blueriver

I have recently put a K&N Induction kit onto my 1.8T vRS and am not sure about the sound it is making.

The filter is in two parts, it has a main cone and also a small breather filter.

It has given the car slightly more grunt, but also has a really airy sound to it. When I accelerate it sounds with a sssshhhhhhh noise and when I take my foot off the pedal it sounds like I have a dump valve on the car.

Does anyone have the same problem/know if this is right?

Another quickie - has anyone got a gtech pro meter? I'm looking at buying one and wondered how good they are

Cheers

Simon

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cheezemonkhai

To me based on experience from fitting one to a totally different car...

Have you made sure all the jubalie clips are tied up and have you connected all the hoses such as the EGR intake etc. The thing does sound different, oh and the 1.8T does have a dump valve, just a small plastic one.

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Nigel26

sounds right to me... the car has a bosch recirc valve as standard so you will hear something when changing gear. Basically your hearing a lot more of the turbo spooling.

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tri_longer

Sounds perfectly normal to me. Without the restrictive box and paper filter, the "sssshhhhhhh noise" is the car sucking air in.

And the dump valve noise is the dump (divertor or re-circ) valve. Again, without all that restrictive nonsense it's just more obvious.

Enjoy.

michael balai

I've recently fitted a ABD CAI kit which uses a K&N filter and mine makes a similiar type of noise
It is also fitted with a baileys dump valve.
The noise I get is a sort of vacuum noise a sound similar to darth vader, however if on idle you rev the car then it sounds very throaty....

SkodiRS

It is the induction noise...air being sucked in but...this is not because the OEM airbox and filter are restrictive but because it is enclosed...with the open filter you can hear the noise now.

As standard the DV dumps boost back into airbox...as this is enclosed you don't really hear it...you can if you're specifically listening for it....but with the open filter boost is dumped back into the filter and because it's not enclosed you'll hear the "pstssh".

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Adrian.

tri_longer

I was close In fact considering that i still don't undersatnd why a dump valve works when reversed i would say that was very good for me!

blueriver

Cheers guys,

most helpful. Not sure about the re-circ valve. Presume it's just where the air comes out of the turbo and then circulated back again. I never noticed these kind of sounds before 'cause I only had a pipercross induction on my old 106 which did sound really throaty but not so airey.

Are there any other modifications to make the engine bay sound more racey and throaty (I'm looking at getting a re-map done, but will this help much?). It's a shame skoda didn't make their engine more like this in the first place. I want to try and stay away from the dump valve scenario though.

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SkodiRS

Recirc valve just dumps the air back into the inlet system as opposed to a BOV which vents directly to the atmosphere.

If you have an induction kit on you will here more of the DV venting.

If you didn't want to hear anything then getting a Green Filter replacement panel and smoothing out the aribox would have done the job.

I don't think the kit you have has a heat shield so you're going to get heat soak from the engine....hot air = less power.

You want cold air going in as cold air is denser and typically means more power.

Remap will factor in that you're getting more cold air in...when you're on the move.

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Adrian.

jimmyskeen

I had a k&n induction kit on my vrs but it caused loss of power and after
a month of driving with it on I had to replace the MAF sensor and it f~#**d the throttle housing at just over £400 i would recommend not to use this type of filter - best to get a CAI kit with an element that is not oiled

Lummox

Why wouldnt it?

All it is basically is a tube with a 'tap' in the middle that opens or closes to allow boost through. Take your garden hose, doesn't mattter which end you attatch to the tap and which end you attatch to the nozzle, works the same.

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cheezemonkhai

I would suggest getting some good kitchen towel and dabbing the filter element to get rid of any excess oil then refittting it. The thing should be ok to be honest and I can't see how it would break a throttle houseing (didn't these have a failing anyway).

The heat soak will cause power loss unless you got one of the newer kits. These place the air intake filter behind a plastic shroud and have a cold air intake from the outside of the bonnet. The older ones just had a scoop and tube which took cold air up to it when you were moving forward.

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jimmyskeen

I think the throttle housing probably may have been on its way out
but its typical main dealer thinking about it they see a performance part
that gets instantly blamed for any fault,
might give dabbing the oil out of the filter a go and add a heat shield to it
cheers

Powerhungry

this is the sound i wanted when i bought my CAI & DV. love it

had a k&n on the saxo. was the noisiest piece of **** bought. it lasted 1month till replaced by a CDA kit for 3yrs

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Timo

Have just fitted a K&N, sounds great, please don't put a downer on it with more horror stories.

blueriver

I think your right. I haven't had anyproblems yet, and it has been on for about a month and a half. Not sure about performance though, need rolling roading to check properly.

Trying to put some kind of heat shield in is almost impossible as the main filter points directly away from the engine. I can't see it picking up much hot air. I know that the hose that it comes with is not the best of 'air catchers', but i think that for the money it is a good buy. Getting a typhoon kit or similar is obviously going to be better as the air is direct to the filter. but then costs over twice the price.

Simon

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cheezemonkhai

K&N do kits with boxes to keep the filter away from hot air and tunnel the cold air directly into the box if thats any help.

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Cars make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By driving your car you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

Nigel26

the problem with any induction kit is the dirt retention oil you have to apply after cleaning the filter.

K&N are oiled the heaviest from the factory so removing some of the oil will reduce the risk of damaging your MAF, obviously this will reduce the effect the oil has and the filter will require cleaning more readily.
Green filters are better where this is concerned.
The Jabba Sport induction kit i have uses a JR filter much like the Green or K&N filters but the oil has been developed to reduce damage to the MAF. It also has a stainless steel casing that encloses the filter when the bonnet is closed, this stops heat soak from the engine bay. I have added cold air induction hose from the front bumper as well though.

If you want a more throaty noise then what you've got so far is fine, think about adding a TIP from forge as well, this has made a noticable difference on my vRS since fitting. Its changed the noise, theres a lot more boost noise from the turbo and the induction road seems louder than before.
The only other thing would be an aftermarket exhaust. Something like a BlueFlame system would do the trick.

A remap isnt nessasarily going to give you more noise but it will make the most of the mods and give you very good results.

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dan_ferguson

I've got a K&N induction kit on my vRS and its fine.

Easy to swap back when needed too.

texasjohn

Had a Saab 93 Turbo which has the same diverter valve as your 1.8T

After I fitted a drop in JR air filter I could hear the turbo spool up and the diverter valve venting, which was a new experience as I could not hear either previously with the stock paper air filter.



Then I got it chipped and all I could hear was tire chirp but thats another story!

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SkodiRS

You're not going to see a problem with oil from the filter straight away....if there is too much oil the MAF will ulitmately get covered in it and fail....as it happens over a period of time you really don't notice the degradation unitl it's practically too late.

Get the excess oil off and then you should be ok.

Heat shield...I think someone put the K&N filter into a modifield OEM airbox...think it was Joel...not sure. When you're on the move there will be no problem with ari temp however in traffic you will get heat soak from the engine...because there is no moving air coming in.

Better yet...get a FMIC and you'll have no probs with inlet air temps....after a hard drive today I could open up bonnet and put my hand on the inlet manifold.....no worries.

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Adrian.

blueriver

Ok, so what is an FMIC? (something to do with the intercooler?)

and whats the difference between that and an SMIC?

Do you think putting a set of silicone turbo hoses on would help much?

Or also a larger lower intercooler pipe?

My filter is really dirty already. Think I might get some new oil and clean it making sure not to put too much on! Seriously don't want to ruin the MAF!

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Nigel26

FMIC is a front mounted intercooler.
SMIC is side mounted intercooler.

the difference is that the FMIC is bolted infront of the radiator and gets lots of lovely cool air when the car is moving. the SMIC sites further back at the side of the bumper (on the octy its on the drivers side). some people have inserted a vent to the drivers side wheel arch liner to allow the air that gets to the IC to vent out behind it, this is said to increase the flow of air through the IC.

fitting the turbo hoses will only make a difference if you plan to run much higher boost than standard, the silicon hoses dont flex or collapse under high pressures. i fitted some to mine but mainly for cosmetic reasons (they are blue) and i got them for a good price. fitting a TIP (Turbo intake pipe) does make a noticable difference though, i fitted one of these a few weeks ago.

the larger intercooler pipe will aid the flow of air into / out of the IC, IIRC MonkeyBoy fitted the neuspeed one to his vRS and had problems with the pipe rubbing on something (?)...

hope that helps

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