hi

I removed the Pierburg 2E-3 carburettor from my car to clean it thoroughly of all the gum/rust/oil/etc deposits. 

So I did that successfully. But now it comes the tricky part: the assembly. Although I have a scanned version of the Felicia Haynes service manual with all the exploded view charts and adjustments... putting all back in the right order is not described anywhere.

So I am asking for your help. It would mean a lot to me having the relevant pages from The Haynes Manual on Carburettors since I don't have access to it.

Please scan for me the pages referring to Pierburg 2E-3 carburettor.

Thank you.

hi

I removed the Pierburg 2E-3 carburettor from my car to clean it thoroughly of all the gum/rust/oil/etc deposits. 

So I did that successfully. But now it comes the tricky part: the assembly. Although I have a scanned version of the Felicia Haynes service manual with all the exploded view charts and adjustments... putting all back in the right order is not described anywhere.

So I am asking for your help. It would mean a lot to me having the relevant pages from The Haynes Manual on Carburettors since I don't have access to it.

Please scan for me the pages referring to Pierburg 2E-3 carburettor.

Thank you.

I'll try to find a scanner and give it a go.

I am very grateful

Looking forward for it...  

Scanning at 150 dpi and save as JPG will do just nice.

I am very grateful

Looking forward for it...  

Scanning at 150 dpi and save as JPG will do just nice.

Could only manage PDF (work's scanner, I don't have one). Quality isn't great but have a go.8.zip. Some pages are upside down, and it's hard to get a book flat on the scanner in the limited time I had (lunchtime). If any one page isn't clear enough let me know.

Edited 4 October, 201015 yr by cjb

 Thank you, cjb, for scanning those pages. I understand it is hard to press the book to get all text visible in the middle.

There are 2 problems though:

- page F6-17 was scanned twice (with/without a folded corner), instead of page F6-18, which I believe is the last one.

- scanning as black/white renders most photos useless; you should scan all pages as grayscale.

I could help you tomorrow with more scanning tips if you tell me what scanner you got at work; please contact me on Yahoo (my ID is romasstero). I will keep my carb apart till getting the Pierburg vital data from you. This carb is such a precision mechanism; the difference between working/not working properly is measured in 1/1000 of an inch...

 Thank you, cjb, for scanning those pages. I understand it is hard to press the book to get all text visible in the middle.

There are 2 problems though:

- page F6-17 was scanned twice (with/without a folded corner), instead of page F6-18, which I believe is the last one.

- scanning as black/white renders most photos useless; you should scan all pages as grayscale.

I could help you tomorrow with more scanning tips if you tell me what scanner you got at work; please contact me on Yahoo (my ID is romasstero). I will keep my carb apart till getting the Pierburg vital data from you. This carb is such a precision mechanism; the difference between working/not working properly is measured in 1/1000 of an inch...

I'll give it another go tomorrow at work, or see if I can borrow a standalone scanner. The one I used was a shared hp copier/scanner, so no preview, limited adjustments, and limited time. If I can borrow something standalone I'll spend a bit longer, but it won't be until tomorrow night at the earliest. Can't spend too much time doing it when I should be working

Can't spend too much time doing it when I should be working  

wow... we do the opposite in here. I guess we should borrow some appetite for work  :yes:

wow... we do the opposite in here. I guess we should borrow some appetite for work  :yes:

I have to set a good example

OK, I've rescanned with a normal scanner. They are much better. I don't think they'll fit in the upload limit here, so download them from here. Let me know when you have them.

There's not a skoda spplication listed, but I guess the VW Polo one will do.

Edited 5 October, 201015 yr by cjb

yep, it is much better. exactly how I wanted. thanks a bunch, cjb.

now I have no excuse to get dirty

I'll get back with details.

cheers

I installed the carburetor. It is squeaky clean and started just about well.

A few issues though: the engine has a slightly irregular idle. My plan is this: warm up the engine, rotate the distributor to get the highest smooth idle, then reduce the mixture till I still got a smooth idle, then adjust the idle to 800 rot/min.

My only concern is about any intake air leaks... that might produce an irregular idle, I suppose.

On the other hand, I haven't installed the air cleaner duct to be able to adjust the carb, and I think that without any hot air intake the fuel burns slower.

Any thoughts about my strategy for tweaking the idle speed ? Your advice is welcome.

I installed the carburetor. It is squeaky clean and started just about well.

Good.

A few issues though: the engine has a slightly irregular idle. My plan is this: warm up the engine, rotate the distributor to get the highest smooth idle, then reduce the mixture till I still got a smooth idle, then adjust the idle to 800 rot/min.

Do you mean distributor? If so, leave it where it is for now.

My only concern is about any intake air leaks... that might produce an irregular idle, I suppose.

On the other hand, I haven't installed the air cleaner duct to be able to adjust the carb, and I think that without any hot air intake the fuel burns slower.

Unless it's very cold, or cold and damp, then the hot air intake won't make much difference. It's there to stop carb icing. If the mixture is way out it will be uneven., and yes, leaks will do that. You can sometimes find a leak by spraying carb cleaner, WD-40, or plusgas around the joins while the engine is running- if it gets drawn into a leak, the idle will change.

Any thoughts about my strategy for tweaking the idle speed ? Your advice is welcome.

First of all, be sure you don't have a misfire from another source (like a dodgy plug, or HT lead, for example. Was the car running badly before you had the carb off?

As a general guide, you want to set the idle speed to the high end of the spec with the idle speed screw, then adjust the idle mixture screw until the speed is at it's highest. Once that's stable, screw the mixture screw in to reduce the idle speed by 25rpm (probably around 1/2 turn or so), then adjust the idle speed to the correct level with the speed screw. Really, you should adjust the mixture screw using a CO meter, but I'll bet you don't have one :-). Turning the screw in weakens the mixture.

Edited 11 October, 201015 yr by cjb

Unless it's very cold, or cold and damp, then the hot air intake won't make much difference. It's there to stop carb icing.

I was thinking more about bad fuel vaporization but I guess you know better.

If the mixture is way out it will be uneven., and yes, leaks will do that. You can sometimes find a leak by spraying carb cleaner, WD-40, or plusgas around the joins while the engine is running- if it gets drawn into a leak, the idle will change.

I'll test that especially around bottom metal/rubber flange. it was replaced with a new one but I didn't find what torque I should apply on those screws. cooked flange

First of all, be sure you don't have a misfire from another source (like a dodgy plug, or HT lead, for example. Was the car running badly before you had the carb off?

no.

As a general guide, you want to set the idle speed to the high end of the spec with the idle speed screw, then adjust the idle mixture screw until the speed is at it's highest. Once that's stable, screw the mixture screw in to reduce the idle speed by 25rpm (probably around 1/2 turn or so), then adjust the idle speed to the correct level with the speed screw. Really, you should adjust the mixture screw using a CO meter, but I'll bet you don't have one :-). Turning the screw in weakens the mixture.

wicked. I'll do that. and yes, you guessed it right, the last time I checked, there was no CO meter in my toolbox .

one more question about a 'legend' concerning the engine computer: is it true that it takes a while to 'learn' the new settings and self-adjust properly ? I think I read about it even in our forum...

Edited 11 October, 201015 yr by masster

I was thinking more about bad fuel vaporization but I guess you know better.

It'd have to be quite cold for that to be a factor, but your theory is correct.

one more question about a 'legend' concerning the engine computer: is it true that it takes a while to 'learn' the new settings and self-adjust properly ? I think I read about it even in our forum...

Not sure. More advanced ECUs do, but I'm not that familiar with the setup in the Felicia.

adjusting the ignition to the fastest idle will give you 2-4 degrees advance, (0-2 + 2-4 = 2-6 initial ignition advance) that will give you a vacuum reading of 22 and will knock on load / acceleration

adjusting the ignition to the fastest idle will give you 2-4 degrees advance, (0-2 + 2-4 = 2-6 initial ignition advance) that will give you a vacuum reading of 22 and will knock on load / acceleration

true. I will better fit my car with what doctor (Cepheuz) ordered: a lambda sensor, a fuel mixture qauge and most importantly a vacuum gauge.

because I found out that so called new rubber/metal flange is a piece of s*** made of a too hard and brittle rubber that didn't get a tight fit on intake manifold whatsoever. damn third party (under license) parts...

so guess what? I put back the cooked flange (see photo above) and the engine is purring 10x better. not perfect, but way better. and what is making me very happy is that my work on cleaning the carb worths every penny: the car is flying

if only I could find an original czech/german flange without costing me a kidney (or as you say, an arm and a leg) ...

I have assembled an archive with cjb's pages as PDF and 18 more photos of adjustments for the Pierburg 2E3 - Jikov 28-30 LEKR carburetors.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=I8AYRK0S

so how is the car running now ?

so how is the car running now ?

I have the long list of to-do things from you (thank you! very documented) but weather is bad in here (rain and cold) and I have no garage, so I am waiting for a sunny day to work on my Felicia.

meanwhile I ordered this item because I had no such tool and I am looking also for a good strobe lamp with a digital rpm meter.

I am also trying to find a suitable gasket material to seal those leaks around my metal/rubber flange/carburetor support. it has to be heat and fuel resistant.

I will make and upload a video on YouTube after all is done.

P.S. you can PM me in Spanish, I believe it is your native language.

here is a follow-up:

it turns out that I have also a vacuum leak around inlet/exhaust manifold gasket. so I need to install a new one.

but I couldn't find any help on Haynes manual about removing/installing that gasket. and it looks quite tricky...

can anyone tell me what steps do i have to follow, please ?

It's fairly straightforward - remove the downpipe from the manifold (4 nuts, make sure you soak them in penetrating fluid first), then remove the inlet manifold (carb first, which you've already done) - it's 6 M8 nuts for that, plus possibly a support bracket. Then it's just the 6 nuts that hold the exhaust manifold in place, and away you go. Shouldn't take long, providing nothing shears off.

However, the exhaust manifold to downpipe studs are often very rusty, and I've sheared one or two off, ending up replacing them, which takes a bit longer.

thank you.

yep, shearing studs is what I'm afraid of too. so I will keep WD40 handy.

on the other hand, I might need a torque wrench, right ? for tightening those nuts. and I don't have one   

one last Q: any order for tightening nuts?

Edited 3 November, 201015 yr by masster

update

I changed the manifold gasket, all went well. didn't shear any stud 

I put the new type carburettor support also (made of 3 parts: cardboard gasket, metal plate, plastic flange + 2 more included gaskets).

so far, so good. I flushed the mud (yes!) from the cooling system and filled with 50% - 50% antifreeze solution.

the engine is purring nicely at idle. big thanks to cepheuz for PM's, they were of great help.

the only thing left is to see why the engine tends to stall when I press quickly and repeatedly on the brake pedal at idle.

1way vacuum valve maybe ?

the only thing left is to see why the engine tends to stall when I press quickly and repeatedly on the brake pedal at idle.

1way vacuum valve maybe ?

That or a leaky vacuum hose or servo. Valve or hose most likely.

That or a leaky vacuum hose or servo. Valve or hose most likely.

but I can't get out the hose from brake booster - see image. it looks glued...