Starting Problem Skoda Elegance 2.5 V6 diesel reg. 2005

If my car is left for 2 to 3 hours after a run it is then difficult to start again.

The run may be a longish run (e.g. 20 miles), after which the engine is at proper working temperature; or it may be a very short run (e.g. 1 mile), after which the engine is still cold.

It can take 3 or 4 attempts on the starter before the engine starts. When engine does start it is initially accompanied by a short burst of smoke from the exhaust (i.e. a build up unburned diesel, due to repeated attempts to start). Sometimes it helps to start by depressing accelerator slightly.

The problem has been getting much worse recently.

Note: There is no problem starting from cold (e.g. first thing in the morning).

Also, no problem starting after a short stop.

The problem was first reported to a Skoda dealer when it was last in for service (Nov. 2010). They did a diagnostic check which didn’t show up anything. However, they did do an update recommended by Skoda – to do with engines failing to start when warm (I think).

Also, a new fuel filter was fitted at that service.

The problem still persisted.

I have now just had the car in again at another Skoda dealer. They also ran a diagnostics check, but again no fault codes were reported. However, they also did a battery check, which reported that the battery was ‘good’ (showing 12.15 volt), but with ‘recharge’ also shown on the report.

I am a little skeptical about whether the battery is the problem. Considering the fact that I first reported this problem some 15 months ago, then if it was a battery problem I would have thought the battery would be well shot by now. Also, the battery seems to be turning the engine over OK.

Possibilities:

I have mentioned other possibilities to the Skoda dealer – i.e.

(i) Do the glow plugs need replacing? The car has done 60,000 miles, and is nearly 7 years old. The dealer is adamant that it is not the glow plugs, saying if anything was amiss it would show up on the diagnostics check.

(ii) Is the glow plug pre-glow system thinking the engine is warm, when in fact it isn’t?

Any ideas will be much appreciated.

Starting Problem Skoda Elegance 2.5 V6 diesel reg. 2005

If my car is left for 2 to 3 hours after a run it is then difficult to start again.

The run may be a longish run (e.g. 20 miles), after which the engine is at proper working temperature; or it may be a very short run (e.g. 1 mile), after which the engine is still cold.

It can take 3 or 4 attempts on the starter before the engine starts. When engine does start it is initially accompanied by a short burst of smoke from the exhaust (i.e. a build up unburned diesel, due to repeated attempts to start). Sometimes it helps to start by depressing accelerator slightly.

The problem has been getting much worse recently.

Note: There is no problem starting from cold (e.g. first thing in the morning).

Also, no problem starting after a short stop.

The problem was first reported to a Skoda dealer when it was last in for service (Nov. 2010). They did a diagnostic check which didn’t show up anything. However, they did do an update recommended by Skoda – to do with engines failing to start when warm (I think).

Also, a new fuel filter was fitted at that service.

The problem still persisted.

I have now just had the car in again at another Skoda dealer. They also ran a diagnostics check, but again no fault codes were reported. However, they also did a battery check, which reported that the battery was ‘good’ (showing 12.15 volt), but with ‘recharge’ also shown on the report.

I am a little skeptical about whether the battery is the problem. Considering the fact that I first reported this problem some 15 months ago, then if it was a battery problem I would have thought the battery would be well shot by now. Also, the battery seems to be turning the engine over OK.

Possibilities:

I have mentioned other possibilities to the Skoda dealer – i.e.

(i) Do the glow plugs need replacing? The car has done 60,000 miles, and is nearly 7 years old. The dealer is adamant that it is not the glow plugs, saying if anything was amiss it would show up on the diagnostics check.

(ii) Is the glow plug pre-glow system thinking the engine is warm, when in fact it isn’t?

Any ideas will be much appreciated.

Edited 3 February, 201214 yr by george.w

...(i) Do the glow plugs need replacing? The car has done 60,000 miles, and is nearly 7 years old. The dealer is adamant that it is not the glow plugs, saying if anything was amiss it would show up on the diagnostics check...

I've seen a couple of these where one of the two glow plug fuses have gone and VAS showed no faults. That would mean that only one set of three would be working. The fuses are in the plenum chamber.

I would measure the resistance of each plug and check each of the plug caps in the looms for voltage during preheat.

I've seen a couple of these where one of the two glow plug fuses have gone and VAS showed no faults. That would mean that only one set of three would be working. The fuses are in the plenum chamber.

I would measure the resistance of each plug and check each of the plug caps in the looms for voltage during preheat.

____________________________________________________________

Thanks for your response. I will need to speak to someone more technically qualified than myself about how to do what you suggest.

I've seen a couple of these where one of the two glow plug fuses have gone and VAS showed no faults. That would mean that only one set of three would be working. The fuses are in the plenum chamber.

I would measure the resistance of each plug and check each of the plug caps in the looms for voltage during preheat.

____________________________________________________________

Thanks for your response. I will need to speak to someone more technically qualified than myself about how to do what you suggest.

My car had problems starting in the cold also. After replacing the battery it became better. After replacing all glow plugs (even though they did not show as faulty) made it start smoothly without any problems every time.

I've seen a couple of these where one of the two glow plug fuses have gone and VAS showed no faults. That would mean that only one set of three would be working. The fuses are in the plenum chamber.

I would measure the resistance of each plug and check each of the plug caps in the looms for voltage during preheat.

____________________________________________________________

Thanks for your response. I will need to speak to someone more technically qualified than myself about how to do what you suggest.

sorry for 3 replies. My internet is playing up.

My car had problems starting in the cold also. After replacing the battery it became better. After replacing all glow plugs (even though they did not show as faulty) made it start smoothly without any problems every time.

Thanks for your reply. As I have said, it starts OK from cold (first thing in the morning). The poor starting occurs after I've done a journey (long or short), left the car for about 2 - 3 hours, and then tried to restart it.

____________________________________________________________

Thanks for your response. I will need to speak to someone more technically qualified than myself about how to do what you suggest.

It's really very simple.

With a cold engine. For each glow plug...

Pull off the cap.

Measure the resistance between the glow plug terminal and the block. Should be roughly 0.9ohm.

Measure the voltage between the glow plug cap and the block whilst someone turns the ignition. Should be 12V whilst the preheat light is on. Turn off ignition.

Push on the cap so it clicks.

It's really very simple.

With a cold engine. For each glow plug...

Pull off the cap.

Measure the resistance between the glow plug terminal and the block. Should be roughly 0.9ohm.

Measure the voltage between the glow plug cap and the block whilst someone turns the ignition. Should be 12V whilst the preheat light is on. Turn off ignition.

Push on the cap so it clicks.

Thanks again for the info. Much appreciated. Forgive me for being a bit thick, please be patient with me, but what do mean by the glow plug 'terminal'?

Thanks again for the info. Much appreciated. Forgive me for being a bit thick, please be patient with me, but what do mean by the glow plug 'terminal'?

It's the centre bit that sticks out. The glow plug cap is the part of the loom that snaps onto it.

glow plug terminal = plug

glow plug cap = socket

It's very simple:

1. your car starts fine when it's cold, i.e. coolant is under 30 degrees, so the glow plugs are working fine

2. your car does not start well if it's in a semi-warm state, i.e. not cold enough to activate glow plugs, but not warm enough to spring to life on just compression on its own

I have exactly the same symptoms, worst in the summer, as the coolant stays warmish in the sun, and even after a whole day at work, it still doesn't activate the glow plugs on re-start, and then I get exactly the same symptoms as you.

You can see if the glow plugs are activated by counting sheep while looking at the glow plug light - mine takes 3-5 seconds to go out before I crank. If they are not being activated, then the light will go out in under 1 second.

I have 6 brand new glow plugs and my symptoms are same as yours.

My advice is do not temper with glow plugs as they snapped off in my case and I needed one new cylinder head - total bill £1600. That was two years ago.

In terms of resolving the "problem": - Well, I have chosen to ignore it, it still starts, just adds to pollution occasionally - embarrassing I know. Perhaps the VP44 injection pump is not at its best, and refuses to advance injection for a start. I don't know. Best not to think about it, as this will be another expensive repair if it goes one day.

When my cylinder head was off, I had a good look at he bores and they were beautiful - and the car has been serviced well - so I am sure I still have a good compression. After all, with only 100k miles, it's really only on a third of its life.

Sorry I could not help you, but you are not alone with this issue!

It's the centre bit that sticks out. The glow plug cap is the part of the loom that snaps onto it.

glow plug terminal = plug

glow plug cap = socket

Thanks again.

It's very simple:

1. your car starts fine when it's cold, i.e. coolant is under 30 degrees, so the glow plugs are working fine

2. your car does not start well if it's in a semi-warm state, i.e. not cold enough to activate glow plugs, but not warm enough to spring to life on just compression on its own

I have exactly the same symptoms, worst in the summer, as the coolant stays warmish in the sun, and even after a whole day at work, it still doesn't activate the glow plugs on re-start, and then I get exactly the same symptoms as you.

You can see if the glow plugs are activated by counting sheep while looking at the glow plug light - mine takes 3-5 seconds to go out before I crank. If they are not being activated, then the light will go out in under 1 second.

I have 6 brand new glow plugs and my symptoms are same as yours.

My advice is do not temper with glow plugs as they snapped off in my case and I needed one new cylinder head - total bill £1600. That was two years ago.

In terms of resolving the "problem": - Well, I have chosen to ignore it, it still starts, just adds to pollution occasionally - embarrassing I know. Perhaps the VP44 injection pump is not at its best, and refuses to advance injection for a start. I don't know. Best not to think about it, as this will be another expensive repair if it goes one day.

When my cylinder head was off, I had a good look at he bores and they were beautiful - and the car has been serviced well - so I am sure I still have a good compression. After all, with only 100k miles, it's really only on a third of its life.

Sorry I could not help you, but you are not alone with this issue!

Many thanks