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Hesitating in 3rd gear when cold.

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I bought a 2016 Yeti (1.2 SEL DSG) a couple of months ago with only 8,000 miles on it and so far love it. It's so comfortable and quiet! 

 

The last few weeks I noticed when accelerating quite hard in 3rd gear it will hesitate at around 3,000 revs. The rev counter doesn't jump up or anything and theres no noises. It almost feels like my foots backing off the pedal for half a second then back on. It does this in D, S, and manual. 

 

Now this is where I'm not sure if its really an issue or not. My commute to work is only 10 mins so the engine, gearbox, clutches etc havn't fully warmed up. Friday last week a went for a longer drive and after 20 mins or so the issue went away. Every gear was smooth and felt better than ever! I didn't want to stop! I've not read about anything similar to this. All i did find was a comment about the clutch packs needing to warm up. So hopefully someone could reassure me its just a case of everything needing a little time to warm up? 

I recall having some hesitancy one or twice with our previous 1.2 DSG, which went away with a fresh tank of fuel.  It may be worth trying a tank of premium petrol, too. Try to use up almost all of the tank before you refuel so you maximise the effect of fresh fuel.

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After doing a bit more research the last few days it sounds like the turbo is not working properly until the car has been driven for 15 mins or so. I found a few cases of people saying the pressure sensor on top of the turbo can get dirty with oil so i'll have a look at this when i get home this evening. I'm new to turbo charged engines and found lots of interesting things about very short journeys all the time causing things to clog up, but unsure if that only applies to deisels? 

Hi mjsmke, I have a 2012 -1.8tsi dsg Yeti, and have experience the same or a similar issue as you. However in my case it was a gear change up into the 6th gear (top gear) from 5th gear. Here in Western Australia there can easily be an air temperature difference of 10 or even 15 degrees C from early morning (6:00am) to later in the day (10:30am or later). On the same drive, with the same driving conditions and in the same weather conditions, except for the temperature I have found that the change up from 5th to 6th gear will vary. During an early morning drive the 5th gear will be held at a given driving speed, compared to a change up to 6th gear at a later time in the day; when the air temperature is warmer. In both situations the car is being driven for the first time that day, therefore no previous warming. My thoughts about this is that the dsg fluid starts off at a slightly higher temperature and warms up quicker; later in the day. Because of this warmer commencement air temperature, the pump works easier and the dsg fluid circulates more freely, which in turn caused the gear shift from 5th to 6th to happen. My second thought is that this issue is being caused by the clutch, but am not convinced of this at this time. I do have some mechanical ability, but am not a mechanical expert, but have tried to compare equal conditions many times to determine the cause for the difference. There could be more than one possible reason for this issue, however you can make up your own mind with consideration for my input. If you find the cause of your gear change issue, please tell all about it.  Wishing you a many miles of driving pleasure!       

@Banjobach - I see your logic, but the operating temperature of the oil will be ~100C.

If talking a DQ250 DSG then no point comparing a 6 speed wet clutch DSG with a 7 speed twin dry clutch DQ200 DSG which the OP has.

 

In Australia a 2012 DQ200 DSG might well have Synthetic Oil from the factory and be part of the 'World Wide recall', 

to change that to Mineral oil and do a software update.

A 2016 DQ200 DSG will have Mineral Oil from the factory and the latest software before yet another Software Update has become available, 

and the VIN needs checked to see if this update is required or will be beneficial to the operation of the DSG.

Edited by Skoffski

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It takes about 10 mins for the oil temp to fully warm up on mine. Then after another 5 mins of driving everything is fine. 

 

Friday evening I went for a drive after the car had sat for 2.5 hours after my commute home. The oil temp then was reading 50 degrees C so still warm but not up to operating temp. From the start of that drive it seemed fine and drove it quite hard as my short commute rarely sees high revs or full operating temp. 

 

I'm wondering if it's one of the following:

 

1. It just takes longer to fully warm up. So drive it carefully for the first 20 mins. 

 

2. The MAF sensor needs cleaning and causing the engine to run too lean when cold. 

 

3. The Wastegate or EGR valves could be sticky until warmed up. 

 

Just to add. It's only done 9k miles and had one owner before me doing short journeys. So has probably never been driven that hard before. 

None of that messing about should be required in the UK even if winter weather with a 1.2 TSI.

Your coolant temp rises normally i take it and even though the engine oil takes a few miles to show 50*oC that should not have the car running badly, 

just not getting the best mpg until oil at efficient operating temp.

 

Maybe get a tank of 97 ron Super unleaded in from Sainsburys, Esso, BP etc

or 99 ron Tesco Momentum 99 or Shell V-Power Nitro +

 

Check the Air Filter and see if clean.

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Thanks. I'll give the air filter a check this afternoon. While I'm doing that I'll check the pipes for any blockages. 

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Just had a look in the air filter. What a pain to get to! It was filled with leaves, acorns, small twigs etc. Hoping that could be causing the hesitation when cold. Not had a chance to test it yet but I'll update later this evening or tomorrow. 

14 minutes ago, mjsmke said:

the air filter. What a pain to get to! It was filled with leaves, acorns, small twigs etc.

Well, there's one of your problems anyway. I think a new element is also indicated if you haven't just done it.

A 3 year old car with only 8,000 miles, but even if not serviced on fixed servicing just a major service at 2 years the air filter should be checked.

No point a tech / dealership saying they are a 40,000 mile service item if that would be maybe ever 8 years.

The Pollen / cabin filter likely needs looking at, or at least a vacuum and clean around the area.

http://volkswagen.co.uk/owners/servicing/regimes

 

I have had both a 2012 1.2 DSG and now a 2017 1.2 DSG. Both ran a lot better on ‘Super’ petrol whether from supermarkets or major oil companies, after brim to brim MPG testing I confirmed that the extra pence per litre was more than offset by better MPG - much smoother driving and more torque at lower revs. Best was probably Shell V power Nitro but as there aren’t any convenient Shell stations near me so I usually use Sainsburys best. I would suggest, like Zib, you try a few tankfuls of premium fuel to see if that eliminates the problem. If your commute is only 10 minutes each way the engine is not going to get anywhere near optimum temperature and frankly repeatedly driving such short distances is going to be an engine killer - make sure you do at least one 40 minute brisk drive a week and get your engine oil changed at least every 12 months, or more sensibly every 6 months. And certainly use premium fuel for it’s extra cleaning additives.

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Update. I took it back to my local Skoda dealer on Monday. Driving there I didn't notice any hesitation or loss of power. But then it was much warmer outside. They scanned the car and checked for error codes and there were none. I explained the leaves blocking the air filter/intake and they said that was probably the issue. 

Today I noticed the fault driving home from work, not as much as before but still felt it. If I'm light on the throttle it's fine. Then once the oil temp got to 70 and above the fault goes away. 

 

Maybe this is just a case of driving carefully until the oil temp reaches running temp? 

Not really. It is not a characteristic and it is not running right.  Best find out what is wrong.

Worth getting a tank fill of Super Unleaded and see if even a slight difference.

?

Is there a new Air Filter in now?

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I've ordered a new filter so hope to fit that this weekend. The current one didn't look dirty at all but still worth a try. 

 

As for fuel, I'll try a tank of premium when I next fill up. There's a quarter tank left. 

 

11 hours ago, mjsmke said:

I've ordered a new filter so hope to fit that this weekend. The current one didn't look dirty at all but still worth a try. 

 

As for fuel, I'll try a tank of premium when I next fill up. There's a quarter tank left. 

 

Try the premium and get Shell V Power Nitro if you can. You will probably find it takes a couple of tank fulls to get the full benefit. Best of luck.

There is Diesel or Premium Diesel in the UK, 

& then 'Unleaded' or 'Super Unleaded',

not Premium Petrol, just Super Unleaded with different Octanes.

 

You are not needing the Detergents / Additives just the higher octane.

So  'Super Unleaded' not that expensive over other branded 95 ron from Sainsubry's, Sainsburys Super Unleaded 97 ron minimum,

or the more expensive ESSO, BP, Gulf etc 97 ron minimum,

or Tesco Momentum 99 which is 99 ron minimum , or the overpriced Shell V-Power Nitro + will do the job and the ECU will know from the first tank it is running higher octane than 95 ron Unleaded.

Edited by Skoffski

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It turns out the clutch is slipping. More obvious this morning. Strange that it doesn't do it when it's up to temperature though. 

Booked in for an inspection but not happy when it's only done 9k miles. 

Will certainly not be keeping it up to 18k. 

As long as the Master Tech or the Tech does not say 'never heard of that before'.  They just need to check the TPI on your age of DQ200.

Screenshot 2019-05-16 at 15.49.38.png

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I'm a bit worried about the gearbox now. Having read about the DQ200 issues I regret buying it. Even if the dealer replaces it, what happens in 2 years time when it goes again? 

When or if the warranty provider Skoda / VW UK replace the clutch packs and do a software update the Warranty is only as long as the Manufacturers Warranty lasts, 

so 3 years, or the 12 months of a Used Car Warranty, so ask / fight for a 2 year warranty extension free due to the 'known issues'.

 Then when that expires buy a Skoda Extended Warranty.  They will sell it and should not then say 'Known Issues' because supposedly they are dealing with the 'Known issues' and resolving them.

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The warranty extension is a good idea. If they can cover just the gearbox and clutches for another 2 years I'll be happy. I only do about 5k miles a year so would expect them to cover it. 

 

A very odd thing this morning...from cold the car was fine. No hesitation or slips in 3rd gear. So wondering if it might be something software related. 

Its frustrating because there's no error codes and if it doesn't do it when it's with the dealer next week I don't know where I stand. 

No error codes means nothing other than a Tech can say there were no error codes.

Have them check if there is a TPI covering your DSG built when it was built, and if this is on the Clutch Packs and if there is a software update as well as Clutch Packs.

 

They should have done that already.

You report the issue while in Warranty, and that should be on the system and if the tech can not identify an issue now and the TPI is not related to your DSG production period 

then at least you contacted the Approved Repairers and did all that you can do. 

 

As it is there is the Engine to be running correctly and the DSG to be, and either can affect the others performance.

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