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Jacking up an Octavia Scout

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I was hoping to get a trolley jack to make swapping over onto my winter wheels easier (easier and more stable than using the supplied scissor jack anyway) and thought I did my research as I didn't want to damage the sills etc. I bought a hockey puck with the intention of cutting a slot in it (as per what other people have done) to fit where the scissor jack would fit, popping it onto the top of a trolley jack and away I'd go.

However, when looking under the car the plastic cladding on the Scout seems to make this unlikely as it is flush with the bottom of the reinforced sill where the jack will fit, meaning a hockey puck is posibly useless on my car, basically doesn't look like there's enough room. The other half's A3 is fine as the sill is easily accessible so the £2 puck isn't wasted, and I'll still need a trolley jack for her car - can't keep boys from their toys!

I have looked to see if I can find anywhere else to jack the car, and despite trawling loads of forums for advice I've come up blank. I also asked the dealer and they were following the party line: use the supplied jack and jacking point!

Anyone have any suggestions? I'll use the supplied jack if I have to but was hoping for something a bit more stable.

I built one out of a hockey puck, cut slot, trimmed one side down also. Kind of looks like an 'F' profile. I actually ended up bonding the cut side price to the uncut side, so the seam is just there to locate the puck and the inside semi circle bears the weight.

Worked a treat.

Just changed my wheels today and used my wifes electric jack - doddle.

It has a pad on top which has two slots which can rotate to help alignment. More expensive than a trolley but comes with impact wrench, various sockets, and other bits n bobs. Makes the job so much easier.

Just changed my wheels today and used my wifes electric jack - doddle.

It has a pad on top which has two slots which can rotate to help alignment. More expensive than a trolley but comes with impact wrench, various sockets, and other bits n bobs. Makes the job so much easier.

Can you post details, we need something for the Abarth as it has no jack or jacking points

Id take a look underneath at the Subframe/Supension arm mounting as that would be the best place to put a trolly jack.

I'm convinced that the jacking points on the Octavia are on the inside of the weld seam. The standard jack although is shaped in a U shape and fits around the seam only lifts on the inside of the weld seam. I used my trolley jack on this point at the weekend (as a practice!) and it lifted fine.

I used a bit of closed cell foam on the trolley cup to protect the underseal.

  • Author

I built one out of a hockey puck, cut slot, trimmed one side down also. Kind of looks like an 'F' profile. I actually ended up bonding the cut side price to the uncut side, so the seam is just there to locate the puck and the inside semi circle bears the weight.

Worked a treat.

Don't suppose there's a chance of a pic? Visualisation isn't working too well today :S

Just changed my wheels today and used my wifes electric jack - doddle.

It has a pad on top which has two slots which can rotate to help alignment. More expensive than a trolley but comes with impact wrench, various sockets, and other bits n bobs. Makes the job so much easier.

Would also like to know what type if it works so well :thumbup:

Will post a pic tomorrow.

I thought this thread was about raising the ride height :rofl:

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've bought a set of plastic/rubber jacking pads from an S3 which attach to holes already in the floorpan. You then use these points to locate your trolley jack.

I haven't fitted them yet but intend to do so over the weekend so I'll try and write a mini-guide for the fitment (assuming they work ok!).

Will post a pic tomorrow.

It's not going to win any beauty pageants or awards for precision engineering, but it works just dandy.

i-vbQHbGk-M.jpg

It's not going to win any beauty pageants or awards for precision engineering, but it works just dandy.

i-vbQHbGk-M.jpg

Was the chainsaw blade undamaged when you finished? :wonder:

Was the chainsaw blade undamaged when you finished? :wonder:

Yes, but the hedge trimmer is a little broken.

I have a second puck which I may modify properly now I know the profile needed. But TBH I do not think I can be 'bovvered'.

Edited by foo

  • Author

Yes, but the hedge trimmer is a little broken.

I have a second puck which I may modify properly now I know the profile needed. But TBH I do not think I can be 'bovvered'.

I bought 2 pucks too, something about great minds springs to mind :giggle:

I fitted these to the wifes Octavoa over the weekend;

rearcomplete.jpg

frontcomplete.jpg

Full write up of how to fit coming when I get a spare half hour!

Total cost was about £45 from the Audi dealership and they are by far the easiest way to lift an Octavia IMO.

  • Author

I fitted these to the wifes Octavoa over the weekend;

Full write up of how to fit coming when I get a spare half hour!

Total cost was about £45 from the Audi dealership and they are by far the easiest way to lift an Octavia IMO.

I think this is what I was looking for, think a trip to an Audi dealer is in order :)

I should have time to put a guide up over the weekend. They are dead easy to fit when you know how.

If you need the part numbers before then just let me know and I'll dig them out tonight. :thumbup:

I should have time to put a guide up over the weekend. They are dead easy to fit when you know how.

If you need the part numbers before then just let me know and I'll dig them out tonight. :thumbup:

I've seen these on various VAG forums - I thought it was considered opinion that these pads were not suitable for lifting on a trolley jack and should only be used to lift the vehicle on hydraulic lift that lifted the whole car.

Me too. :yes:

You're correct that these have been around for a while for VAG platform cars, I remember debate about them when I had my mkIV Golf and that was 10 years ago.

It does just seem to be opinion though, I have personally never seen any rationale for that opinion.

My own feelings are;

A) As long as you only lift one wheel at a time I can't see enough stress being put on the pad/floor pan to cause a defomation

B) What is the alternative? Using the seam? Not practical and judging by some anectodatal evidence on here, not particularly strong either. Using some other random place under the chassis? Who's to say that wherever you choose to place you're jack is strong enough?

At least with the jack pads, it is an area that is initially designed for lifting the car from so it will have some form of reinforcement. It may well be the case that it was only designed for lifting using two at a time but I guess we'll never know.

I'm happy to use them for now as I think they provide the best option for me.

If there is any deformation then it won't be noticable so I'll just stop using them and it won't be an issue.

Of course I will post on the forum to let everyone know if I do notice any issues during use.

S3 jack pads work a treat. Did cambelt change and front suspension bushes. Couldn't have done it without them.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Jacking points - eventually got round to fitting them (or at least trying).

I bought all the bits from the Audi dealer and the rears fitted no problem - pull out the round plastic blank, fit the rubber bung (or whatever it is called) with the aid of a trolley jack and a wee bit of washing up liquid to ease it into place, fit the plastic plug (also with a trolley jack to give the leverage to 'pop' into place. Looks good and I'm happy with them.

However, when I tried to fit the front bits and I couldn't remove the front blanking plate; I could get it to spin round but couldn't actually get it out. Admittedly I didn't remove the surround (need a torx bit I think) but will this make it any easier?

Any tips from someone who's done it before would be greatly appreciated?

It is difficult to get the front ones out.

You do need to take off the surround- it's a T25 torx bit I think.

You can then see the bit you need to remove easier;

frontundertrayoff.jpg

You'll need to use a large flat bladed screw driver and wedge it where the arrow is between the body and the plastic shiled. You then need to try and break/squeeze the tabs. It'll require a bit of persuasion and maybe some mild swearing bit it'll eventually come off.

It looks like this- hopefully this will help you visualise what you're trying to remove.

originalplug.jpg

I'll try and get a guide written up ASAP but really busy at work just now so haven't had the time, sorry :(

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I'll try and get a guide written up ASAP but really busy at work just now so haven't had the time, sorry :(

The pictures you've posted have been great help so thank you for that; they explain why it's a bit of a bu**er to get off. I'll get the surround off and get ready to swear at it :)

Cheers :)

  • Author

Stevoraith

Thank you, the advice and the pictures you posted above really helped. The front jacking points are now in place, and you were right, it was a T25 Torx bit that was required, and only one bit of swearing when the first one came out and I pretty much punched the tarmac :giggle: The other side I made sure I was more careful!

All in all was quite a good day as I had an excuse to buy some more tools: Torx bits as part of a 37-piece set, and a torque wrench for when I swap the wheels over, maybe that's a job for tomorrow.

Thanks again.

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