Coming back from a new years party this afternoon the glow plug light came on and the car went into limp mode, I pulled over and switched the ignition off and the restarted the car and everything seemed to be OK, got home and plug the laptop into it and it comes up with a fault code 16683/P0299/000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Control Range Not Reached, not sure if this is anything to do with the work that Skoda have carried out.

Having just had the injectors and loom done by Skoda some 500 miles ago I have noticed a few problems, the car goes into regen and the light can stay on for over 50 miles and the tick over goes upto 1000 rpm and it feels lumpy, also it feels like the power is pulsing and it's not as responsive as it was before.

Has anybody else had the same or simular problems after having the injectors done !!!!

I think I might give Dan at Skoda UK a ring in the morning and see if he can help

Others have also noticed the rough idle and increased rpm since the injector change.

Check out the main injector thread.

This is the car performing repeated regens of the DPF, no one quite knows why they do it but they have said that it calms down after a while.

Still, especially with the dash lights and limp home mode I'd be booking it back in.

Hi there had my injectors done about 3 weeks ago and not happy @ all with the car since. Dpf came on 7 times in the first week after work done then I paid to have my exhaust pressure sensor replaced but car just not running properly dpf still coming on 2-3 times per week and not changed driving style. Seriously not happy with the car @ the moment and have lost a lot of faith in it. So much so I've started to look @ 118d m sports to replace it with. Cheaper insurance cheaper tax ad better mpg. Would just need winters all round then sorted - would miss the skoda but not the headache that's going along with this just now.

I have to agree with you there mate, having been put into a dangerous sittuation twice now when the car has failed I'm not prepared to make it a third time when I have my family with me, I'm going to call Dan at Skoda UK and give them the chance to put it right, if they dont then I'm going to call VOSA and ask them to look into it for me and maybe they will get a better result.

May be if every body here that has had a problem since having the injectors replaced rang them and complained we might get some where.

Edited 2 January, 201214 yr by Snu

Just had full diagnostic test done on the car and it turns out that I now need a new inlet manifold as the control bar for the swirl flaps has worn, not a cheap fix either at £710 fitted.

Might need to break the spanners out of retirement and get my hands dirty, any tips on doing this little job !!

Worth doing though, if that control bar fails then it is possible a swirl flap (or part of one) could be ingested by the engine causing lots of damage.

I remember a thread on here not so long ago where this happened on a PD170 vRS, caused a lot of damage - with pictures.

It was a thread close to my heart as it happened to me on my previous car (2002 BMW 320d). I needed a new engine at £7,000, half of which was paid for by BMW UK as it is a well known fault.

Out of curiosity was the limp home mode / fault code you experienced as a direct result of the worn inlet manifold or was it the recently replaced injectors?

Worth doing though, if that control bar fails then it is possible a swirl flap (or part of one) could be ingested by the engine causing lots of damage.

I remember a thread on here not so long ago where this happened on a PD170 vRS, caused a lot of damage - with pictures.

It was a thread close to my heart as it happened to me on my previous car (2002 BMW 320d). I needed a new engine at £7,000, half of which was paid for by BMW UK as it is a well known fault.

Out of curiosity was the limp home mode / fault code you experienced as a direct result of the worn inlet manifold or was it the recently replaced injectors?

The fault code was overboost which was caused by the leaking pressure on the inlet manifold.

I've bought some new gaskets today so I'm going to take it off this weekend and have a good look at it to see how bad it is.

Worth the £10 before I blow £430.00 on a new one from TPS.

Keep us posted

Here's the thread by the way (including gory pictures )

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/219645-warning-octy-2-2007-vrs-pd-issue/page__hl__swirl+flap

Stripped the inlet manifold off today and found that it was totaly gummed up, the throttle body and EGR valve were also clogged up, the swirl valve bar seems a little worn but servicable, the actuater does not hold vaccum so will need replacing.

Thinking of putting a blanking plate on the EGR valve but not sure if that will cause any further issues or not.

Need to rebuild it tomorrow and see if there is any difference, TPS gave me the wrong manifold gasket so will need to strip it back down again next weekend and refit the new gasket and swirl bar actuater.......deep joy.

Was it an easy DIY, sounds like a good preventative measure, how long did it take?

Not to bad of a DIY job, 2 hrs to remove.

undo the EGR pipe from throttle body (to allow access to the bolt from throttle body to inlet manifold) bolted to the block by 11mm bolt (torch required)

remove all electrical connections from throttle body and inlet manifold plus actuater pipe

disconnect intercooler pipe from throttle body

remove throttle body (3 bolts, one is about 100mm and sits at the bottom of throttle body)

remove all inlet blots inc bolt inside inlet manifold (may be covered in sticky soot/gunk)

you'll need a good set of tork/spline/allen key bits + brake cleaner and a can of carb cleaner or a parts washer

make sure you have the right gaskets for the car i.e cast inlet or plastic inlet

I used a small flat headed screw driver to remove most of it then used a paint brush and petrol to give it a good clean, I cleaned the inlet manifold the best I could then filled it with petrol and left it for a couple of hours to break down the gunk.

If you handy with a spanner you should be ok, if you just have a Halfords socket set you may struggle a bit :'(

Have now fitted new inlet manifold and actuator, here are some photo's of old and new

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y187/snu/DSCF1370.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y187/snu/DSCF1380.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y187/snu/DSCF1373.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y187/snu/DSCF1376.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y187/snu/DSCF1377.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y187/snu/DSCF1374.jpg

As you can see there is 4.5mm of end float due to the wear of the swirl flap itself, another thing to point out was the actuator was not holding vaccum so the swirl plate's were not fully opening.

Just need to take it on a run and see what difference it make......well at least I won't have the problem of one of them breaking off and going into the cylinder head.

If you are thinking of doing this and you need any advise then just pm me and I'll do my best to help.