This is a discussion on Changing rear Pads within the Octavia II forums, part of the Skoda Model Discussion Area category; Apart from the pads themselves and a wind back tool, is anything else needed to do the rear pads on ...
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| Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2006
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| Apart from the pads themselves and a wind back tool, is anything else needed to do the rear pads on an Octy II? Looking at about £20 for a set of rear pads so it will save £80 worth of labour. Do the discs usually last a couple of sets of pads or are they usually worn after one set and also where is the best point to jack the rear of the car with a trolly jack and to put the axle stands. Thanks in advance.
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| | #2 |
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| The pads are the only things in need of replacing on the standard Octavia. You can hack it from behind, lifting from the suspension arms, if you have a long jack, or just in front of the real wheels with a standard one.
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| | #3 |
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| So no springs/screws etc? Just wondering if they are held in by screw or spring clip and the size of any tools I'll need.
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| | #4 |
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| It was a while since when I changed mine, but I think there are just two regular hex bolts to undo in order to remove the calliper and the spent pads. I changed both the front and rear while I was at it, and I remember either or both of the pad sets came with new bolts and locking pins. And only basic tools were used.
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| | #5 |
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| Excellent. Will have to have a look at a few things this evening. Ta
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| | #6 |
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| Copperslip for the back of the pads and a freedom membership ![]()
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| | #7 |
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| Yes remember to copperslip them.Don,t want any squeelie pads after
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| | #8 |
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| If you use standard pads that have the sticky back on them DONT copperslip them. 15mm and 13mm spanners are required to change the rear pads and a piston wind back tool.
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| | #9 |
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| do you really need the piston wind back tool? a piece of wood acting as a lever would push the piston back in if need be.
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| | #10 |
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| It needs to be twisted as well as pushed back so yes.
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| | #11 |
| Get out the way Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bournemouth
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| Otherwise you fook it up.
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| | #12 | |
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| | #13 |
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| I didn't see anybody do anything to the new pads, and for the first 1k miles after the pad change I was embarrassed by how loud it could squeal under light braking. It even scared people off pedestrian crossings. Kinda like having a 3rd horn.
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| | #14 |
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| Just remember that the handbrake may feel poor until the pads are the same profile as the disc face ![]()
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| | #15 |
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| Hi, would this kit fit ? https://www.portlandtools.co.uk/Auto...OOLS_1734.html |
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| | #16 | |
| Ah ah ah . . no Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Macclesfield, Cheshire
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| Quote:
Mark, don't copperslip the bolts holding the calliper on though. If anything, these should really have Loctite or similar on them. They are not bolts you want to be working loose over time. ![]()
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| | #17 |
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| Thanks Guys, especially Ross for the spanner sizes What has happened to the thanks button actually? ![]() I have the winding tool and spanners and some threadlock so it doesn't sound like a hard one. The dealer has offered me an extremely good price on supply or supply & fit of pads so I'll be using the genuine pads ![]() As for the freedom membership comment, if I had £12 spare I'd not even consider fitting myself as time and effort outweigh the small labour cost. Is it worth putting a small amount of copper slip on the small parts of the pads where they locate on the slides or is this again not required on an Octy II. I always used to rely on the shims on the rear and just put a small amount of slip on the slides after cleaning it all up on other cars.
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| | #18 |
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| Dont take it personally Cheeze, I was just messin ![]()
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| | #19 |
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| Can anyone point me in the right direction of where to buy a winding tool for the octy ii, many thanks. |
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| | #20 |
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| Halfords or GSF or most motor factors will sell them. I once saw that the VAG tool was cheaper but no idea if this is true. The usual brand is Laser and it's about £10-15
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