First post:

I'm in the market for a VRS. Up until now I've had Punto HGT diesels (2 of) a VW T4 and a VW Caddy, looking now the VRS seems to be the best balance between fuel economy and fantastic torque based diesely fun!

One of my mates through uni frequented these forums and took me for a spin numerous times in his re-mapped, mod'd up VRS but I can distinctly remember when he got a Jabbsport rear anti roll bar fitted and thinking the car felt incredibly controllable (either that or his driving imrpoved in a day).

However speaking to other mates they seem paranoid about lift off oversteer, especially when things get slippy. Whilst this doesn't concern me too much (apart from one bend that always catches me out!) I'm a bit worried about my better half lifting off mid corner and getting a nasty surprise, can anyone give me any information (I have had a search, on pro's and con's of the arb? (is there a group buy on anymore?)

Secondly I've got a few remap questons:

Having owned two Punto HGT diesels I'm fairly convinced the first one had been re-mapped, it smoked more, it seemed quicker ( I test drove a tonne before buying the second one) and the traction control light kicked in more often plus fuel economy was much better (avg 62mpg over its life compared to 56 from the 2nd). I'm looking at two VRS's, one has had a remap already (dyno'd at 173 bhp and 320 lb/ft) from evolutionchips (I couldn't find any specific vrs feedback on that company?) the other hasnt (I'd be tempted to add it). I'm leaning towards the pre-mapped one if people give it the green light simply because it has a few extra's I'd prefer but its had a new clutch and flywheel at 40k (v. early but BEFORE the map)

Can anyone tell me how much their premium increased with a 40 bhp increase? The policy I'll switch from allows mods so declaring it all isn't an issue at all

Thanks and sorry for the long introduction.

I can't wait to get a VRS my family turn their noses up at Skoda's, idiots.

I've driven my car hard, very hard, and only once or twice has the rear let go when lifting off around a corner. When it did it was very controllable and only a little step out. It's worth the risk and if you can drive and expect it then I'd say go for it.

A remap generally means the owner wanted more power and possibly drove it harder than someone who was happy with its standard power but on the other hand someone modifying a car can sometimes care more about the car than someone just leaving it as it is. I've personally never heard of that company but they're the usual range of figures and bonus if it's got a print out. If there's no clutch slippage and it pulls well all the way through then I don't see a problem.

Good choice with the vRS and welcome to the forum.

Good choice with the vRS and welcome to the forum.

Thanks!

The thing is, the map was done AFTER all the work (done under warranty) I'm just a bit worried as to what would have caused that in under 40k and what else I should look at?

I might be being a dunce here but are there any damn obvious tests for looking for clutch slippage or signs of the map doing damage? (and apart from wet floors are there any other VRS specific pitfalls I should look out for?).

The thing is, the map was done AFTER all the work (done under warranty) I'm just a bit worried as to what would have caused that in under 40k and what else I should look at?

Sorry mate I scan read your post. If a car has been driven hard and launched a lot a clutch can be burnt a lot earlier than it's expected life. On my bike I used to change clutches monthly due to wheelies and stuff, I know it's a bit different but it can still apply here. It does imply that the car has been driven harder than expected though but again that's not always a bad thing, I'd sooner buy a car that's been driven and taken on track now and again but also maintained, warmed up, cooled down and cared about with a money no object view than a granny driving it slow, doing no maintained and seeing it as nothing but a form of transports.

I might be being a dunce here but are there any damn obvious tests for looking for clutch slippage or signs of the map doing damage? (and apart from wet floors are there any other VRS specific pitfalls I should look out for?).

I'm no expert but it should produce the most torque low down so change into 6th early and floor it right from 500rpm all the way through and see if it slips I guess but if it was changed only a bit ago it shouldn't!

One of my mates through uni frequented these forums and took me for a spin numerous times in his re-mapped, mod'd up VRS but I can distinctly remember when he got a Jabbsport rear anti roll bar fitted and thinking the car felt incredibly controllable (either that or his driving imrpoved in a day).

However speaking to other mates they seem paranoid about lift off oversteer, especially when things get slippy. Whilst this doesn't concern me too much (apart from one bend that always catches me out!) I'm a bit worried about my better half lifting off mid corner and getting a nasty surprise, can anyone give me any information (I have had a search, on pro's and con's of the arb? (is there a group buy on anymore?)

The Jabba ARB doesn't give rise to lift-off oversteer. What it does do is make the car less prone to understeer so that the back end is more prone to break away first. What this means is that when you barrel into a corner too fast you go backwards into the hedge rather than understeering into it forwards.

I've spun mine, but it was my fault. The RARB makes the car work so well you feel it will go around almost anything (and it won't!). You do have to be driving VERY hard to get it to do it though. I very much doubt your batter half will ever get to within 75% of the breakaway envelope (apologies if she's a police response driver or something, but then you wouldn't be worried heh?).

Personally I honestly wouldn't worry about any lift oversteer unless you plan on a bit of track action - IMHO you'd have to be driving you'r car very hard to induce any loss of grip from the rear and you'd probably struggle to find a clear enough road these days! Like VRS Turbo I've only ever felt the rear slip a couple of times, 1) on a track and 2) in the snow last year.

As for the clutch It wouldn't concern me too much, I would expect it to be sound if it was changed at 40k. I had to have mine swapped at 64k after my stage 1 revo as it started slipping within a week, being the second owner though I don't know what it was driven like before but it's certainly looked after now!

Welcome aboard.

John

Would you be worried about lift of oversteer if you bought a Renault hot hatch or old skool pug?

Would you be worried about lift of oversteer if you bought a Renault hot hatch or old skool pug?

Thanks for the replies

Just drove an example nearer home, everything seemd fine apart from the steering, it all felt really twitchy. It might just be more responsive thant the last few vehicles I've had but it didn't seem quite right?

maybe the rear wishbone (console) bushes needed replaceing? Simple test is put your foot on the front of the wheel and see if you can push it back. If it moves they need replacing which from a garage will be around £200.

the rear arb is a good mod it reduces that bouncy feel also improves grip which enables you to corner faster and safer without worrying your going to lose controll.

i wouldn't advice flooring it in 6th or in any gear at low revs if you have had a remap though thats were things start to go pop. ( if your on standard clutch etc.)

Struggling to pick between two motors, both same price

1) 2005 plate 40K, New Clutch, Flywheel, Discs + Pads BEFORE 170BHP map, Full leather (not yet viewed)

2)2006 19k Miles

I just can't get my head around why (1) would've needed all that work doing at such a young age? 2 has the odd scuff but nothing a bit of T-cut shouldn't sort out (viewed by my helpful folks)

anyone care to wade in?

No matter how may miles the vRS has on , the clutch can go at any time

I have seen them with next to no miles on the clock , and some (that have been mapped) with loads of miles on and no issues

The issues come with how they are driven

Accelerating in 6th I always described as being like the crossing of Ghostbuster streams , you dont do it LOL

That alone can give alot of wear on the clutch

The flwheel (DMF , dual mass flywheel) is also common , as that will wear with the clutch

If it is a nice map , you will feel the torque all the way through

You also will be mapping , so how much will that cost too , you dont have to do it with the newer one

Alot of people think a car with less miles on is good , me I think it has been run for a few miles per week and stopped for a few days

Cars do not like that , give it 50 miles per day every day , the engine , exhaust and alot of other bits love that

Good look in your search

I have a PD 100 , mapped to 141 with 203k miles on , she is still on her origional clutch too

love her to bits too

sarah

Oooh and the rear ARB!!!!!!! STUNNING , tyhat has to be THE only word for that mod

definately , it is chalk and cheese

I had the whiteline one (alot cheaper than others) plus it is adjustable

THAT alone with the map has been the best mods

Sarah

Thanks for that, new clutch, flywheel, discs and pads suggests to me its had a hard life from its previous owner but with all that replaced is it just a rattly engine on startup that I'd be looking out for?

Today also converted my folks to the VRS which is a good thing as their wise cracks have started wearing thin :wonder:

Cool re: the ARB! If I buy an un-modded one I'll leave it all until March when this policy runs out as the difference between the year premium isn't much, upgrading my policy for 4 months costs the same!

Edited 26 November, 201015 yr by Paul Bennett

i would go for the 2006 with 19k

I would be more concerned that the map is 320 ft of torque, the standard Clutch is good until about 300ft. I am very surprised no one else has picked up on that, IMO the mapped one sounds as if it has been driven quite hard. I completly agree with the above quote. I think you would be better off buying a well looked after one owner 40/50k fsh 05 plate or so, then get the eibach springs, arb and map yourself I find nothing more satisfy than doing your own work on a car. Never brought a car that has had a single mod and I am pleased. You never know what can happen once people start playing with it

I don't mean to put you off, but they are fantastic cars, would be a shame to get a rubbish one

Hmmmm, So stage 1's stay below 300 lb/ft usually?

Indeed, look at all the site sponsors there stage one map is usually between 280-300 ft of tourque

I would be more concerned that the map is 320 ft of torque, the standard Clutch is good until about 300ft. I am very surprised no one else has picked up on that, IMO the mapped one sounds as if it has been driven quite hard. I completly agree with the above quote. I think you would be better off buying a well looked after one owner 40/50k fsh 05 plate or so, then get the eibach springs, arb and map yourself I find nothing more satisfy than doing your own work on a car. Never brought a car that has had a single mod and I am pleased. You never know what can happen once people start playing with it

I don't mean to put you off, but they are fantastic cars, would be a shame to get a rubbish one

+1 on this. I would personally think that 320 ft of torque is too much. However, if when the clutch and flywheel were changed they uprated them to sachs helix clutch (i think) and SMF (again, i think), then the clutch and fly wheel should last to be honest. People normally say if you go above 300 ft of torque then you need to uprate these two.

I would be very wary, and probably be more inclined to go for a non-modified version. You can get a remap done by a reputable company, and there is a plethora of information on here about good companies to go to for remaps.

Hope that helps.

Edited 27 November, 201015 yr by Bezzy

Tried them both.

Bought neither for different reasons.

Currently got another dilemna between which to see tomorrow, one sporting Briskoda, The ring and Jabbasport badges at a seat dealership who don't think its had a map (really? Anyone know which member might have owned it FG06 HOH?)

and another one that looks more normal.

We've both been quite amazed by how much "Stunning condition" has varied so far from the 3 we've looked at/driven!

IMO, i`d always prefer to buy a bog standard one, as said by someone else, i like to do all the mods myself, and pick who does them. If your going for a already modified one, i`d rather buy it via somewhere like here, or private, that way you can asses what the owners like, how much they know, who done the mods, and maybe get them to take you for a spin to see how they drive it. Sounds extreme but a new clutch and flywheel will cost £1000, and a turbo another few hundred quid which will both need doing if its been abused.

Matt

Tried them both.

Bought neither for different reasons.

Currently got another dilemna between which to see tomorrow, one sporting Briskoda, The ring and Jabbasport badges at a seat dealership who don't think its had a map (really? Anyone know which member might have owned it FG06 HOH?)

and another one that looks more normal.

We've both been quite amazed by how much "Stunning condition" has varied so far from the 3 we've looked at/driven!

Luckily for you, I had a read of this thread earlier... see here

Don't be immediately put off by the list of faults which has been given. Find out how to check them, and use it to get the price down, or tell them to get the faults fixed before buying, and you could get yourself a bargain. You could always contact the member by PM, I'm sure they'll give you some idea of whether you should buy it or not.

HTH

Oh and check here:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/182101-its-weird-seeing-your-old-car-like-this/

matt

Oh and check here:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/182101-its-weird-seeing-your-old-car-like-this/

matt

Beat you to it by a minute

Luckily for you, I had a read of this thread earlier... see here

Don't be immediately put off by the list of faults which has been given. Find out how to check them, and use it to get the price down, or tell them to get the faults fixed before buying, and you could get yourself a bargain. You could always contact the member by PM, I'm sure they'll give you some idea of whether you should buy it or not.

HTH

Thanks for that mate!

TBH whilst I'd love to haggle and get a bargain I haven't got all the time in the world at the minute and my better half is commuting by train which seems to cost us both hours each week.

Out of interest, I take it that it had a Remap? The garage hadn't noticed if so.