TeflonTom

easy peasy!


anywho... i've had the bores honed and the deck surface ground on the block plus chemical cleaning.... now i have to repaint it because the acid burnt all the paint off...

and no, this thread is not worthless without pics.. i just dont wanna get it out the boot of the car yet because it raining very hard outside

WoodieGuthrie

try doing this in Scotland!

when its no raining, it will be in 10 mins.

get it out the boot!

TeflonTom

well.... i braved out the rain, so she now has her first coat of paint on

TeflonTom

this picture shows the fine cross hatch pattern from honing.. this is needed to help the piston rings bed in more quickly. also see that i've had the deck surface ground to make sure it's absolutely flat

texasjohn

Every credit to you for having the skills to take on such a large and complicated project. I struggle with ARBs and PD160 mods let alone something of this complexity.

I'd doff my hat but I dont wear one

__________________
Xbox 360 gamertag: TexasJohn74.

WoodieGuthrie

Pretty for a 4pot

what paint you using? I find Halfrauds matt black high temp paint is ace

TeflonTom

when i talked about using 4 pot brakes everybody assumed i meant calipers plan is to just stick one of these on a piece of chain and lob it out the window and use it as an anchor


hammerite high temp stuff

WoodieGuthrie

seen the 4pot brakes thing done

Hammerite do some excellent paints- their mettallic black hammered finish is identical to BMW's Diamond Schwartz- and about 1/16th the price!

takes forever to cure though

TeflonTom

the goodies are arriving at a steady rate now.. this little baby makes it possible to fit a radiator for cooling the oil... it goes between the filter and the block

pinkskud

nice lil gadget.

TeflonTom

haha... my postman must think i've lost the plot again!

had these little beauties waiting for me when i got back this afternoon


high tension valve springs from Schrick motorsport in germany (cant get these for love nor money in the uk )

TeflonTom

valves and springs are all in!! head is now completely ready except for quickly popping in the new hydraulic lifters and camshaft(which i havn't bought yet )

TeflonTom

i've turned my attention to the crankshaft now... it's not looking good at the moment. having the journals re-polished today to find out if they will clean up or not, she's showing the first signs of oil starvation by the looks of it.

more info on this later hopefully

TeflonTom

haha! a strange stroke of luck revealed that i had a brand new oil filter sat on the shelf in my shed that fits this engine.... i wonder how long that's been sat there?

TeflonTom

here's what the oil cooler take off plate looks like fitted to the block



the plate slides over the existing filter mounting screw, then an extension bit screws onto that which secures the plate in place... the side which faces the block has a rubber seal, put a smear of clean engine oil on there before fitting... then the filter just screws onto the plate like normal

pinkskud

were's the oil cooler going???

Tom_vRS

Just read this thread from start to finish! Excellent thread Tom.

Quite enjoying the techie bits too!

Keep the updates coming!

What power do you hope to make when its done? 100bhp and a lovely bit of low down torque? More? What characteristics you aiming for?

__________________
97/R BMW 328i in Boston Green.

WoodieGuthrie

I would imagine it would be pisitioned near the front valance with a cut out if required to aid cooling.

Looks an excellent idea Tom- particularly impressed with the screw on adapter

TeflonTom

probably remove the fog lights completely and have a mesh thing and have it mounted up under there somewhere... not 100% sure yet

i'm going to try and keep as much low down grunt as possible, but it's a swings and roundabouts thing, you cant get lots of low down grunt and high rpm muscle at the same time... hoping to get maybe 140-bhp at the flywheel.. going to do something a bit special with the gearbox/ratios too

it's a standard mocal one. uses the same plate as the the mk2 golf/corrado.. only cost £19.99 too... the only thing that bugs my about mocal stuff is using bsp fittings rather than metric


aside from all that, i've not even really began thinking about chassis/suspension yet. but there will be a few 'tricks' in there... 4 pot big brake conversion, rear disc conversion, custom poly bushes, rear arb are all on the cards... will look into this in detail when i've finished fiddling with the motor

Goochie

TOm - may be worth you looking at the Leon Cupra R oil cooler - sits nicely behind the "S" badge at the front.

TeflonTom

ahh excellent. didn't know they had an oil cooler... i will see how much they cost from the stealers. bering in mind the mocal ones are only about £80...

the other alternative i've looked at is the cooler from an mgb /mini cooper because they also have 1/2 bsp fittings... but they cost a fortune to buy new now

Goochie

The BSP fittings shouldnt' be a problem - just ring somewhere like Pirtek (Hydraulic hose/fitting provider) and get some adaptors.

TeflonTom

i think i'm going to have to use the bsp fittings at the engine end of the hoses because there isn't much space around the exhaust manifold to fit adaptors... but i suppose there's no harm in using metric hose fittings on the other ends of the hoses to fit to the radiator

TeflonTom

right, here's the crankshaft after being chemically degreased, and the journals re-polished



the polishing process smooths out any surface irregularities on the bearing surfaces.. using a very very fine grade of wet and dry (probably aroung 800 grit) and plenty of clean engine oil. and a special tool for clamping it around the journal. the crank is rotated in the same direction of normal rotation... this obviuosly polishes away any ingrained crud and leave a nice smooth finish ready for the new bearings. i was a little worried that these might not clean up very well nicely because it was starting to show burnishing marks when the horrible crusty oil was litteraly being baked onto the surface... moral of the story is change your oil frequently!!

TeflonTom

now i feel i should say a few words about crankshafts

as you can see from the above photo. this is what is known as a fully counterbalanced crank.. this means that the is a counterweight at each crankpin which counteracts the weight of the other side of the crank.. being fully counterbalanced has the advantage of reducing the bearing loads because it appies even forces (moments) at the main bearing, plus it makes for smoother running/idling. but it has the disadvantage of being heavier with more rotating mass and hence takes longer and more force to spin it up to speed.



although it's quite difficult to see from this picture above.. there is a very narrow parting line arrowed.. having a norrow parting line indicates to me that this is a nodular cast iron crank. without wanting to real off pages on metalurgy, nodular iron is a good material for making crankshafts because it is highly ductile which means it will flex rather than crack under extremes of loading. also it aborbs shock loads and dampens it which leads again to smoother running and doesn't transmit shock throughout the engine. also the graphite content acts as a kind of barrier which reduces corrosion..


the easy way to tell that it is a forged crank rather than a cast one.. is a forged crank will habe a wide parting line where the flash from the forging dies has seeped out and has then been sawn/sanded off