Air Filter change

[Skodaru]

How do you gain access to air filter no obvious clips like normal

[AGFalco]

1 hour ago, Skodaru said:

How do you gain access to air filter no obvious clips like normal

 

Which engine?

 

Thanks AG Falco

[TheFozzy]

1 hour ago, Skodaru said:

How do you gain access to air filter no obvious clips like normal

Assuming you have the 1.2L petrol, you will need to get some pliers, loosen the two jubilee clips highlighted in the first image, and pull the pipes off the air filter housing.

 

Then pull the air filter up, it is held in place with 3 ball clips.

 

You can then lift the air filter up part way and rotate it enough to access the bottom of the air filter housing.

 

You will find 2 Phillip's head screws holding it together, undo them and push the 4 integrated clips to undo the air box.

 

You now have access to the air filter

 

If you have a different engine, I would assume it is a fairly similar process

[Skodaru]

Sorry guys should have said 3 cyl 1.0 tsi 

[TheFozzy]

I don't have any experience working on this engine so the best i can do is send diagrams.  Below is the diagram of the air filter housing and its construction, use this as a guide to take it apart and put it back together.  As for removing the air box, there are another two images below with instructions on how to remove the air filter housing from the engine bay.

 

[Skodaru]

Thefozzy excellent much appreciated 

[PaulBradford]

A bit late, but I just joined Briskoda to find out how to change the air and cabin filters. Our daughter's 1.0 TSI is slightly different to the above, but easier in my opinion. 11 Torq T20 screws holding on the lid of the airbox. The two screws in the middle of the box are the same length as all of the others, so not possible to mess up. At five minutes, that has got to be the quickest air filter change I have ever done, including wiping around the box.

The cabin filter was just as easy.

[Grd3105]

So I ordered a T20 screwdriver to remove the one screw listed in the diagram only to find that it's too small so Im assuming the next size up is the T25?

[PaulBradford]

Yes, T25 is the next size. To save you from buying another one, check in your toolbox. A lot of screwdriver bit sets include several Torq bits of the popular sizes.

Paul

[Grd3105]

Thanks Paul but I don't have any like that. Ill order the T25 and hope it fits

[nta16]

Just remembered - have a look in the car's toolkit in the boot there might be a double-ended Torx screwdriver that's a T25 one end (possibly the end hidden in the handle).

 

 

Edited 19 September, 2021 by nta16

[Grd3105]

Thanks but already checked and nothing there.

[nta16]

No screwdriver or different size?

 

A tip, er, if you buy those er, tips, or tip set, don't get the hollow (security, or many other names given to them) Torx tips (or screwdrivers) to use on standard non-hollow (non-security) fittings otherwise the tip (or driver, er, tip) can twist and distort, guess how I know.

 

Also the standard Torx and security/hollow/TS are 6-point but you can also get 5-point security/hollow fittings and er, tips, guess how I know that, but I don't think I've seen any on the Fabia (on GM Vauxhall and possibly VW though).

 

Edited 19 September, 2021 by nta16

[nta16]

Just in case you've missed the Torx double-ended screwdriver as the head of the handle of it is black (plastic) and looks like a (17mm?) socket thing just sticking out of the polystyrene in the boot spare wheel well, see attached image, one end looks T25 to me.

 

If not, another tip, if you buy a set of er, tips then don't buy the really cheap ones as they can be poorly made and possibly damage the fitting's socket making it awkward even if you get a good quality tool.  I've bought US Pro / Bergen which are lower priced but very reasonable build quality for the price and occasional use.

 

I much prefer a proper Torx (screw)driver with handle and shaft to those tips but sometimes there's only room for those tips in a ratchet handle unless you remove other stuff that's in the way which can be a pain and unnecessary risk.

 

 

Edited 19 September, 2021 by nta16
speeling and stuff

[Grd3105]

Thanks guys

[rum4mo]

@nta16, re getting things wrong, I got it into my head that my car, a 2011 S4, used T27, so, after doing a dummy run in what is needed to replace absolutely every filament light bulb, I bought a compact bit+socket set, a very long 1/4" hex drive extension and a T27 bit as that was missing from the Bacho set I bought - but so far I've never discovered any fixings that used the T27 size, so I reckon that I was wrong there!

 

Five spline fixings, most  car makers reserve them for bit the normal motorist should never have to remove - just to avoid someone messing things up.

 

I totally agree with only buying good quality bits, while I was getting access to every filament light bulb on my car and my wife's 2015 Polo, I became aware that the T20 was now worn and the T27 had been partially twisted - so its spines were longer straight, so I replaced them with Wera ones, and bought an extra T27 for my kit in my car.

 

My car came with that screwdriver with the built in wheel bolt spinner in the head and with both Torx and Flat double ended bits, my wife's Polo came with the same screwdriver with the double ended Torx bit, so I bought one with the Flat/Straight double ended bit from ebay, added the Flat/Straight double ended bit to her kit and kept the handle too grab and spin wheel bolts when changing wheels in the garage. My daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra, I seem to remember did not come with any screwdriver at all, so I bought one for her again from ebay - but as usual, it can be tricky to find one at a sensible price, I'd advise anyone thinking of buying that sort of original tool, to check the price from any local VW Group dealer before paying an eBay seller a lot of money for a used one, but sometimes eBay makes for convenience.

[nta16]

I've just had a look at a Wera T27 screwdriver, with very useful ball end tip, very nice but certainly not cheap or inexpensive.  I don't think my income or use could justify too many of those but they'd be good to own.  I really dislike the driver bits as most seem to be part of the throw-away society as you can buy them in sets of multiplies but they can have there uses and if well made not designed as disposable "consumables". 

 

The Torx 5-point hollow/security (Torx seem to get lots of different names) fixings as you say are on items the manufacturer doesn't want the owners to touch but then wasn't the whole Torx and other newer fittings originally used on cars to put people off other than taking the car back to the dealer.

 

The only 5-point Torx security bits I could find at reasonable price for a once or twice only on someone else's vehicle were US Pro in 3/8" sockets (not even 1/42)  which made them a bit big and cumbersome in use.  I did wonder how the bits are held into the sockets and whether I could bash them out to use with stand 1/4" drive adapter.

 

I didn't notice the fitting I was trying to undo was 5-point and had never heard of such so when the 6-point TS25 and TS27 didn't fit I thought perhaps there was a TS26 that was factory/dealership specials.

 

rum4mo are you sure the plastic handle end is for wheel bolt spinning (although I've no idea what else it's use would be) as the socket part seems quite shallow and the plastic not over robust, surely fingers and wheel brace cover the need, unless the handle is for other uses or models of car, there are some funny slots in the plastic handle.

 

I remember when we had the Estelle 2s in mid-80s that the tool kit that came with the cars were noted aby the usually very mocking newspaper and motoring-press as robust and comprehensive which to me just showed how at the time the other car manufacturers must have been cutting down or cutting out the cars' tool kits as the ones in the Estelle 2s seemed pretty standard to me and certainly not comprehensive (if that was the word they used, I can't remember now).

 

[Grd3105]

Ok so T25 it is! Not sure if buying an aftermarket panel filter is the way to go, lots of divided views as usual. But if nothing else it's reusable. Just bought a 67 plate Monte Carlo 1.0 TSI and pulled the cabin filter......wish I hadn't.

[rum4mo]

58 minutes ago, Grd3105 said:

Ok so T25 it is! Not sure if buying an aftermarket panel filter is the way to go, lots of divided views as usual. But if nothing else it's reusable. Just bought a 67 plate Monte Carlo 1.0 TSI and pulled the cabin filter......wish I hadn't.

 

Buying Mann filters cheaply just means buying what VW Group fitted at factory, but now being bought without any VW Group identity on it, same for cabin filter, I've been buying Mann Frecious cabin filters for a few years now.

[rum4mo]

@nta16, yes that screwdriver is also intended to be used to assist with refitting the wheel bolts, no real damaging torque needs to be applied via it, it is just meant to help hold the wheel bolts and help offer them up into the recessed or counterbored points in the wheels, especially the alloy wheels as the bolts end up almost flush with the outer surface of the wheel - a lot easier than using the wheel brace, though I've never ever used car's supplied wheel braces, always added my own. Maybe that comes from lessons learned many many years ago on Land Rovers, all that you could expect from the factory supplied wheel brace was for it to fold its handle round, and that was on LRs that had regular maintenance and correctly torqued wheel nuts, similarly the screw jack would rather wind its second section down into the ground than lift the first section up under the axle, good old BMC controlled LR at its classic best.

 

I think I also ended up buying some crazy sized Torx socket bits, and yes again US Pro rings a bell - good and strong, but they needed plenty space to get into the fixing, something that is normally not always available.

 

If I'm being kind to "makers of stuff" Torx and Spline/Multi Spline/XZN and Ribe came about as they are able to handle higher torque and more useful with industrial tooling including automated tooling.

[nta16]

56 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Buying Mann filters cheaply just means buying what VW Group fitted at factory, but now being bought without any VW Group identity on it, same for cabin filter, I've been buying Mann Frecious cabin filters for a few years now.

I was about to put Mann (Hummel) are good filters at a good price.

 

I'm amazed that air filters are at such long intervals for replacement, in the old cars filters were changed at least every year if not 6-months in normal conditions, 2 years would be a maximum for me when they say 4 years.  Any debris is going to inside the engine to wear it and a dirty filter will be reducing efficiency and make everything work that little bit harder unnecessarily.  Same for engine oil & filter (Mann do reasonable oil filters too and possibly also make them for other labels/brands) regular timely changing with good quality oil will have the engine running better and for more years.

 

Mann C 22 035 air filter according to their on-line catalogue. - https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS %2B TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Fabia III (NJ3, NJ5)/1.0 TSI CHZB, DKLD (T00000000332458)/Air Filter/C 22 035 

 

Other Mann parts with fitting instructions for cabin filters. - https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/vehicle/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS %2B TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Fabia III (NJ3, NJ5)/1.0 TSI CHZB, DKLD (T00000000332458)

 

ETA:

grd3105

I've added this to give you more confidence in them perhaps, Mann+Hummel own quite a few filter brands including the original manufacturer of oil filters Purolator (pure oil later) . - https://www.mann-hummel.com/en/brands.html

Edited 20 September, 2021 by nta16
ETA:

[rum4mo]

Oh yes, prior to getting proper workshop manuals, I've used that site info on how to replace the cabin filter on a few cars, as it can sometimes save damaging things - and speed up doing that job for the first time.

 

With some VW Group engine families, Mahle oil filters are fitted at engine plants, while only Mann VW branded oil filters are sold as service parts and used in VW Group workshops, I've just followed VW Group's lead and buy Mann oil filters for any VW Group cars that I have worked on.

[nta16]

Fair enough, the screwdriver handle socket didn't look deep enough to gain much purchase or balance to the bolt but it must do (stupid bolts instead of studs gave me sciatica but I won't tell that tale again here).  I've only used a deep socket so wouldn't really know and being a miserable old-fart fashion wheels annoy me.

 

A mate had an original Disco not long after they first became available and within 18 months the interior panels were warped, all those 'skylights', and the step and rear ladder rusty.  For it's size and weight it do go well though as he had the less popular (3.5) V8.  He told me he'd been told it'd do 19mpg around town same as his 3 litre Granny, after I realised he was serious I couldn't stop laughing.

 

I can't fully go with your kindness about needing torque for a T20 fitting, I (almost) sure I remember new tools being required for French cars decades back and I think that might have been Torx, I suspect it was to get the cars back to dealerships for work.

 

Mann+Hummel own quite a few filter brands including the original manufacturer of oil filters Purolator (pure oil later) . - https://www.mann-hummel.com/en/brands.html

 

[nta16]

More O/T I know but any idea how I could bash the tips out of these sockets I bought? - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203287084374

 

I bought these to see how poor they are and a set each for my two neighbours who thought they already had them in their tip sets but hadn't (I forgot the term tamper-proof), this set is crap , a couple of tips in the set I wouldn't trust for just one use as the hollows didn't look centred. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265174239529

 

To replace my twisted TS25 / T25H and to add a TS27 / T27H which I didn't have, and give my neighbour them too, I bought these Bosch and the same in DeWalt to look for any difference in quality but my neighbour suggested we have one out each set  to distinguish the sizes as we both have poor eyesight. -  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303761062121 & https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164692399202 

 

I'll probably never use them, I didn't even know the ones I already had were the security type as I've never had to use them, they were just in the socket set along with E sockets which I've only lent out for use once.

 

Edited 20 September, 2021 by nta16

[rum4mo]

I've never tried to remove bits from their socket mounting, I'd think that they are in there for good!

 

My US Pro 1/4 or 3/8 set are "one piece" - I mean not "two part" like the ones you bought so really not handy at all, and probably security ones, just bought because -------.

 

I've only started buying quality like Wera 1/4" hex bits to replace damaged poorer/unknown quality ones as and when they end up in a bad state, I don't like ball ended hex/torx tools as normally they are intended to be used to remove lightly torqued and clean fixings ending up finding that you need to use them near or way beyond their useful limits just ends up with the fixings head damaged. Though ball ended is handy for the initial screwing in and the later unscrewing of clean fixings.

Edited 20 September, 2021 by rum4mo