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Hi Folks, Did this mod quite some time back but never posted in the techi section and lost some links to photos.
Just got round to cleaning links back up and thought I would repost this.

A Pillar Gauge mod.

As I wanted to re use my drivers air vent and removed the SWG vent pod, i had to come up with another option. All the other options were not quite what i was after . I do like the triple center console mod but have a double din SAT NAV so that was out too.

So my preferred route was to make a Pillar gauge pod

First here is the gauge pod i bought. A bog std universal one from ebay.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/BQFWRz2kKGrHgoOKjsEjlLmWUfiBJ28LdiIsQ_12.jpg

I purchased a replacement A pillar (only £6 from Skoda) just in case i b*****ed up the original one.

I decided that I would trim back the pillar gauge pod to a more workable size to fit the pillar. This meant removing almost all the flat section. I left a bit behind to use as a bonding section and then heated up some of it and reformed it to fit the pillar better.

When I had the basic shape I cut a hole in the pillar just smaller than the gauge pod to allow wiring and hose to be connected.

Next pics are the pod tiger sealed to the pillar(left to cure overnight) and initial step in filling.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures001.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures008.jpg

After that was cured I did a second layer of filler to form a better curve

Then that was sanded down including the gauge pod to look as if it was part of the main pillar. This took most of the time.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures037.jpg

Again I re added filler were needed to finish the smoothing and final rub down

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures026.jpg

I managed to find a texture paint from a car body paint shop local that would hopefully give me the texture close to the std trim and also a plastic satin finish light grey paint from a craft shop that was the exact same color as the std trim

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures101.jpg

So I was happy with finish on pillar I started spraying the texture paint to the pillar in light coats, I actually sprayed this outside between snow as the cooler the temp the more texture it gives.

finished coats of textured paint done. Was quite impressed with texture

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures040.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures042.jpg

I gave the pillar at least a day to dry off then gave the pillar around 5 light coats of the grey plastic paint

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures054.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures061.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures067.jpg

dummy tested gauge in place

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures078.jpg

Std Pillar and modded one side by side

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures092.jpg

Wiring and hose routed from original vent gauge pod to pillar.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures107.jpg

Rear of pillar showing gauge and where connection are to be made. Connecting the wires and hose was a little difficult as i lost the gauge bracket so had to tiger seal the gauge in place and hope that i had set the gauge in the correct place when fitted(thank god i did) Also i wish i had connected the hose and wire up first before fitting in gauge as it would of made life easier , certainly if i had the original bracket to hold it in place. but connected it up in the end

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures115.jpg

Finished item fitted and connected.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures120.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures121.jpg

and illuminated

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Boost%20Gauge/MyPictures131.jpg

quite pleased with end result. :thumbup:

VRS DIY Cruise Control Fitting

Part 1

Hi Folks this my DIY guide for fitting Cruise control to a Skoda Octy VRS. As the Seat , Skoda, VW base cars for the same years are all interchangeable it does not matter which of these vehicles you get the kit’s from. What does matter is the right type of engine as diesels and none 1.8 Turbo cars will have a different loom.
Diesels , none 1.8t cars using a 80 pole ecu loom
1.8 t cars using a 121 pole ecu loom.

The kit I fitted was purchased in Separate bits

Control Stalk for Steering column
Main loom from Control stalk
121 pole ECU loom

All the bits and pics I purchased were from this site

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item53d7baac1f

Also this site kindly provides fitting instructions
(As I purchased from this site i do not feel too guilty refering to the site install guide, but still give credit to that site for the information provided)

http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/ccs.pdf

Which I actually followed quite easy, so to be honest that would help most DIY installers. The benefit of my pics and further instructions is really o focus from a Octy point of view, as the install guide uses pics of the golf which some of the panels ,trim are slightly different to remove but no major issue.

Note: update

This DIY guide is referencing 2 looms I used.
More recently VW, Skoda and Seat have released a single loom kit for the 1.8t and other variants which would make the install slightly easier as you do not need to join as many cables however the principal of fitting the kit is the same so the guide is still usable to those who have the newer single loom kit.

As you need to remove the steering/airbag disconnect the battery first.

To remove steering wheel:

Adjust the steering column to it’s lowest position by the column adjustment handle. Then pull out the column and lower it as far as it will go. Now you need to turn the wheel 90' then insert a small flat screwdriver into a hole in the back of the steering wheel and twist upwards. This will unclip the plastic lug holding one side of the airbag to wheel, then turn wheel back to center and then another 90' the opposite way and again insert screwdriver into back of wheel as before. This feels a bit awkward if you have not done before, but persevere.
This will then unclip the airbag, so get ready to hold it.
Turn steering back to center position as makes it easier to centralize later.
The airbag will still be attached by 2 wires. Carefully unclip those connectors and remove airbag
Then just undo steering wheel center bolt(torx bolt) and remove wheel.

Pic of wheel removed exposing the airbag slip ring.
Important:
Do not spin, move or turn the slip ring clockwise or anticlockwise

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Mods/VRS%20Cruise%20Control%20Fitting/VRSCruiseControlFitting006.jpg

Undo the screws and remove the column height adjustment handle

Undo and remove the upper plastic shroud from the steering column , then release the plastic clips and remove the lower shroud.

Remove the Fuse box cover and the lower facia trim panels

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Mods/VRS%20Cruise%20Control%20Fitting/VRSCruiseControlFitting027.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Mods/VRS%20Cruise%20Control%20Fitting/VRSCruiseControlFitting028.jpg

Use a small screwdriver to release the locking lugs and pull the slip ring wiring connector from it’s plug connector.
Release the 2 retaining hooks and then remove slip ring.
Follow the Guide in link above to unplug and remove the steering columns stalks(come off as a pair)

Slip ring removed

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Mods/VRS%20Cruise%20Control%20Fitting/VRSCruiseControlFitting009.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Mods/VRS%20Cruise%20Control%20Fitting/VRSCruiseControlFitting027.jpg

Now you need to get to the relay/top fuse box that is located in the slam panel.
To get to that you need to remove the wiper arms, plastic cowling and wiper asm

Before I removed the wipers I placed tape above and below the blades to make it easier to relocate arms in correct position.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Mods/VRS%20Cruise%20Control%20Fitting/VRSCruiseControlFitting003.jpg

Remove the plastic wiper covers that sit over the nuts

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Mods/VRS%20Cruise%20Control%20Fitting/VRSCruiseControlFitting002.jpg

Spray wiper bolts with WD40 to help release them if tight. Remove nuts with 13mm socket then pull wipers upwards from window which will help easier removal from spindles.

Pic of wipers removed.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Mods/VRS%20Cruise%20Control%20Fitting/VRSCruiseControlFitting049.jpg

Then remove the rubber strip that sits over plastic cowling

Remove the plastic cowling. It is in 2 sections and held in quite tight and sits in a groove at bottom of windscreen, so be careful to lever it off without snapping the plastic lugs.

Cowling removed, can also see the ECU in the center of slam panel, which you will need access to later.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Mods/VRS%20Cruise%20Control%20Fitting/VRSCruiseControlFitting046.jpg

Now is a good time to replace the pollen filter as it is now exposed and these are cheap enough. (sits on the battery side under cowling)

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Mods/VRS%20Cruise%20Control%20Fitting/VRSCruiseControlFitting043.jpg

This was the state of my old one.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Mods/VRS%20Cruise%20Control%20Fitting/VRSCruiseControlFitting013.jpg

Part 2 to follow

Hi Folks after loosing a truck load of pics on Photobucket I have being spending some time rebuilding DIY guides.

So just finished this one that is in the techi section as had a number of folks asking for it..

http://briskoda.net/...ch-microswitch/

Cheers

Mark

Hi folks managed to re build this thread and re link pics after a disastrous loss of pics in Photobucket.
Hope it is useful:

Part 1. Removing The Door Panel


I must add that these instructions are to fix the none functioning of the interior light from when the driver's door is open and when the light on the driver’s door is not working for the same reason. This involves replacing the door latch micro switch. I also can't be held responsible should folks not be successful in fixing there door mechanism.

If you do not feel confident, then the options are to either purchase a complete lock mechanism for dealers at around £100 or a scrap yard one at around £25- £30( can never be sure these will work). Or get someone else to do it.

Various threads I found for info that may help.

http://www.taligentx...rlockmechanism/
http://forums.vwvort...=1542461&page=8
http://forums.tdiclu...?t=77648&page=4
http://gruvenparts.c...%20-%20MKIV.htm
http://forums.tdiclu...?t=77648&page=8

Tools needed:

- Long nose pliers
- Small flat screwdriver
- TX10 torx bit (for removing door panel screws)
- TX20 torx (long piece or long torx allen key) for removing external door handle
- TX30 torx bit for losing the window regulator
- 12 point star driver/bit (aka triple-square or spline bit): M8(for removing the Lock asm)
- Phillips screw driver
- Duck tap (to hold window up)
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Micro switch - Burgess Part #275-016A. This is a Radio Shack item.
I purchased mine on EBay. This is the Radio Shack web site.

http://www.radioshac....tId=2049718,

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20lock%20repair/Burgess275-016A.jpg

Other alternatives
- Burgess V4NS-UL

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20lock%20repair/BurgessV4NS-UL.jpg

DK series

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20lock%20repair/DKSeries.jpg


So if you still feel up to it .

- Start by putting a cloth over the window frame and then using duck tape support the window (this is safety precaution only and not because we need to take the window out, but we will be loosening the screws that hold the regular in place. (later in the instructions).

Example to another car
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20lock%20repair/WindowTapedup.jpg

Then start removing the Interior door panel by removing.

- The grip handle that is at the back of the interior door handle.(on the electric window switch panel) with a small flat screw driver to gently ease it out.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20Panel%20Removal/VRSFontdoorpanelremoval10.jpg

- Remove the Electric window switch panel. This is push fit and needs some gentle persuasion with the flat blade screw driver at each end. Should then pop up. Then unplug the connector.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20Panel%20Removal/VRSFontdoorpanelremoval9.jpg

- unscrew the 3 screws (Phillips that are uncovered from the removal of the electric window multi switch panel.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20Panel%20Removal/VRSFontdoorpanelremoval6.jpg

- The Triangular Tweeter surround bracket (use a small flat screw driver to gently lever the side to allow it to pop out of the 2 lugs.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20lock%20repair/Tweeterpic.jpg

Note mine is a custom speaker, I left it hanging, you should be able to unplug the standard connector if you have standard speakers.
- unclip the Electric mirror switch panel using small flat screw driver again and unplug the connector and remove the switch panel. This will expose a screw holding the trim in place, remove this.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20lock%20repair/EletcricMirrorPanelremoved.jpg

- Unclip the Drivers door light using the small flat screw driver. Unplug the connector from the back of the light.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20Panel%20Removal/VRSFontdoorpanelremoval14.jpg

- Finally undo the retaining screws from the sides and bottom of the trim panel (7 screws with TX10 torx)

Pics here from around the side and bottom.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20Panel%20Removal/VRSFontdoorpanelremoval16.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20Panel%20Removal/VRSFontdoorpanelremoval15.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Maintainance/VRS%20Door%20Panel%20Removal/VRSFontdoorpanelremoval24.jpg

The panel will now come away by applying some pressure upwards and outwards. Be careful as the panel will still be connected by
The door handle cable
The door pin (silver plastic rod)
The door “locked” LED
You should be able to separate the panel enough to the get to these items.
Then whilst either getting someone to help you, or support the panel on something unclip the door lock LED and remove the door pin.
Then slowly pull away the panel and unclip the door handle cable.

Job done on removing the panel.

Hi Folks, gave my car a last clean i think for a while(well maybe not knowing me :giggle:)

Thought I would share a few pics of the old girl.

Light was going fast but not bad....

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20pics%20November/VRSExteriorPicsNov201115.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20pics%20November/VRSExteriorPicsNov20115.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20pics%20November/VRSExteriorPicsNov20114.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20pics%20November/VRSExteriorPicsNov20112.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20pics%20November/VRSExteriorPicsNov20111.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20pics%20November/VRSExteriorPicsNov2011.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20Pics/VRS%20Exterior%20pics%20November/VRSExteriorPicsNov201119.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/Skoda%20VRS%20Engine%20Bay%20July%202011/VRSEngineBay001.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/Skoda%20VRS%20Engine%20Bay%20July%202011/VRSEngineBay2015-1.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/Skoda%20VRS%20Engine%20Bay%20July%202011/VRSEngineBay015.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/Skoda%20VRS%20Engine%20Bay%20July%202011/VRSEngineBay017-1.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh239/Bowders1_2008/VRS%20Gallery%20Pics/Skoda%20VRS%20Engine%20Bay%20July%202011/VRSEngineBay014-1.jpg

Jobs in the near future......

Clutch.......G60 / VR6 combo
Possible LSD DIff...Funds allowing
Replace wheels with Black Team Dynamics Pro Race.

All the best
After a cheap set of winter wheels/tyres... give me a shut if you folks have any.