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Fabia Vrs Oil Fix


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I would take that warranty extension offer.

 

If you have no knowledge of the cars oil use which might be perfectly fine.

 

You will get no help with Engine problems from Skoda after the original Warranty expires in 2 days time.

Over £5,000 out of your pocket if you need a new engine out of warranty.

 

Once you have the warranty in place you can get down to seeing that the cars OK,

good Plugs in etc and not an Oil User.

 

The car could be perfectly fine but now you have an idea whats what, 

Ask Skoda UK today if any warranty work has already been done on the car.

ECU Update already done etc.

 

If there are any minor issues, like Corrosion on rear Badge, Wheels with corrosion but not driver damaged,

get along to a Skoda Dealer and have those faults inspected today and they may be done under Manufacturers Warranty if logged now before the 27th.

 

Have you had the MOT done.?

£39 offer at Skoda Dealers.

? What about the 3 year/30,000 mile service,Oil/Filter service, is that done, & has it had the Brake Fluid changed.

 

http://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/service-and-maintenance/national-pricing/maintenance

You can probably get the service and brake fluid change cheaper than this.

 

george

Hi George,

Sorry missed the question on service, got the dealer to service when I took it so my point was running on full oil and brakes.

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There are Dark Chrome threads already, they are the problems wheels mostly.

I have those.

(One Dark Chrome wheel Skoda refused to replace last week,

but pictures were taken of that again by the dealer, because they are having a laugh if they think its not being replaced.)

 

I also have Black Gigaros. 2 sets.

Nothing wrong the Paint/coating on them and they vary wheel to wheel when you look at the spokes.

 

I would go for the 2 year extension.

There is a thread going at present.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/267578-extended-skoda-warranty-for-fabia-2-vrs

Sadly that thread says Freedom members only.

Thanks for the help

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Sorry about that.

(here is another shorter one)

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/279375-12-months-extended-warranty

 

Anyway, 'Brian69' is keeping his car past 3 years old, his is on under 20,000 miles, so getting an Extended Warranty.

i have one over 23,000 miles, but no warranty, its been re-mapped.

The engine was rebuilt at 4000 miles , and like yours was Dealership Demonstrator.

 

Thats why i say check with Skoda UK and see if your car has already had warranty work.

It should have had a ECU update, may have had new coils, maybe injectors and possibly even new rings.

So any of that is not a problem.

 

If its a good one, then happy days.

 

george

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Thanks for the link George - had found my way there more or less when you posted.

 

So a little update, been on to Skoda UK, the car has only had two pieces of warranty work done, one being the work I requested to silence some rattle (loose wiring loom, loose shock, minor interior) and a fault on a rear lock.  Nothing at all on the engine.

 

Gave the car at run to the local Tesco to pick up a litre of Castrol Edge 5w30 (£12.00 non-bargain but convenient), left it to sit while I was in the shop and re-dipped, now showing nearly a quarter into the hatch under same conditions as above and I believe both carparks to be level,  based on XK's post above I have potentially used less than a litre in over 4,000miles in a car with no "oil fix" on it to speak of.

 

So now the devil in me is saying that I clearly have had some luck and picked up a good 'un, therefore i must instantly get on the phone and spend my extended warranty money on getting booked in for an APR Remap :devil: ..................................is this premature. lol

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Not sure about getting an Extended Warranty then having cover after you Re-map the Engine.

 

You best check that out with the Warranty Company/provider.

You could be throwing money down the Drain Paying for the Warranty.

 

Have you read how i now check the oil cold and get the same reading as a hot check?

It has worked on each one i have tried.

 

'Cold engine/oil' on the flat.

Start the engine and stop right away.

dip it, see where the oil is on the stick.

 

3.6 litres is just below the top of the cross hatch.

I run with 3.7 litres and it sits at the top of the cross hatch.

& just a cold dip no engine started, just below the top orange marker.

 

george

 

EDIT>

You posted while i typed.

 

Do not bother about the ECU upgrade if the car is running correct.

2 year/20,000 mile service 'Inspection Service', it should or may have been done them already.

 

If you want to spend money, i would get new spark plugs in, unless you know it has had them.

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Haha, I was suggesting that I would not get the ext warranty and instead spend the money on the APR Map.  Would do the spark plugs at same time, Awesome GTI offer upgraded plugs I believe.

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Hi All,

I have just booked my new CTHE vRS in for the oil test.  I check the oil weekly and this morning there was just a slight indication of oil at the orange ball at the bottom of the dipstick.

I did 200 miles in the week and am just on my second 4 litre can of approved oil in 3380 miles.

I put a litre in to bring the level to near the top of the dipstick.

Earlier in the month I did a 300 mile round trip using 1/4 litre only, so very mysterious.

Anyway I have written to my dealer, at their suggestion, as any evidence is worthwhile in dealing with such a case.

Will keep you posted.

Tony

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Sparkly,

You best do some more checking & reading on the tuned Stage 1 and stage 2 Twinchargers.

and how many still run the Map or even still own or run Twinchargers.

There are weaknesses, and they are liable to show if you take that engine above 200bhp.

 

Is your car really needing more BHP, and can you afford if the engine goes t!ts up?

 

george

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Sparkly,

You best do some more checking on the tuned Stage 1 and stage 2 Twinchargers.

and how many still run the Map or even still own or run Twinchargers.

 

Is your car really needing more BHP, and can you afford if the engine goes t!ts up?

 

george

 

All very true sir, a genuine voice of reason there, my potentially naive thought was that given I will not be tracking the car or running 1/4 miles at Santa Pod that I could do some conservative tuning and not create too many issues, I am not after massive gains at the top but I do think the car would be a nicer package with some light beefing out at the mid range.

 

Had hope to map to around 200bhp and then other mods like intake, sparkies etc simply to support the map rather than push onwards for big stage 2 gains.

 

But rest assured my next reading assignment will be to collate experience from the projects and general contributions of the likes of yourself and others on here

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Sparkly,

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/209657-14tsi-14-mile-leaderboard

 

There are good threads from those with experience in the Project Section.

The Modding done be vRSy and others that show on the leaderboard.

 

Enough members around on here  with experience of Tuning Box, Re-maps from the main 4 companies,

Exhaust, turbo, intercooler upgrades etc.

 

Problem is not the tuning,

the problem is the base engine & components is well enough stressed before you ever start tuning.

Get it on a Dyno, it might already be up near 190 PS

 

george

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I'd change the handling and braking on the car but wouldn't fiddle with the power. It can go more but when I want a car with more power I'll be buying a car with more.

Thanks Martyn,

 

I know there is a strong shout for handling upgrades, not sure I can afford a big brake kit but I certainly want some Bilsteins on her when money allows, and appreciate these wouldn't/shouldn't have any bearing on the car's longevity.

 

Trading up for power could be done but looking at option it tends to increase the size of the overall package and I have bought in hard to the DSG and Twincharger in a small light car

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Sparkly,

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/209657-14tsi-14-mile-leaderboard

 

There are good threads from those with experience in the Project Section.

The Modding done be vRSy and others that show on the leaderboard.

 

Enough members around on here  with experience of Tuning Box, Re-maps from the main 4 companies,

Exhaust, turbo, intercooler upgrades etc.

 

Problem is not the tuning,

the problem is the base engine & components is well enough stressed before you ever start tuning.

Get it on a Dyno, it might already be up near 190 PS

 

george

George,

 

I read your sound words of advice yet can't help feel that by posting up pages with quarter mile leaderboards you are subtley encouraging me to go all in - 300bhp Hybrid and shares in Skoda and Castrol.

Edited by Sparkly
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Your post was about worrying about oil use which you had not really checked, and now you are tuning an engine you do not really know much about.

 

The only hint or suggestion i am giving is enjoy the car.

Make it lighter and make it handle better, that is cheap.

The car is pretty fast as it is, if running properly, good for double the national speed limits.

 

£1000 of tuning gives you little better performance but loads less reliability.

 

If you want to Tune a CAVE 1.4 TSI S-A 178bhp/180PS,

best get that engine Blueprinted first or Upgrade the Base engine before even considering it.

 

Or just play lottery and enjoy and dispose of it if it breaks.

a £8,500 gamble/toy.

 

george

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OT but I've been finding that. Started looking for possible used replacements and most will be bigger.

  • GT86 has a bit more power but less practical and could be slower in the real world
  • Megane 265 Cup is looking likely but is French. Same length as my estate but wider but should still fit in the cwtch
  • Astra VXR. More power but a lot heavier, wider, appalling service from local dealers and the image.
  • Elise/Exige - Complete opposite to a vRS so no real comparison. Lot better to drive but maybe not everyday?
  • Audi S3 - Plenty of tuning options, not bad on fuel, may feel a bit numb though
  • Golf R - Same as S3 but looks good in blue
  • Swift Sport - Smaller, cheaper to run but less power. But with a supercharger would be better than a vRS.

When you look at it again used cars of similar value and in all those cases more, you realise how good the value of the vRS was. I may change brakes and suspension to improve handling as I've found my Michelins are now too good. The tyres have more grip than the car is used to so I'm getting more roll through corners now. Undoubtedly made the car faster point to point though.

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George, hadn't intended to incur the wrath or make myself look stupid.

 

Anything written was out of enthusiasm for the car, absolutely love it. 

 

As posted, had bought it originally with the intention of some light tuning and that started my Briskoda reading, which lead to many posts on Oil and my own mild panic

 

true, I've probably dived in two quick with my posts, will gracefully bow out.

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Sorry only being serious and trying to help, please ignore as most do.

 

Please ask those that are tuning and still driving or owning the cars.

I am lucky in that my friends are Tuners of the old school, not just good on a Laptop.

 

My vRS's are for fun and not important as daily drivers.

I went to buy a A1 185ps but got messed about in the order and then found out that a vRS could be very cheap more fun and faster.

Polo's & Ibizas are not any faster for often more money.

But it is a lucky dip if the engines fail or not on any of the 4 cars, most do not, but many have..

I doubt i will be without a Twincharger, no matter what ever cars i have, they are just good fun, and they will not continue making them once they get the Deactivating engines sorted properly for EURO 6 emissions.

 

A new Audi A3 Saloon is 178bhp & a 1.8 tsi, with S Tronic (DSG), & it is heavier,

yet they (Audi) post the same performance as the 1390cc Twincharger.

& showing  better economy, lower emissions & tax class because it has Stop/Start.

 

george

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OT but I've been finding that. Started looking for possible used replacements and most will be bigger.

  • GT86 has a bit more power but less practical and could be slower in the real world
  • Megane 265 Cup is looking likely but is French. Same length as my estate but wider but should still fit in the cwtch
  • Astra VXR. More power but a lot heavier, wider, appalling service from local dealers and the image.
  • Elise/Exige - Complete opposite to a vRS so no real comparison. Lot better to drive but maybe not everyday?
  • Audi S3 - Plenty of tuning options, not bad on fuel, may feel a bit numb though
  • Golf R - Same as S3 but looks good in blue
  • Swift Sport - Smaller, cheaper to run but less power. But with a supercharger would be better than a vRS.

When you look at it again used cars of similar value and in all those cases more, you realise how good the value of the vRS was. I may change brakes and suspension to improve handling as I've found my Michelins are now too good. The tyres have more grip than the car is used to so I'm getting more roll through corners now. Undoubtedly made the car faster point to point though.

The main car on my list would be the Focus ST,new model...compared to a vRS it's a better handler,more space and still 5doors,and a lot better fuel economy than the older version ST.

Quite expensive new but should be able to pick up a 6 month old one for £17/18k.

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Sorry only being serious and trying to help, please ignore as most do.

 

Please ask those that are tuning and still driving or owning the cars.

I am lucky in that my friends are Tuners of the old school, not just good on a Laptop.

 

My vRS's are for fun and not important as daily drivers.

I went to buy a A1 185ps but got messed about in the order and then found out that a vRS could be very cheap more fun and faster.

Polo's & Ibizas are not any faster for often more money.

But it is a lucky dip if the engines fail or not on any of the 4 cars, most do not, but many have..

I doubt i will be without a Twincharger, no matter what ever cars i have, they are just good fun, and they will not continue making them once they get the Deactivating engines sorted properly for EURO 6 emissions.

 

A new Audi A3 Saloon is 178bhp & a 1.8 tsi, with S Tronic (DSG), & it is heavier,

yet they (Audi) post the same performance as the 1390cc Twincharger.

& showing  better economy, lower emissions & tax class because it has Stop/Start.

 

george

The advice was appreciated and in case it wasn't clear a good bit of my previous posting was mean't tongue in cheek.

I do have an interest in this so am going to pop up a new thread canvassing people still running tuned cars.

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At last I got my car back today with the new engine. Now it is a wait and see times begin... I do hope that I will not face any oil issue with the new engine. It is the cave engine again but fingers crossed... :))

Truth I really missed to drive the little evil... first 1.000 km is important after that then it will be tge time to enjoy the car again...:))

TeamPASAOGLU

Edited by c@n
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All these posts worry me! I've had my 2010 6R Polo GTI for 8 months now and done 4000 miles and it has not used a drop of oil. This sounds abnormal it seems! How come some engines are totally unaffected?

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Hopefully you are now. All the best and enjoy it.

 

Quite a few 2010 Twinchargers in the UK had new Piston Rings or other replacement parts and have been good ever since.

VAG knew within a few thousand miles of the Seat Ibiza, then the VW & Skoda being on the road that there were problems.

 

Just amazing that 4 years later with the Seat & 3 with the VW, Skoda & Audi that they still turn out faulty ones.

Nearly 12 months since they revised the engine and even they can still be badly built,

and some are behaving the same as the engine that went before..

 

Is it a VAG denial problem,

or do they really just not give a ****?

 'I am amazed that no Successful Legal Action or Federal Action has been taken against them in some country.

 

george

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