I am a bit of an old fanny. Worrying about trivia. I bought a Fabia 2013 1.2 SE 12v 55kw that has covered 42k about a week ago from a former Skoda main dealer near Ely. The service book is hopeless as a record of work that has been carried out. Brakes don't get a mention. I like it somewhat so far, but after I washed it two days ago my brakes squeak, worse in reverse. I'm not sure if it's front or back, I'm pretty sure it's the drums. I paid for new discs and pads on the front though they weren't really needed. The last service was 39k but I had an oil and filter and air filter change. I paid for that too.

Daft I know. The PDI paper work was all ticked in the green with no work. The brake and tyre section read "wheels and tyres inspected, brake  pads 6mm and drums 4mm minimum"  but did they really do it!!

Should I presume they are fine. The squeak does pass after some miles.

Would shoes need replacing at these miles. I don't really want to contact the garage as I'm sure they'll only say, they checked them. I do have a as is month warranty but have no idea if brakes are covered. If the shoes have been replaced do you think the garage would have a record, they serviced it from new.

 

A bit of reassuring would be great.

Cheers John

I would go round all 4 corners, jack up,  spin each wheel, and make sure none of the brakes are dragging, it may also pin point which ones are squeaking.

Thank you for that.

That doesn't sound too hard to do.

Terrible little single leg jack supplied. This would be very difficult to use on any ground other than hard and dry without a plank under its heel.

 

Cheers John

 

Edited 5 November, 20187 yr by john1brittain

Welcome.

So many similar threads over the life of Mk2 Fabia in this section.    The Drum Brakes need cleaned and serviced regularly.  

Main Dealer Servicing is no guarantee that wheels are removed let alone rear Drums.

Brake fluid & the Manufacturers Guideline for changing is at 3 years and each 2 years. (Skoda CZ)

In 2008 when Mk2 Fabia were introduced that was at 2 years and each 2 years.

http://skoda.co.uk/finance-and-offers/service-and-maintenance/simply-fixed

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/444279-sticking-rear-drums/?page=2

 

Edited 5 November, 20187 yr by Offski

Possibly pivot arms for handbrake cables that are partially seized - the friction material that appears as dust through normal usage gets into the pivot post. The squeal disappearing after a few miles could be that general operation of footbrake is working the rear drums just enough to allow the arms to back off slightly.

12 hours ago, john1brittain said:

I bought a Fabia 2013 1.2 SE 12v 55kw that has covered 42k about a week ago

 

You have statutory right for 6 months to return a car to a motor trader to have any problems put right. If the trader is any good he will take a look at the car without any fuss or quibbles. It will be a normal part of his business. On your fault I had what I was convinced was a rear brake squeal. It turned out to be the front pads needed a little silicone grease on the pad / caliper sliders. Cost me £20.

 

it will probably be a simple fix for your motor trader tom rectify.

Thanks Guys

I did Jack the back wheels up and spin the wheels. Slight rub on one half turn of the wheels on both sides. Not enough to slow the wheels. No squeak.

 

I used a trolley Jack under the shock absorber bracket. The main beam has a plastic cover, I bet tyre garages break plenty of those. I wasn't convinced of the correct jacking point on the front suspension with my trolley Jack so I didn't. New discs and pads on the front. They don't get even warm after a drive so I think they are alright. Squeaking did stop after a careful drive. A sudden prod on the pedal did still result in a bit of a noise. Until I can find someone who's not death I suspect the noise could well be the front pads. Not bothered about that.

 

After reading the PDI sheet carefully, referring to the brakes and wheels it stated all wheels removed, studs greased and studs tightened correctly. Minimum wear of 4m rear drums and 6m front pads. I had a puncture the first day and removed the front wheel one stud was extra tight with no grease on the studs. Though I know they did remove the front wheels.

I phoned the dealer and asked if their service records showed a brake service or shoe replacement. I explained my reasons for my lack of confidence in, if in fact they had removed the rear drums to inspect the wear at all.

The manager told me, brake shoes usually  last much longer than 42k miles depending on the driver. This didn't answer my question. He was unaware his own PDI brake info mentioned a minimum wear or studs were greased or even the only way of measuring was by removing the drums. Does it really say that about removing the hubs, greasing studs and checking the wear limit, he asked!!

Yes, it certainly does.

Their records confirmed that full dealer service history did not include replacing rear brakes or even a brake service. Neither did records show the new discs and pads I instructed them to fit. This full dealer service history, leaves a lot to be desired.

I was asked why I suspected that they hadn't removed the rear wheels. My answer, an over tight stud and no grease on the studs, and of course the brake squeal.

It's dust only that builds up he said, but if you have removed the hubs surely you would have cleaned them.

Also I found the old balance weights were still attached as well as the new shiny weights. A pet hate of mine.

Filled with confidence I wasn't. Eventually I was told if squeaking persisted I could book it in the service dept. On the whole strangely, I don't now feel I want to.

I had the impression I was a big pain!

 

Edited 5 November, 20187 yr by john1brittain
Correction

Hi mate.

 

I really believe in peace of mind. Mine having done 100k now its had brakes all round twice not that they were needed apart from a leaking wheel cylinder.

 

Eurocar parts have offers usually 50 percent off brakes. Wait for an offer you can get front discs and pads for less than £50

 

With regard to the rear you can get a pagid rear kit half price for £40. Drums are also cheap at about £40 for the pair. Brake fluid and copper ease for £10 and its worry free cheap as chips motoring.

 

There are loads of videos on YouTube to assist fitting. 

 

Worry free motoring

Get yourself a jack pad with 20mm deep slot if you plan to raise the car regularly. This engages properly with the sill for jacking with a trolley jack. The onboard jack (aka widow maker) isn't really to be trusted unless you're on level ground, car in gear, etc.

 

Back to the drums. They are an absolute pain. At 42k miles I suspect they're using original shoes. The shoes can develop a surface glaze over time. As the drums are also prone to condensation, the springs and handbrake arm on the shoe deteriorate or seize. It's worth removing the hub to see the overall condition. I also know the wheel cylinders can fail, check for tell-tale brake fluid crystallisation.

 

If rebuilding, then shoes are cheap enough. Use a new spring kit too. One thing to note, as car gets higher mileage then hubs will develop a lip inside. Easy enough to remove with a 3M abrasive wheel flap accessory on a drill. At 100k miles, you may need to replace hubs and new shoes can't make up for the material lost on the hub, hence its is a losing battle to get them to engage properly or reduce handbrake travel, regardless of how much adjustment is made at the cable.

Edited 6 November, 20187 yr by spartacus68

That is all very helpful.

I've been away this week and not used the car. 

Euro Car Parts I have found in the past good on occasion for filters and selected parts but their discounted prices on oils and other components like EGR pumps or sensors cost a lot more than buying on line. Castrol Edge Long Life 4 litres forinstance, ECP discount price £56 Amazon/Ebay for 5 litres £28. Under £6 a litre, I bought 5 litres for topping up. The dealer when I asked just for the fun of it, how much for a simple oil change said, an eye watering £200.

My local Lynn Skoda dealer Walkers, same question, "special low price Bruce" they said £100.

Still not bad for 3.2 litres. And the level after, was low too between A and B not on A as it quoted in the hand book. The difference about a small bottle of Red Label.

I asked about an gear  box oil level inspection, it's not shown in the service book.

Do you do it?

We don't!!

Only if the customer asked for it.

Strewth!!

My local friendly garage take pride in their workmanship and don't mind me supplying my own oil and parts. Some parts anyway.

My Mondeo broke springs so often, I used to carry front and rear spare springs in my boot!

Only £22 each from Euro Car Parts.

Better than getting caught out.

£90 each  if I did. Strangely, after I started carrying spares I didn't have one break.

They were good at that, ECP that is.

 

 

 

Edited 9 November, 20187 yr by john1brittain
Correction

Now that you mentioned carrying spare springs, I had an uncle that always carried a few tools and spare rockers in the boot of his HA or HB Viva and if travelling out of town always had stuff for picnics, so, when a rocker went, he found a place for a picnic and left his wife and daughter to have some enjoyment while he attended to the rocker(s). Do doubt no one ever had a "nice day out"!

On 06/11/2018 at 21:37, spartacus68 said:

Get yourself a jack pad with 20mm deep slot if you plan to raise the car regularly. This engages properly with the sill for jacking with a trolley jack. The onboard jack (aka widow maker) isn't really to be trusted unless you're on level ground, car in gear, etc.

 

Back to the drums. They are an absolute pain. At 42k miles I suspect they're using original shoes. The shoes can develop a surface glaze over time. As the drums are also prone to condensation, the springs and handbrake arm on the shoe deteriorate or seize. It's worth removing the hub to see the overall condition. I also know the wheel cylinders can fail, check for tell-tale brake fluid crystallisation.

 

If rebuilding, then shoes are cheap enough. Use a new spring kit too. One thing to note, as car gets higher mileage then hubs will develop a lip inside. Easy enough to remove with a 3M abrasive wheel flap accessory on a drill. At 100k miles, you may need to replace hubs and new shoes can't make up for the material lost on the hub, hence its is a losing battle to get them to engage properly or reduce handbrake travel, regardless of how much adjustment is made at the cable.

 

Never heard of a Jack pad. Sounds like an excellent idea.

Where can I you get one from Spartacus buddy.

Mind you the boots not huge!

 

I have used Spartacus when booking a table or whatever.

When serving folk call out my name

 

"Mr Spartacus" 

 

All folk reply,

 

I'm S............s

 

Also similarly, sometimes,

 

Mr Allc..k

 

Jack pads can be made up to suit the profile of the area you are jacking under, I just fabricate them from wood and buy a small sheet of suitable rubber to screw down on the top and thinner rubber for lining round the slot cut to clear the folded sill welded areas.

 

My wife's current 6C Polo is a nuisance as the area near the folded sill welded areas is stepped so I'll need to make up another set as my Audi S4 set with the standard narrow slot has ended up ripping/tearing the stone guard paint coating a bit on the outer sides at the front, very annoying, I must try harder.

 

You can buy "rubber" jacking pads which might just be ice hockey pucks with a slot milled in them.

Here's the seller for jack pads. Make sure it's the 20mm slot.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/trolley-jacking-pads

 

 

Edited 10 November, 20187 yr by spartacus68

Thanks for your help.

The latest on the squeak!

it is the rear brakes. Worse now it's wet. I'm swerving round returning to the dealer  for warranty repairs. Instead my local friendly garage is inspecting, replacing all as required week on this wednesday.

 

Spartacus and best new buddies.

Another topic, alloy wheel finish repair.

 

Looks like some bright spark has dribbled brake fluid onto the wheel finish next to valve. The flat inside edge close to a stick on wheel weight.

About as round as an apple. Rubbed the bubbling with a sponge and bits of paint are peeling off. So if I slip the wheel off, rub it down with sand paper then spray paint to cover, this will do.

You can't really see the damaged paint too easily. So what is the right kit to buy for the repair please.

5 hours ago, john1brittain said:

Spartacus and best new buddies.

Another topic, alloy wheel finish repair.

 

Looks like some bright spark has dribbled brake fluid onto the wheel finish next to valve. The flat inside edge close to a stick on wheel weight.

About as round as an apple. Rubbed the bubbling with a sponge and bits of paint are peeling off. So if I slip the wheel off, rub it down with sand paper then spray paint to cover, this will do.

You can't really see the damaged paint too easily. So what is the right kit to buy for the repair please.

 

Not really worth repairing professionally unless you kerb it. I run an A4 Allroad and lightly glanced the kerb earlier this year  turning the car around in front of my house. No physical damage other than scuffing it. Pretty sure all VAG cars including Skoda use Wurth alloy paint for an exact match.

 

Remove the wheel. Sand the affected area back and flatten down using wet 3M paper with a little detergent, 800 to 1000 grit. Make sure the wheel is spotless, including the inner rim. It's not ideal spraying at this time of year given temperatures and air moisture, but needs must. If you can spray in a garage, make sure the door is open for air circulation. Mask of the tyre. Before spraying, ensure the spray-paint has been thoroughly shaken and is at room temperature. You can float can in hot water, or leave on a warm, not hot radiator. Before spraying, wipe the alloy down with Halfords paint wipes.

 

If you're not used to painting, then use light strokes in the direction of the spokes. This may take 5-6 coats to go opaque. Allow 15-20 minutes between coats. After the last coat of the silver paint, allow it to dry, say 5-10 minutes, then use the clear lacquer which effectively fuses it to the base coat. Lacquer is a dark art with the risk of drips, so same rules apply. 3-4 coats until you see a gloss appear.

 

Paint here:  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WURTH-German-Alloy-Silver-Wheel-Paint-LacquerS-WURTH-CLEAR-TOP-COAT-LAQUER/190693032823?hash=item2c6630c377:g:SeEAAOSwVWFao-xF

Edited 11 November, 20187 yr by spartacus68

Outstanding!

Thank you, exactly what I needed to know.

The shiny side is alright it's just the inner flat edge that's corroded.

Also I drive a 2005 Grand Vitara 4x4 that's been pulling boats on the beach across fields all over the place it's alloys are mint. No under coat on these Fabia rims, paint is missing in strips. This is far more complicated than I hoped. I will repair one wheel at a time, maybe in January.

 

My Service reminder spanner notice started appearing on Sunday.

Less than 350 miles since its last dealer service.

Returning from the beach yesterday, I thought I'll pop into Walkers and see how helpful they might be.

 

I didn't buy the Fabia from you and I didn't have the car serviced by you,

I have a complaint.

I explained the fault details.

 

What's your reg number please Sir.

The Lynn service lady confirmed no service information had been recorded on the Skoda web site. 

I certainly have paid for it!!I

 

Epitamy of disgression, she phoned the dealer who did.

You haven't recorded any service info on the web site, what work have you carried out.

Pollen filter, oil change, air and oil Filter.

It's now entered correctly Sir.

 

Can I have your keys please, I will reset the computer.

Excellent, I could not have done this better myself. Fifteen minutes later this very professional and helpful

lady confirmed, no additional fault has been found, all was now reset correctly. 

Earlier I had mentioned the drum squeak too. Absolutely no limits to my damned cheek. We carried out a rear brake test Sir, the rear brakes  work correctly and are fine.

Compliments only, were paid.

 

Edited 13 November, 20187 yr by john1brittain
I make mistakes I'm old. Again and again

On 13/11/2018 at 09:48, john1brittain said:

Earlier I had mentioned the drum squeak too. Absolutely no limits to my damned cheek. We carried out a rear brake test Sir, the rear brakes work correctly and are fine. Compliments only, were paid.

 

 

You must have caught them on a slow day. I've found Skoda staff very easy to deal with on the rare ocassion the car has to go to the main dealer but they certainly know how to charge. Glad to see your lack of shame knows no bounds!

The Lynn Skoda garage was very helpful. Next Thursday my local family garage is inspecting the rear brakes and hand brake, cleaning adjusting or replacing  as required.

I still think its a nice car.

Edited 14 November, 20187 yr by john1brittain
Another correction.

If you mean squeal as you are braking, the drums need removing, dust cleaning out and the shoe and drum brake faces roughed up with grit paper to remove glazing.

 

If you mean momentary squeak as handbrake or footbrake applied, the drum brakes need stripping completely. The squeak will be almost certainly coming  from the 4 small nylon pads inserted in the backing plate, the shoes slide on these and over time they wear out, so the shoes instead slide on the metal backing plate instead. The nylon pads need replacing. It will probably be not much more to fit a new shoe kit at the same time which contains shoes, springs and new slave cylinders, which often leak in old age. Note the nylon pads are not supplied the shoe kit afaik.

 

If refitting the old shoes, make sure they thoroughly free up and lubricate the parking brake lever pivot on the rear shoe. This pivot corrodes and come winter time with rain or washing,  seizes when left overnight making it difficult to release the brakes. 

 

Plenty of other threads on this forum describing this annoying "feature" of fabia drum brakes.

 

 

Item 3 are the nylon pads shown here

 

http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FAB/year/2013/drive_standart/697/hg_ug/609/subcategory/609020/part_id/2550660/lang/e

Edited 15 November, 20187 yr by xman

Hi new best buddies.

Thanks Xman, I realise I was not very specific on my squeak.

For the first time the car is squeakless.

My local garage who I'm pleased to say are utterly honest and dependable removed the drums cleaned adjusted all the bits adjusted the handbrake and checked the gear box oil.

Like new the shoes were but the drums were full of dust and crap.

Good value for £40.

Great brakes.