TeflonTom

1) is the rear mounting flange, the left face of this is where the flywheel bolts onto. the outer edge is where the rear crankshaft oil seal goes. every effort shoulf be made to keep this nice and clean

2) is called a web. dont know why

3) crankpin / big end. also the collective name for these is journals

4) main / also called journals

5) fillet.. on this particular crank they are rolled and radiused fillets. this has the advantage of making the corners stronger . a square corner could lead to a possible stress point becuse of the hard edge

6) if you draw an imaginany line though the centre of the two crankpins this is the stroke measurement of the crank.


the blue dotted line show where the internal oil ways are drill diagonally though each main/big end. these are there to feed oil under pressure from the main bearing (which gets it's oil from the holes in the block via an oil gallery) to the big ends.. then it goes up through the centre of the conrod to feed oil to the gudgeon pin. you cant see the hole on the the one i've drawn because it's on the other side but you get the general idea!

TeflonTom

you may be asking?? ok but what stops the crankshaft from wanting to move sideways.. also known as float!



the centre main journal also has flat machined into the sides. and the centre main bearer cap in the block also has been formed to accept a bearing known as a thrust washer. there is a thrust washer both sides of the journal, and they are split into upper and lower pieces. so there are 4 'half moons' in total. 2 of which has locking tabs on them to prevent them from spinning with the crank.



here they are.. note the shallow slots formed into them also... this allows an amount of oil to pass though which obviously lubricates them.. these grooves must face the crank... i've seen engines/cranks ruined in the past by sombody fitting these around the wrong way when re-building an engine

TeflonTom

the conversion set is now here! come to think of it, there cant be many more bits i need



contains front and rear crankshaft oil seals, water pump gasket/o rings, oil pump gasket, water pump o rings, oil pick up pipe gasket.. plus a few others which i've got aren't for this engine which are just included in the set(same set for about 5 different engines)

TeflonTom

naff picture...



this is the oil seperator/breather box that sits on the back of the engine block. it's there to seperature the out the oil vapour inside the crankcase there is a hose connected which joins up to the airbox to create a vacuum. the vapour is then recirculated back and reburned. many idling problems and oil burning problems can be attributed to this little thing being blocked up with sludge

Goochie

This is all very well, but how much power are you expecting?

Thats what we all want to know

TeflonTom

somewhere around 130-140bhp

WoodieGuthrie

I'm lead to believe that the 136 MPI lumps will happily do 130bhp?

and they are chaindriven rightness..




Only kidding- a 140bhp 1.6 would be a fooking rocket esp if the car was stripped out.

Only issue I could see is the rear of the car. stock felly with nowt in the boot is too tail happy, so stripped out may be even worse?

TeflonTom

i allways found the felicia to be prone to understeer personally

WoodieGuthrie

try some lift off oversteer

and, yeah they do run wide esp in the wet-think its to do with the flannel suspension fitted as standard

pinkskud

just about got my car balanced now. in the dry it just sort of, 4 wheels drifts. no under steer and no over steer. just nice predictable sliding.

but, if you put some people in the back, it does the old waggy tailed dog trick. and the back end tryes to tear its self off.

richardsfavorit

I know a mechanic who cut out the bottom of a Felicia - made it a lot lights - eg removing the area where the spare is etc. You could look through under the car from the wheel arches. He thought it was about 200 / 300kg lighter!

TeflonTom

erm...... yes......

so where do you put the fuel tank.. and erm... the rear suspension beam

richardsfavorit

Yes I am not sure where he shifted that to - I only saw the rear wheel area removed - so maybe the tank we in the same place. :s

TeflonTom

awaiting the iminent arrival of the throttle bodies and linkage in the next couple of days.. (at long last)

sending off the crank to be lightened in the next few days, going to get the conrods polished and shot peened too, more info and pics on this soon!

WoodieGuthrie

TeflonTom

this arrived this morning



going to use this on the idle speed control valve inlet, so all the sir that enters the engine at idle will come through this

pinkskud

ha, thats a cool lil touch.

TeflonTom

oh dear

there's been a bit of a change of plan folks... it appears that the emerald m3dk ecu that i had sat on the shelf in my mate's garage has been sold on ebay because he thought i wasn't going to use it....

so i'm not going to be getting the crankshaaft lightened after all because i need to shell out another £680 for a new emerald ecu... all is not lost tho, there is a new k3 version out which has added functionality such as switchable maps. hey-ho.... never mind

WoodieGuthrie

Pity he's your bother-would have been a clean kill otherwise....

thats a shame

TeflonTom

piston rings are here!



all i need now is a new rear crankshaft oil seal hosuing/seal and some new big end bolts then i can quickly chuck it all together

pinkskud

if any of my family did that they would be in the next ebay lot

bye it now - £0 (you can have them!!!)

TeflonTom

hi folks,

had a quick look underneath the engine this evening



from the picture you can clearly see the numbers of the caps, also if you look carefully you car see the holes through which the oil feeds up to lubricate the main bearings...

that dried on brown gunky stuff is just wd40 and that will just rub off

TeflonTom

first step was to remove the main bearing caps and throuroughly clean them.
then clean the main bearers in the block and dry them.



next insert the new main bearings ensureing that the oil feed hole lines up properly with the hole in the shell bearing, and making sure it locates it's locking tab...

TeflonTom

next liberally oil the bearings with clean engine oil.

then carefully lower the crankshaft into position



you may notice that i have also fitted the rear crankshaft oil seal and housing plus it's gasket at the same time.. this is because access to the back of the engine is lmited you cannot fit this with the crank in place whilst it's bolted to an engine stand!!! dont do up the bolts yet because you need to put the number 5 main cap on first!!!

TeflonTom

now is the time to carefully place in the upper thrust washers before you put on the centre cap, you should be able to place them on then rotate them round in thier correct position

next, after cleaning the main bearing caps, put the new bearing into them and place them on in the correct positions,


this picture shows the centre (number 3) bearer cap


it shows the groove in which the lower thrust washer sits, also notice there is a slot for the locating tab too


tighten all the caps down hand tight to start with and then check that the crank still turns, tighten all the bolts to 60nm first, then a further 90 degrees.. again check that the crank still turns after you done the final tightening stage

now you can put in the bolts that hold the rear crankshaft oil seal in and tighted them..