newbie69

It's been a long time since I was around and an active member of this great forum as I no longer own a Skoda, but trying to help out a friend who, under my own advice, bought a 2014 Octavia 1.4 TSI manual in 2015 and has indeed been very happy with it since. So lately, he tells me, the car is really hesitant on a cold start up. It starts, but it's feeling down on power when setting off, and if he requests a little bit more power he feels it even more, sort of a hiccup behaviour. Strangely enough, driving like this a few hundred meters down the road the car starts to behave normal again. Car has 78.000km at the moment, no upcoming big maintenance, spark plugs changed 1yr ago, just oil and filters due soon. I was thinking coils maybe? They must be still the original ones at that mileage? But would they cause this if going bad? Otherwise something in the fueling system? Is it something other owners have come across and if so what was the remedy? Cheers

The wheels were Ispiri FFP2 19x8.5 ET37 but I can't remember if I had spacers on at the time as well... probably not.

Then I really have no idea how it could the opposite situation than mine... Also JR RS confirmed the rears poking out a little more than the fronts on his car and he's based in OZ 🤷‍♂️

I'm pretty sure on my 272 Sportline the rears were sitting further out than the fronts even as stock and these photos after fitting spacers confirm it: The rears are practically flush whereas the fronts could still spare 2-4mm it seems. Is yours a 272/280 Sportline also? (not that I know for sure that the tracks should be different between the variants, just a guess) No stud & nut kit (hadn't done a conversion) but simply 10mm longer bolts with the correct seat for the alloys. You only need to make sure the longer bolts have the same seat as the alloys you plan on using them on, the Ispiris I had featured a conical seat instead of the spherical R13 the OEM alloys do.

To be precise, the 23.4mm is achieved by both the aftermarket alloys being wider & with different offset (the distance between the mating plane of the alloy to its outer edge ) pushing the width of the wheel out by 13.4mm, plus the spacers which push it further out by an amount equal to their thickness (10mm). So, if the stock tires are pushed out by 23.4mm that means an equal amount of tire could fit yes so 235 > 255 should in theory fit. I can't comment about the 9" alone because you don't specify the offset, and these go together. If you mean 9J ET37 that would mean an increase of 6.4mm both ways comparing to my setup above (equally outside and closer to the strut) so that's not going to be the same. With 9J you would need to drop to ET30 to ensure the 255 tire would not be any closer to the strut than stock (it would be even 1.3mm further away) and then it would poke out by 26.7mm which is 3.3mm more than I had in mine and I imagine it would be really at the limit. Yes it's the rears that were sitting almost flush with the extra 23.4mm (maybe 2mm in). I remember the fronts were sitting a bit further inside but for extra safety I went with the same setup all around and didn't mind it.

At the time of those photos I just had the Eibach springs on and the wheels were Ispiri FFP2 19x8.5 ET37, poking out a further 13.4mm compared to the stock ones. However the tracks are so narrow that even those wheels looked slightly hidden inside so I later added 10mm hubcentric Eibach spacers which brought it closer to a flush look (still 3-4mm from fully flush and definitely no rubbing whatsoever) which finally made it perfect for my like and discreetly more aggressive. Here's a photo of the wider alloys + 10mm spacers on, which together equalled to 23.4mm further poking out compared to stock: PS. Corrected the original poking out value from 18mm to 13.4mm. PS.2 Stock 235/40/19 tires

I believe the retention of MPI is exclusive to AUS cars, eveywhere else it's gone and not come back.

No doubt, that's the numbers you should be seeing with this turbo 👍 Should feel savage above 4K rpm and I imagine the whole experience must only feel "weirder" being inside a Superb 😄 love it!

WOW, that's some luck you're having with this car, incredible... On the upside, that's a healthy torque curve you're getting there 😄 spool up not late at all for the larger turbo and the overall power delivery seems very linear, well done! You have to borrow/get a Dragy and measure 100-200km/h times now, I bet it should be in low 8s

Just caught up with this, what a misfortune, can't believe those pics with the ruined exhaust... On the actual remap, that was definitely low for that turbo. 420-430bhp is maxed out stage 2+ , not a proper stage 3, let alone with WMI. Let's hope your new tuner can sort you, should expect 460-480bhp. But apart from dyno numbers which can be a lottery, since you've done all that investment already I'd suggest getting a PGEAR or Dragy device and measuring 100-200km/h times, this is the real world performance that counts, and gives the best idea of how the car compares against others and whether it would meet your expectations. Following... PS. Appreciate the sleeper approach but you just HAVE TO ditch those alloys!!! 😆

Ah nice, I'll go have a read then!

To expand on what was written just above: "Sport" in the Driving mode affects a few things al-together: Throttle response, steering weight, suspension (if the car has DCC), cornering lights speed, A/C operation etc. (there may be more I am forgetting) PLUS it switches the gearbox to its S mode as it assumes you'd like it that way. However, the gearbox can always be set independent from the driving modes via flicking the stick to D or S. Examples: - If you want to be in Normal Driving mode for everything but would like the earlier downshifts and later up-shifts of the gearbox's S mode, leave Driving Mode to Normal and simply flick the stick to S. - Similarly, if you want everything firmer but don't want the gearbox to hang on gears for longer choose Sport Driving mode, it will put the gearbox to S too, then flick back the stick once to switch to D. This will leave the car in Sport mode (overall) and the gearbox to its normal, economy biased operation. In addition, there is a third gearbox mode which is only accessible indirectly, via the Driving modes, and that's E (ECO). Normally, flicking the stick only cycles from D to S. But if you choose ECO Driving mode you will see the gears now have a prefix of the letter E (E1, E2). In this mode, after every application of throttle followed by a lift off, the car coasts in Neutral (you will see just "E" and no gear indicator in the dash) until throttle or brake is re-applied. Maybe this is considered an engine mode for Skoda/VW but to me it's clearly a third gearbox mode, further supported by the fact the gears now are E1, E2 etc. Again, the gearbox can be changed to S (as you did) despite the car being in ECO mode.

Oh you did? I missed that but I was not hanging out much here lately. Did you create a thread?

That's mad expensive for the (minimal) gain that will be obtained, as mentioned you could probably get a big turbo setup locally for that amount of money, not worth it by any means. Imo, it's only worth spending money on the intercooler if you do plan to go stage 3 etc, otherwise stick with stage 1. Maybe add an intake and turbo inlet pipe just to scratch that itch of a few more easy bhp (if you haven't already) and call it a day.

Any decent intercooler for this platform (Wagner, Do88, Forge etc.) would do just as well, doesn't need to be the REVO one. But then if the installation is not a DIY then it will get expensive anyway. And I can think of many other better uses for ~ 1500 EUR (or more) spent on the car...