How to remove Octy II door cards / speaker sizes

[humsk]

Here’s how to remove the passenger door card (door trim panel) :

1 – Remove tweeter grill/window lift switch – I use a 6” steel rule but careful use a screwdriver will work. Disconnect the harness connector

2 – Remove the T20 Torx screw from behind the door lock lever.

3 – Carefully prise the door grab handle cover off – on the lower front edge is a small square hole – insert a screwdriver a lever the cover off.

4 – Remove the two T30 Torx screws (either end of the door pull)

5 – Remove the two T15 Torx screws along the lower edge of the door card

6 – Prise out and remove the courtesy light - disconnect the harness connector

7 – Prise the door card off. It is held in place by six plastic clips (three each side). I used a 12” steel rule to carefully lever between the card and door frame (protecting the paint work with cardboard). I still managed to damage two clips – they are meant to be single use items.

8 – Lift the card out of the channel next to the glass.

9 – Disconnect the tweeter harness (connector is covered in a foam sleeve)

10 – Disconnect the door pull cable – unclip the outer clamp first.

The door construction is the same as the Fabia – metal inner panel pop-riveted to the door frame. This panel is quite thin and will benefit from a few layers of sound deadening material. I intend to remove the panel, apply material to the outer door skin and both sides of the inner panel before re-fitting it.

The bass unit is 175mm in diameter and is integral to the plastic mounting surround, which is 50mm deep. This means that replacing the speakers will require a new surround – not sure if there is anything commercially available otherwise it’s MDF and get the jigsaw out.

There is plenty of space around the bass unit so going for a larger speaker may be possible. The mid unit on the 12 speaker system screws into four ready moulded posts. I’m considering adding front mid units to improve the sound stage – I need to ask the dealer if the speaker grills are available. The mid units are 3.5” with a cut-out in the door card of 3.25”.

*** See my posts below on the rear doors and driver's door ***

[Makefish]

Any reason for ripping out standard fit ICE?. I have been impressed with mine (miles better than the Mk1 Octy) and thought there was no need to upgrade it. What are your plans I ask myself?.

[humsk]

Simple answer is I don't like the sound - the bass can be a little uncontrolled and the mid to high frequencys have poor clarity IMO. Depends on the music I'm listening to - some stuff is fine.

Problem is that I upgraded my Octy I with a Rockford Fosgate HU, Infinity components & co-axials, and a little sound deadening. When I sold the car, all of the kit was removed and the original kit when back in - it sounded awful.

You're right that it's streets ahead of the mk1 but basically I'm a fussy bugger who spends a fair bit of time in the car and likes decent sound.

[humsk]

HI folks,

Got around to looking at the rear doors at the weekend. Removal of the door cards is identical to the front passenger except there are no T15 Torx screws along the lower edge of the card. There are 7 plastic clips holding the cards onto the door frame - 3 along each side and one at the bottom.

*** see later post below for details on the driver's door ***

[humsk]

Forgot to mention that the rear door speakers are 140mm (5.5") diameter and have an in-built spacer like the front speakers that is 38mm deep. Again, it is pop rivetted to the door frame. With a suitable home brew mount you could get a 6" speaker in but I'm not sure about the depth - I didn't remove the speaker has I hadn't got any suitable sized rivets at hand. The tweeters are the same as the front ones.

[dobber]

Thanks for the nice guide, still waiting for the update regarding driver door

[humsk]

Thanks to dobber for reminding me to add the final details regarding the driver’s door card. Removing it is best done when the weather is warm – makes the plastic clips more pliable and less likely to break.

It's basically the same as the front passenger door except for the door pull and electric window switch panel. This is secured by 5 clips as shown in the first photo. You need to prise it up vertically without damaging the plastic or door card. I used a steel rule under the rear edge of the panel and a good yank upwards.

Disconnect the door pull / switch panel wiring loom.

Remove the three Torx T-30 screws recessed in the door card - see second photo (ignore the smaller screw).

Continue as the original post above ignoring steps 3 and 4.

[Tom_vRS]

This is really useful, many thanks.

The standard stereo is barely acceptable imho. Miles better than most car stereos, but still miles of room for improvement also.

I think I will be popping off the door cards in the near future to get some sound deadening in, and wire up some behind the handle lights like the L&K

[Hedge]

If you are going to remove the door cards at any time make sure you have some of the green clips spare.

They are very brittle and easily damaged but they are pretty cheap. My dealer had to order them in though.

[Tom_vRS]

I've got a good few kicking about, circa 6p each IIRC.

[KBPhoto]

Given that the inner panel (made of metal) is riveted in and they need to be drilled out to remove the panel, what do you use to put it back?

ETKA says to use 'tear rivets' but I have no idea what these are.

Anyone have any idea or suggestions from experience?

[humsk]

Given that the inner panel (made of metal) is riveted in and they need to be drilled out to remove the panel, what do you use to put it back?

ETKA says to use 'tear rivets' but I have no idea what these are.

Anyone have any idea or suggestions from experience?

For 'tear rivets' read blind or "pop" rivets. I didn't remove the inner panels after all as I couldn't release the window glass clamps from the runners. Instead I just added a few layers of sound deadening mat to the panel. You can get the rivets from your Skoda dealer - I didn't find an alternative source.

Cheers,

Andrew

Edited 10 February, 2011 by humsk

[KBPhoto]

For 'tear rivets' read blind or "pop" rivets. I didn't remove the inner panels after all as I couldn't release the window glass clamps from the runners. Instead I just added a few layers of sound deadening mat to the panel. You can get the rivets from your Skoda dealer - I didn't find an alternative source.

Thanks for that - I may be taking my drivers door to pieces soon to fix a problem and knowing that I will be able to put it back together is always a comfort before starting.

[KBPhoto]

If you are going to remove the door cards at any time make sure you have some of the green clips spare.

Are these the right green clips? Would like to have everything ready before starting. Just in case...

[humsk]

Are these the right green clips? Would like to have everything ready before starting. Just in case...

Yep, looking at the photo, those are the ones. If you can get the door warm - either working inside a heated garage or leaving the car in the sun, there's less chance the clips will break.

Cheers,

Andrew

[KBPhoto]

Thanks humsk. Will get some in a wait for a warm day...

[Hedge]

Are these the right green clips? Would like to have everything ready before starting. Just in case...

Can't rightly remember now but they were only 7p at the dealers.

[dainott]

Anyone changed their rear speakers lads as looking for a speaker adapters and wondering if the same as the fronts can be used to increase speaker size to 6.5 inch or if people just fitted 5.25 inch components in the rear?

[Hedge]

I had 6.5 inch coaxials in my '06 Octy. Something like this would work.

http://www.passionauto.co.uk/products/autoleads-sak-3108-vw-golf-mk5-03-rear-speaker-adaptors.html?gshopping

[dainott]

yea got a set of the fronts for thew 16.5cm speakers but cant tell if these are the correct fitment for the 5 door and will then allow the fitment of 16.5cm in the back or if it wont work on the octy door card etc.

Hedge you saying you had 16.5cm speakers fitted in the rear of your 06 with these adapters? Be landed if you have

Edited 8 November, 2011 by dainott

[RangerMD]

yea got a set of the fronts for thew 16.5cm speakers but cant tell if these are the correct fitment for the 5 door and will then allow the fitment of 16.5cm in the back or if it wont work on the octy door card etc.

Hedge you saying you had 16.5cm speakers fitted in the rear of your 06 with these adapters? Be landed if you have

16.5 cm, 62 mm depth speakers fit without adapters. Fitted them last month, I think is good to know.

[somean49]

Hi, these posts are all very useful so far.  I am trying to replace a door mirror unit on the O/S.  I have followed all the steps but have hit a snag in that the door card will not lift away from the channel.  The end nearest the mirror seems fixed down - maybe by the electric mirror cable?.  The card will "waggle" but not come free.  I dread doing damage having swooned at the price of the mirror unit.

 

PS The [electronic] workshop manual is pretty useless on this subject

[ryan-re]

if you have removed all the screws and un popped the poppers the only thing holding the trim to the door is the cable for opening the door. You just pop it up and out of the channel then remove the cable from the trim then the trim comes away.

 

Just give it a wiggle, there isnt anything holding it on. No clips, no cables etc etc

[RIncewindwiz]

Hi All,

I am struggling with this a bit trying not to break anything!

Post 7 talks about "You need to prise it up vertically without damaging the plastic or door card. I used a steel rule under the rear edge of the panel and a good yank upwards."

 

I've tried with a screwdriver but there seems to be no give at all and I worry if I level harder I'll break the plastic. Am I levering in the right place? (I'll also try to find a wider piece of metal so I can level on the entire length - perpendicular to the door that is)

Edited 1 April, 2016 by RIncewindwiz

[RIncewindwiz]

OK Update - I've a piece of metal under the entire rear edge resting on a screwdriver and I am pressing down on the other end of the metal pretty hard.. I can see the seam (under the grab handlle) separating but there are no signs of the top section popping out.  Have I missed a screw or something (Only 1 screw out so far and not in this area)