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Hi people just had this issue come up. Every time I put the car into drive the car shakes and then when you attempt to set off the engine cuts out. I've uploaded a video could someone please tell me what the issue could be. Engine management light is flashing and EPC light is on. I've also attached a pic of what looks like a hose has snapped off from the air filter could that have anything to do with the car making a racket or is it much more serious.

 

Skoda fabia vrs mk2

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Edited by fahd26

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Hose won't be relevant.

Probably a failed coilpack, but scan to see what the fault lights are indicating. 

 

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@Breezy_Pete would a faulty coil pack cause the car to cut off when attempting to set off? Sorry if I sound dumb..

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I don't know.

Scanning for fault codes really is your best strategy. 

When were the spark plugs last inspected or replaced?

 

Edited by Breezy_Pete
spurious apostrophe

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@Breezy_Pete I've just got a reader on it and it's given me these codes. 

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3 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

When were the spark plugs last inspected or replaced?

 

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Plugs are due a change as service is due soon..  However I got some spark plugs Reddy for the service and my mechanic said they seem fine bar one which he replaced.. 

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Annual service is when they get changed. Am I supposed to change them sooner?

2 hours ago, fahd26 said:

Annual service is when they get changed. Am I supposed to change them sooner?

 

Depends which plugs you use, you should be using Iridium plugs, there is a really boring and stupid thread on here somewhere where they go round in circles with various brands anecdotally. If your plugs are worn out then your coil packs are probably damaged so you should replace the whole lot, someone figured out that Audi R8 coil packs are an upgrade so maybe worth looking into.

The snapped-off hose looks to be the crankcase PCV - wouldn't that affect inlet mixture? 

3 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

The snapped-off hose looks to be the crankcase PCV - wouldn't that affect inlet mixture? 

 

It's next to the air filter assembly so it's unmetered and unpressurized and can't make a difference.

Can someone confirm (or debunk) the theory that excessive plug electrode gaps puts extra stress on the ignition coils?

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The bigger the gap, the higher the voltage required to leap it, which in turn would require more energy from coilpack. Makes intuitive sense to me.

Fix the Breather as it will run like crap without it.

 

As for the Misfires logged,

get the plugs out and check all 4 and replace if required, or the one plug that might well be oiled up and black with soot.

 

You have the EPC, the Engine Light and both that can show.  The engine can go into 2 cylinder mode or inhibit the turbo.

This can happen as well as with one or more bad plugs, or the Super charger Clutch / Water Pump needing replaced. 

 

The Spark Plugs used can make quite a difference regardless of the Mechanical Engineers that just say use the right ones, the OEM ones.

There were 2 different OEM ones and your 2010 came with ones that were later changed from the factory and the gap was different.

The ones i recommend often and am flamed for have a different reach and gap from the OEM ones. 

 

But listen to the Professionals not me.   After all VW Engineers are dead good and they never ball-ed up did they.  

 

PS.

1.4 TSI Twincharger issues, High oil use had VW Group / Skoda doing 2 Changes to the Breathers.

Ist one in Europe just the Breather Mod 2009-2012 & a software update.

2nd one tried out in Australia was Breather Mod mk2. 

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Edited by Rooted

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Hello people I've now got these errors come up. Car is struggling to start so put the reader in and it's now brought these errors up.. Advise please..

IMG_20240405_221905.jpg

Cam dephaser solenoid failure is most likely, test the solenoid for a few ohms resistance across it. If so replace it and clear the codes, then start it and see what returns.

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Morning had someone come out and look at the car last night and removed the plug from cylinder 2 which was black and covered in soot. The plug from cylinder 2 was the one the mechanic replaced last time and it's not lasted 2 months. The guy that saw the car last night suggested that it could be the cam/lifters and that a compression test would be the way forward and then to see if the valves have been damaged or cam shafts. Does that seem right?

Good morning, a compression test would be a logical starting point - then, depending on the results of that, check the valve timing, then the coil packs.

Have you had the CV valve joint fixed yet?

Edited by Warrior193
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