Just had my yeti French mot'd, passed, although ref to the rubber disc connection, the outer metal rim has parted from the rubber core, have been looking for a listed topic, can't find it, anyone got a link to the posting, and also a part number?

Thanks

Edited 11 February, 20224 yr by Frenchtone

You'll possibly have difficulty finding a part number for the unit only as I think Skoda only do it as a complete propshaft and doughnut coupling (or at least that's what I found for our Octavia when I was looking).

 

Try searching for an Audi A3 part instead and I'll try and check what I found later today.  From memory the part is about £100...

This could be the part number : 1K0 521 307 A

1 hour ago, Kenny R said:

This could be the part number : 1K0 521 307 A

 

That's the one I had earmarked for our Octavia...

 

Direct Replacement for original part #:
1K0521307A

OE Part # for reference purposes only



SKODA OCTAVIA Combi (1Z5)
1.6 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CAYC
1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAB
1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAA
1.9 TDI 4x4 - Engine: BKC, BLS, BXE
2.0 FSI 4x4 - Engine: BLX, BVX
2.0 TDI 16V 4x4 - Engine: CFHC
2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CFHF
2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: BMM


SKODA SUPERB (3T4)
1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAB
1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAA
2.0 TDI 16V 4x4 - Engine: CFFB
2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CBBB, CFGB
3.6 FSI 4x4 - Engine: 3597 ccm
3.6 V6 4x4 - Engine: CDVA


SKODA SUPERB Estate (3T5)
1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAA
1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAB
2.0 TDI 16V 4x4 - Engine: CFFB
2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CBBB, CFGB
3.6 V6 4x4 - Engine: CDVA


SKODA YETI (5L)
1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAB
1.8 TSI 4x4 - Engine: CDAA
2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CFHF
2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CEGA, CFJA
2.0 TDI 4x4 - Engine: CBDB, CFHC, CLCB

Yeap, thanks for that, here a la frog just over £100 equivalent!

So , is it a relatively easy task? I have ramps etc

4 hours ago, Frenchtone said:

So , is it a relatively easy task? I have ramps etc

 

My outer metal ring is becoming detached in places, and I looked at replacing late last year.

It looks easy, but there is a central sleeve in the coupling and a male extension of the propshaft which centralises the assy. There is little or no room to move the prop shaft forward, it's sort of locked in. The only way I could see was to unbolt the centre bearing, possibly move the exhaust a little in order to kink the prop shaft and effectively shorten it.

I decided that the weather, old age etc was enough to put it off, but I need to get it sorted as well at 120k. The joint does not have to act as a U/J much - everything is in a straight line. It seems to be a drive line damper, working with the dmf clutch to reduce low rev firing impulses, and the outer metal ring is a normal sort of torsional vibration damper.

I can only wonder what happens when all the remaining bits of bonding fail and the metal ring will clang about the U/J /prop shaft. I must find an indie to get this done as soon as possible 😨

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/484984-yeti-4x4-rear-oise-driving-me-mad

 

Edited 11 February, 20224 yr by roottoot

I haven't had a proper look as yet, the test centre guy called me over to show me the problem, couldn't look properly as he was running out of time before the next scheduled test  --  hopefully I can look over the weekend!!

Edited 13 March, 20224 yr by Frenchtone

On 11/02/2022 at 20:20, Frenchtone said:

I haven't had a proper look as yet, the test cetre guy called me over to show me the problem, couldn't look properly as he was running out of time before the next scheduled test  --  hopefully I can look over the weekend!!

 

And, any luck?

 

I've had another look and it's out of my range of abilities. It looks easy, but there is a bush (plastic?) in the rubber joint which centralises the coupling on a spur on the Haldex drive shaft flange. "Bending" the propshaft by the centre bearing/ U/J would help, but the prop shaft needs to go forward axially to clear the stub on the Haldex flange without damaging the centralising bush. So, moving the engine /gearbox forward enough to clear the stub is a challenge if you have not done it before. The bush is only a rigid centralising bit in the rubber joint, and needs to be kept undamaged. 

The joint is not a U/J in the traditional sense, it doesn't need to bend. It seems to be simply a "flexible" rubber insert in the driveline to absorb shock impulses like the DMF, and the metal outer ring is just a damper. 

I could get brutal with levers/ prybars etc, but caution prevails and I'll get an indie to do it. 

As yet no chance / time,I have just started some radio therapy(no, not Radio 2) and after about 6 mins I just feel f***ed, I am told it gets better, also the temperature is quite low and windy with it, I am quite exposed to the western approaches. So, hopefully soon I'll be able to grovel about.

Taken my Yeti into my local village garage today - just had a phone call to say local suppliers say hard to find and joint +/- £600. I've told them b******s, I can source one for £102.15 + postage, and they have just come back and said a fairly local VAG indie can get one for +/- £150.00. They are going ahead with the car up in the air to see how to move the propshaft/ engine forward about an inch and remove it while they are waiting for the joint to arrive.

 

No hurry for me, I can break out my trusty Suzuki SJ 413 (208k) to run around in - my sort of car, you can fix with a hammer and a handful of basic tools 😉

1 hour ago, Yety said:

Taken my Yeti into my local village garage today - just had a phone call to say local suppliers say hard to find and joint +/- £600. I've told them b******s, I can source one for £102.15 + postage, and they have just come back and said a fairly local VAG indie can get one for +/- £150.00. They are going ahead with the car up in the air to see how to move the propshaft/ engine forward about an inch and remove it while they are waiting for the joint to arrive.

 

No hurry for me, I can break out my trusty Suzuki SJ 413 (208k) to run around in - my sort of car, you can fix with a hammer and a handful of basic tools 😉

 

The £600 quote could be for a full propshaft and joint as Skoda will only supply as a complete unit and not the rubber joint separately...

Well, it's done. Much to my surprise the car sounds quieter, drives "better", more new car feel.

 

Since I've had the car from new and it's on 122k, it now seems to have a new lease of life - not that there was anything really wrong with it. A lot of pushing/pulling/levering did not show any joint movement/ slackness - but I'm happier now.  

Great, well done, I haven't had an opportunity to look as yet, and said opportunity has just disappeared into the distance, I need to have 6 weeks of radio therapy, which, I am assured  will leave me weak and tired, so roll on easter or thereafter!

The local village garage decided against moving the engine forwards a little, but seemed to have slackened the Haldex/diff unit in the subframe enough to swop over the coupling - supporting the diff weight on a gearbox jack with two guys juggling the fitting, and one on the jack. The exhaust and some shields had to be moved out of the way  - if they had to do another one, it wouldn't take as long. 

 

They said no way would any normal person try to do this out in the road on their backs 😲

 

Any way, further mileage has confirmed the noise level has dropped, I can tell as I normally run with with the rear seats removed and drive noise is more evident.

That is good to know, mine will get a much closer inspection and be replaced if I am in any doubt, I have the same mileage.

 

Nobody has ever described me as a normal person so if you can hear swearing in French then you will know where it is coming from.

 

From your description of the pilot pin, whose purpose is to prevent the propshaft dropping if the joint fails I had already decided that I could create enough clearance without shifting the engine position, your garage seems to have confirmed this.

 

At  my next house that I take posession of soon I will be fitting a vehicle lift in the workshop, the trouble is that can't hapen until after several years of renovation and hence several years of grovelling on my back in the gloom and not being able to exert sufficient force for many driveline & suspension jobs.

 

I will have earned it by the time I get the vehicle lift but will I still have the enthusiasm and youth to make proper use of it?

On 11/02/2022 at 15:53, Frenchtone said:

Yeap, thanks for that, here a la frog just over £100 equivalent!

 

€88 now from Germany with free delivery if you havn't already ordered.

 

Hope your treatment is going well.

I had my Yeti CT'd today, it was not by my pal but his employee, I said I wanted to have a gander at the propshaft rear coupling & he said it was fine but I had a good look anyway, the rubber looked good but I could see a perfect geometric wavy line going all round the coupling, when I heaved on the harmonic balancer it moved easily back and forth axially along the fracture line but was rigid circumferentially, it would also ring if you tapped it.

 

It was on my list to change and I'm hoping it will remove some or all of the transmission noise, its not dangerous as it is not weakened in its torque transmission capacity but in time the balance ring will start to oscillate and maybe fall off.

 

No good deed goes unpunished, my reward for educating the tester was a CT fail for défaillance majeure  but this being France I got a windscreen vignette valid for 2 months, the time I have to do the repairs and submit for a contra visite.

 

One of the rear anti roll bar drop links had pulled the rubber out of the joint and completely detached, I checked them both very thoroughly not many weeks back when I replaced the front suspension struts and they were in perfect condition then, no play, no deterioration, I ordered front drop links and would have ordered rears had I had any doubt.

 

So I have been driving with no rear anti-roll stiffness, other than hearing and feeling a clonk when it must have detached I could not tell, the handling was unchanged within my driving limits.

 

Also one of the pair of exhaust clamps for the front to rear joint had completely rusted through and was rattling on the pipe, the other was intact and the joint still sealed, probably with rust!

 

The general condition underneath of front & rear cross members, wishbones, drop links etc is very rusty, I think it has been a coastal car, I have already replaced all 4 brake disc backplates.

Couplin ordered, offer of €84 inc delivery accepted by the German seller, I hope this info will be of use to FrenchTone when he is feeling up to tacklin the job.

 

It may be some time before I can fit the coupling but I will report back on how it is as a DIY job without a vehicle lift and whether the transmission noise diminishes.

The G key and others need cleaning on my keyboard!

 

It may be some time before I can fit the coupling but I will report back on how it is as a DIY job without a vehicle lift and whether the transmission noise diminishes.

I still have not fitted the coupling, when I looked closely at the new one the wavy geometric line which I had thought was a crack was present on the new coupling, the old may have less resilience but it isn't cracked or parting company, my friend who owns the CT centre did the restest after I had fixed the exhaust and ARB drop links agreed with me so the old one remains.

 

There is a little transmission noise but it has not got any worse despite the huge mileage I have racked up recently towing very overloaded removal trailers.

 

I will change it when I have the car jacked up for other work, it will be interesting to see if it gets a new lease of life.

Eventually had the car serviced by a VW group independant, he fitted the new doughnut supplied by me, as per normal no guarantee on the piece.

He charged 90€ to do the work  --  a good price I thought, about 1 hours work, the car would have been on the lift for the service items though!

Was there any improvement in NVH? (noise, vibration and harshness)

Didn't seem to be any before replacement , so no, no noticeable improvement!

the steel(?)external rim was loose, but not overly loose!

That describes mine, when I saw that the new one had exactly the same engineered fissure and not a crack as I had originally thought I compared it to the original and decided that rust aside it was perhaps a little easier to move the outer ring but probably because it was mounted on a shaft & not tested on the bench & vice.

 

So the new coupling will remain a spare unless the transmission whine gets worse.