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Vrs takes a long time to start

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Basically my vrs take too long to start either in the morning or when the engine is warm in fact it's getting to the point now where people are starting to make comments about it. Also when the car the warming up you can feel the car shuddering ever so slightly but this does stop when the engine is warm,has anyone else had these problems with their vrs? The car is going into the dealers today but thought I'd ask for some advice on here as well just in case the garage try telling me nothing is wrong.

By shuddering do you mean a lumpy idle when cold? if so, mine does this sometimes too. never have starting problems though.

Something is wrong and just do not be told otherwise untill it is repaired properly.

Car should start on the turn of the key even at -20 degrees celsius.

Then it might take time to warm up. 5-8 miles

When warm it should always start just as easy and run smooth.

(plugs, coil or some other problem, they need to read the codes, then analyse )

Leave the car with them until fixed and starting quickly.

Get a courtesy car or ask for the Head salespersons daily drive.

See how he likes your car!! See if he/she puts up with it.

george

Lumpy idle from cold i think is pretty common atleast for the first 5mins

Lumpy idle from cold i think is pretty common atleast for the first 5mins

Really? Never experienced this with my vrs

Slightly lumpy when on fast idle for the first 10-30 seconds - noticed it on my Scirocco before and pretty sure its a change in the ignition timing to try and warm the cat up quicker.

Should start within a few compressions (2-3 seconds tops IMHO) though unless something is wrong.

Less likely to be lumpy when cold when running properly and when its running Super Unleaded.

(95 ron might well feel different, its all often to how it was run before parking up and if the DSG is a smooth one when cold, or with a cold engine. Sometimes its engines some feel and sometimes gearbox.)

Starting should not be a problem tho.

Also likely to be slightly more lumpy with some non standard Air Filters or Air Intake/boxes and colder weather, but then thats part and parcel of changing things, compromise sometimes or set as needed.

Then Tuning boxes or re-maps are another story again and need to be set or used as will suit.

george

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A few weeks back it had the 2nd service 18500mile it had the spark plugs and coil pack replaced due to the fact it's been run on 95ron so the garage and skoda said that 95ron had ruined my plugs and coil pack. Since then it's had nothing but v-power I know this should have been done from when I bought the car but swmbo drives it more than me and she refused to pay the difference for v-power I'm just hoping the don't blame this fuel issue on the starting up issue and lumpy idel.

The 95 ron was not the problem first time around or should not be..

Your Dealerships workshop seems to be problematic tho.

Get them to fix it properly, see if the ECU was given an update or requires one.

If they do not know. get them to get in someone that does.

george

Refer them to page 25 and on or from their own manuals.

http://www.volkspage...ssp/SSP_359.pdf

There must be a more up to date version of this VAG document around if someone can provide it please!

it will run on 95, so they are talking *******s... If thats their level of knowledge , I'd suggest you find another dealer.

My dealer (Tunbridge Wells) said 95ron was fine

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Well skoda uk weren't wiling to pay up in full for the previous work but they are giving me my 3rd service for free and I didn't have to pay labour charges for plugs and coil pack but if they try charging me for this next problem I'm going to dig my heels in and not pay a penny.

I'm actually tempted to stick two tanks of 95 in to see what actually happens. We know 98+ is best for performance but if I got a job with more miles it may work out cheaper to go for 95 as I wouldn't be driving for fun then and wanting best MPG possible

If you are near Sainsbury, their Super 97 ron min for the price of others 95 ron quite often.

Nice stuff for normal commuting.

http://www.petrolprices.com

re

Owners Manual & the linked manual.

It say the same on 'page 137' as they usually say about 'Prescribed fuels' & Filler Flap.

Prescribed, 98 ron, 95 ron min.

'Prescribed & performance or lack of when using minimum prescribed is in there

(91 ron is nothing really to do with a vRS in the UK where the flap has 98 (95) minimum

& you are not going to find 91 ron fuel here anyway.)

No mention in Sales Brochure from VW for the Polo GTi other than '95 RON' Fuel.

& no Salespeople tell you about using Super.

george

EDITED, post after seeing and reading the link with specs on.

The dealer always said that 95 is fine and had half a tank of it when it was new. When I changed to 98 I noticed the difference but if 95 is fine I may try that

I'm actually tempted to stick two tanks of 95 in to see what actually happens. We know 98+ is best for performance but if I got a job with more miles it may work out cheaper to go for 95 as I wouldn't be driving for fun then and wanting best MPG possible

I was stuck one day and had to use £20 of 95 RON to go up the motorway and stopped for more (98)when it ran out.... I found the 95 RON 3mpg less on the motorway at exactly the same speed.... I reccon 98 would pay for itself...

I just believe in Tesco Momentum at 5-10 pence less than V Power,

& have watched and tried and can get the same MPG on 95, 97/8 or the 99 ron

On my usual routes that i just Sunday Drive along on. .cold weather & 'Average camera routes'.

I would never really be booting it unless using the 99 ron tho.

george

I would never really be booting it unless using the 99 ron tho.

Why not?

because of recommended 98 ron, min 95,

and the engine and engine type, coils, plugs and engine failures. experience. its down to horses for courses.

1390cc twincharger with min 178bhp, might as well feed it well, let it breath and keep it happy, then they behave.

if you want economy use economy fuel and drive economically a vRS can do that..

I have a car for doing that tho and its not the vRS

george

Hypermile it if you want tho. Best done on 99 RON, IMO

14,000 miles on 95 apart from like 2 tanks, took spark plugs out about 1000 miles ago and looked fine wee bit of build up but nothing to be throwing toys out the pram about

I normally use bp ultimate, or similar. Easily get 40mpg on the computer, got 45.mpg over 20miles mixed driving. I doubt there is a difference between the premium fuels (97, 98, 99 Ron).

Maybe not much at national speed limits.

You can always remove the doubt tho,

you can put it on a Dyno and i promise there is a difference from Sainsbury Super & 99 RON.

& a difference in Oils you use and running temperatures.

I would not even try and run on a Dyno with 95 ron or low oil,

Like i said, i would not really boot it unless on 99 ron.

But then i would never run an engine that takes only 3.6 litre of oil with 10%-20% less oil in it.

You will very easily notice Oil Temp and Fuel consumption changes when running oil thats running hotter than necessary.

george

town driving its just what it is often.

Not much you can do to change that.

97 bp gives me about 40 miles more per tankfull so breaks even id say

when i used 95 there was no lumpyness or poor starting, unusual smoke nada, it ran fine and imho performed just the same on the road

a car that takes ages to start could well be fuel starvation, get the fuel pump checked

On the odd occasion I've used 95 (normally with a near empty tank - <20 miles), mpg drops by between 8 and 10% for me. Naturally, takes a couple of tanks to get fully back to full 99, and I can see it coming back up.

This is using MaxiDot as a comparative tool, not gospel, but 38-39 on Momentum99; drops to 35-36 on 95RON. Hits 44mpg quite easily If I go through the 50mph section of the M6 instead of the M6Toll though...based on the same 50 mile trip each way, twice a day, over a tankful.

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