1.6 tdi cr fluid levels and more

[FZS1]

Hi,

I have taken delivery of a new 1.6tdi cr hatch. On opening the bonnet to check the fluid levels, I noticed that the black cover on top of the engine where the oil filler pokes through, has a large dark patch on it. I can only describe it like its had oil on it thats been wiped off. The hose from the radiator that runs underneath the right hand side of the cover had 2/3 miniscule drops of fluid on it. Any ideas? The oil is obviously put in at manufacture. The problem is, i don't know if there's a problem, or just spillage. Can I clean the cover - if so what with, or should I try and get it replaced under warranty ,or not worry about it? Oil level seems ok - dealer says to check it when cold, owners book says let the engine cool for a few minutes., then check - implying that it needs to be warm. I have done both , and the readings are different. Which method is right? Also, the coolant level is slap bang on the minimum mark, would have expected it to be on max. Two of my colleagues at work have the same engine in a Golf (sorry to mention that name!), and shortly after delivery the red temp light came on - lack of coolant - topped up by dealer, been ok since. I have checked my other colleagues car, and his coolant level is just below min (5k miles).

Beware of the oil type used at servicing time. I went to a dealer to buy a bottle of top up oil, which turned out to be the wrong type. On the bottle it actually said 'For vehicles fitted with a DPF use longlife III' Another dealer was unsure, as they haven't serviced a 1.6tdi CR engine that isn't on variable servicing, and as we know the Fabias are not. The theme was, why use expensive longlife oil when its going to be dumped every 10k? Skoda technical was also unsure, but phoned back to confirm what it says in the owners book - 507 !

[The Plumber]

If the levels are within limits I would just clean it up and monitor.

Regard cleaning the engine cover I tend to just whipe the cover down with an old shammy leather and warm water and to bring it up a bit I would use a bumper restorer silicon type spray.

Checking oil is usually done engine cold and should be in the hatched area on the stick towards the upper limit. CR Deisels on either QG1 or QG2 service regime need longlife VW507 00 specification oil. Not to important on the manufacturer just as long as this code is printed on the bottle.

Coolent I've often found to be on the low side from the factory but remember it's been topped up in a nice warm factory will drop a little in a cooler clime. I always topped this up with demin water myself as I live in a hard water area; tap waters got lime scale deposits in it. Would top up to just below the max line when cold.

Hope that's of help,

TP

[vwcabriolet1971]

507 spec oil is correct for latest Diesel CR engines with DPF - do not use anything else or you risk clogging up the DPF. Does seem strange that factory fill needed topping-up. You could pull off the engine cover and give it a wash with a mild washing-up liquid warm water mix but it won't be too long before road dirt gets at it.

[FZS1]

Thanks for the replies. Just to clarify, I haven't topped up the oil, I've just seen this stuff that looks like oil on the cover. I have no idea how it got there, or when. It might be spillage, or perhaps a problem? Does the cover literally lift off, or does anything need disconnecting/unbolting etc

[The Plumber]

Thanks for the replies. Just to clarify, I haven't topped up the oil, I've just seen this stuff that looks like oil on the cover. I have no idea how it got there, or when. It might be spillage, or perhaps a problem? Does the cover literally lift off, or does anything need disconnecting/unbolting etc

The covers normally just pull off, being held in place by metal pins through rubber grommets and yes some do have pipes attached. Would personnally leave in in place unless you really need to remove it, might end up loosing a grommet etc.

TP

[Guest]

FZ, the only thing I would add in addition to what the guys have rightly already said is concerning the oil level. The growing trend amongst manufacturers these days is to advise us to check the oil with the engine hot after standing for just a few minutes. The reason for this is due to the comparatively small amount of oil carried in the engine sump these days. My wife's Punto that we just go rid of held just 2.4litres of fully synthetic. Your 1.6cr holds more than that but still not very much more. Therefore, when running, the engine has substantially less oil reserve in the sump than most older cars which carried huge amounts in some cases. Therefore manufacturers want us to focus on the hot level after standing for a few minutes to make sure the hot running level is correct. This does mean if you check it when the engine is cold, the reading you get will not be too significant. If you check it hot after a few minutes standing on level ground (where quite a bit of oil is still in the upper parts of the engine and also clinging to the inside of every surface in the engine), the oil level should be just below the full mark or at the full mark. The manufacturers regard this hot check method as safer since if you check the level cold and it is at the minimum level, this means when hot it will be below the required oil level for safe running. On my TDI engine it makes a difference of just over 1/8th of an inch or 3.5mm to the level on the dipstick. In reality, it's not hugely critical as long as it's not overfull or showing below the minimum level at anytime hot or cold.

[FZS1]

FZ, the only thing I would add in addition to what the guys have rightly already said is concerning the oil level. The growing trend amongst manufacturers these days is to advise us to check the oil with the engine hot after standing for just a few minutes. The reason for this is due to the comparatively small amount of oil carried in the engine sump these days. My wife's Punto that we just go rid of held just 2.4litres of fully synthetic. Your 1.6cr holds more than that but still not very much more. Therefore, when running, the engine has substantially less oil reserve in the sump than most older cars which carried huge amounts in some cases. Therefore manufacturers want us to focus on the hot level after standing for a few minutes to make sure the hot running level is correct. This does mean if you check it when the engine is cold, the reading you get will not be too significant. If you check it hot after a few minutes standing on level ground (where quite a bit of oil is still in the upper parts of the engine and also clinging to the inside of every surface in the engine), the oil level should be just below the full mark or at the full mark. The manufacturers regard this hot check method as safer since if you check the level cold and it is at the minimum level, this means when hot it will be below the required oil level for safe running. On my TDI engine it makes a difference of just over 1/8th of an inch or 3.5mm to the level on the dipstick. In reality, it's not hugely critical as long as it's not overfull or showing below the minimum level at anytime hot or cold.

Thanks Estate Man. Crikey, It won't take much oil to top up within the mesh lines then - 1-2 eggcups only maybe. So in theory, if I check the oil when the engine is warm and the level is below he max mark, and top it up to the max mark, and I later check it from cold the level, it will show above the max mark, but thats ok? Maybe middle for diddle within top and bottom is best, or top up to max level when cold, thereby just below max when warm. Any notion as to how this fluid (oil I think) got on top of the engine cover in the first place? Dealer only has record of PDI being done, not what was done. Am I within my rights to ask for a new cover, or am I being OTT. I don't mind too much if it cleans up ok, but if it doesn't and I mess it up ............ I used to own a Fazer Thou, and the oil level check on that was done when hot - didn't worry about it though, just got on with it - what is it with cars?

[The Plumber]

Thanks Estate Man. Crikey, It won't take much oil to top up within the mesh lines then - 1-2 eggcups only maybe. So in theory, if I check the oil when the engine is warm and the level is below he max mark, and top it up to the max mark, and I later check it from cold the level, it will show above the max mark, but thats ok? Maybe middle for diddle within top and bottom is best, or top up to max level when cold, thereby just below max when warm. Any notion as to how this fluid (oil I think) got on top of the engine cover in the first place? Dealer only has record of PDI being done, not what was done. Am I within my rights to ask for a new cover, or am I being OTT. I don't mind too much if it cleans up ok, but if it doesn't and I mess it up ............ I used to own a Fazer Thou, and the oil level check on that was done when hot - didn't worry about it though, just got on with it - what is it with cars?

Hi again,

the mark on the engine cover could quite easily be a small spill from a quick top up or without seeing it of course where the technician has rested their big oily 'mit' or lift an oily rag. Would honestly be not concerned about it.

Have read the latest manual it does indeed suggest checking the engine warm as correctly pointed out by Estate Man with the exception of the 1.2 6v. If you look at the handbook and the dip stick itself then you will see there are three areas a, b & c; as long as it's as a minimum in the top of area b (hatched area) it should be fine. Would suggest you take a reading cold and then another warm as described in the book and compare the difference. Give you a feel for what is the right level for your car.

TP

[Guest]

That's good advice Plumber, to check the level when hot and cold to orientate ourselves better with the level.

FZ1, I know what you mean about the bike. My bikes all need a hot check to get the oil level correct. Seems easier on the bike though!