Let me start by saying I'm not an electrician or a mechanic. I've fitted this to my car without cutting any original car wires and the kit can be removed easily. If you don't like the way I've done this, fine, it's my car not yours! I've knocked this together so others can see how easy it is to fit and it cost under £30 and there was no drilling bumpers or heart stopping moments. Install time took around 2 Hours as it kept raining and I wanted to take photos.

Title says it all really! To retro fit you will need the following:

The camera: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CCD-Rear-View-Camera-SKODA-ROOMSTER-OCTAVIA-TOUR-/280639543893?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item41576b9a55

The Monitor: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-3-5-TFT-LCD-Color-Screen-Car-Rearview-Monitor-DVD-VCR-/150715309597?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2317551e1d

One of these to stop the Canbus moaning for the camera light:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pre-wired-501-W5W-LED-Resistor-Stop-Canbus-Warnings-/190623683241?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c620e92a9

You'll have to do some soldering and cutting of these wires.

Some of these to connect to the wiring: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-x-Female-Terminals-2-8mm-Japanese-Connectors-/180452450571?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a03cde10b

These can be flattened and pushed in to existing connectors. I know there are better ones out there but I had these to hand.

Some wire, a couple of in line fuses a 4 point relay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-RELAY-4-PIN-AUTOMOTIVE-30AMP-RY1-CHANGEOVER-12-volt-Car-Van-Boat-Spotlight-/280756476397?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415e63d9ed

You'll need to decent non rusting self tapping screws and some large black washers to fit the camera.

I also recommend buy some of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-Portable-Practical-Automotive-Panel-Plastic-Trim-Removal-Tool-Set-Kit-/180752737469?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2a15b3e4bd

For those of us blessed with the ability to break trim fittings just by looking at them these babies stop you scratching and or breaking anything!!!!

Right first things first check everything works. I did this by plugging everything in to a 12v battery. I've bought things on ebay before and they haven't worked and I only found out once it was all together!!!! All working move on to the next step.

Decide which number plate light you'll change. I went for the right one as the camera is on the left of the body so it's nearly in the middle of the car:

Next you need to carefully drill out the screw holes in the camera. I started with a 6mm and went up to 10mm. The screw holes should look like this:

You'll then need to extend the power lead for the camera and fit the Resistor to the light:

Next you'll need to ease the boot door liner off, use a tool like this:

It's held on with metal fixings. I would recommend undoing the pull down handle. You need to be firm but not too Tarzan to get this off.

You will need an additional pair of hands to get this back on later! Take your time it is do able!

You will need to feed the power and camera lead down the boot, through the grommet and in to the car. I would recommend cutting off the camera plug as the side of the boot isn't that big! Make sure you leave a good foot of cable to reattach it later with a soldering iron. Just realised I didn't photo this as it started raining sorry. This is by far the most frustrating and time consuming part of the install!!! Take your time and don't through a paddy, like I did!!

The earth for the camera is attached to the wiper motor.

The Light power gets pushed in to the existing light source like this:

The light fitting gets screwed back together. It should look like this:

Next you need to decide where the monitor will go. Mine is attached to a bracket screwed to the back of the seat. Not a great photo sorry:

I was going to have it in the front, but where I live some scum bag would try and nick it thinking it was a sat nav. Also I can see the camera in the rearview mirror, and I don't often carry passengers.

Power for the monitor is run under the carpet and goes into the same supply as the camera. The earth is situated behind the seat bolster. Sorry again it was raining, no photo.

Ok so we have two red leads for the camera and monitor. The destructions with the camera say you can run the power straight off the reverse bulb. You could do this, if you want a picture on the camera that flickers and is unusable. The Canbus system pulses the flow so it won't work. This is why we need the relay. The reverse light works as the switch. The power for the camera and monitor comes from the boot light. You need two fuses one on the reverse light feed and one on the boot light feed. I've used 2amp fuses so they'll blow before the lights. All of the fittings are pushed into the back of the existing sockets so no cutting.

Next you need to work out how the relay works. See my rough diagram:

Once this is done it's time to test the system, if its all working it should look like this:

All working: Hooray:

Put the car back together:

Finished:

Pat self on back and have lunch.

I've also changed the bulb in the other light so the colours match. The LED in the camera is not as bright as the other side but it looks ok.

Hopefully this guide will help? If you have any questions ask and I'll try to answer.

Thanks

Rich

Edited 18 February, 201214 yr by richieroo

You sir are an inspiration. I fancied doing this on mine and this looks like a good cheap way of doing it. I've added a bookmark to this, so may be a project for me in the coming months. If I were to do it myself, I'd possible try to run the monitor into the center rear seat backrest that folds down

Yeah I thought about putting it there but it's a pain to reach back and pull it down, although the cubby box is a good place. Has to be said the units paid itself today as I had to park in a stupid space with stupid bollards that I wouldn't have seen with out the camera!

Rich, was the links you provided the sellers you purchased from? Thinking of going ahead but always sceptical about Chinese eBayers

To be honest I've bought a lot from ebay and the Chinese stuff can take a while especially if it's new year there. Having said that I've always received what I ordered and the communication can sometime be better than uk sellers. As long as you pay through paypal and use a credit card you should have any problems. The links above are all the things I bought. Bear in mind you'll have to carefully drill the screw holes on the camera body. Let me know how you get on and post some pics.

Ta

Rich

That looked real nice, anyone know what is needed to have that hooked up against the Columbus? With the columbus showing both camera and the parking sensors automatically when backing up?

Richieroo, you are a very clever man,

I shall be purchasing one of these and installing one myself once my warrenty expires in May,

Many thanks

Richie - how wide does the footage look on the camera? Are you able to take a pic of what the camera can see (ie of the monitor) ?

Ordered mine and itching to fit it

what colour is the numberplate light? is it normal yellowy colour or white? can you get inside it to replace the bulb?

thats a few questions in 1 post!!

Thanks

The angle is about 170 degrees give or take. On the monitor there are some lines but to be honest I still lookk out the side windows and the back, the camera just helps especially if there are bollards.

The colour of the bulb is white LED, it's fully sealed so can't be changed. I bought a white LED Festoon bulb for the other side. make sure you buy the pre wired resistors http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pre-wired-501-W5W-LED-Resistor-Stop-Canbus-Warnings-/190623683241?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c620e92a9 other wise you'll get a canbus error on the dash.

Good luck! Bass tube might be fitted this weekend! Quite excited! Sad I know!

i have just got my self 1 of these cams as the 1 off my bora will not fit the octy. Could you tell me why you drilled and made the holes bigger, i dont understand why you did this.

What was the wait on postage as well fella? i like things yesterday! :evil:

Ok so we have two red leads for the camera and monitor. The destructions with the camera say you can run the power straight off the reverse bulb. You could do this, if you want a picture on the camera that flickers and is unusable. The Canbus system pulses the flow so it won't work. This is why we need the relay. The reverse light works as the switch. The power for the camera and monitor comes from the boot light. You need two fuses one on the reverse light feed and one on the boot light feed. I've used 2amp fuses so they'll blow before the lights. All of the fittings are pushed into the back of the existing sockets so no cutting. Next you need to work out how the relay works. See my rough diagram:

So just to clarify

30 goes to +ve of boot light

85 goes to any -ve terminal / bare chassis

86 goes to the reversing light +ve

87 goes to +ve of the camera

?

Also, when you say boot light, would this not mean the camera etc is only on when the boot is open?

I have never played with relays before and just wondering if you can give a bit more of an idiots guide than the post it note

Cheers

Mike

Gee man - Drilled to make the holes bigger as they didn't line up. I tried drilling exactly where needed but ot looked pants, drilling bigger made life easier! Postage was about a week.

Mike - Be pretty pointless only working if the light was on and the boot was open!!! LOL. Because of the Canbus system the circuit is live when the car is unlocked. Once it's locked the circuit gets switched off! Have a look here for relay wiring.

http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm

Bear in mind a relay is just a switch, instead of a button to switch it on it needs a current.

Good luck let me know how you get on.

Gee man - Drilled to make the holes bigger as they didn't line up. I tried drilling exactly where needed but ot looked pants, drilling bigger made life easier! Postage was about a week. Mike - Be pretty pointless only working if the light was on and the boot was open!!! LOL. Because of the Canbus system the circuit is live when the car is unlocked. Once it's locked the circuit gets switched off! Have a look here for relay wiring. http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm Bear in mind a relay is just a switch, instead of a button to switch it on it needs a current. Good luck let me know how you get on.

Cheers, I mocked together the circuit with an LED which works quite happy on the 12v battery (ie nothing blew up!) so just waiting for the camera and monitor before I go ahead with fitting.

Gee man - Drilled to make the holes bigger as they didn't line up. I tried drilling exactly where needed but ot looked pants, drilling bigger made life easier! Postage was about a week.

thanks for the reply. cant wait for it to arrive i really miss my reversing cam off my old motor

Quick update: Make sure you squeeze, on the yellow connector male, flanges in. so it binds tighter on the female. Mine popped out today after having the boot shut rather enthusiastically, not by me!!!!!!

Edited 6 March, 201214 yr by richieroo

Quick update: Make sure you squeeze, on the yellow connector male, flanges in. so it binds tighter on the female. Mine popped out today after having the boot shut rather enthusiastically, not by me!!!!!!

Cheers for that. Got the cam through today and noticed the resistor for the light gets quite warm - does yours? Just waiting for the monitor and some sunlight and ill have a working camera

Yup resistor gets warm, I'm on the look out for an alternative, this was the best I could find. As long as the resistor isn't stuck to anything plastic it should be ok, hopefully!

Just wondering if a 5w sidelight bulb in parallel would replace the resistor ? Makes use of the cables I chopped too.

Hoping to fit on Friday or Saturday ready for the north yorkshire meet

HELP! Managed to get the cable ran through the boot trim etc (what a chew on!) and now cannot get the rubber boot over the plastic parts at t'uther end - obviously don't want to leave it like this so wondering if you could advise how you got the boots over the plastic?

EDIT: All sorted. Feels like -5 out there.

Ah yes didn't mention the rubber boot! Glad you got it sorted!

Let me see a photo when you finish your install, I'm interested to see where your monitor is going.

Wouldn't put a bulb in as that will get hotter than the resistor!

Ah yes didn't mention the rubber boot! Glad you got it sorted!

Let me see a photo when you finish your install, I'm interested to see where your monitor is going.

Wouldn't put a bulb in as that will get hotter than the resistor!

Yup, spent about an hour on just the rubber boots lol.

Also, fed a wire for power but forgot to put the video cable down there. Had to run power down left handside as wire was getting stuck on something on the right hand side but may run video feed down there. Any advice on this?

I'd say it's probably a 1 day job to get it all done really if not 2 days, as there is the prep work on the relay and wiring, removal of trims, routing cables.

You did cut off the connector?  Not sure what's down there but abit of gentle persuasion the cable will drop down.  Thinking about it I used some plastic coated garden wire and pulled it through.  Take some photos so I can see your please?

Ta

Rich, have it all fitted back together, just waiting for the monitor now. I'll get some photos up soon, honest.

Quick question - do you have MaxiDot? Reason I ask is that:

1. My boot light is not powered when the car is unlocked, only when the boot is open (had to sit in the boot and use the emergency release to test lol)

2. When I had the numberplate bulb removed, I tested out whether I get a bulb fail light on the dash - this was not the case.

All in all though, it works brilliantly (tested on a portable DVD player that accepts video in) !

I'll take some pics / write up a bit more on the bits I found most tricky...

Hmmmm don't have maxidot bit odd. Thought it was strange that mine works but I read that the canbus sytem means the system is live even if the boot is shut. Check with a Multi meter, Not sure about your move to lock your self in the boot seems a bit extreme lol. With regards to the bulb fail light I had both mine out and it didn't error, till I plugged the leds in. Even then it didn't error all the time!