in the cabling.

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TMB - thanks for reading my post

But there must be other places which wouldn't give me cuts, scars and back ache!

The only sensible way to swap mine over would be to remove the windscreen, as unlike earlier photos my 2008 car has no slack in the cabling.

 

Yes they are a bit of a pain, but hopefully you won't have to do it again in a hurry :)

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  • 2 years later...

Have just got an Fabia 2003 model with no blower speeds or aircon, thanks to this guide, £9, and twenty minutes fiddling I now have it all working again.

 

Thank you to all who contributed the advice

  • Like 1
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2 hours ago, totoro said:

Have just got an Fabia 2003 model with no blower speeds or aircon, thanks to this guide, £9, and twenty minutes fiddling I now have it all working again.

 

Thank you to all who contributed the advice

 

Nice one. Did you check that the cabin filter is in good order while you were at it? Clogged ones can cause the resistor to fail.

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16 minutes ago, TMB said:

 

Nice one. Did you check that the cabin filter is in good order while you were at it? Clogged ones can cause the resistor to fail.

I'd need to find out where that is first... the car has been well maintained with a full service history so I'm not too worried about filters at the moment. i've had the car a week or so and am getting to know it. 

A miscellaneous bonging noise got me perplexed today, realised it's a frost warning thing, I'm not used to 'modern' cars.

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