Hi all.. Some help on a few questions please.

1) Can anybody recommended based on experience, what oil I should use for my fabia vRS tsi.... I know the CAVE engine suffers from drinking oil and I am not saying mine is, but have noticed a drop over 1,000 miles.

2) I'm a bit of a novice reading the dip stick (no punt tended)... Where should I be concerned in terms of making sure the car is regually topped off with oil.. I'm not sure the manul helps... (To be precise, how do I read the dipstick and where is the min and middle groud readings..)

Thanks all..

Edited 7 May, 201313 yr by Azzbo786

The 'Owners Manual' does explain.(badly, IMO, thats the CZ-English Translation probably.)

Oil needs checked after it is up to normal operating temperature. (running temp, that is probably over an indicated 50*oC,

i wait till after its been to 80*oC )

I do not think the Fabia Manual makes that clear about hot oil/engine..

Obviously when you know there is the correct amount in, 3.6 litres,

you will know where it shows both cold, and where it is when hot and left to sit a few minutes.

*Do not overfill.*

What mileage is on the engine and what oil was last put in, was it a 1 year or 2 year service.

It might of got Long Life 5w 40 Fully synthetic (VW 504 00) or 5w 30. (VW 502 00)

Look at the Service Book and Invoice for the Service.

george

VW Polo Owners Manual, reads different from the Skoda one, but the same engine.

As shown on the picture or just above should be fine when the oil is hot.

Hi George.. Thanks for your reply I appreciate that.. The Car is a 2010 model, its currently on 3.8K and when I brought it from the dealer it had 2.7K on the clock. Skoda serviced the car and when I picked it up; not sure what they put in him.. :-(.. the Dipstick reading (oil level) was right up to the brim when I drove the car off the forecourt... Checking the dipstick now at 3.8K its on the first lip "["

End of dipstick tail representation = [........] < being the lowest reading at the end of the stick, its showing oil level far left "[" - when I checked in the morning prior to a cold start.

Are you saying that after a journey and when temp is on around 80*oc which my car gets to after doing 17.5 miles to home from work.. I should let it rest for a few minutes and then check the dipstick to see what the level is....

Thanks Arif

Thats when i would check it, after at least 15 miles.

Then once you know thats the level when hot,

check it next morning when cold, to compare.

*That dipstick picture in the first post is not mine.*

The one below is from the same members car.

In a 'Cave' engine i use 3.7 litres of oil and that is right at the top of the hatched area when hot.

3.6 is the Correct Amount tho,

When cold i can not read it, it is at the Top Orange Marker.

I know there is enough and not too much oil, and thats a 2010 ex demonstrator that had the Engine Rebuilt at 4,000 miles and has done 14,000 miles since. No oil Usage.

Some Service Technicians appear to wrongly fill with 3.9 litres of oil.

I have seen several cars leaving 'Dealerships' with too much oil in.

george

This is a picture from a member that had a new engine fitted and this was the level the garage put it out with.

This is how it was on the Dipstick when dipped cold.

(mine would be sitting at the top orange marker when cold.)

PS

Most cars are totally OK, but yours being an early one,

I would check with the Dealer that the Car was given the ECU Upgrade at the Service and before you collected it.

I know the car is very low mileage and not really run in, it takes a few thousand miles on the Twincharger.

? Since the Original Skoda 3 year Warranty is about to run out, have you taken an Extended Warranty as a Used Skoda,

or have you just got a 'One Year Warranty'?

The car was due a One Year/10,000 mile service, & then a 2 year/20,000 mile Inspection Service,

Obviously because of the Low MIles its probably just an Oil Filter & Oil Change done,

no need for the Pollen Filter which is usually done in the £175-£200 2 year service.

Have they done some Service Plan in the Deal, & is the MOT due around August?

george

Moving to Fabia 2 section.

When I picked up the car it had a ECU and DSG upgrade.. I demanded from the Skoda dealer that I had it done. Its warrenty runs out in June 2014. Thats when its first MOT is.. My fear is that any oil related problems wont appear until after my warrenty period (knowing my luck.) but I dont race my vRS.. I do a steady 75-80 on my motorway runs and give it about 30 seconds before I switch it off... They had said that they have done a major service for me and its on a two year variable service plan...

I wonder wether I should get an extended warrenty early Jan next year... Looking at your pics, I think my little vRS was over filled.. not good... I've heard lots of rumours about the excessive oil consumption, I am ready for some consumption a characteristic of the engine, but wonder whether I can get any Skoda modifications done to the engine.. I've heard of improvements with the way the oill beadths...... Any thoughts.. and thanks once again for your posts..

I would get the Oil level correct,

then use the car hard and see that there are no issues while in Warranty.

'Skoda Approved Used Cars' are usually available to purchase with the option of an Extended Warranty at time of Purchase.

Not sure about at a later date.

http://www.skoda.co....rs#.UYkrB6KG3xA

I do not think you will need a Breather Mod if there is no Oil Usage.

Not even sure it actually works.

?Is it a 2010 build but not First Registered untill June 2011?

Check the orange sticker on the Cover at the drivers side of the engine, it will give an idea of the Build Date of the Engine.

Hopefully you have a good one.

The MAP on the First Cars in 2010 was probably part of the problem early on. & the plugs and coils.

Maybe also the Dealerships over filling the Oil.

My Advice would be,

Have fun with it, and use it like it should be used while 'In Warranty',

if its going to fail, you want it to fail now.

george

What George says is correct. In my experience oil levels on the dipstck were the same whether I dipped hot or stone cold i.e. 15 mins after arriving at the office or before going home in the evening.

I dropped my oil at 5k from new. Then refilled with exactly 3.6 ltrs of Castrol Edge Profesional 5W-30 LongLife III and fitted new oil filter (original Skoda one). Dipstick was showing 3/4 up the hatched area. I consider this to be max oil level. So if yours was at max it was overfilled badly. Please also remeber to clean the dipstick thoroughly before dipping to take the reading as otherwise it will be false. Metal hase to be dull mat dry. If I were you I'd get all the info and just drive the car. It will burn off the excess oil.

Also, please remember that the engine has oil presuure as well as oil level warnings and will let you know that it needs more oil before it is low enough to get damaged. Monitor oil temps and do hot and cold readings in exactly the same spot for few days in a week over four weeks to see what is going on. Oil level getting down is not really dangerous as ECU will warn you before motor has to low. "Making oil" (oil level on the dipstick is growing) is deadly for the engine and if detected the car should not be used any more and Skoda Assistnce called.

Hi all.. thank you once again for taking time out to respond to my post..

Maybe I am being to pessimistic - I do drive like miss daisy holding up traffic on the motorway and not putting my foot down. You guys are right.. if its gonna fail.. I need it to fail in the warrenty period..... at 4K, I just havent given it much time.. I've attached a photo of the engine build date.... not sure what that means, but looks like an early build.. it is on an 11 plate (but I have a private plate on it "VR54 FAB"), but built in 2010..

The car has defo been over filled.. I'm quiet annoyed by Skoda.. you can even see some oil marks down the crank shaft in the picture (I noticed that when I picked-up the car) - which then got me thinking. I think I have burnt all that excuss oil and its now operating between the two lips [..........]. I did do the hot oil test yesterday as you both said and the dip stick was half way between the lips [ | ].. This morning the dip stick was showing over the "[" but was on a slight grandiant.. so not sure how accurate it was...

Do we actually know on the eariler builds what is precisely the problem with it burning too much oil.. is it a design flaw!....... I think I'm gonna have to drive it hard until Jan next year to see if I do have a problem or not... Maybe I am doing my own head in.. its only done 4K and hasn't even had time to settle down but one thing for sure is that damm skoda boys over filled him... Argh!

Keep in touch all.. and thank you, really appreciate your time to respond.. I'm a novice... unfortunetely..

Kind Regards Arif.

Edited 8 May, 201313 yr by Azzbo786

Is it showing the Date on the Orange Sticker.

(15.6.2010 & the ECU's Code Number on my Orange Sticker posted below. I think its the ECU Code) EDITED>

It matches the Bar Code to the Left of that & the Number on the Barcode matches the ECU on the car.

All the best with it.

The Early UK 2010 cars that were Demonstrators usually had problems at around 4000 miles after being sold on to Customers.

But that was before VAG started doing ECU upgrades, and engines were to my knowledge being over filled with Oil.

Possibly at the PDI, maybe by the Salespeople driving them, and sometimes possibly in the Workshop.

They even put too much oil in some after they rebuilt engines & sold them to Customers.

You might of thought they would have learned by now in 2013.

** If there is too much oil in it now, & you are sure there is.

Call them and arrange to have it checked.

I would get an EMAIL off to the Dealerships Managing Director and the Workshop manager and 'Copies to Skoda UK Customers Services.'

Get them to drop the Oil, install a new filter and put the car out properly serviced.

george

Oh ok.. I get it.. My little orange stick is showing 15.12.2010, it has had a ECU and DSG upgrade before it was delivered to me.. I demanded one from them... So is mine a late 2010 model not one of the early ones then.. its still a CAVE engine though...

Sorry i could not see the pictures you posted, seen then now.

Yes 'CAVE' engines untill late 2012, when they became 'CTHE'

Cars with them delivered in the UK Later on 2012.

Hopefully yours is all fine.

Great engines.

Just Make 'Skoda UK' aware of your concerns at this point, then you know they have no excuses down the line if things are not right.

Enjoy the car.

I had mine MOT'd (2 1/2 year old) earlier this year because it was going to a family member.

I have it back again now.

(they did not like it)

It used Oil while being hardly used for a couple of weeks and never brought up to heat on short journeys.

It never used oil when being driven hard after heated up on every journey with me.

If you are going about on short runs and easy driving and then you boot it,

you might see a cloud of black smoke.

Thats just soot and nothing to bother about.

Have fun.

george

PS.

How are the Discs looking from sitting around and not doing many miles.?

I see a bit of signs on the Aluminium Surfaces in your engine compartment of somebody probably using a power cleaner,

or just the way Alloy can go when left sitting, often from salty air or roads.

I give a little coating all over with oil to give some protection usually with alloy.

Just an oily rag, wiped on the surfaces.

Hi George - I will defo give it a boot once in a while when up to running temp... The disc is an interesting one... I have noticed the front disc's are marked-up a lot. lots of lines on the disc... the pads are fine, but the disc look warn... I cannot understand why because its only done 4K, but is that as a consequence of the car just sitting literally on the forecourt for three years.

I brought it from Jewson's in Oxford and as its a s2000 model with the liveries, it was just sitting on the main forecourt with the occassional test drive from some "wanna-be".. When I test drove it, I drove it pretty carefully even though the sales man said, why dont you give it some welly. I said to him... not required I know how to drive a car with a DSG gearbox thanks.... I reckon I will have to change the discs at its next service in March next year.. They look warn to me.. :-( I love the sound of the engine and how smooth and clever the DSG box is.. I just want to make the car last and appreciate it a little more with a boot hear and there..

Just scored up a bit.

As long as they are not Grooved too badly and going to spoil the pads they will wear OK.

(They might have Skimmed the Discs for you,)

Ask them to if you are back in to see them.

I was thinking more of the rear Discs.

A bit of Surface Rust around the Edges is normal on the Discs on these cars.

Replace them and they can be much the same in no time.

Best take the Wheels off and put some Copper Grease on the Wheel Hub Centres.

Just to check they come off easy enough.

george

Azbo786

If I were you I'd drop the oil myself, change the filter, filled it back up with the required 3.6 ltrs of your oil of choice and the check the dipstick to understand where is the correct oil level on it - you'd be surprised, I was

This way engine will not be overfilled, absolutely correct amount of correct oil will be in, fresh new oil will be in and you will know the correct levels for sure. Filter costs a £10 delivered (original VAG item for the car) and oil can be had at a good deal, George had some good buys I think.

Hay guys, My work lot thing I'm going crazy.. Just gone back to the car park (for the 3rd time) to take some pics of the disc.. but they havent come out well because the car is in the dark. I will post some pictures up in the morning on this post..... Thinking of it, the front discs do have some rust on the outer disc, similar to the pics from george.. I think I will monitor the oil usage over the next month or so and then do a forced oil change. I'm not a mechanic unfortunately so will have to get a mate to do it or garage.. or wondering how difficult it could be.

When I sold my previous fabia vRS TDI.... the damm garage had to haleycoil the oil nut because they couldnt get it off.. anyway I dont want to damage the nut in anyway as I have limited "numpty-non-mechanic tools'.. I am based in Reading and there is a VAG parts place GSF (German, Sweadish, French) in reading.. so will get my bits from there..

It is very easy, oil plug (nut) comes off without problems and it is to be replaced with new one so even if damaged while being removed no loss. Oil filter has to be taken off with an oil filter removal tool and you will need it anyways to install new one without damaging it. The only thing to be mindfull of is the oil has to be dropped piping hot nd allowed time to stop dripping from the sump. When plug is taken off oil "squirts out" almost horizontally so take precautions . Best done on a ramp with a platform to place the used oil receptacle on. I put my car on two axle stands on their lowest settings, cheapos from Screwfix. The only easier maintenance jobbie is air filter change. Bulbs are much more fiddlier and annoying to change

I didnt realise you have to take the oil out when it is hot.... Another thing I hadnt appreciated.. Will need to consider how I tackle this based on your suggestions.. so thanks..

Oh bye the way I noticed your black magic Fabia vRS is running with a CTHE engine.. What is the difference between a CAVE and a CTHE... Can you get a conversion from CAVE > CTHE...

What I need is a .briskoda.net mechanic....

that's not me, techie1 is the one

There was a list of parts changed bewteen CAVE and CTHE, some oil delivery system, valve train, somewthing else I cannot remember. Nobody knows what exact changes were made to block design or any other major parts. I do not think you can get CAVE "converted" to CTHE apart form having new engine fitted, preferably under warranty .

Sorry to be awkward & not saying this is correct. Because it is not.

I drop the oil cold,

with the Filler Cap off and the dipstick removed.

then let Gravity and Capillary Action from any dripping get the rest out.

(i even raise the rear of the car and see if any more comes out, 'I do not shake it!)

I then remove the filter housing, and replace with the new filter..

Then put in the new Drain Plug.

I measure accurately what is removed, clean the Jug & refill with my new oil and put that into the engine.

Then i start and run it, go for a gentle run, dip it check the level,

then get it hot, thrash it, stop wait 5 minutes, dip it and see what its at.

I might put a little more in but its usually dead right.

When cold again i dip it, & check once more when hot.

george

Oh ok... Sorry for the confusion.. I think its just the case of making sure the exact amount required is put back in the engine.. Would I consider a 2012 model with a CTHE... its a hard one, if I start to experience problems with my CAVE.... humm. mine one is has a load of extras on it..s2000 with the liveries, SAT Nav, Bluetooth, Rear = Amsterdan, parking sensors.. and rear electric windows...

Just gonna have to hope and pray I have not got a dud one...

Personally i do not see a CTHE engine as being any better than a good CAVE engine.

There have been already, according to 'Online Posts/internet', CTHE Engine problems.

No idea if that is Correct.

The New 2013 SEAT Ibiza Cupra has the latest engine fitted.

I would have no worries in buying a Twincharger if there is a Manufacturers Warranty on it.

Extended on a used car, and extended to 5 Years on a new car.

george

Thanks George - I think I am going to defo look into extended warrenty on the car.. Apperently I was told I can take it out anytime during the warrenty period...

I read and figured that dropping hot oil is better as in simple terms it flows better when hot . If anything the oil is out quicker in any case as I supppose both hot and cold drops would result in oil out of the engine anyways

On CTHE motor the oil plug is at the back of the sump (closer to the back of the car in vertical wall of the engine block) so lifting front will help the oil to come out better. Not sure how it is on CAVE units.

Good idea with extended warranty, I think it is very much worth it with this engine and will give you worry free motoring, which is really important. No point in driving a car and thinking "I am out of warranty, if it breaks now... ".

Whatever you do do not baby your car, it needs to be driven, high loads applied on daily basis. Not necceserily red line in every gear but drive like your livery requires!