Bet loads of you have done this so can save me cocking it up please.

 

How wide and how deep do you cut the slot? Also do you cut 2 grooves with a hacksaw then how do you remove the waste etc.?

 

Thanks

I instructed my husband to do it!  He cut two vertical grooves almost to the bottom and then used a sharp chisel to remove the unwanted material. 

 

If you send me yours I'll get him to fix it for you - he says you'll have to send him a couple of beers too

I instructed my husband to do it!  He cut two vertical grooves almost to the bottom and then used a sharp chisel to remove the unwanted material. 

 

If you send me yours I'll get him to fix it for you - he says you'll have to send him a couple of beers too

lol. Wouldn't have thought it needed to go almost to the bottom would it, wouldnt that make it weak and likely to snap? I know they are 25mm thick so if they need cutting that deep mite have to consider gluing 2 together.

Just measure the width of your sill.

 

Or use the head of the factory supplied jack (where fitted) in the boot as a guide.

 

It doesn't need to be exact, just so long as the sill will fit into it.

 

Be aware the sealant covering the sill can vary in thickness along the length of the sill, so it might fit the front and then not fit the back, or the other side sill.

Or cut a deep V and then use a square file

Excuse my ignorance but what on earth is the hockey puck???

A puck used in ice hockey

Cut a slot in it and sit it on a trolley jack to prevent crushing the sills

A puck used in ice hockey

Cut a slot in it and sit it on a trolley jack to prevent crushing the sills

Even better to use two pucks glued together and then reduce the height of one and cut the slot as usual so that in side view the profile is the same as the head of the standard jack.  This allows the car to be jacked up on the usual jacking point using a trolley jack with no contact on the sill.  If you are worried about gluing the two pucks together two metal dowels can also be inserted in drilled holes for added security but I have not found that to be necessary.

I've found the slot completely unnecessary. as long as the puck sits just behind the sill seam where the jacking point is all will be good. In fact it probably spreads the weight better over the whole puck surface (the sills on my Scout are plastic covered so weight on them would crush / damage the sill cover.

Even better to use two pucks glued together and then reduce the height of one and cut the slot as usual so that in side view the profile is the same as the head of the standard jack.  This allows the car to be jacked up on the usual jacking point using a trolley jack with no contact on the sill.  If you are worried about gluing the two pucks together two metal dowels can also be inserted in drilled holes for added security but I have not found that to be necessary.

 

Thanks for all the answers guys. Think I am going to glue 2 together due to the depth of the cut. Did you use superglue or araldite etc.?

 

Did anyone come up with a good idea to fix it to the top of the jack head? Mine is dished which could be a bit of a problem

Bought mine off Ebay with the slot already cut. I will try and find the link but just finished nights and going to bed.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=161216710441

Thanks for all the answers guys. Think I am going to glue 2 together due to the depth of the cut. Did you use superglue or araldite etc.?

 

Did anyone come up with a good idea to fix it to the top of the jack head? Mine is dished which could be a bit of a problem

Araldite.

 

Using two pucks glued together with one reduced in height on one side of the slot gives a profile akin to the Skoda supplied jack and means that there is NO contact with the surface of the sill just on the correct jacking point.  The seam of the sill just adds location in the slot of the puck to prevent slippage.

 

My trolley jack has an almost flat cup on its head with a raised edge which locates the puck.

Edited 17 November, 201411 yr by philbes

Got this sussed now guys thanks. You can buy one on ebay that is in effect 2 blocks vulcanised together that already has a nice deep slot in them. Saves a lot of hassle.

 

Ive also removed the cup from my trolly jack which was simply held on with a split pin and ordered a nice flat lathe faceplate that is just 65mm diameter. This will attach pretty easy and give me a nice flat surface to sit the block onto. It also has 3 slotted holes so I could infact secure the block from underneath with 3 self tapping screws. Genius :clap:

Edited 17 November, 201411 yr by maverick54

lol ok makes sense now!

Less than £10 on Ebay for a pre cut jack pad.

Yep the link i posted £5

Yep the link i posted £5

Not so sure the slot is deep enough in the single one is it?also weakens the block with cutting so much out. Gone for this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Car-Pinch-Weld-Deep-Trolley-Jack-Tool-Rubber-pad-block-jacking-sills-/261660168182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cec294ff6#ht_948wt_1399

Edited 17 November, 201411 yr by maverick54

Yeah that will do it!