Hi guys,

I have trawled through numerous posts regarding what's the best sealant to use.

Some are against the use of silicone as it can be a nightmare to remove if water ingress occurs again, also there is an argument that it should not be used as it reacts with water...

Can anyone here recommend a decent/good quality sealant so i can do these doors once my wife gets back from work...

Best Regards

Don

Edited 8 September, 201015 yr by Beancounter1980

Just in case the image fails.. Uni bond window and door sealant. This is what I used and the back doors haven't leaked since.. over a year.. my front drivers still leaks but i'm not convinced it's my seal that's gone. I actually think it's the 3 little wall plug style clips that are letting water through or past.

It's not silicon based, will stick in damp conditions and likes metal, wood and plastic surfaces,

Amazons Description

A superior performance siliconised polyurethane sealant for sealing interior and exterior door and window frames.It provides superior weather protection, will bond to damp surfaces and is UV resistant. Suitable for use on metal, wood and uPVC frames, cladding and plastic sheeting and can be painted. Comes with a 35-year guarantee

The other sealant I've heard people have had success with is the drain pipe sealant stuff, which figures.

Edited 8 September, 201015 yr by Rob.

Brilliant...

Many thanks, I'll head out and buy some

Will white bathroom sealant stuff do? I think I have some spare stuff laying around.

.

Bought some of this recently http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+Sealants/Sealants/Roof+Gutter+Sealant+300+ml/d180/sd2350/p11002 Roof and Gutter sealant 300ml £1.51

Hi guys,

I have trawled through numerous posts regarding what's the best sealant to use.

Some are against the use of silicone as it can be a nightmare to remove if water ingress occurs again, also there is an argument that it should not be used as it reacts with water...

Can anyone here recommend a decent/good quality sealant so i can do these doors once my wife gets back from work...

Best Regards

Don

I believe the answer to your question ,is not what you use,but how well you do the job!. I did both rear doors over 5 years ago with everyday clear silicone sealant which cost 99p for 310 mlts. I have stopped the leaks, which to this date have not come back!. (I also trawled before I did the job). The pictures I saw ,and desciptions, I noticed they were not fully removing the carrier.The black sealant looked like it was applied with a trowel! .I removed the carrier completely,applied sealant on the original poor seal ,then applied more sealant on the join ,after replacing the carrier . I hope this helps.

Edited 8 September, 201015 yr by AndyPandy

I believe the answer to your question ,is not what you use,but how well you do the job!. I did both rear doors over 5 years ago with everyday clear silicone sealant which cost 99p for 310 mlts. I have stopped the leaks, which to this date have not come back!. (I also trawled before I did the job). The pictures I saw ,and desciptions, I noticed they were not fully removing the carrier.The black sealant looked like it was applied with a trowel! .I removed the carrier completely,applied sealant on the original poor seal ,then applied more sealant on the join ,after replacing the carrier . I hope this helps.

Removing the carrier? I assume by carrier you mean the metal plate that sits on the metal door on the inside?

I think mine is attached by rivets. Which makes the job very difficult..

When I did mine I made a huge effort to get from the painted door, over the foam seal and then up and over the edge of the aluminum carrier with a good amount of sealant.

The aluminium is the least sticky part so unless you get a good covering the repair won't last long.... it's all in the post applying smoothing, using soapy water and a latex glove.. this part you can NOT skip.. the whole repair hangs on the sealant being smoothed into and over the edges.

When I did mine I made a huge effort to get from the painted door, over the foam seal and then up and over the edge of the aluminum carrier with a good amount of sealant.

The aluminium is the least sticky part so unless you get a good covering the repair won't last long.... it's all in the post applying smoothing, using soapy water and a latex glove.. this part you can NOT skip.. the whole repair hangs on the sealant being smoothed into and over the edges.

The best stuff is sikaflex, you can get this in black and is basically the same as the Skoda issued stuff. Much better than home barthroom sealants as will allow for a little more flex,

I'm going to be using this ----> http://www.shell.com/home/content/bitumen/products/shell_tixophalte/

It stays flexible permanently.

Most importantly it sticks to surfaces that are already wet.

The main problem with silicone is the joint has to be BONE DRY

before you start or it will not stick.

No such problems with this stuff.. It can even be applied underwater

I'm going to be using this ----> http://www.shell.com/home/content/bitumen/products/shell_tixophalte/

Any ideas where to buy Shell Tixophalte? Cannot find on ebay or via Google anywhere to buy.

Any ideas where to buy Shell Tixophalte? Cannot find on ebay or via Google anywhere to buy.

Chesterfelt seem to be a stockist, that's where I got the link from.

Here's a link to the page I found

http://www.chesterfelt.co.uk/proddisp.asp?category=6

I nicked a few tubes from where I used to work (Building company)

when a load came back from a job left over. Sticks like **** to a blanket

I'm told. I know my firm had to order it in from somewhere so it's out there.

I have no idea of price, but I'd expect it to be more expensive than silicone.

£5-£8 a tube would probably be the ball park sort of price.

I'd allow half a tube per door minimum.

But at least you won't have to dry the area thoroughly before sealing

which is what I'd recommend to anybody using silicone. I reckon that's

why a lot of the silicone repairs need doing more than once.

Edited 8 September, 201015 yr by grr666

U-pol tiger seal.

Made for the job in question...

My link

i tried various different ones and eventually found this stuff sealed it after a few attempts with other products

U-pol tiger seal.

Made for the job in question...

My link

Polyurethane sealant, hope you never need the windows replacing or any work done inside the door carriers, that stuff will be a bugger to get off. Guaranteed to keep the water out though, lol.

Polyurethane sealant, hope you never need the windows replacing or any work done inside the door carriers, that stuff will be a bugger to get off. Guaranteed to keep the water out though, lol.

That U-POL tiger seal was the stuff that I was thinking about buying - I suppose its a balancing act - ie stop the water getting in properly or use something less effective just in case the carrier needs removing easily.

Polyurethane sealant, hope you never need the windows replacing or any work done inside the door carriers, that stuff will be a bugger to get off. Guaranteed to keep the water out though, lol.

Possibly true but it was recommended by a bodyshop which is why I used it. Besides - a stanley knife will soon sort it ...

U-pol tiger seal.

Made for the job in question...

My link

Agreed.

You can get it here

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tiger-Seal-Polyurethane-Adhesive-Sealant-Black_W0QQitemZ180547347489QQihZ008QQcategoryZ30923QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

for £8 a tube delivered.

Very good adhesion and remains rubbery. It's also very good on plastic panels

Removing the carrier? I assume by carrier you mean the metal plate that sits on the metal door on the inside?

I think mine is attached by rivets. Which makes the job very difficult..

The metal plate on my car ,called the carrier (found out on the Briskoda Forum) is made of galvanised steel,and fixed with 10 off 6mm bolts. I think it all depends on how many times you want to do the job,when you do not take off the panel completely. Any work on the window winder,door lock ,speaker wiring,or fitting different speakers will need the carrier off.

Some are held on with rivets (2005 onwards I think) and need to be drilled out.

Update:

I have found the reason for the leaking...

The sod of a previous owner had ripped out all his audio equipment when selling it and in doing so did not bother to seal the door cards back on...

Idiot!

Yup, Same thing with the previous of mine... He left it all in, but I had to deal with mouldy mdf rings letting water seep through.

I may be finally getting on with this job next week.

I have some more Tixophalte on the way from my

"special"supplier. The tubes I already have are buried

somewhere in my storage unit in Bristol, and it's too much like hard work

trying to dig it out. I have no idea which of the 100 odd boxes they are in??

Looking forward to finally taking down the curtains...

I used black silicone on mine and its worked a treat! piece of **** to do too! was one of the first jobs i did on mine as the damp smell in a 'new car' was annoying the hell out of me!

Looking forward to finally taking down the curtains...

Just in case anybody wasn't sure what I'm banging on about...

I've had them in for about 6 months. Classy! But... The inside has totally dried out now.

It was terrible before I did this even in light rain. Damp smell has gone and

very little condensation in the car. A great temporary fix to get the car dried out

before doing the sealing. I'm off to pick up my tixophalte gunge tonight.

Nice dry day forecast for tomorrow. So it may be the day to get this fixed once and for all. :yes:

I will happily donate my curtains to anybody who wants them when the doors are fixed.

oh... and they add 10bhp :rofl:

Edited 13 September, 201015 yr by grr666