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Acoustic treatment - removing carpet and seats


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After putting a bit of flashing tape on the doors I want to attempt to do a decent job (though not overkill) of treating my car. Having read flashing tape is a bit rubbish, I have firstly ordered some Damplifier Pro.

I'm going to start by just doing all of the door panels. I'm sadly not going so far as doing the 'inner' part of the doors, as past experience of removing the door carrier has been... less than a desirable task. And they're now nicely sealed too. I have no problem in deadening the carriers on the outside though, so I am going to do that.

Now, I am looking at then pulling up carpets and deadening bits of floor and roof, then (if I can get the carpets up) laying some Luxury Liner Pro. However, I have no clue how on earth to do this and I need your help! B)

1) How do you get the front seats out? I've seen some kind of large star screw on the rails. Is it a simple case of undoing these?

2) How do you get the floor carpet up after the seats have been removed? I've read on here that you have to pull off the plastic trims along the side? Is that all there is to it? Pulling the trim up would help with routing wires, so that's handy. How about the centre trim where the handbrake is? Do that also just unclip and come off?

3) How do you get the roof carpet off? I've absolutely no idea about this at all.

I shouldn't have too much of a problem with the boot area on my own hopefully :-)

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The seats are held in with those exact screws you mentioned, two on either rail one at the front and one at the back. Centre console is two torque screws under the money holder thing right at the back of the console pretty much in the back seat area, then remove the flippy lid compartment next to the gear stick. One torque screw to get the gear knob and money holder bit out, then Two more to hold it two the car, then that will pull out once you have removed the bit of plastic under the handbrake. The rear seats come out by pushing the metal rods on each side when the seats are flopped forward, push them towards each other then lift the seats out. Now remove the plastic trims at either side starting at the back as this is easier, a firm pull but be carful not to snap them. All of those need to be off for the carpet to come up. There are a few things in the footwells that attach it to the floor and bulk head. Such things as the footrest etc. Remove these. some have big plastic circles that twist off like a screw and can sometimes be done by hand. You may need to put a slit with a knife around the bit under the radio and aircon to get the carpet out, I think I did. I found the shortest bit was around 6inch and could be done under the radio section right at the back 'so' it couldn't be seen once replaced. Then that's everything mate, pull out that carpet :) anymore info then let me know.

Elliott

Edited by E11HES
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The seats are held in with those exact screws you mentioned, two on either rail one at the front and one at the back. Centre console is two torque screws under the money holder thing right at the back of the console pretty much in the back seat area, then remove the flippy lid compartment next to the gear stick. One torque screw to get the gear knob and money holder bit out, then Two more to hold it two the car, then that will pull out once you have removed the bit of plastic under the handbrake. The rear seats come out by pushing the metal rods on each side when the seats are flopped forward, push them towards each other then lift the seats out. Now remove the plastic trims at either side starting at the back as this is easier, a firm pull but be carful not to snap them. All of those need to be off for the carpet to come up. There are a few things in the footwells that attach it to the floor and bulk head. Such things as the footrest etc. Remove these. some have big plastic circles that twist off like a screw and can sometimes be done by hand. You may need to put a slit with a knife around the bit under the radio and aircon to get the carpet out, I think I did. I found the shortest bit was around 6inch and could be done under the radio section right at the back 'so' it couldn't be seen once replaced. Then that's everything mate, pull out that carpet :) anymore info then let me know.

Elliott

Brilliant explanation, thanks Elliott :)

Doesn't sound like too bad of a job, but I suspect I will probably need a complete weekend to sort the flooring side of things out at the rate I go. Hopefully try and tackle this very soon! A garage would be ideal in this weather :doh:

Have you done this before for sound deadening / proofing? If so I would be interested to hear how any sound proofing went (how much effect it has on road noise etc)

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Brilliant explanation, thanks Elliott :)

Doesn't sound like too bad of a job, but I suspect I will probably need a complete weekend to sort the flooring side of things out at the rate I go. Hopefully try and tackle this very soon! A garage would be ideal in this weather :doh:

Have you done this before for sound deadening / proofing? If so I would be interested to hear how any sound proofing went (how much effect it has on road noise etc)

WARNING - Disconnect the battery and UNPLUG the seat airbag connector before you lift out the seats.

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Yes good point about the battery. I haven't done sound proofing but iv had the water leaking in the rear doors and the insulation was wet 'so' everything came out and I got rid of the insulation 'so' I could do with sound proofing now lol. It's not that bad a job mate, my issue was finding the correct tool for the seat bolts as that was a pain lol other than that it's pretty simple. Although I haven't fitted the trim back yet as I'm still doing work

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If you're just looking to sound proof the car from road noise then what you have planned seems ideal - If you are looking at sound proofing to improve your in car audio then unfortunatly the front outer doorskins are possibly the most important part to get done. Admittedly i'm not really looking forward to removing those door carriers either! :)

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I was wondering where the passenger side air bag was just the other day. Is it underneath the seat?

The airbag itself is high up on the side of the seat ( should be a small tag on the side of the seat saying AIRBAG )

The connector for the airbag is underneath the seat and is YELLOW in colour.

DO NOT unplug the airbag connector unless the battery has been dissconnected for 5 minutes or more.

Make sure you connect the airbag connectors up properly BEFORE you re-connect the battery.

The fault light will need resetting with VCDS or similar if you unplug the airbags with the battery connected

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Yes good point about the battery. I haven't done sound proofing but iv had the water leaking in the rear doors and the insulation was wet 'so' everything came out and I got rid of the insulation 'so' I could do with sound proofing now lol. It's not that bad a job mate, my issue was finding the correct tool for the seat bolts as that was a pain lol other than that it's pretty simple. Although I haven't fitted the trim back yet as I'm still doing work

Heh. It's the daily driver so it can't really be in pieces for too long, though I don't mind driving around without trim and back seats really :-)

If you're just looking to sound proof the car from road noise then what you have planned seems ideal - If you are looking at sound proofing to improve your in car audio then unfortunatly the front outer doorskins are possibly the most important part to get done. Admittedly i'm not really looking forward to removing those door carriers either! :)

Both really, but proofing from outside sounds by definition improves in car audio ;) I would like to do the outer door skins, but I just can't be bothered with all that. The inner door skins made a noticeable difference for me, so I will stop there with the doors I think. I'm conflicted over whether to put something Luxury Liner Pro like on the doors too.

The airbag itself is high up on the side of the seat ( should be a small tag on the side of the seat saying AIRBAG )

The connector for the airbag is underneath the seat and is YELLOW in colour.

DO NOT unplug the airbag connector unless the battery has been dissconnected for 5 minutes or more.

Make sure you connect the airbag connectors up properly BEFORE you re-connect the battery.

The fault light will need resetting with VCDS or similar if you unplug the airbags with the battery connected

Great stuff, thanks.

I take it the connector has a length of wire long enough so that I can easily get under the seat to unplug it....? Is that the only thing that makes the air bag deploy? I'm a bit weary of the air bags.... I wanted to fit cruise control, but decided not to because of the air bag...

No problems with resetting the light as I have VCDS :-)

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I take it the connector has a length of wire long enough so that I can easily get under the seat to unplug it....? Is that the only thing that makes the air bag deploy? I'm a bit weary of the air bags.... I wanted to fit cruise control, but decided not to because of the air bag...

No problems with resetting the light as I have VCDS :-)

Yep - long enough to reach under and unplug the cable/plug.

The airbags are deployed by accelerometers and the airbag control module ( i think this is under the centre consol ) - all you are unplugging is the airbag from the system.

Just remember that any YELLOW cable or PLUG in the car is likely to be associated with the airbag system so don't cut it or kill it.

Edited by DEAN0
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Yep - long enough to reach under and unplug the cable/plug.

The airbags are deployed by accelerometers and the airbag control module ( i think this is under the centre consol ) - all you are unplugging is the airbag from the system.

Just remember that any YELLOW cable or PLUG in the car is likely to be associated with the airbag system so don't cut it or kill it.

Great info, thanks :-)

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im running without backseats and trim at the moment anyway mark, extra work needs doing regarding sealing rear doors, and iv just wired a sub, new speakers and new headunit in so it makes it a lot easier for me with everything off.

Elliott

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  • 2 weeks later...

im running without backseats and trim at the moment anyway mark, extra work needs doing regarding sealing rear doors, and iv just wired a sub, new speakers and new headunit in so it makes it a lot easier for me with everything off.

Elliott

I attempted to remove the plastic trim running down the sides of the car, but I couldn't figure it out. I was pulling quite forcibly but nothing seemed to be happening. I'm sure there's some kind of trick to it and it's not that difficult "when you know how"?

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I attempted to remove the plastic trim running down the sides of the car, but I couldn't figure it out. I was pulling quite forcibly but nothing seemed to be happening. I'm sure there's some kind of trick to it and it's not that difficult "when you know how"?

Having taken up the carpet in mine at the weekend I discovered you don't need to remove the plastic trims to take the carpet up - you can just pull it out - but I suspect it will be easier so to do to put the carpets back - once the underfelt's dried out - it's virtually there having been on the boiler three days...

I did actually get as far as taking the one across the base of the drivers door off - pull upwards after having taken the bits of the patrol flap release lever off. I'll try and take a few photos next weekend

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1) How do you get the front seats out? I've seen some kind of large star screw on the rails. Is it a simple case of undoing these?

You need an XZN 10mm drive - not easy to come by in Gloucester on a Saturday afternoon. Machine Mart do them online but don't in the shops - except in a expensive complete set. In the end I got one at www.belltools.co.uk.

You might find an extended one will be easier to use

xzn_10.jpg

- I bought a short one (even that was £5.99) and the two front ones are very tight to get at even with dual extension bars on the ratchet. Make sure it's properly seated before applying pressure - mine were very tight...

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Having taken up the carpet in mine at the weekend I discovered you don't need to remove the plastic trims to take the carpet up - you can just pull it out - but I suspect it will be easier so to do to put the carpets back - once the underfelt's dried out - it's virtually there having been on the boiler three days...

I did actually get as far as taking the one across the base of the drivers door off - pull upwards after having taken the bits of the patrol flap release lever off. I'll try and take a few photos next weekend

I'd rather like to pull the whole lot up to route wires nicely unfortunately.

A pull upwards might be the key. I was pulling outwards :D Also not sure about removing the fuel cap release lever, so pictures of that would be handy!

You need an XZN 10mm drive - not easy to come by in Gloucester on a Saturday afternoon. Machine Mart do them online but don't in the shops - except in a expensive complete set. In the end I got one at www.belltools.co.uk.

You might find an extended one will be easier to use

xzn_10.jpg

- I bought a short one (even that was £5.99) and the two front ones are very tight to get at even with dual extension bars on the ratchet. Make sure it's properly seated before applying pressure - mine were very tight...

I think we have one of those. Though possibly not. If they're the same type as what you need to fit Devons bonnet lifter then I should have one...

Pictures are blocked here at work, but I am sure there's a picture on his thread somewhere http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/47949-fabia-hydraulic-bonnet-lifter-kits-for-sale/page__p__571608entry571608

The large screws down the side of the bonnet that need to be undone to fit the mounting bracket...

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I think we have one of those. Though possibly not. If they're the same type as what you need to fit Devons bonnet lifter then I should have one...

That thread refers to an M8 fitting - the seats need an M10 fitting

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