HI Baker21, you got the wiring diagram to the headlights? Anywhere i can rewired to make the leveling adjuster to work?

HI Baker21, you got the wiring diagram to the headlights? Anywhere i can rewired to make the leveling adjuster to work?

These should help you out mate............

Halogen:

Xenon:

So there is no way i can wire something to pin 3 to make the leveling work?

So there is no way i can wire something to pin 3 to make the leveling work?

In order to get the Automatic Headlamp Levelling to work you would need the axle sensors and wiring......

In order to get your dash wheel Headlamp Adjustment working you would need to look into it further for a solution as I am unsure of the answer......

As my suspension is so hard I don't have a problem with dazzling oncoming traffic and I have never been flashed once so it's never bothered me and I am happy with the set up as it is.......

If you do figure it out then please let me know and update the thread......

Simon,

Is the levelling different on the Superb to the Bora?

I used the levelling switch on the dash on my Bora to control the retro fitted xenons. I just used Foxy's wiring diagram found on the UK-MkIVs website. Thought with you being the lighting Guru you would have sorted this by now :-)

Simon

Simon,

Is the levelling different on the Superb to the Bora?

I used the levelling switch on the dash on my Bora to control the retro fitted xenons. I just used Foxy's wiring diagram found on the UK-MkIVs website. Thought with you being the lighting Guru you would have sorted this by now :-)

Simon

Good to hear from you mate.....

The levelling may well be the same technology but I am not convinced they are the same......

I may well be the 'lighting guru' but as I have mentioned with the set up I have on the Superb there is no need to spend extra money on something that I have never had a problem with.......the only thing I would like to have would be he Headlamp Wash.....

The levelling technology differs significantly from Halogen (Servomotors) to Xenon (Stepper motors). Data was glimpsed from a service manual - unfortunately the manual only has 1 page on Xenon headlights, and no electrical diagram is available for Xenon.

In short, what I know is that the 3 pins on the halogen unit are GND, +BATT and a regulation voltage - this is generated by adjusting the dial in the dash - a potentiometer.

I don't have data for the Xenons - if anyone can share that would be most welcome - but I think that it could be the 4 pins are used to link 3 coils of the stepper mottors.

If anybody has more info, please share.

Thank you.

The levelling technology differs significantly from Halogen (Servomotors) to Xenon (Stepper motors). Data was glimpsed from a service manual - unfortunately the manual only has 1 page on Xenon headlights, and no electrical diagram is available for Xenon.

In short, what I know is that the 3 pins on the halogen unit are GND, +BATT and a regulation voltage - this is generated by adjusting the dial in the dash - a potentiometer.

I don't have data for the Xenons - if anyone can share that would be most welcome - but I think that it could be the 4 pins are used to link 3 coils of the stepper mottors.

If anybody has more info, please share.

Thank you.

The diagrams I have posted above inform you that PIN 3 activates the Stepper Motor on the Xenon units?!?!

Bad post, please delete.

As luck would have it, I now own a stepper motor as used on the Xenon units. It is a two-phase brushless motor.

I am working on a small adapter using an AVR micro that would use the height adjustment signal for halogens to drive the stepper motor. Two such units will be required for a full setup. I am afraid this won't make the retrofit legal for road use, but closer to it as with these the height adjustment of the xenon headlights can be performed just the same as with halogens.

As luck would have it, I now own a stepper motor as used on the Xenon units. It is a two-phase brushless motor.

I am working on a small adapter using an AVR micro that would use the height adjustment signal for halogens to drive the stepper motor. Two such units will be required for a full setup. I am afraid this won't make the retrofit legal for road use, but closer to it as with these the height adjustment of the xenon headlights can be performed just the same as with halogens.

Sounds like a lot of work for something that can be adjusted on the headlamp itself and not need to be touched again once set to the correct level?

Not really - the leveling thing really comes in as handy for me. Whenever I have 1 person in the back or some luggage in the trunk, I need to reset the headlight levels.

Therefore I've developed a small (1x1.5 sq. inches) board that takes the existing signals and converts them for use with the adjuster motors in the Xenon headlights. I am planning to include each module in the headlight, therefore no change is required to the wiring loom. The prototype is ready. I need to order a lot of boards for the shop to take the order, so I'll have a number of spare PCB's lying around. If anyone's interested, please shout out!

If u include the photos on how to install them into i am keen to get from you. Please let me know how to do so.

If u include the photos on how to install them into i am keen to get from you. Please let me know how to do so.

i see you've got your shipment of the lamps already !

As luck would have it, I now own a stepper motor as used on the Xenon units. It is a two-phase brushless motor.

I am working on a small adapter using an AVR micro that would use the height adjustment signal for halogens to drive the stepper motor. Two such units will be required for a full setup. I am afraid this won't make the retrofit legal for road use, but closer to it as with these the height adjustment of the xenon headlights can be performed just the same as with halogens.

Hello , do you knwhere I can find one stepper motor for OEM Xenon Octavia 5 ( 2005 model ) . One of mines is off and I can't find anywhere . Thanks , looking forward for you answer .

Here is a re-run of a couple of my posts from quite some time back, with some updates:

If it is reflector lamp housings we are talking about here, buy Philips Extreme Power (499) H4 Xenon Bulbs +80% and stop reading this post. As a second choice, Osram Nightbreakers are also quite good, certainly best <70W halogen in H3 size.

But if you happen to have projector type low beams like my Superb does, read advice below:

For a real upgrade in light output, put in 70W HID kit. Though it is a bit more of work, cost can be kept under stlg100 if you do it yourself.

Ballasts fit under front bumper under each headlight (they're very small, you probably could squeeze them in also under headlight), 1 hole needs to be drilled in each headlight cap (if you are worried you can get caps for less than stlg10 from dealer), and all electrical cabling connects inside the headlight so no splices etc. Uprating fuses by 5A is nice but stock will do too. With the Superb's projector headlamp design the light output is very clean, cutoff razor sharp, and it is ~4800 lumens per lamp and not the 1750 lumens that you will get from your premium or 100W bulbs. Did I mention that they do not give off the "headlight failure" warning? And pass MOT just fine.

And best of all, you can still put in an ordinary bulb (or 2) on the roadside if things go wrong.

If you are led to believe by anyone that the HID headlight housings are vastly different, they are not. If you have a look underneath Mk1 Superb's halogen headlight - you will see ballast mounting points. The only differences halogen vs HID are: a hole punched to the inside where the ballast goes (you don't need this with aftermarket kit), and a different collar onto the reflector housing (D1S instead of H7) . So you need 2 type approvals because you put 2 different light elements - as I have just said the (fixed) bulb mounting collar is different and it determines where exactly the light source is sitting inside the lamp. There are 3 additional electrical differences on the outside of headlamp - uprated wiring harness, bigger fuses and a different headlamp monitoring unit (the "lights failure" thingy).

But the point is that if you put in a correctly sized H7 HID retrofit, you will end up with the same beam on the road as from factory HID. This is because H7 filament is longitudinal, same as HID arc. H3 bulbs are a different story

Most recent reputable aftermarket kits such as the ones I posted earlier cope well with lower voltages, and virtually all current factory and aftermarket HIDs do not need anywhere near as high starting currents as they used to (which is where the thicker wiring, bigger fuses, and light monitor with lower voltage drop used to matter). Stock halogen wiring is good for 15A on the Superb, this is more than enough even for 70W aftermarket kits as I have tested

And of course there is the automatic levelling, which as I descrbed in earlier thread is actually worse than manual levelling if you happen to drive fully loaded car with a towbar carrier. I have factory HIDs on the Octavia and there, after several attempts to calibrate the levelling, I still had to retro-fit the thumbwheel for manual correction of the automatic levelling.

Incidentally, did you know that Bosch's auto-levelling commonly found on VW cars is only levelling when the car is completely stationary, and will move your headlights a lot if you happened to stop on an steep hill? It's a really bad setup. So on balance, I'd prefer HID retrofits in projectors with manual levelling already provided.

4 years on, my point about HID retrofits working well in projectors still stands.

3x more light on the road in the nicest way possible

In the meantime, I have also added Hella MicroDE fogs (converted to HID) and Micro Xenon driving lamps (OK these are factory HID and pricey ones) in the bottom grille, operated with main fogs and high beams, so I can travel through Europe's forests without deer and moose and buffalo surprising me. I added these aux lights late last year after I had a deer and 3 foxes crossing empty autobahn in heavy rain in the space of 1 hour. By the way, I tried HID conversion of the main beam and it is nowhere near as good as the dipped beam, probably due to H3 bulb used, I tried it and went back to halogen Osram Nightbreakers + added Micro Xenons.

In summary, I have now up to 34k lumen generated / 22k lumen projected light ouput, from <600W of power, with none of the dipped or fog beams dazzling anyone,especially that due to a lot of European travel I have headlights set to flat beam most of time.

Though realistically I only use up to 15k lumen /400W at any point.

To compare, factory HIDs will put out 4k lumen on the road (main+dipped) for double the money my entire setup cost, and same dazzle / lack of it (depending on opinion).

I hope this helps anyone thinking about HID conversion.

Great post. Do the ballasts need to be screwed to metalwork to earth them, or tucked under the headlamp? How tricky is the fitting of these - do you need to remove the headlamps?

Best to just remove bumper cover (very simple), there is no need to attach ballast to metal, just make sure there is solid ground connection on 12V feed.

Best place to mount ballasts is under each headlight under bumper cover, but you can try to mount ballasts under the headlights - this does require removing the headlamps.